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  • Toyota Model
    MR2 ZZW30

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  1. Dont take the nuts out... Read the Head unit fitting guides on the ROC... http://www.mr2roc.org/subdreamer/plugins/p...hp?articleid=41
  2. Those 2 pieces of plastic are there to prevent anything from puncturing the two drain sacks at either side of the hood. A piece of luggage puncturing one of these would lead to your luggage compartment being flooded every time the car got wet.
  3. Induction kits for the roadster are notoriously crap... Dont bother. As long as you're at dastek though, put a unichip on it. the driveability is much improved, with lots of extra low down torque, and a nice extra wedge of bhp up top. In terms of the amount of extra power made per £ spent, it is, by a huge margin, the single best performance mod you can make to the roadster...
  4. Yes they have... In fact several people have done it, but only one in the UK that I assisted in. The change is in fact remarkabley easy, and a there is a chap in the US who will sell you a kit of all the parts you need to put a celica engine and box into a mk3. The main changes are to the right side engine mount, the shifter input shaft, the exhaust, and the addition of 3 or 4 new wires to the loom to control the lift function on the valvegear. If all the parts are to hand, the conversion could easily be completed in a weekend, or a single day if you know what you're doing. Bar a single engine mount that needs to be changed, the engine fits straight in. The work to fit te old 3SGTE is a lot more involved, as it doesnt fit betwwen the chassis rails of the mk3. Rogue is currently working on just such a project. Another conversion that has been completed is the fitment of the Toyota V6. Of course, plenty of power can be liberated by just turbocharging the engine thats in there. Several owners have doubled their output, and monkeywrench racing are currnetly running a turbo'd mk3 with 340bhp at the wheels. They are looking to increase this to around 500bhp this year, but they are already running the car on the 1/4 mile strip in the mid 11 seconds.
  5. GSB

    Lambda Sensor

    Doesnt matter which way round you get the black wires, the heater will work either way.
  6. I found mine works quite well. Its certainly save my bacon more than once... Theres quite a lot of detectable scatter from lasers. You can quite easily be hit by a laser beam going through the windows of another car in front of you, or even the scatter from reflections from windows and moving vehicles, not to mention the fact that the beam is detectable from a very long distance. For the copper to get a reading from your car, he has to hit your car, and recieve back a decent quality reflection. All you have to do to detect him is recieve the merest flash of beam, weather its been aimed at your car or not. So you do have a chance, if only slight compared to the old radar detectors.
  7. Les, a can of expanding foam, a plastic bag, and a bit of leather and glue will see you with the perfect anti-!Removed! mount for your roadster. Just throw the lid down when you get to your destination.
  8. Wrong... Roadster wheels are 45mm offset.
  9. GSB


    Ebay... A friend of mine sells imports on there, no reserve, and a srtating price of 99p. It doesnt take long to get up to sensible price levels... Failing that, wait a short while, until the summer really gets going, and then try selling it... Theres no real major differences between the UK and J-Spec model, 99% of the parts are the same. The only real pain is that the OBDII diagnostics port doesnt seem to want to talk to UK code readers. Sadly thats not enought oconvince some people, as te car will cost more to insure, and will inevitably be worth less than a UK/ EU import... How much are you asking for it?
  10. Only in the same way that Jaguar is the same as Ford...
  11. Just to prevent confusion on this subject... When you go into 99% of tyre places, the service they offer as "tracking adjustment", actually covers only one aspect of the wheel alignment... Toe. However, in changing your springs, you've undoubtedly had to alter other settings in the suspension and wheel alignment. In particular, the camber. By doing a simple tracking adjustment you wont set or even measure the camber angle, which is just as important in terms of tyre wear, handling and directional stability. To cover the camber, caster, thrust angles and all the other settings that are so important to handling, you need to carry out a full four wheel alignment check, which is not the same thing as "Tracking". Hope this clears the fog a little. For more, try clicking here, Its just one of dozens of sites that attempt to clear the confusion of wheel aligmnent. Incidentally, I personally consider correct wheel alignment to be so critical to my cars performance, that I have a regular check made every 6 months... If you want your car to handle at its best, then its a vital maintenance job. Maybe not so often as me, but at least once!
  12. If the struts are anything like my MR2, then tracking wont be enough, as it only adjusts one aspect of the wheels geometry. You also need to check camber and other aspects like castor, thrust angle etc... You need a 4 wheel alighnment carried out. These are usually carried out with the aid of laser opticals and cost about £60- £70.
  13. It wont work. Or at least not in the configuration you have in mind. Due to the fact that the parasitic losses of the AC system far outwiegh the additional power it would generate, you will be slower. Also the system will be struggling to supply air when you need it, as the AC system will never be able to keep up with the demands of a 2 litre turbo engine at wide open throttle. Interestingly though there is potential in the idea, if modified slightly... Ford USA were playing with a new idea on the F150 Lightning concept pickup truck.. Not satisfied with 500bhp and 500ft/lbs, they were using the air con system to chill a small tank of refrigerant down to just below 0DegC. A light on the dash indicates when the tank is ready, and when you hit wide open throttle, it dumped the refrigerant through the intercooler, giving a 50bhp booost for about 30-40 seconds. The system would then take about 2 minutes to recharge. A slightly cheaper method woudl be this: Cryogenic Intake
  14. I had the knob on my MR2 replaced a couple of years ago for the same reason. No problem at all.
  15. Easy... Get your wire cutters out. You need to lower the steering column on its height adjuster, and then pull off the instrument hood - the bit with the speedo and rev counter. Just grasp the cover either side of the rev counter and pull. You then need to unscrew the instrument panel, theres one screw at top and 2 at bottom. This will then pull forward enough to get at the three electrical connectors. On the biggest connector, the white one on the right hand side going into the instrument panel, theres a red wire with a blue stripe. Its on the top row, 3 in from the left hand side as you look at the connector. Cut it, tape the free ends with insulating tape, and reinstall everything. No more bleeping. Of course there is now the chance that sitting at the lights in the not to distant future you will inadvertantly drop the clutch and end up going in the wrong direction.
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