edwardio

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About edwardio

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Lee
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Celica VVTI
  • Toyota Year
    2002
  • Location
    Kent

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  1. If I remember correctly you could go for 215/40/17's as they are a more available tyre and therefore cheaper. I run them on mine instead of 205's.
  2. Hi all, I have a work colleague who has recently purchased a 06 Corolla Compressor (67k on the clock), but he has started having issues. Basically it lost all electrics whilst driving. After it being in the garage for a couple of weeks, it has been discovered that the clutch on the compressor is tripping the main ECU fuse to blow. Not sure how the clutch can cause the fuse to blow, but hey! Has anyone else heard of this before? Also is it hard to get hold of a replacement compressor clucth or maybe do a conversion to leave it constantly engaged? Thank you for any help you can provide.
  3. A DPF is nothing more than an expensive filter. It's job is to block. All DPF's should be changed anyway around the 80,000 mile mark, as it would have lost it's ability to properly regenerate. Imagine it similar to a phone battery. Over time it loses it's ability to fully charge. The DPF loses it's ability to clean itself fully out. If you are having MPG & performance issues due to the DPF blocking, then it is becuase you are not done enouogh miles at motorway/highway/freeway speeds. These speeds allows to DPF to heat up to the required temperature to start buring off the built up soot.
  4. I've had my Celica 9 years & I don't have a problem with the beep. I don't know why people have an issue with it. After all how long are you generally in reverse!
  5. Might be worth making sure the calipers are on tight as well.
  6. Ok when was it last serviced? Up to what point did it start playing up & was anything done to the car around that point - parts fitted, petrol from a different garage etc?
  7. Right well firstly, I recommend that you do buy yourself at some point a code reader, as they are handy to have. They vary from £20 upwards. It's really tricky to say without the codes. If you've changed the CAT & one of the sensors (best replace the other one at some point, as they do de-grand over time), then its probably something else. When was it last serviced? Best thing to do is get the code cleared again, but ask for the code. What I would do first though, is give the air filter a clean (or replace if really dirty), plus clean (be very gentle) your MAF sensor and cleaning the spark plugs won't hurt. Then reset the ECU (disconnect the battery for about 10 mins - you can just remove one of the fuses instead of disconnecting the battery, but for the life of me I can't remember which one at the moment). That might help to clear the code & will put the car back into learn mode. Just then drive it normally for a couple of days. Hopefully that may turn the light of or keep it off. If it doesn't, then get the code clear & post the code up then we can take another look. Also as you have a pre-facelift 140, keep a close eye on your oil usage.
  8. Without knowing what the fault codes are, it's rather difficult for us to give any helpful advice. Do you know the codes?
  9. The only way to change the lift point that I know of, is to fit an aftermarket ECU.
  10. Get the lift pins changed as well
  11. If it's a 140, keep clear as it needs a new engine. all pre 2003 140's suffer from a design flaw which can result in oil burning. If not kept on top of results in damaging the bearings. Either buy a 2003 onwards 140 or any 190. If you buy a pre 2003 190, have the cam lift pins changed (they used to suffer from snapping. the post 2003 models had uprated pins).
  12. If you're going to fix it, then you're also best replacing the piston rings & maybe the pistons to the new designed ones, so that it doesn't continue/start to burn oil again.
  13. It's most likely in the cars past it has suffered from the oil burning issue (design flaw). It's been run low on oil, done the bearing in, so the previous owner has topped the oil up & sold it on. Best advice is do an engine swap from a 2003 onwards model. These do not suffer from the oil burning issue and therefore are pretty sound engines.
  14. Pre facelift (99-52) had 255mm front discs. The facelift (03-05) had the 275mm discs (these are the same as the 190). The rears are 269 on all models. The drum rear were only on a limited number at the start of the Celica's production run.
  15. Not worth it. If you had a 190, then I'd say do it but you'd also need an aftermarket ECU to make full use of the gains. Both the 140 & 190 are built & tuned very well from Toyota. Any small mods you make, will have very minor power gains. If you want more power, you need to either buy a more powerful car or going force injection.