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Everything posted by marlot

  1. Assuming the switches are in the door like my LC, the most likely cause is a fracture in the wires from the car to the door. If you know what you're doing with wiring then its pretty easy to check. If not, and autoelectrician would be your best bet.
  2. http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=131476 Enjoy!
  3. There is a known problem with the Amazon - I think its a thrust bearing in the torque convertor. I run a different LC so I'm not completely familiar with the issue, but a quick google turned up a specialist in Bristol who has fixed this issue for other Amazon owners: JP (Automatic Transmissions) Ltd 4a & 4b Pear Tree Industrial Estate Upper Langford Bristol BS40 5DJ ENGLAND Tel +44 (0) 1934 852772 Fax +44 (0) 1934 852211 www.jpat.co.uk bdp@jpat.co.uk
  4. I spent quite some time writing up help for your hubs issue and not a word of thanks. Doesn't make me inclined to help this time...
  5. I wonder if it is something to do with the power heat (mode where the car is set to warm up more quickly). I have a power heat button on my 120-series. It raises the revs, seems to alter the fueling and gets the car up to temp quickly
  6. The red button is for getting the car out of Park and into Neutral if the engine isn't running (ie. to be able to winch it onto a breakdown truck).
  7. We've been warning owners to change to the aluminium seals (and check the oil strainer is clear) for at least two years over at the land cruiser owners club (www.tlocuk.co.uk). Toyota effectively extended the warranty on these engines to 5 years/100,000 miles. So paid for new engines if they failed. Yours is more than a bit older than that! So you're into the realms of extended goodwill. Do you have any bargaining chips - Does your car have a full toyota service history? what's the mileage? If it had been almost any other car maker, the warranty would not have been extended the way Toyota have done. I know lots of VW owners who had to pay for their new injectors at much lower mileages than yours. Your other alternative is to go to a decent diesel specialist rather than toyota. The injectors are made by Denso if that helps.
  8. £40 each here: http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=11&cid=1084
  9. I've only had cars with manual hubs or permanent 4 wheel drive. I'm pretty certain the hub isn't locking/unlocking. But you might be lucky - it might be stuck in locked mode. Start by locking the hubs. Leave the tranmission in neutral, and the centre diff lock unlocked. Jack up the wheel you suspect has the faulty hub. Make sure the other three are on the ground If you can turn the wheel then its not locked. If it only goes a short distance then goes tight, its locked. If the one hub is permanently locked then I'd tend to run with the other one locked as well to minimise wear on the front diff. It won't make any difference in normal use except the car may use a bit more fuel. If the hub is parmanently unlocked however, you have a bigger problem. An unlocked hub will be useless when you're stuck in the mud. Even with one hub not locked, you lose traction to BOTH front wheels (although one hub will be locked, the power will only go to the wheel which is unlocked). I had this problem in the Masai Maraa once, and got very stuck in the mud, with a Cheetah eating its prey 100 metres away! If it costs a fortune to get the electric hub fixed, a cheaper option may be to fit manual hubs - means you have to get out and turn a knob in the centre of the hub. Hope this helps!
  10. Both causes related. The copper seals at the base of the injectors let exhaust gasses into the oil. The oil then sludges up, blocking the strainer in the sump. The engine then fails as a result of low oil pressure. To anyone reading this: If you haven't had your engine's injector seals changed to the later aluminium ones you need to get it done. There is a customer campaign out at the moment, where Toyota are footing the bill. If your engine isn't covered by the campaign (most are), I'd recommend paying the £200 or so to have them done. If there is any sign of blow-by when the copper seals are taken out, get your oil strainer checked/cleaned also. Post mid-2008 manufacture have the aluminium seals from new.
  11. It has to be the rear wheels - there's no height adjustment on the front wheels!
  12. Probably the height sensors at the rear wheels. You might get away with stripping and cleaning them, but probably need replacing. Sorry - don't knwo any specialists in that area.
  13. Since I wrote that, Toyota UK have been operating a customer service campaign to change the injector seals. Quite right too! The LC can go back to being the most reliable big 4x4 out there!
  14. The problem is mainly the seals at the base of the injectors. On LCs up to about 2008 these were made of copper, and eventually let exhaust gases go past. These exhaust gases end up in the oil, which goes sludgy, blocking the oil strainer and/or turbo. This can wreck the engine. Toyota have been replacing engines of affected cars up to about 5 years old. There is now a service campaign out to change the copper washers to the later aluminium versions. I don't know whether they will cover a 2004. If your car isn't covered I'd recommend paying to have it done. It doesn't have to be at a Toyota dealer - a good diesel specialist would be able to do it. Regard it as preventative maintenance the way you would a timing belt. Your LC4 should then be good for a further 100,000 miles.
  15. It could be local interference - try it about a mile away. It could be a blown fuse. Or it could be something worse - but try these two first!
  16. Might be some dirt on the laser - I'd use a dvd cleaner eg. http://direct.asda.com/SLX-CD-and-DVD-Cleaner/000587802,default,pd.html If that doesn't work the laser may be slightly misaligned, and need to go off for repair Or buy a secondhand unit - perhaps the one from this car? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BREAKING-TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-LC4-LC5-COMPLETE-AIRBAG-KIT-/250899455986?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6ac5dff2
  17. In that case, with the right surround you can fit any 2DIN unit. Perhaps something like this: ttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Landcruiser-Fascia-Panel-Stalk-Car-Stereo-Kit-/200653594121?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb7e2de09 My xcarlink is mounted just below the stereo/above the gearstick under the ashtray and I just plug my USB stick into it - unless you were looking for it, you'd hardly notice it was there.
  18. Are you saying its turning over slowly? If so, I'd start by checking the specific gravity in the batteries (to check that they really are charged), and if that's OK then check all the main connections - battery to earth, engine to earth, battery to starter. If those check out, then it could be the starter motor. But before taking it out I'd check the voltage at the starter when its cranking. If its turning over OK, but just not starting it could be the fuel draining back to the tank - so needing to be pumped up again.
  19. Toyota UK are now replacing the injector seals, so this shouldn't be happening to anybody else. Campaign number 1613G if you're ringing your dealer to find out if yours in included. The landcruiser can go back to being the most reliable 4x4 out there!
  20. OOh - I didn't know it was possible. I'd love to know how to enable it!
  21. Its a known problem, due to faulty injector seals. If we're to restore the LC's reputation, we need to get Toyota to do a proper recall on the injector seals. Please, if you've suffered engine failure, which you considered to be dangerous (or potentially dangerous) - perhaps because it might have left you with no power in the fast lane - please report it to VOSA. The form and instructions are here: http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/onlineservices/vehicledefects.htm
  22. It's could be a power problem, and the intermittent nature means that it sounds like a bad earth connection. I'd start by running a second earth from the case of the radio unit to the negative of the battery and see if that resolves it.
  23. Only the first generation of invincibles were based on the lc4 and had 200 bhp, later ones were based on the lc5 (and had the EU4 173 bhp engine). But good car if you and find one. Be careful, though. I also found there was at least one fake out there - a normal lc4 which had been chipped and had tinted windows, and being sold by a Toyota dealer.
  24. I'm a huge fan of the 'baby' landcruisers; and coming from a family who always ran landrovers that's a huge compliment. I'd slightly recommend an LC4 over an LC5. Although failures are rare, the height adjustable suspension on the LC5 can go wrong (the sensors gradually fail). Most LC4s came with a turn-by-turn satnav but if you're lucky you might be able to find one with a full screen TNS600. or you could fit an aftermaket 2DIN into the space. Some LCs had the spare tyre on the back door, some had it underneath; underneath is more convenient in my opinion. The only other (rare) fault on the landcruisers is the seals at the base of the injectors failing. The original (copper) seals can fail, letting exhaust gases into the oil, sludging it up - in extreme cases leading to engine failure. If buying a used LC of that vintage, I'd get a garage to swap them to the later (aluminium) design. You should then be good for miles to come. Cost isn't huge - ragard it as sensible insurance like you would a cambelt swap. This really should have been a recall but instead Toyota have been supplying replacement engines for the few people affected as long as they have a full dealer history. Finally check for a thump from behind as you pull to a stop. Use it as a bargaining point - it usually just means the propshaft needs greasing. If this sounds like doom and gloom, its not meant to be - these cars are super reliable. Especially when compared with the rest of the family's LRs. To compensate, tyres last forever on LCs - 50,000 miles is common. If you want to stay on the tarmac the original tyres are fine, but if you want to be able to tow off muddy campsites etc then General Grabber AT2 or (the new) AT tyres are the way to go. Whichever you run, you need to up the tyre pressures from the toyota recommendations (or they wear the tyre shoulders). For the original tyres to about 33-34 psi, for the Generals to 36-38psi. The toyota towbars are made by brink if you want to bypass the dealers and go to a towbar fitter. Or the fitting instructions (for towbars and lots more - eg satnav) are online at http://www.toyota-tech.eu/ (under 'owner'/installation manuals). PS. The general grabber AT2s are also snowflake marked, and as such are brilliant in snow - though they are an all year round general purpose tyre.
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