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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by Sandman

  1. That's exactly what I envisioned when you suggested sidepipes. I think it would look good. I would go for a round/oval tips but that's just me. And uh, What's up with your paint job? Is that something special? Maybe it's the lighting but it really looks marbled. At first I was going to say spray can But i would like to give you the benefit of the doubt. No offense meant of course.
  2. Another choice would be a lightened Flywheel. But that might be best saved for when a new clutch is needed.
  3. To those interrested---Yes, the g head will bolt onto the f block with no problems. There are other issues but that was the biggest hurdle of the bunch.
  4. If the Paseo engine fits, would'nt the 7afe fit also?
  5. That's 2.25 inches correct? Ya that is about as big as I would go for a n/a engine with the mods your planning.
  6. That would be what is affectionately called clutch shudder. Happens when cold mostly? Not sure on a treatment. I think it's the pressure plate not releasing evenly when engaging the clutch. It usually "fixes" itself.
  7. Excellent idea, Did'nt think of that. Thanks.
  8. Most places like that will keep it a secret because they don't want to be copied. And so they leave it out of the mags unless they are selling a bunch of them. Unfortunately you have to buy the cams in order to measure the lift,duration,and overlap.
  9. I'm in the process of rebuilding a 4afe. I need to know if a g head will bolt on. I Am also looking into different crankshafts but cannot find specs on the different engines. I know that on the f engines most parts swaps over but the strokes are different. Somebody has to know or know where to look. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.
  10. Intake, header, exhaust is a good start for a little more power and a good sound. After that it's up to your budget.
  11. Do you mean brake rotors? A good set of metrics should do the trick. And A brake pad spreader would help. Available at most auto parts stores.
  12. And since it keeps happening you might want to have your alternater checked as well. Though a dead/low cell does sound about right. What is your battery voltage at when you let it sit vs. when it's running?
  13. A dealership should be able to provide you with a blank. Or maybe a locksmith shop carries them. They could then cut you a copy.
  14. That pretty much just means that they did some work early. The warranty period is measured either by the calendar or your odometer. I would'nt worry about it.
  15. Change the tranny fluid. Try a lighter oil. I had the same grinding in my tranny when shifting into 4th and 5th. I changed the fluid to Amsoil series 2000 20w50 and the problem has gone away.
  16. Found some info but not very detailed. Though I did discover that my car was originally a 4afe not a 7afe like I thought. So I have determined that the two can be swapped without any problems. Big woop hey?
  17. If you have an owners manual it should be in there. I did read right that your stereo is still stock?
  18. When it comes down to it, stereos are only as good as their weakest component. The best speakers in the world sound bad through a lowsy system. I like jbl, been around a long time. They make concert speakers and recording studio speakers. I don't own jbl car audio components yet. but when I do they will be jbl without a doubt. I do own a pair of control 5's and the sb5 sub from jbl and I love them. over 10 years and still sound great.
  19. Just tore down the 1.8 litre I pulled from the prizm. It's a 7afe. Put in a new one which I found in a salvage yard for 650$. get this, It had 819 miles. just needed a couple bits from the original and she goes now, pretty well for what it is. So now that I've got a spare lying around I want to rebuild it. I'm looking for a very comprehensive list of all the parts from all the engines with parts that can intermingle. I need actual dimesions. here's what I mean: crankshaft- which ones fit,stroke,journal sizes,forged? rods--------length,forged? hole sizes. pistons---- forged? floating or pressed. c/r in original engine? And of coubik heads--- looking for independent dohc, biggest valves, biggest ports. or maybe cam swapping intake manifold too. thanks
  20. Are you thinking about sidepipes like the older vettes have? I don't think that would be for me. but if you wanted to try having the exhaust exit from somewhere other than the back that might be cool. if you could fab up some holes in front of the rear tires or something and have just the tip showing cut flush with the body. just an idea.
  21. I noticed that you did'nt include a new pcv valve on your list of new parts. cheap & easy. You stated that you use 1 qt. of oil every 3000 miles. That tells me that either your valve guides/seats are leaking and you are getting oil in the combustion chamber or you are getting blowby into the crankcase. this is when the piston rings let some of the flame front past and it scorches a small amount of oil. and as stated, a wet/dry compression test could verify/eliminate this as a suspect. wet/dry= tested normally then a couple squirts of oil in plug hole and test again. compare results. If the dry is lower then the wet then you are getting blowby. If they are both similar then it's valve seats. a faulty pcv valve can also allow oil to be sucked into the intake manifold.(DON"T FORGET TO UNPLUG YOUR IGNITION COIL BEFORE CONDUCTING THIS TEST!!!) Onto the fuel pressure. It will and should run fine at idle and normal driving even if its bad sometimes. You would have to tee a pressure guage into the fuel line and put a vacuum pump on the pressure regulator hose fitting. Turn the key to on but don't start it. this will power your fuel pump. check your pressure. now apply vacuum to the regulator. check the guage and the pressure should go up. also, check the vacuum pump line for fuel as there should be none. if the pressure did not go up then the regulator is bad. and if there is fuel in the vacuum line the regulator is bad. compression ties into this because with low compression you will have a less than optimal ignition of the air/fuel mixture which could let too much unburnt fuel into the exhaust. And a bad fuel pressure regulator would cause lean air/fuel mixture high hydrocarbons can be cause by an excessively lean or an excessively rich air fuel mixture. If you have any other questions, feel free
  22. I think she's still low on refrigerant. could also be a restriction on the low side or a faulty metering device. My bet is still low. Needed more info, what were your high side readings(engaged and disengaged and idle/2krpm)? kudos to you for actually putting in the effort. I'm ripping through my 1300 plus text book trying to help. Good luck.
  23. Actually no, it's not too tricky. Once your ready, just fill the radiator. the level will fall, just keep topping it off. do this till it holds full. now put the cap on. double check your hoses for tightness. now fill the coolant overflow to the hot line. start the engine and check the overflow, you should see bubbles as it warms up. run it warm and turn it off. after she cools it'll suck coolant in from the overflow. Good luck
  24. Low cylinder pressure causes high HC. A compression test would determine that. Also the culprit may be your fuel pressure regulator.
  25. Pull your plugs and figure which one is burning oil. The oil seals on your valves are shot on that cylinder and are not doing their job. this would also explain why you are low on oil all the time.You turn off the engine,oil leaks down into cylinder. you start engine and poof! the oil burns. it seems to go away after a while because it's a slow leak and the engine keeps up no problem. Either that or check your coolant, If it's low then fill the reservoir and run her a couple days & see if it goes down any. Is the smoke blueish? could potentially be a head gasket. The sluggishness could be a bad fuel pressure regulator. change your pcv valve also.
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