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Bodgit-fixit-run

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Everything posted by Bodgit-fixit-run

  1. Not heard of plus gas. Is that an aerosol spray as well. I don't think penetrating oil would have got in far enough. Once I was able to get the second side bolt back a little into the bush I could them fill that with WD40 and leave it to soak for about 30mins and then tease it the rest of the way. I was then able to reuse the bolt on reassembly which wasn't an option on the first side as it simply would not give at all.
  2. The problem was the retaining bolts had corroded inside the bush so I could not get them out without a lot of hammering and brute force plus half a can of WD40. Pleased to say It is now done successfully.
  3. I thought that was probably the case. I'll have another look today. Thanks.
  4. Following on from my tyre wear issue and broken rear spring. Tried to change it today. Discovered that the lower suspension arm outer bush bolt has corroded itself into the bush. Broke three sockets trying to undo it. I ended up having to grind the bolt head off and nut to released the thing now need to replace the bush cos I still can't get the bolt out. Anyone know if I can get new bushes and fixing bolts or do I need to replace the whole arm. It's the arm with the camber adjuster on it. Or any thoughts on how to get the remainder of the bolt out without scrapping the current bush.
  5. I think it's safe to say it's not the turbo. So many have had this fault yet Mr T doesn't care. I've had it for over 70k now and still not found the actual definitive cause.
  6. Scary bit is I was towing my caravan round Wales last week. Am I lucky or what?
  7. never got the geometry done but I think I've just found the problem. Rear offside coil spring snapped right up in the retaining cup. It will certainly account for the wear and consequent wobble. Only found it by accident as I was replacing the brake pads and disks so giving everything a good clean in the wheel arch as one does.
  8. Give it all a good spray with WD40 and work it a little to see if that eases it. The linkage is adjustable as to position but disturb it at your peril. Note which direction you move it and how far so you can put it back. I know some have done this and been able to resolve the problem. It does sound like stuff has got a little seized. You might need to take the turbo off but that is a really fiddly job and I found easier if I could access the underside of the engine as well. Have you got a workshop manual?
  9. Sound like the diagnostic port to me too.
  10. I changed to a solid flywheel and clutch last year. Well worth the effort. Got mine from Techniclutch on ebay only £126 or theabouts plus fitting at my local 4 by 4 garage. I also tow with it. The friction plate has longer springs so acts in the same way as the DMF, I think.
  11. Turbo vacuum unit is at the back of the engine bay to right of engine as you face it. Vac' pipe goes into side I think. Feel under the unit and you will find the linkage mechanism. Dis connect the other end of the vac pipe and feeling the linkage suck the pipe. You should feel the linkage move up and then return when you stop sucking. The actual wastegate isn't very visible.
  12. It's a common fault code. I've had my car from new 10yrs this year and done almost 140k miles. I've had the fault coming up mainly on towing, usually at around 2500rpm. I just now reset the error using a hand held code reader. Clean the egr valve and spray some wd40 into the vacuum sensor/valve things just above it, can't remember what they are called. also spray around the vacuum valve mechanism linkages. Make sure the vacuum pipes are all sound. I rebuilt my turbo with parts from ebay. much cheaper than a replacement / recon unit. Also make sure the waste gate isn't carboned up. Buy a fault code reader they are dirt cheap so if it happens again and it probably will you can then just clear it and carry on.
  13. Is it not possible to clear the programming and start again? Probably a silly question but still worth asking.
  14. I think I filled mine with fuel line cleaner and then primed it but it was a long time ago and I can't remember what I did.
  15. Petrol or diesel? I have an XT2 diesel with almost 140K and it's fine. Get the occasional overboost warning p1521 mainly when towing the caravan but just clear it with a hand set code reader. (It's happened since 70K so clearly not a really serious problem). Got through a couple of clutches but do a lot of towing. 1st one was a DMF failure. 2nd was wear and tear. Now running on a solid flywheel conversion with no problems and much much cheaper. XT3 is leather trim which is why we didn't buy it as my wife is allergic to leather. Don't think there are any other differences. Hope this helps
  16. I have a similar intermittent problem. it's caused by radio interference. Do you have a smart meter for gas electric? The other option is to contact ofcom however they would want to charge £90.00 per hour or part thereof to investigate if the problem is found to be "within your control". We still haven't found the solution so have to put up with it. It could be almost any wireless device including illicit mobile phones etc. It's not the car or radio fob. I thought the motor industry were supposed to be trying to sort out a specific radio frequency which would not get interference for auto locking systems and smart keys but can't rember where I read it. unfortunately this won't solve your problem but when instigated should prevent future cars doing it.
  17. Not sure what that would be. Had my Rav 10 years this November and never had a problem with the injectors.
  18. If the ABS ring is broken it would be quite visible on inspection also check the censors aren't loose. Are you certain the disks are OK? Eg not below minimum wear badly grooved or distorted in any way? Check for sticking callipers and correct calliper assembly. I was asked to check the brakes on my son in laws car once cos they seemed faulty to discover they had actually somehow been reassembled back to front so could not work. Don't ask how cos it's impossible to explain. Have you done both sets of pads? The rear ones can become sticky due to corrosion on the cotter pins.
  19. Have you changed the brake fluid? Try that and see what happens. Ideally fluid should be changed every couple of years. it will also bleed the system for you as well. Check all the fittings for the callipers etc. Make sure nothing is loose.
  20. Have you checked the bonnet is properly closed or other doors for that matter? Also if during daytime could this be temperature related?
  21. No livestock hiding in the car is there e.g. small rodents or insects in the system.
  22. My pleasure. I do a lot of towing with mine so the clutch gets a lot of use.
  23. Hi sorry for delay in getting back my internet is playing up. My first clutch failed at 70k DMF collapsed. Second clutch at around 130k clutch slipping. decided to change to SMF due to cost of DMF and improvements in SMF. I took it to Hill Top Garage in Earl Shilton who did it cash in hand £350 I think. he commented on how good the clutch was made and really surprised at the price. They are a 4x4 specialist.
  24. Yep I get it when towing. I thinks it's almost impossible to definitively pin this one down. I' gone through the whole gambit including rebuilding the turbo. Theres a small valve above the egr valve. Spray into it with wd40 or similar and see what that does. Just watch your revs around 2300 when towing and avoid 5th gear. I find that helps a lot. I also carry a fault code reader and clear the code when it comes up, I then just carry on.
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