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    Auris 1.6 T Spirit, Toyota Prius T-Spirit, Daihatsu Charade EL
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  1. You say you pulled the key out, do you mean it stopped then or just carried on with the key out? If it carried on until it stopped I'd agree with the above, it's probably burned all it's own oil and started to seize, or has bent/broken something fairly serious. Also as mentioned, I'm guessing/hoping where you are insurance is not a legal requirement? Good luck getting it sorted out.
  2. Happy Birthday adam_d!

  3. Do you have a picture of the unit? There are a few different kinds with different pin codes and bluetooth identifiers. Also, the last time I checked was admittedly about a year ago, but a normal iPhone could only communicate with the wifi based dongles due to Apple's restrictions on bluetooth.
  4. On that Corolla, the diagnostic port is under the bonnet, and is not the standard OBD2 shape, but the old Toyota connector. (At least that's how it was on mine.) You can get adaptors for that connector on eBay, but I'm not sure if it's the same protocol. In Europe, cars were not required to meet the standards until 2001 for petrols, and 2004 for petrols.
  5. I guess your car is pre-vvti, as the vvti engines used a chain not a belt, so you should have the 4a-fe with it being a 1.6. That engine is non-interference as Druid Boy has said, I wouldn't like to say it will have definitely 100% survived, but I would say try fitting a new belt and see what happens.
  6. That sounds fairly bad, it might be worth mentioning though we had a problem on our 2008 Auris where the wheel nuts (alloy wheels) were completely rusted in to the point of being seized in. It took the garage an hour, and a lot of wd40 to get them out, and at the time they said it'd been a common complaint. They didn't charge then for a new set of nuts, so it might be worth trying again on that front. I guess they will be similar on the steel wheels.
  7. adam_d

    Spark Plugs ?

    I always check anyway, but find they're usually correctly gapped out of the box. I usually use Bosch or NGK plugs, can't speak for any other makes.
  8. I have a bluetooth ebay elm327, and it's very picky about how it finds the car. The only way mine will work is if the ignition is on, but the car is not running. It will detect the ECU fine, and then the car can be started. If the car is already running when I try to connect, it sits there scanning protocols forever. Might be worth a try if you haven't tried that already.
  9. This is possibly completely unrelated, but does the 1.33 do that thing where it blips the throttle up a little bit when you change gear? This caused problems with the clutch on our 1.6 Auris, which was replaced after a few thousand miles and was blamed on that behaviour. Strangely this clutch has been perfectly fine since then, but the car still does do that little blip, and especially when changing from 1st to 2nd, it feels like you're putting more strain on the clutch than you need.
  10. 1.) IQ current model 2.) Prius Current Model 3.) Not sure, I'll come back to it :P Edit: Beaten to it by Karma Supra 4.) Auris HSD 5.) 2000GT 6.) Aygo Crazy Concept
  11. Coming back to the oil, you say it's a 2003 1.8. There could be a chance it had the oil burning problem, so the level dropped low enough to cause an issue here? Apologies if you have already checked this.
  12. Our old 2001 avensis 1.8 had this problem at around 80000 miles, but went to 86000 before it started using oil past the threshold at which Toyota would investigate it. During this time, it didn't kill any sensors, or the cat, and passed it's MOT perfectly. May have been lucky there However, they fixed the engine under the extended warranty that was around at the time, and the engine was perfect after that up until 108000 miles, when we sold it. As far as I'm aware, it's still going. So, my suggestion would be make sure, somehow, from service records or something, that the work has been done. I don't think the problem was sorted til around 2004, but don't quote me on that. Hope this helps.
  13. Discovered this yesterday, went out in the morning and it just went straight in using the adaptor off the end of the clockwise tool, and a bit of trickery. Ah well, good to know it's nothing too serious. :D Thanks for your replies :)
  14. Thanks for the replies. clives - That doesn't sound good. :( Really hoping that's not what's happened. Mooly - Good thinking, will try that next. Krait - Yeah, the tool I got from Halfords, has a little thing on the end which slots into the slots on the piston, and as you twist, pushes as turns at the same time, using a plate to push against. I haven't explained too well, a picture may be better. I'll try the suggestion of the bleed screw tomorrow, I hope this isn't going to result in needing a new caliper...
  15. Hi guys, spent most of this morning on this, and can't seem to get anywhere. My dads Auris 1.6 needed new pads on the rear, so we had a go at changing them this morning. It was all going well til we tried to get the piston back in. We have the rewind tool from Halfords, but we cannot get it to budge inwards at all. Turning clockwise is completely stuck, it just will not move, and it seems to have moved out a little Anti-clockwise has no resistance, but the tool doesn't spin that way, and it doesn't seem to go in either. We have the fluid reservoir cap off, but it just won't budge, so it's currently stuck in the garage with the rear brake apart. Are we missing anything here? Thanks
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