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Scarlett Arrow

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Scarlett Arrow last won the day on March 8 2015

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  • First Name
    Kev
  • Toyota Model
    Celica
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Nottinghamshire

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  1. 1) A post face-lift 140, September 2002 onwards is the "sweet spot", the pre face-lift 140 is the engine with the possible oil burning issue. The T Sport is not really worth the extra cost in terms of purchase price/RFL/insurance. The extra power only comes at the top of the rev range (over 6200), and many of these cars have been thrashed and crashed. The 140 of course doesn't have what you call, "lift bolts". The correct term is flange bolts. 2) Condition is everything. Find one that's been treasured and you'll fall in love..but that's a very tough task. 3) Potentially, a big sinkhole. You could easily find yourself having to replace the rear subframe/brake lines/brake calipers/radiator and coolant. For example, the centre pipe for the exhaust is around £1500 from Toyota alone. The annual MOT test has killed many Gen 7's due to corrosion. They WERE fantastic cars, I had mine from new for 17 years. It pains me to say it, but they've had their day, and I would be looking for something that's more resistant to rust than a Gen 7. Can you afford something like a 2013 Fiesta ST?. A future classic in the making IMO. If I haven't put you off, the "Premium Blue" limited edition 140 in Lagoon Blue, is the wise mans choice. It has a higher spec. than a T Sport BTW. Hope that helps 🙂
  2. For a 2004 Gen 7, the front calipers are identical irrespective of 140, or 190. Only the pre face-lift differs. All Gen 7's have the same rear calipers.
  3. TCB in Callington are also a good source of parts for the later Generations.
  4. Which warning light?. A VVTi that has has covered 190k has done very, very well. Many have died having suffered the "death rattle" due to the inherent oil burning issue.
  5. Any reason why you have not acknowledged my reply, Paul?.
  6. Eibach Pro Kit springs are good quality, and will lower the car by around 30mm. I had them on my 2004 VVTi for many years. I must admit to not hearing of K Flex. HTH 🙂
  7. One person who would definitely be able to point you in the right direction is Sheila. She's local to you, and goes by the user-name "CheltGirl", on celica-club.co.uk, where she is a Forum Moderator. Good luck, Nicholas 🙂
  8. Bob has given you the correct KYB part numbers. I've read where you've mentioned "money is tight", but I suggest you "bite the bullet" re suspension parts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263940492054?fits=Model%3ACelica&hash=item3d74144b16:g:V1AAAOSwcTlbnkA0
  9. You want a pair of KYB Excel shocks, dust boots, and a pair of drop links. I would also be replacing the springs with Eibach Pro Kit, and you should consider new top mounts if the mileage is north of 100k too. Once fitted, wait a couple of weeks for the suspension to "settle", before having a full wheel alignment carried out. Expensive, but worth it if you're keeping the TS, and cheaper than replacing the parts separately.
  10. Unlike the VVTi, the VVTi-L in the TS does not have a baffled sump. Strongly recommend you replace the 5W30 with 5W40 while on track to avoid a big repair bill. The cheapest way to better performance is to shed weight. If money is no object, a set of 16" light-weight rims, such as Pro Race 1.2 would make a huge difference, as the torque on these cars is puny. Also, ensure the calipers are working perfectly. The rears especially need regular maintenance (strip/clean/lubricate).
  11. Greenlight Insurance in Billericay. https://www.greenlightinsurance.co.uk/contact-us
  12. As long as you already have a working remote key..yes. Cost will be ITRO £200.
  13. Welcome to T.O.C., Nev. The rears are a straight swap, just leaving a small gap either side. The fronts though, do involve some welding. If you ask the same question on celica-club.co.uk, there's a good chance you will get a reply from a Gen 6 owner that's carried out this modification.
  14. Yes, and they represent good VFM. Getting the old ones off can be a real PITA as Toyota used thread-lock at the factory, so some heat may well be required. I watched when mine were replaced, and it took three people. One with a spanner, one applying the heat, and another using a small heat shield to protect the paintwork.
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