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About Velocette

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  • Toyota Model
    Rav4 Icon (63) Yaris TR (59)
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    General Automotive
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  1. I have a 63 reg 2.2D auto and do around 17k miles a year. On a good motorway run, 100 miles each way, not hanging around I got 38mpg last week. With more local journeys, pottering over to our daughter 10 miles away combined with longer trips I get around 36mpg. The best I have had is 44mpg on a long but slow motorway journey up the speed limited (50) M3 and then around the slow M25. In the depths of winter when consumption is higher I have never got less than 35. A long (3k miles), fast (80+) continental holiday four up and loaded to the gunnels gave around 37 mpg. I zero the trip meter when I fill up and usually check mpg, all the figures here are brim to brim. This compares favourably with my brother's D5 XC60, but he is not a sympathetic driver it has to be said. In my view fuel consumption is not a reason to avoid buying one of these as it might be, say, with a petrol Subaru. Overall I have been vey happy with mine, cheap to run and service although road tax is highish. I did find tyre noise from the Bridgestone OEMs was rather tedious, but these were replaced with Nexens at 34k and have shown a marked improvement.
  2. I have a 2.2 D with the auto box. As mentioned in a previous thread I get around 38-39 mpg in mixed town and fast road driving. I am not a flat to the floor style driver. Worst I have had is 36 but rarely top the 40 mpg mark, with 22k on the clock now. Thanks to foot injury I need an auto but having said that the 150 bhp of the 2.2 seems pretty modest and I would prefer this to the 2.0. Engine fallibility issues were resolved a while back and I would be surprised to see any recurrence. Pundits say the Mazda CX-5 is the best of its type, but then again they don't have to buy, run and maintain them. Owner feedback as recorded on various forums concerning reliability and quality of dealers was enough to put me off and decide me to buy Toyota again. Frankly, you might do better but then again you won't go wrong either the 2.0 or 2.2 in my view.
  3. I have a 63 reg 2.2D auto icon with leather, heated seats and some other extras. I did post a review on here but it doesn't actually seem to have made it to public view for some reason. I will see if I can find the original text and resend it when I am next in front of my desktop. My vehicle has now done 22k miles with absolutely no problems at all. Tyre wear looks to be very acceptable and I get about 38-39 mpg on a mix of road town and steady fast road driving. I have never had less than 36 but only rarely crack 40. The car does all I want it to do, but if there is one thing is would like sorted it is the level of road noise especially on rough road surfaces at speed. When on the continent it is much less of an issue but I do notice it here, especially on concrete and roughly tarmaced surfaces. Not a deal breaker but something I would check in more detail next time round. As I find with Toyota it is it not exceptional on any one point but makes a very good all round car. I have become more attracted to it as time goes by and it certainly swallows people and luggage. My other choice was an XC60 but in value for money terms the RAV4 cannot be beaten. Whether you should swap a 2012 model for it I wouldn't know, but it sounds expensive! I chose not to buy the previous model due to the spare tyre issue.
  4. Ah! I see, I had not appreciated it was an android device. Good luck with the installation.
  5. I am just wondering how good the sat nav capability is of this particular radio fitment, do you have any feedback or assurance on that? I see they include a 4gb map card, but who's maps and where of? The factory fit sat nav in my old 07 Prius was not great, but better in my current RAV4. A Tomtom seems so much simpler, easier and cheaper and could easily be hard wired in to give a more permanent feel as it were.
  6. Ah OK, thanks for explaining. I forgot to say the handbook will give you a good idea of which fuses are alive or otherwise and you can test easily with a bulb or meter. Good luck!
  7. Not sure what you mean by dashmount? Is this a holder for a device to be powered by the USB such as a dashcam or GPS? Assuming yes to both questions then the next decision is whether it not you want the power outputs to permanently live or to be switched off with the ignition. I installed a dashcam in my 63 reg Rav. A very simple job. First, find the fuse box which in my car is in the passenger footwell on the bulkhead. Identify a suitable fuse from which to tap the power supply. I made sure I took the feed from a non-safety critical fuse just in case of a problem. My power feed switches off with the ignition. The power is derived from a piggy back fuse holder, easily found on eBay. Make sure you get the right size as there are two, regular and mini. There is also micro but they don't make piggy back holders for them as far as I know. Essentially the holder supports the fuse already in place with a second slot for the power supply to your accessory. Obtain a fuse of the correct amperage for the accessory slot. The red wire from the holder is your power feed and is attached to the USB feed in lead with a chocolate block connector. The black wire from your USB device should go to earth by attaching it to a suitable metal part of the cars structure, typically under a suitable nut. The fuse box cover now does not fit so I fashioned one with a suitable cut out slot for the piggy back holder from the lid of an ice cream tub, held in place with elastic bands. If this aligns with what you want to do then the red and black wires on the device you have bought look as if they might be too short to me. You can either extend them using chocolate block connectors and lengths of suitable wire, something of a bodge but it would be ok. In my case I bought a hard wire kit for a mini 801, my model of dashcam, if you look on eBay you will see the wires are much longer and in my case could be routed through the trim to the rear view mirror area where the dashcam is mounted without problem. Hope this helps, Velocette
  8. Well, we are certainly right to be cautious about overt or indeed covert messages from those promoting their products.but we have moved on from the issues discussed by Vance Packard in his 1957 book The Hidden Persuaders and Naomi Klein's No Logo (1999). We are now in a much more sophisticated and cynical world of consumers and the Internet has given huge empowerment to individuals. The post about trade-in prices certainly rang a bell with me. I bought a Prius from my then local dealer (before we moved) and after three years or so had run it up to nearly 100k miles. After about 2.5 years I enquired about a trade in with my Toyota dealer (who had supplied and serviced the vehicle from new) for another vehicle. Six months later I bought a car elsewhere and was offered then, with more miles and six months older, about 15% more for my Prius, equating to quite a few hundred £s more. Did the Toyota dealer really think that I had not thoroughly checked prices on Autotrader, ebay etc and occasionally with other dealers? I was more than happy to allow the Toyota dealer a sensible margin in return for a hassle free purchase, a quality vehicle and a sound warranty and backup. I just didn't have time to waste and was prepared to trust him. Sadly that trust was not reciprocated as not only did he offer a poor trade in for a vehicle he knew better than anybody else, but he tried to spin me a story about what the car was or was not worth. Classic sales bluster and dismissed as such. If only the company had taken a whole customer perspective they would have sold me a car and retained the servicing income from both myself and my wife, as she too drives a Toyota. Instead they were driven by the thought of the deal on the day, thinking they could drive a few hundred more out of me. There was so much they could have done to get and retain my business - yes, maybe give me not such a good trade in price (but not the price they offered!) but then compensated with a servicing deal. I would happily have had my car serviced at a slack time for their service bay, then they and I would have won and we would have committed longer term to each other. Eventually instead of buying another Toyota I eventually bought a Volvo, and would happily buy another based on that experience and the XC60 lost on this occasion to the RAV4.
  9. What an extraordinary thread. Firstly, to say that someone who specifically states that they wish their sponsor to remain anonymous is accused of advertising. I am also surprised at the negative and somewhat hostile attitude of people posting here who presumably are positive about this particular marque and model. Look at the positives - this is your chance to tell this organisation what it is you want, and what they should provide. Does the OP have a particular perspective, yes of course he does - like we all have - and he has stated this position openly and why he is here. what is wrong with that? In that spirit let me make my position clear. I am a retired academic who has taught and researched marketing and business strategy, albeit in fields removed from consumer marketing, in business schools around the world for twenty years or more. i am a chartered marketer and fellow of the institute of marketing. I have actually purchased a new model rav4. What motivated me was that as a 9 month old demonstrator it offered at a very attractive price but with the addition of some extras which were added value for me. Specifically white metallic paint, leather, heated seats, a tow bar, sat nav and bluetooth together with some other things that were nice to have but not deal breakers. These included roof rails with cross bars, side steps and "drug dealer" anthracite wheels. I also wanted 4 wheel drive capability as an elderly relative lives in a difficult to get to place and if things go wrong we have to be there whatever. I had also seriously considered an XC60 but spec for spec this would have cost me up to £10k more. More generally I also got over 4 years warranty and a very good dealer (not Listers as it happens) is less than 5 miles away. So I have a well equipped, comfortable, reliable car that I am confident will fulfil my needs with minimal problems for at least the warranty period and all at a competitive price. I am happy to respond to any questions that the OP may have, in the hope that my feedback may positively influence his sponsor potentially to my benefit sometime in the future. Velocette.
  10. Well I am sure we can all agree that failure to supply basic equipment in a vehicle costing in the mid to late £20s is nothing less than outrageous and a short term way of impacting long term reputation. They seem to have got the message albeit with some bad grace. Now as it happens I do have the side steps fitted - very insightful of you Devon A for which my sincere thanks. I will check very carefully the jacking points but of course there are other lumpy bits under there which no doubt would serve just as well for jacking purposes. I have no great affection for side steps, nice to have but I wouldn't set out to buy them, and they could even be removed if absolutely necessary but I am sure there is a solution. I do not intend to spend a fortune on additional parts. An anchor would be straightforward to fabricate, whilst a "wheel to floor spacer" for over £80 - well! Initial thoughts are along the lines of a bucket cut down with a hole in the bottom to provide suitable support - B&Q were selling them for £1 last week. My aim is a safe, feasible solution at minimal expense for something which hopefully will never be used. I have previously walked away due to lack of a spare wheel. A local dealer had a late, previous model Rav for example but no spare, room for a spare and a well reheubikd speech from the salesman attempting to excuse the problem. It was a short conversation and I think he got the message that the customer is always right. This time I was rather more seduced by the vehicle and the price trade off.
  11. Devon A, thank you so much for your very helpful post. Using your information I have already found that the tyre is available from Formula One auto centre at a price of £80, less than 10 miles away, making the cost of the wheel/ tyre less than £150. I note the other items needed, I have jack/tools etc. I certainly recognise the importance of anchoring all of this so that it is contained in the event of accident. My brother has extensive workshop/fabrication facilities including a hydraulic lift so once I set eyes on the beast we will work out how best to do this. Personally I favour some form of locking underfloor compartment cover to contain wheel and everything else. We will see. Thanks again V
  12. After a short break from Toyota, I had a Prius that I took to over 100k, and a pleasant dalliance with Volvo I have just agreed the purchase of a 63 reg Rav4 - 2.2 D4D auto and only 10k on the clock. A few tasty extras such as satnav and heated leather and in superb condition as one might expect. I pick it up next week and am, of course, very keen to get behind the wheel! I had a long test drive in the car yesterday with a good mix of fast dual carriageway, town and country. I was very pleasantly surprised at how "planted"the car felt, rock solid and stable with none of the bumping and crashing that I had read of in some of the "expert" reviews. The engine was a little gruff at tickover and on certain road surfaces a little tyre roar but nothing that the DAB radio and iPod connection can't help to resolve. I am sorry to return to a well thrashed topic - yes, you've guessed it, the spare tyre. I was told mine had a skinny spare under the load floor and wasn't able to check when I first got in the vehicle as it was backed in against a wall. So after the test drive and with my enthusiasm building it was only then that I found there was a big hole and a stupid can of goo in the underfloor. I have been able to order a spacesaver rim "but you'll have to sort the tyre out yourself" said the helpful and charming Mr T in the parts department. The rim costs £64 and I guess the tyre would be a bit less from what I can gather. What I don't know is what size the tyre should be. I was wondering if a very kind MY 14 owner would help me out by lifting the load floor and letting me know what size the space saver tyre is so that I see about getting one from somewhere (suggestions welcome!)? I have a jack, tools etc as Volvo play the same game but I was able to get a rim and tyre complete with a bag from eBay for only £80 that fitted under the loadfloor. I will try the Volvo tyre on the Rav just out of interest but expect that it will end up back on eBay in order to offset the cost of the spacesaver. Needless to say a suitable offset was also negotiated just as I was about to shake hands on the deal using the "… and just one more thing" line. Like so many I refuse to have a car that does not have at least a temporary spare. However I hope that I will shortly have belt and braces with both a spacesaver spare and a can of goo for use in extremis. At least it looks like T have now learned their lesson and about time too. Less than a week to go! Velocette
  13. Many thanks indeed for the helpful inputs. I did check through the last few pages for posts of interest but will also do a search. However the real user mpg info is very useful. The figures quoted are very good for a big petrol auto but after between 56 and 63 for the last few tankfuls from the Prius causes me to think! I have also found a site that suggests this particular vehicle is not good for towing but I only want to pull a light load so am not too concerned. A local garage has just put a Volvo V70 estate diesel auto up for sale, a distinctly different car and about as economical as long as it proves, reliable but no long warranty period on this one. I will take a look but perhaps with not huge enthusiasm. Thanks for your comments, the search continues. Velocette
  14. Hi folks, My mk2 Prius has done 100k and is coming up for replacement.also I need a car with more load space and capable of towing. I do 15 to 20k pa. Thanks to a foot problem I need an auto. First thought was a diesel but the avensis diesels don't get a great write up together with the complications of dpf etc. Honestjohn recommend the 1.8 petrol. A dealer has a 2012 auto with satnav and Bluetooth plus 4 years warranty for 12k which sounds goodish to me and much cheaper than a diesel. I would welcome any comments and advice from forum members together with any thoughts on realistic mpg. I have a 50 mile each way commute, not every day though, and undertake a 300 or so mile weekend round trip each month, plus local trips. We moved house to a new area a month ago and I was pleased to find a Toyota dealer, WKB, a few miles away in Waterloovile. If they are as good as Sims in Northampton I could be laughing - or not? Thanks for reading, welcome your thoughts, Velocette
  15. Thanks to you both for your very helpful suggestions, I will certainly try the Bradford firm Kingo. And the instructions for painless removal are really helpful. I do hope my example at least helps others to avoid my error. Out again house hunting today and reminded of my error every time I look at the screen. Plan A is to call Autosound, plan B to buy a replacement from EBay and then put my own damaged kit on eBay to offset the cost. There is also a crimp in the rear bumper thanks to a low post that I failed to spot when reversing in torrential rain so I am tempted to get that done too. Then a new set of mats and an MOT and it will as good as new for its 100k anniversary and maybe sale. Philosophical now, "it could be worse", "nobody was hurt", "it's only a car" etc etc. :-(. V