Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Bodgit-fixit-run

Registered Member
  • Posts

    409
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Malc
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Rav4 XT2 Diesel
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Leicestershire

Bodgit-fixit-run's Achievements

Rising Star

Rising Star (9/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

4

Reputation

  1. Happy Birthday Bodgit-fixit-run!

  2. Not heard of plus gas. Is that an aerosol spray as well. I don't think penetrating oil would have got in far enough. Once I was able to get the second side bolt back a little into the bush I could them fill that with WD40 and leave it to soak for about 30mins and then tease it the rest of the way. I was then able to reuse the bolt on reassembly which wasn't an option on the first side as it simply would not give at all.
  3. The problem was the retaining bolts had corroded inside the bush so I could not get them out without a lot of hammering and brute force plus half a can of WD40. Pleased to say It is now done successfully.
  4. I thought that was probably the case. I'll have another look today. Thanks.
  5. Following on from my tyre wear issue and broken rear spring. Tried to change it today. Discovered that the lower suspension arm outer bush bolt has corroded itself into the bush. Broke three sockets trying to undo it. I ended up having to grind the bolt head off and nut to released the thing now need to replace the bush cos I still can't get the bolt out. Anyone know if I can get new bushes and fixing bolts or do I need to replace the whole arm. It's the arm with the camber adjuster on it. Or any thoughts on how to get the remainder of the bolt out without scrapping the current bush.
  6. I think it's safe to say it's not the turbo. So many have had this fault yet Mr T doesn't care. I've had it for over 70k now and still not found the actual definitive cause.
  7. Scary bit is I was towing my caravan round Wales last week. Am I lucky or what?
  8. never got the geometry done but I think I've just found the problem. Rear offside coil spring snapped right up in the retaining cup. It will certainly account for the wear and consequent wobble. Only found it by accident as I was replacing the brake pads and disks so giving everything a good clean in the wheel arch as one does.
  9. Give it all a good spray with WD40 and work it a little to see if that eases it. The linkage is adjustable as to position but disturb it at your peril. Note which direction you move it and how far so you can put it back. I know some have done this and been able to resolve the problem. It does sound like stuff has got a little seized. You might need to take the turbo off but that is a really fiddly job and I found easier if I could access the underside of the engine as well. Have you got a workshop manual?
  10. Sound like the diagnostic port to me too.
  11. I changed to a solid flywheel and clutch last year. Well worth the effort. Got mine from Techniclutch on ebay only £126 or theabouts plus fitting at my local 4 by 4 garage. I also tow with it. The friction plate has longer springs so acts in the same way as the DMF, I think.
  12. Turbo vacuum unit is at the back of the engine bay to right of engine as you face it. Vac' pipe goes into side I think. Feel under the unit and you will find the linkage mechanism. Dis connect the other end of the vac pipe and feeling the linkage suck the pipe. You should feel the linkage move up and then return when you stop sucking. The actual wastegate isn't very visible.
  13. It's a common fault code. I've had my car from new 10yrs this year and done almost 140k miles. I've had the fault coming up mainly on towing, usually at around 2500rpm. I just now reset the error using a hand held code reader. Clean the egr valve and spray some wd40 into the vacuum sensor/valve things just above it, can't remember what they are called. also spray around the vacuum valve mechanism linkages. Make sure the vacuum pipes are all sound. I rebuilt my turbo with parts from ebay. much cheaper than a replacement / recon unit. Also make sure the waste gate isn't carboned up. Buy a fault code reader they are dirt cheap so if it happens again and it probably will you can then just clear it and carry on.
  14. Is it not possible to clear the programming and start again? Probably a silly question but still worth asking.
  15. I think I filled mine with fuel line cleaner and then primed it but it was a long time ago and I can't remember what I did.
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership