nz_aj

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About nz_aj

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Anthony
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Mark X Zio 350G, Camry, Platz (previously Corona, Caldina x 2, Sera, Starlet x 3, Camry, Corolla)
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Other/NonUK
  1. Before refilling with coolant I also drained the remaining coolant from the two block drains and the radiator. The block drains are best accessed from below. I also accessed the radiator drain from below, as the battery would have to be removed for my arms to fit from above. The plastic underbody panel has to be removed from underneath anyway, to access the front block drain. I drained the rear block drain first as it was the easiest to get to. I used a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. I didn't get anything out of the front block drain. The specs online for this motor said 6.7L of coolant. I think it was closer to 7.5L. I poured the coolant into the expansion tank and let it drain into the motor, with the air bleed between the cylinder banks (#3 in picture below) open (use deep reach socket). The last couple of litres are pretty slow, I assume they're having to pass through the air bleed hole in the thermostat, or something similar. The air bleed started to leak coolant just before it was full. I opened the air bleed again soon after starting the motor and some more air escaped. I also opened it again when the motor was hot, just to be sure.
  2. The belt is refitted as per below. I used a gates belt. The belt size is 7PK1550
  3. Water pump bolt torques Bolts A: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).- 12mm heads Bolts B and C: 81 inch lbs. (9.1 Nm). - 10mm heads Bolts C must be replaced with new bolts.- mine looked OK, I reused them I used these torques and had no leaks.
  4. There are 3 screws to remove: - one at the bottom of the grab handle, - one behind the removable panel behind the door handle (pull out with hooked piece of wire or bicycle spoke with handle open) - one accessed by removing the power window switch panel (lever this straight up to avoid breaking plastic lug clips). Door trim panel then can be pulled away from the bottom and sides as normal, and lifted off the top lip. See photos.
  5. Changing the waterpump on the Mark X Zio is similar to: Lexus ES350 3.5L 2007~ 2008 Toyota Sienna The main differences are due to layout and plumbing. To make room in the Zio, the cooland resovior and upper engine mount are removed, then the bracket that holds the engine mount to the motor, then the thermostat housing. Something that isn't obvious in the first video above but can be seen in the Sienna is that after releasing the two hoses from the water pump housing it then pulls off the steel pipe that disappears between the V. The pipe seals with an o-ring. Belt, tensioners and pump all removed as per videos, except I didn't need to remove the crank pulley (2 bottom water pump bolts removed with 1/4 ratchet with 10mm and 12mm sockets), there is no lower engine mount to remove or tensioner to power steering pump (Zio is electric power steer)
  6. I've tried several times to adjust the HID low beam headlight height on my 2007 Mark X Zio and never found the right adjusting screw (there are others). They are located at a 45 degree angle and can't be seen from directly above, see photo. Clockwise screw rotation raises lights.
  7. The problem with the fan turned out to be the controller on the back of the motor, specifically the transister. Refer photos. The window switches were fine, the electric windows just needed resetting. YouTube has a couple of videos showing how to reset modern toyota electric windows. Procedure is turn ignition on, lower drivers window and hold 3 seconds, raise & hold, lower, raise, repeat at drivers rear window, then passenger rear, then passenger front. The cruise control throws up an error code says lost coms with distance module. Signal and power cables all test out OK, so it's probably a bad distance control module/computer, part # 88240-72010. A new replacement is NZ$920 ex Japan, so if anyone knows of a zio with cruise control being wrecked, I'd be interested.
  8. Pressing off, turning the fan speed know, changing vents, using auto, adjusting temperature, turning car on/off all have no effect. The fan speed stays on high. I've checked the wiring to the fan, see photos. These appear to be ground, +12V and a signal wire (small red wire). I couldn't measure anything on the signal wire. I'm not certain how it works so can't be sure it's the problem, i.e. if it is an analog current signal, I wouldn't have picked that up. Unplugging the fan enables the car to be started and driven normally. It may have been coincidence but when unplugged, the electric release for the rear hatch stopped working. I've given up on it and booked car in with auto electrician. Known faults: -heater fan not turning off -remote window switches on drivers door not working -cruise control turns on & off and sometimes says radar ready but pops up an error message before actually working -rear hatch release sometimes not working
  9. My Zio heater blower fan runs continuously, even with the ignition off, until the battery goes flat. It has climate control and all the controls will run via some sort of computer. I can't find much online. This model was made in Japan from 2007-2013. It will likely have a lot of similarities with Auris / Avensis / Camry of similar years. What I have seen is that the USA camry fan has a built in controller. The assembly probably receives +12V directly from the battery, as well as a control wire with a pulsing square form signal from the climate control. The on board controller takes this signal and varies the speed of the fan. There is the potential for a fault with the fan or built in controller to cause the fan to run continuously. Can anyone advise if this is how modern Toyota fans operate, typically what the wiring is like and if this fault is unusual?
  10. I have a Mark X Zio 350G, which is essentially a stretched Auris with 206kW 3.5L 2GR-FE & U660E 6-speed auto. (This is the same spec as the Blade Master G.) It has seating for 6 (2+2+2), while other 2.4L versions have seating for 7 (2+3+2). I'd like to do a seat swap so I could carry 3 people in the middle row. Does anybody know if there is are problems with swapping the middle row of seats from 2 person to 3? Factory tyre size is 225/45R18 on 18x7.5J alloys. Any recommendations for tyres with better grip that would fit on the factory alloys? It has a Japanese HDD navigation system. I know this can be loaded with maps for NZ, I'd potentially want to do this myself. Any pointers for changing to English, loading maps, changing radio frequencies? Any know issues with these vehicles?
  11. I had a problem with the same symptoms on my leanburn 7A-FE, it was caused by a dirty idle air control valve which would stick in position or only allow operation over a limited range. This is located below the throttlebody, it has an electrical plug for the solenoid, and two small coolant hoses. 4 bolts hold it to the throttlebody. I swapped mine out for a second hand part but I could probably have just cleaned out the original. Now runs perfectly.
  12. This redirects to another site & I can't find anything there. Anyone got a copy?
  13. The rear drums & shoes are worn. The drums are worn to the point where the auto adjuster has to be backed off a long way to remove them. Rather than replace them both, I was contemplating how much trouble it might be to swap in discs. The suspension & drums are also the same as my 1996 Corona, so I may have that to do in future too. I can source discs, calipers & hubs off a Celica, Curren or upspec Corona pretty easily, these should be the same as Caldina (Avensis). The difficult questions are: 1) Is the ABS system the same between disc/drum? I'm assuming the sensors for the disc setup will plug straight into the loom, but am unsure about the ABS pump & computer. There is a difference between my Corona & Caldina, the Corona has a Nippon Denso pump & separate computer in the passenger cabin, while the Caldina has a Bosch or Bosch style all in one pump/computer. Not sure if this makes a difference either. 2) Is the master cylinder the same between disc/drum? Does it have a smaller or larger bore? 3) Handbrake cable. Is it the same between disc/drum?
  14. To hold the crankshaft for loosening & tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt, I put the car in 4th or 5th gear & had my wife press the brake pedal firmly. To hold the engine while the mount is removed, either jack from below the sump and/or place a length of wood across the engine bay and support with a length of chain wrapped around it & bolted to the engine. Toyotas usually come with hooks bolted to the engine for lifting purposes that can be relocated to a more convenient bolt if necessary.
  15. Mine are tan, 1996 Jap spec 1.8L leanburn 7A-FE twin coil distributorless. How do you know when injectors are no good?