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novamuncher

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Everything posted by novamuncher

  1. Hi, just wondered if anyone on here is breaking a st162 up for spares? Im after a sunroof, which if im right doesnt make any difference wether its a late celica or not, but the grilles got headlamp washers built in to it. Ive put put a request on 24/7 spares but no joy a yet (since yesterday). IF you can help me out with this one id appreciate it as the sunroof REALLY needs doing, and paying the full wack from Toyota isnt exactly an option ive got. Cheers
  2. Hi, just read your post, try taking off the wheels to gain access to the ABS ring on the wheel - usually around the C.V. joint, clean it up as best you can with a soft wire brush, opposite this should be the sensor, clean it gently with a soft damp cloth. If you can get hold of a multimeter, set it to the Ohms setting/reading and link the contacts to the sensor and ring, and slowly spin the wheel. It should be reading around 0.6 Ohms, but if youve got a manual it should say in there (if its different) Also should check the brake fluid level and condition, if its a very dark or black in color Id advise changing it, or you could put the car in for a service and it should get done then (on an A service). Hope this helps
  3. Just a suggestion, but get some fuel treatment, pour it into the tank, and take the car for a bit of a thrash - but you dont have to go too mad, just to warm up the system - the cats dont work properly first time from cold, so this could be the problem, or it may be a faulty lambda sensor (££££ and more ££££). Good luck
  4. hi again, cant say ive heard of that mod, dont suppose you know of a link that explains it? the only think i can think of is that it tells the ecu that its pumping in a specified amount of air..hmmm....lol....but for a grand they can look after it for now lol (plus I dont have a gt4 lol) while im blabbering, il ad that i was wrong about the turning direction, clockwise lowers the rpm and counter clock- is to raise...and that you got to disconnect the fan while adjusting it (not when its runing tho lmao) anyway, glad its sorted !!!! :D
  5. aight iggy, the AFM needs to be plugged in to run (i know you probly knew this already, but if its not it wont sent a signal to the ECU so it will probably try to dump more fuel in) Check make sure none of the connectors are damaged and that its all making contact. Somewhere on the intake manifold there should be a little black cap/plug, if you remove it there should be a screw in there which allows you to adjust the idle rpm via the air flow. mark where it is with paint (what direction the screwdriver slit is facing). turn it clowckwise to increase air flow, and counter clockwise to lower it. If this doesnt work try taking off the negative battery terminal for a few minutes (to reset the ECU)- but make sure the airflow screw is where it started off. Hope this helps and good luck
  6. Hi, just wondered if anyones replaced their detent springs in the gearbox of an ST162, and if its possible to do them with gearbox in situ ? The problem I have is it keeps jumping out of 2nd, and 5th gear. Im just kind of hoping its a "relatively simple" (haha), so any further advise would be appreciated. Cheers
  7. losing it, yes...lol - off the top of my head, is it a turbo celica youv got, and is it a cooling "run on" type thing? or the fan carries on until engine is cooler - dont forget at standstill the engine is at its hottest, heat rises and is trapped (mostly) due to the bonnet. so it might be something like that ?? out of curisity...can you photograph sound? :P lol I got some sounds need lookin at :D
  8. have you checked the relay? unfortunately i dont know where it could be, but if youv got a manual its location might be in there, failing that it could either be in the engine bay around any fuse box areas, or maybe on the inside front footwells. its not a lot but hope it helps
  9. might be worth having a look at the plugs, dizzi cap & rotor arm, and leads. Also check fuel regulator (on fuel rail) make sure thats not clogged up (untighten it but dont remove, get someone to crank the engine but not to try n start as petrol will be leaking out everywhere if its not blocked) - could even try a new fuel filter. Or, the timing could be out... off the top of me head thats about all i can think of without going into major detail. good luck
  10. just read through - could be worth getting a tensioner pulley and guide pulley (idle pulley? - i think its the same thing yeah? i just use different names for things lol). As for cam cover gaskets, only get them if the ones youv got have perished and are seeping oil out - but its your choice.
  11. 30 psi (2bar) should be ok - but check they tyre as it might have the amount needed on it somewhere
  12. no worries :hokus-pokus:
  13. if u look for the diagnostic socket (passenger side at the bulkhead) connect up TE1 and E1 connectors using a piece of wire to bridge them. Turn on your ignition (but dont crank the car over), the engine light should flash an amount of times, then a pause and youl get another set of flashes. try that and see if it reveals anything, and let me know the code error no. and if you dont have access to code meanings post again and il let you know. good luck
  14. try this when the engines cold, fill up rad and overflow to their max marks, and run the engine with the rad cap off, and squeeze the hoses to help the water go through them. carry on filling the rad as necesary (with water if youv already put plenty of antifreeze in), wait until the fan starts, then cuts out, turn the heater on to full heat and the highest it goes speedwise. once the fans kicked in the second time you should be ok to put the rad cap back on - but dont take the rad cap off from a hot engine as its under pressure and you could get scalded. that should do the trick unless theres another problem. good luck
  15. did you set up the engine timing right on crankshaft pulley and camshafts? and did you move the distributor at all? might be worth checking if they fireing at the right time (couldnt tell you how many degrees before tdc without looking at a manual) the other thought ive had is to diagnose the ecu - might be a fault in there somewhere. good luck
  16. Lol, totally agree with that one - been there, done that - they managed to confuse an old mini clubman with a Renault van... can someone tell em the difference please...lol but that was for out of date tax on the van , id been pulled over for being in a dodgy area (aparently) so the cops were checking it was my car and was all legit. Van had different reg plate, was white....the mini, short, small and made before Renault vans were on the road.. go figure! with the tax in your area... i think its a matter of time before it happens. speaking of revenues (i know how some of you so love it lol...) aparently on the M25 where the roadworks are (and newly fitted Gatsos, active ones) well, the gatsos fines are supposed to be helping fund the roadworks... wouldnt mind if there wasnt one every 1/2 mile or so! I think theyr from the A30 staines turn off up to jsut before the M4 slip road. and its a 40 mph limit (for the guys working on the roads safety) - which is fair enough but i still think it takes the p** going on how much a gatso costs etc.. can anyone enlighten me on this? i just heard it through the grapevine and it got me thinking.....
  17. these days? neither. the last cruise i went to was 4 year ago, but iv noticed in max crapper that there are a lot of (i really should be carefull how i word this lol)..... unsavoury characters...lol
  18. yeah theory says im too old for cruises too, but i like making them feel small and having to prove something... young dumb.... im rarely wrong on my "victims" lol.
  19. Well, Ive been to both cruises and meets, enjoy both the same - the legalites on wheels spinning, doughnuts etc is basically illegal on public roads or public places, which sometimes includes superstore car parks as theyr owned by the local council, and therefore making it a public place. - not 100% on everything, oh hell, its only illegal if you get caught lol (that doesnt mean you can do it tho, ok? ;) ) I enjoy driving me car in a "normal" and sensible way, just as much as enjoy ragging it down a country road - if i wasnt going to do that then i would of got a smaller cc car, however, lol............ if im in with a cruise, il do the limit and keep me distance, let the idiots fly past me at god knows what speed, and let them show me where plod is (usually theyr getting fined or searched when i go past...lol) but then, were motorists anyway, so cops are out to get their revenue (fines/speedin tickets), if they get a hot hatch or performance car then they get to really go over it and see how much they can make..... i just dont think its about safety or legalities anymore... just the bling bling. well, my 2 pennies safe driving
  20. off hand i honestly couldnt tell you - though there should be another no. on the tyre which is the tread wear (should you go looking into it). As for my 2pennies on tyres.... you dont get what you pay for all the time... when it first kicked off in Iraq, there were tyre companies that immediatly raised the price of their tyres by 30% , the war wasnt going on where their factories were, they were just cashing in on it - such is life i guess. As for me driving on cheap tyres... they werent on me celica, but they taught me a lot (how to drive on ice lmao)
  21. what condition is the brake fluid in? best description i can give is it should look like strong tea (without milk lol), if its very dark with lots of black patches in it (dirt), remove the reservoir and clean it out thoroghly with brake wash, put clean/new fluid in then bleed it through till the clean fluid comes through. - dont know if youv bled brakes before, its relatively easy, but start from the corner furthest away and make your way round to the side closest, checking that you dont use up all the fluid (which would then put air in the system, and leave you with the same pedal force as what you have now - spongy feel to it?) good luck buddy
  22. Yeah Yoko's do wear quite quick, id only put them on for track events (cos theyr not cheap either lol), but its worth knowing what youve got or what you might end up with so as u dont end up having a mishap due to tyres failing.
  23. Depends what your after, but try and go for these marks on a tyre, they are printed around the tyre itself. Temperature A - is for hot areas, or summetime. B - for normal weather (around this time of year. C - Cold weather. Traction A - tyre performed well on both surfaces B - tyre performed on one of the surfaces C - (need we say anymore? lol) performance is poor on one or both. Theres a letter thats there too, usually "V" - which is the speed rating (149mph/240kmh) hope this is of some use to you. Then theres the load capacity (can be anything, mines 80 per wheel) good luck
  24. Man sounds like your having a ruff time with the garage. A few things you ought to consider: Your car went in for a service not too long ago right? - a full service, in which case they should of replaced the brake fluid if it was dirty - as its hydroscopic (attracts moisture from the air, and if its not changed when in this condition can be very serious). They should of also checked and adjusted the loss of movement in the handbrake cable (movement being from the h/brake being lifted to when the pads/shoes make contact with the disks/drums) - they should of picked up the handbrake cable being dogdy at this point. some models have the inner shoes in the disks, in which case they should of removed the disks and checked the inner pads, if not, they should check the mechanism at the pad/handbrake end, and lubricated them with plenty of oil, and them greased them good and proper as the free movement is necesary for the handbrakes operation. and they should report any further work that the car needs doing once the service is complete - then different garages vary and they dont have to tell you unless the car isnt safe to be driven. try asking the garage where you got it serviced if they knew anything and take it from there, good luck jimlad
  25. i dunno if youv sorted it out since the last post - but i was gonna suggest having a look to see if the springs are in the right way up (i know, this will probably raise a few eyebrows lol) - i used to have spax springs on another motor, and i sent her to the garage so they could be fitted but she came back with the same problem youve got- so i had a look - on the side that was higher - the springs were in so the "spax" logo was upside down....got the spring compressors and sorted it out. hope its something as simple as this though
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