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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by bpsmicro

  1. Apologies for the long delay, I don't get in here very often. I went through exactly the same thing with my 2000 Sienna. Basically, there's a bi-metalic strip attached to the motor. This is a sensor to detect when the window has become jammed (ie. your hand is in the window when you roll it up). It detects the motor "overheating" when it goes under the extra load, and then breaks the contact. This stops the motor. Of course, we couldn't get *just* the bi-metal switch, it's part of the whole motor assembly. So we intended on just "hot-wired" it. There's an inherent risk in this approach though, since if something *is* stuck in the window the safety feature won't cut in and the motor won't shut off. This could lead to the motor burning out, the glass shattering or whatever's within getting squished. We were lucky though. Once we got the motor assembly out (which is a *very* painful job), cleaned everything up anbd bench-tested, it begain working fine. We crossed our fingers and reinstalled, and it's been fine ever since (2+ years now). Brad.
  2. It's pretty easy to do yourself. The usual safety precautions about lying underneath a jacked-up vehicle apply. It's a little difficult to describe, but you'll find where the swaybars are attached to the frame just above & in front of each rear wheel. There's a bracket held on by a single bolt. The bushings themselves are slotted to allow easy removal & installation. Don't be dismayed that the hole in the new one looks considerably smaller than the old. Therein lies the problem you're solving. My mechanic liberaly gobbed anti-seize on the bar and inside of the bushing (the non-petroleum silvery stuff). That's so any moisture that gets in won't cause much rusting. Don't use grease or any petroleum-based stuff because it'll eat the rubber. Re-bolt the brackets and you're good to go.
  3. I tapped into the power wires feeding the radio. They're usually good at handling the current requirements of the car kit. But it took a bit of trial and error to figure out which ones to use from the seemingly hundreds of wires coming out. What many professional installers use is these tiny metal clips that go right into the fuse holder in the main fusebox. I'm personally a bit leary of having metal bits sticking out of my fusebox, but supposedly they're okay for most purposes. Certainly easier to install. Yeah, when I installed my car kit in my '98 one of the clips holding in the radio faceplate had gotten bent out of shape during the initial install, and I ended up cracking the faceplate. You would not have wanted to be standing within earshot that evening. :ffs: Luckily, the crack was in a non-visible location. Oh, and since you've had the Nokia kit for a while I suppose you already know that the Ignition Sense stuff doesn't work. I'm still a little steamed with Nokia about that little flub.
  4. Are you asking about the actual wiring, or the mounting of the handset? For the former I can't offer specific advice since I prefer to locate appropriate wires and tap into them but cutting & soldering (I hate those blue clippy thingies). I always say if you're not comfortable messing with the internal wiring, hire a professional. For the handset, Panavise makes brackets for many makes & models. Quite a few cell phone installers use them now, and may sell you just the bracket. They're designed to share one of the radio bolts and poke out through the dash moulding in a manner that almost makes them look factory provided. You'd have to see one to appreciate them. See their web site for details.
  5. Replace the rear swaybar bushings. They're $10 rubber bits, and less than half an hour's labor. I had mine done recently and the mysterious noise disappeared. Since the parts & labor are so cheap, I'd just go ahead and do it. Couldn't hurt, might help. :-)
  6. I had a very similar problem with my old '90 Camry. One of the wires going from the "control panel" in the door itself to the security module (which also ran the power locks) broke inside the rubber boot going from the door to the car. Years of flexing I guess. I can't tell you how time-consuming it was to determine the problem, and then fish a replacement wire through. :censor: You might want to try pulling out the control panel in the door (that's the one with all the door lock buttons). If memory serves, it lifts up from the front if you're persuasive. Then unplug it, and see if that releases the electric relays that hold it locked. If so, you'll be able to pull up the lock button (what people pre-electronic locks did to unlock doors) and get it open.
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