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  • Toyota Model
    1998 Corolla Station Wagon 1.6

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  1. Atm it's at 175000 km ('bout 110000 miles) I thought about alternator problem for a moment but then I'd have expected the battery to die quickly. It's not dead and in fact the battery charger does not report the battery to need any charging. Not so sure about it anymore though. Still waiting for the sensor, it's getting put in tomorrow morning so I should have the result posted in the afternoon. I've heard from the guys at the garage that this weird problem is also happening to other Toyotas (in this case they mentioned a Previa and an Avensis).
  2. First of all I'd like to thank all here for the fabulous reading material. As additional information I'd like to recount my own story of Corolla stalling at traffic lights. (1998 Corolla with 4A-FE engine - 1.6 euro version) 1. It would only stall and die when the engine was neither completely cold nor fully warm. 2. When warm the revs would dip way below the 700rpm but come back up and be ok and steady. 3. Kangarooing effects when taking my foot off the gas were always there and pressing the gas again would cause a noticeable delay. 4. When REALLY warm e.g. after a 200km trip with speeds of 160-170kph (gotta love German highways) the idle would flutter in the 400-1000rpm range until the engine cooled off a bit. 5. The weird part is: when I took the battery out and charged it overnight the effect would disappear for a few days and later kick-in, gradually worsening. According to all tests the battery is good though, so I don't expect the battery to be the root cause. After 3 trips to different Toyota dealers I've finally been told it's the lambda sensor which will cost me €300 to replace. (gotta hate Dutch prices). After reading the whole story above my post, I'm inclined to agree with the guys at Toyota and go ahead with the change of the sensor. I've still got a question to whoever might know: In view of point 5, can it actually be lambda sensor? I've still got to wait for the sensor to arrive and of course if it doesn't fix the problem they'll be switching it back faster than they've put it in. cheers Shakul
  3. On a 1998 Corolla. I'm doing 160kph by the speedo and distance posts along the road say it's 152. Probably all the speedo's give similar error which would say 125(speedo)~=120(real). But it hurts to know.
  4. First check the battery thoroughly, but assuming it is ok what can be the problem is the elctromagnetic thingy that actually couples the starter into the whole engine/gearbox system. When you turn the key back to the on positition this decouples the starter. It works on elecromagnets. What could be wrong is that the starter spins put is not coupled to the engine. It is virtually noiseless then so you'd have to be really near to hear if it is spinning. Bad thing is I don't know how to actually verify and/or repair it. I'd go with dismounting the starter (dunno how, never done it) and while it's still electrically plugged in check how it works. ... Oh yeah. Check if all the cables supplying the starter are ok. Might be that the couply thingy works but due to some cable problem the starter doesn't budge. Ok, out of ideas now.
  5. If you fit lower springs the geometry changes I don't think you can correct that without specialised equipment.
  6. Check if the wooshing is not caused by a faulty door seal or the air moving around the right mirror. Could be either. If the fan is off and the vent closed it should definitely NOT be making any noises.
  7. I'd also invest in some wheel locks :) Better safe than sorry. Besides it would be stupid to find your car sitting on the ground.
  8. On the parking place means slow speed and a lot of turning. Check if the noise is only when your wheel is turned all the way. It is probably power steering and its limits. I have the same when I try to push more than it can. Of course it all depends on the noise itself. But whatever it is it's probably got to do with power steering.
  9. As Sjrainsford says, check the cabling first. Rule of thumb is that 1Farad per 1000W worth of amps should be enough. So if you've got this 1F/1000W ratio sorted than check first the distance between the cap and amps (should be as short as possible - not critical but helps) and check the negative cable. (e.g connection at the amp and and the other end). I have not heard of any dimming porblems from people having 2kW eq stuffed in their car and running standard batteries and alternator. The high momentary output is realised by the cap and as long as the total current is less than what your alternator's producing you should not need another one. Good luck
  10. After the incident I've been checking the oil in panic almost evety time I stopped. The masurements gave me a 4mm loss over a 1300km distance. According to the manual 4mm translates roughly to 175ml. i.e 135ml/1000km (let's make it 150) and so I'd like to know if that's normal or not really. Thanks for the info about thinning I'm not that technical so I wasn't aware, in that case then if I've not damaged anything I'm gonna be exchanging the oil every 5000km. Another question though. The manual states that suitable oil is 10W40. I'm running now 5W40 because I frequently travel to countries which have -35 centigrade in the winter and I was experiencing problems starting up. As I understand 5W40 is also thinner by default (or am I wrong) could that also add up to my problem? Basically I'd like to still be able to use Nitrous and have an engine. So is there any oil you'd suggest that would make it as easy on the engine as possible? Greetz
  11. Hi! I've recently gone for holiday and the distance run out of hand. In short, I have gone for roughly 16000km without maintenance i.e. oil change. About 2000km from home the oil control lit up for a moment on cold engine in the morning and at the same time I could hear clanking sound from under the hood at certain revs. I stopped at the next gas station and checked the oil level - it was so low that the bayonet did not even get wet. I filled her up with 2 liters which was enough to get it roughly to max. I've also taken the time to look into the engine and under the car where I have NOT seen any leaks. My question is: Is it conceivable that the engine has burnt this oil by internal leaks in a manner that is acceptable? (it was 2 litres in 16000km) To make matters worse this engine has a very conservative nitrous system, by conservative I mean roughly 50hp. I understand that this could have had an impact but since the installation I have used up only 1 bottle of 10l (i.e. 7kg) and never used it below 3000revs. I'd love some feedback. P.S. If I've damaged the engine enough it will be time to think of a conversion to 4agze or 3sgte, but that's in the future.
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