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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by GSB

  1. Dont take the nuts out... Read the Head unit fitting guides on the ROC... http://www.mr2roc.org/subdreamer/plugins/p...hp?articleid=41
  2. Those 2 pieces of plastic are there to prevent anything from puncturing the two drain sacks at either side of the hood. A piece of luggage puncturing one of these would lead to your luggage compartment being flooded every time the car got wet.
  3. Induction kits for the roadster are notoriously crap... Dont bother. As long as you're at dastek though, put a unichip on it. the driveability is much improved, with lots of extra low down torque, and a nice extra wedge of bhp up top. In terms of the amount of extra power made per £ spent, it is, by a huge margin, the single best performance mod you can make to the roadster...
  4. Yes they have... In fact several people have done it, but only one in the UK that I assisted in. The change is in fact remarkabley easy, and a there is a chap in the US who will sell you a kit of all the parts you need to put a celica engine and box into a mk3. The main changes are to the right side engine mount, the shifter input shaft, the exhaust, and the addition of 3 or 4 new wires to the loom to control the lift function on the valvegear. If all the parts are to hand, the conversion could easily be completed in a weekend, or a single day if you know what you're doing. Bar a single engine mount that needs to be changed, the engine fits straight in. The work to fit te old 3SGTE is a lot more involved, as it doesnt fit betwwen the chassis rails of the mk3. Rogue is currently working on just such a project. Another conversion that has been completed is the fitment of the Toyota V6. Of course, plenty of power can be liberated by just turbocharging the engine thats in there. Several owners have doubled their output, and monkeywrench racing are currnetly running a turbo'd mk3 with 340bhp at the wheels. They are looking to increase this to around 500bhp this year, but they are already running the car on the 1/4 mile strip in the mid 11 seconds.
  5. GSB

    Lambda Sensor

    Doesnt matter which way round you get the black wires, the heater will work either way.
  6. I found mine works quite well. Its certainly save my bacon more than once... Theres quite a lot of detectable scatter from lasers. You can quite easily be hit by a laser beam going through the windows of another car in front of you, or even the scatter from reflections from windows and moving vehicles, not to mention the fact that the beam is detectable from a very long distance. For the copper to get a reading from your car, he has to hit your car, and recieve back a decent quality reflection. All you have to do to detect him is recieve the merest flash of beam, weather its been aimed at your car or not. So you do have a chance, if only slight compared to the old radar detectors.
  7. Les, a can of expanding foam, a plastic bag, and a bit of leather and glue will see you with the perfect anti-!Removed! mount for your roadster. Just throw the lid down when you get to your destination.
  8. Wrong... Roadster wheels are 45mm offset.
  9. GSB


    Ebay... A friend of mine sells imports on there, no reserve, and a srtating price of 99p. It doesnt take long to get up to sensible price levels... Failing that, wait a short while, until the summer really gets going, and then try selling it... Theres no real major differences between the UK and J-Spec model, 99% of the parts are the same. The only real pain is that the OBDII diagnostics port doesnt seem to want to talk to UK code readers. Sadly thats not enought oconvince some people, as te car will cost more to insure, and will inevitably be worth less than a UK/ EU import... How much are you asking for it?
  10. Only in the same way that Jaguar is the same as Ford...
  11. Just to prevent confusion on this subject... When you go into 99% of tyre places, the service they offer as "tracking adjustment", actually covers only one aspect of the wheel alignment... Toe. However, in changing your springs, you've undoubtedly had to alter other settings in the suspension and wheel alignment. In particular, the camber. By doing a simple tracking adjustment you wont set or even measure the camber angle, which is just as important in terms of tyre wear, handling and directional stability. To cover the camber, caster, thrust angles and all the other settings that are so important to handling, you need to carry out a full four wheel alignment check, which is not the same thing as "Tracking". Hope this clears the fog a little. For more, try clicking here, Its just one of dozens of sites that attempt to clear the confusion of wheel aligmnent. Incidentally, I personally consider correct wheel alignment to be so critical to my cars performance, that I have a regular check made every 6 months... If you want your car to handle at its best, then its a vital maintenance job. Maybe not so often as me, but at least once!
  12. If the struts are anything like my MR2, then tracking wont be enough, as it only adjusts one aspect of the wheels geometry. You also need to check camber and other aspects like castor, thrust angle etc... You need a 4 wheel alighnment carried out. These are usually carried out with the aid of laser opticals and cost about £60- £70.
  13. It wont work. Or at least not in the configuration you have in mind. Due to the fact that the parasitic losses of the AC system far outwiegh the additional power it would generate, you will be slower. Also the system will be struggling to supply air when you need it, as the AC system will never be able to keep up with the demands of a 2 litre turbo engine at wide open throttle. Interestingly though there is potential in the idea, if modified slightly... Ford USA were playing with a new idea on the F150 Lightning concept pickup truck.. Not satisfied with 500bhp and 500ft/lbs, they were using the air con system to chill a small tank of refrigerant down to just below 0DegC. A light on the dash indicates when the tank is ready, and when you hit wide open throttle, it dumped the refrigerant through the intercooler, giving a 50bhp booost for about 30-40 seconds. The system would then take about 2 minutes to recharge. A slightly cheaper method woudl be this: Cryogenic Intake
  14. I had the knob on my MR2 replaced a couple of years ago for the same reason. No problem at all.
  15. Easy... Get your wire cutters out. You need to lower the steering column on its height adjuster, and then pull off the instrument hood - the bit with the speedo and rev counter. Just grasp the cover either side of the rev counter and pull. You then need to unscrew the instrument panel, theres one screw at top and 2 at bottom. This will then pull forward enough to get at the three electrical connectors. On the biggest connector, the white one on the right hand side going into the instrument panel, theres a red wire with a blue stripe. Its on the top row, 3 in from the left hand side as you look at the connector. Cut it, tape the free ends with insulating tape, and reinstall everything. No more bleeping. Of course there is now the chance that sitting at the lights in the not to distant future you will inadvertantly drop the clutch and end up going in the wrong direction.
  16. The Mk3 has had 2 different wheels sizes in its time... The 2000 model had 15" wheels all round, the 2003 on model has 16's on the rear. On all models the rear rims are 1/2" wider than the fronts (6" Front, 6.5" rear) and have a 4x100mm PCD, the same as a Yaris. The thing that is not the same though, is the offset, which is 45mm on the MR2, as opposed to 35-38mm on the Yaris. You'd need to fit 8 - 10mm spacers to cancel this out, or the wheels are going to look a little daft. Incidentally, should the wheels on my car now go missing, its gonna be your door I'm knocking on at 3 in the morning! :D
  17. Gunmetal grey (sable) only came out on the facelifted versions in late 2002. this is good though as the gearbox gained a very useful extra cog and faster shifting at the same time. Loads of info is available on the forums at www.mr2roc.org which specailises in the mk3 model. Theres also a member there selling a 2003 SMT in black for a good price! ;)
  18. GSB


    Wolfrace Urban Racers... 17x7's with a 42mm offset. They were mine, but were a bit knackered as they'd already been on cars belonging to 2 other members of MR2ROC. I sold them onto Darth Paul, who them had them re-machined and re-finshed in a custom colour, before publishing These pictures just to make wish I'd kept them. :censor:
  19. GSB

    New Roadster

    Good to see the Mk2 boys taking the mk3 seriously for a change... Certainly would... The TTE compressor wont fit though, sue to the intake side of the engines close proximity to the bulkhead. You could cut the bulkhead, but you'd lose the use of the softtop. The 1.8 litre engine fitted to the CTS is not the same as the one in the MR2, the 2ZZ-GE looks similar to the 1ZZ-FE, but they are very different, and hardly any parts are actually interchangable. That said, its a fairly simple swap and goes into the roadster with little modification, and having been scared witless in just such a car, I can say that 190bhp is more than enough! Of course, some always want more, and 3 oeners on MR2ROC have just imported Hass turbo kits for thier Mk3's, the most extreme version giving about 300bhp at the wheels... Unichip does just that. I just organised a GB for 20 chips and harnesses for the roadsters. The one thats been dyno'd thus far returned 165bhp over a pre chip reading af 138bhp. Decent for a car wieghing less than a tonne. As for the lights, they changed them in 2003, although I have to say I prefer the earlier ones. The car does look better with a rear spoiler of some kind, although subtle is better here!
  20. Ok I stand corrected re: the selection of base maps, but surely these cant be for the 500bhp monsters that would nessesitate the fitment of the apexi over a piggyback type? They'll still surely need considerable tweaking to make them work properly? The point is that the main benefit of piggybacks is that 98% of the time they leave the stock ECU to get on with things as designed, all the development and rolling road time has been done for you. A complete change of ECU is a different matter, which is going to involve a lot more expense and effort to get right. Also the ECU's on more modern cars are far more integrated than those of only a few years ago. Reactive control over the idle air valve is still used, but the ECU itself controls much of the I/O of systems like the air-con. The functions that were taken care of by a seperate systems like air con computers, are now built into the ECU's. The air con is controlled and monitored from within the ECU, as as the Power steering sytsem. A data bus sends info to the instruments and other systems like the SMT gearbox computer, even the odometer reading is stored on board the main engine ECU. Things like transponder key identities and immobiliser circuits do nothing without going through the main ECU first. Its a lot of stuff to either circumvent or do without entirely. This, and the fact that the tuner has ultimate control over every single aspect of the engine without interference from the stock, road based ecu is what makes the apexi perfect for racing.
  21. Heres a fact to consider when you're looking at these different chip options: For a given amount of petrol, and a given amount of air, you will get a defined amount of energy released. It doesnt matter what computer you use to control the spark and injectors... With that in mind you can see that given a set map dictating boost, fuel, and ignition advance, you will gain no extra power from switching computers between Unichip, apexi, mines etc... That said, the stand alone apexi unit and the unichip do have other advantages unique to their types that have nothing to do with the peak power outputs. The apexi unit, as a stand alone ECU, has to mapped from scratch. You have to set it up for every rpm, every throttle position, every boost eventuality... The list goes on and on, but depending upon how thourough you are, you will be able to guarantee that given the right fuel, you will be making the maximum power at every throttle positon and engine speed. weather it be at 1500 rpm and 50% throttle, or screaming its pods off at 7000 rpm and 100% throttle. This is perfect for racing. Also when using special fuels, you are able to reach out to ignition advances that the stock ECU, plus the unichip, may not be able to muster. However, with the advantages comes lot of minus points. Not least of wich is that although (using normal pump fuel) you can acheive the same sort of peak power as with a Unichip (which can and will drive extra fuel rails, big turbos, nitrous, water inj, etc...) and probably more power at low throttle openings, you are getting rid of the stock ECU which has programs within that will start the car under almost any circumstances, and warm it up in a controlled manner with a special fuel and ignition map, you give up the stock ECU's ability to compensate for any altitude, a function programmed into it by toyota engineers over thousands of hours of tuning. You lose all the ECU's ancilliary functions, for example on the mk3 MR2, and nearly every other car built in recent years, the main engine ECU is home to aircon control, power steering control, engine immobilser and alarm supervision, on board diagnostics, data output to instruments, and a whole pile of other things that the stand alone computer either wont support, or will cost you a pile of money to adapt. Again, these are all things you dont need on a race car, but are pretty important in road appliactions. The Unichip and other piggyback ECU's let you retain all this functionality, yet give you full power at wide throttle settings, which is more than enough for most people. If you modify your engine way beyond the realms that the stock ECU was meant to work with though, and then ultimatley it will have to go, as it will be trying to run your mega engine like it'd run your nans corrolla.
  22. The unichip is flexible enough to allow you to add a turbo to an en engine that was never designed to have one, It'll control extra injectors, water injection, control vtec/vvt functions, igntion, fuelling, it'll take info from bolt on sensors, and it'll be set up by a guy who knows what he's doing... How much more flexibility do you need? You can even select different maps for different circumstances, either manually or automatically. Yes, e-manage will do the same thing, for a comparable price, and with similar results. Some may think that the ability to tune your engine yourself via a laptop without use of a rolling road is a good thing, but in my opinion the kind of people who think thats a good thing, are the sorts of people who tend to get big bills for engine rebuilds. I personally think its a bad idea. If you know what your doing, then you'll know the only way to reliably tune an engine is in a controlled environment, and on a dyno. If you dont know what your doing, then you need to keep your hands off. Also, I think I'm right in saying that the Unichip has something like 50,000 seperate mempry points for fuel data, and the same for ignition, giving the tuner very fine control over whats happening on the engine. Basically the tuner can tune fuel and ignition for every 25rpm through the rev range? Which I think is far more than the e-manage can er... manage. On the other hand I'm told that the e-manage is easier to set up to run bigger injectors. That said, the golden rule with any chip is that its only as good as the guy who tunes it...
  23. I had a new avensis T3 with sat nav for about a week last month (courtesy car), and I have to say that the Toyota sat nav is crap... In comparison to the Blaupunkt E1 in my car, it was slow, innacurate, and a pain in the ***** to use. On the plus side its digital traffic info were very good, and very quick to download, although the user interface to get to them is awful. But, by far the most infuriating thing about it was that to input a destination, or even change a route option, you had be at a dead stop... Go with something aftermarket, as you can get far better.
  24. Most cars use 4 wire o2 sensors these days. the additional wires are for a heater element that gets the zirconia sensing element up to its operating temperature a little quicker.
  25. Just trying to hammer home the grim reality that this aint no cosworth YB, its not going to be easy to extract more power with out really going to work on the internals. Put it this way. 150bhp would be a "nice" amount of power for the Yaris to play with, but thats going to need a specific output of 100bhp per litre, something only a handful of production cars actually manage, and usually only with the aid of stratospheric rev limits. It's not realistically achievable on the Yaris without resorting to Forced Induction.
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