Mooly

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Mooly last won the day on September 28 2019

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About Mooly

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mr
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. Although the battery may well be past its best at this age you don't actually say why you think its failing.
  2. I'm not sure heavier oil would improve things tbh, and I'm speaking from actually using 5W30 Castrol. I do genuinely believe the engine has had a 'smoothness' to it for these last 12 months I've been using this oil, and fuel consumption is not noticeably worse, but the oil consumption is worse this year by some margin. Emissions tests have never shown any hint of a problem so far, everything is as low as can be on the printouts.
  3. We had front discs and pads replaced by a dealer on our old Corolla some years ago. It was absolutely fine for several weeks including a holiday in the Isle of Man which saw some pretty heavy brake action (70MPH roads and steep steep descents). All good. Came off the ferry and a couple of miles in and the pedal went nearly to the floor. Next application was OK, then same again. Lightly touching the pedal first and then applying the brakes saw them work each time. The dealer looked at it the next day and apologised and said the problem was in fact residual air in the system and that the brakes could in some circumstances be extremely difficult to bleed correctly sometimes. That was seven years ago and its been trouble free since.
  4. A Corsa that lives on our avenue used to always have four very flat looking tyres and the owner said they all deflated at about the same rate and would do so in just 3 or 4 days. They were alloys and the official diagnosis had been that they were porous. I think he tried some kind of sealer (done by a tyre outfit) but they were always troublesome.
  5. I think the figure of 1L/1000km has been in the handbook of every car I've ever had, Fords, Vauxhalls, Datsun, Audi and of course Toyota. Its just some ancient industry recognised figure that seems to be rolled out to cover every engine.
  6. On two occasions over the last few days (when I remembered) I have switched off the engine at traffic lights, just the once. Up to the point of switching off the stop/start was non operational. Each time after doing this single restart it has cut in from that point onwards for the rest of the journey. That's more than coincidence and to me blows the theory of the system following some complicated set of algorithms. To me its just buggy and poorly implemented firmware/software.
  7. I've used around 2.5 litres of oil in 6000 miles this last 12 months. Mileage is 64k. Three years ago a 1 litre top-up bottle would have just about kept things above the minimum mark over the same mileage, so things have suddenly got worse very quickly. Before that and I didn't add oil at all between services. Car runs better than ever though and I like to think that the poor sealing of the oil control rings is actually giving less friction and more mpg/performance. Ha! I could probably even switch to a two year service regime as the engine is now continually supplied with fresh oil. And again Ha, Ha!
  8. From memory they are simply time accumulations of the total time the engine has been stopped in ECO mode for one of the values while the other shows time in ECO mode just for the current journey. So you might eventually see several hours clocked up on one and just a few minutes on the other. You can reset them yourself as far as I recall just by holding the button in. They also all reset to zero if for example you disconnect the battery and presumably with whatever reset Toyota did. Some older threads from when mine was nearly new: https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/109437-stopstart-technology-in-practice-and-first-mpg-check/?tab=comments#comment-993313 https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/111738-unexplained-133-stop-start-behaviour-anyone-else-notice-this/?tab=comments#comment-1011234 https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/186724-stop-start/?do=findComment&comment=1491474
  9. I've commented on the Stop/Start several times (2010 Auris) and only recently noticed something that seems illogical... and yet it happens. I can drive for 20, 30, 40 minutes... sometimes an hour and not once does it cut in. However I've noticed several times that if I turn the key off myself at junctions etc and restart it manually then the stop start seems to cut in and start working as expected a short while later. It's illogical because what I am doing can only drain the battery more, and yet the Stop/Start decides its OK to cut in. None of the other outside or external factors change. I gave up wondering a long time ago. Its a flawed system that only has purpose in controlled testing (emissions ratings) and is pretty much worthless in real life situations.
  10. Mooly

    airbag light

    Given that this is a 12 year old car and that the problem only occurred 2 days after major work was done I wouldn't be suspecting any electronic components or modules at this stage... far far more likely to be something simple and physical and related to the work that had been done. Swapping parts in hope can I'm afraid introduce more problems. Why not return it to the garage that swapped the rack and see what they say.
  11. Well good luck whatever you decide and remember there are plenty out there so don't jump at the first you see.
  12. Sorry to hear that although it was pretty much what was expected unfortunately... Good luck with whatever you replace it with.
  13. If the contact is bent then the plug sustained physical damage... which may in turn have been caused by the insulator disintegrating... and that would likely cause damage internally to the valves/piston. The fact you have replaced the plug and coil and get a fault related to an ignition issue suggests maybe more than one thing is going on. Have you tried the original coil pack with a new plug just for interest? on the improbable case the replacement coil pack is faulty. There would be no reason to even suspect the original coil pack based on the original symptoms. I suppose its possible the OBD registers a problem if the plug is trying to fire when there is no compression (suggesting mechanical damage) because the spark will jump more easily in that low compression condition and that might be recorded as a fault. On balance I would say you may well have a compression problem.
  14. Mooly

    Instrument Cluster

    This problem isn't unknown... The lights are actually LED's rather than bulbs and require the use of some delicate soldering skills to replace as they are what are termed SMD (surface mount devices). Although the parts themselves cost buttons from electronic suppliers, a dealer would not repair this to component level and would fit a whole new panel. There should be some threads around here showing this...
  15. The AC not working will be a separate issue to the powder which is purely a surface defect of the evaporator and as such there is no reason to suspect a failed evaporator at this stage for the non functional AC.