Mooly

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Mooly last won the day on September 29 2018

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About Mooly

  • Rank
    Guru Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mr
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. Pleased to hear you have sorted the problem. As to the 0.5 amp drain... well I'll bet there isn't a real issue there and that its something like a courtesy light remaining on while you were testing. It would be very unusual to have another unrelated issue. Excellent, well done.
  2. Radio 4 on Tuesday 14th May at 12:18pm ran a program called 'What's it like to buy and run an Electric Car'. The program is available on the BBC site to listen to: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m00050pv
  3. 16 volts is definitely to high and will result in gassing of the cells (and possible venting of electrolyte which could be what are are seeing). The voltage on an older car with non ECU managed charging may briefly approach 15 volts (or even a little more) on a very cold winter start but should then reduce over a minute or so to no more than around 14.8. When very hot the charging voltage can be around 13.5. There may not seem much difference between all those voltages but they make a massive difference to how the battery behaves. The alternator should maintain the voltage to at least 13 volts or more under normal loading at idle (lights, wipers etc). When the car is left locked the current draw should be minimal, perhaps no more than 10 to 20 milliamps. Remember you should be able to leave a fully charged battery on the car for several weeks and still have it start first time.
  4. Have you tried disconnecting the new battery for a while? Doing this will initialise the electronics (a reset) and may correct any odd behaviour. Its certainly worth doing imo. If you do this then just disconnect the negative terminal and leave it for 10 to 15 minutes. When you reconnect, push the terminal cleanly and firmly all the way down the battery post and don't over-tighten the clamp.
  5. Asda currently have the Stop/Start Magnetec 5W30 for £24 Having used 5W30 Magnetec at my last service back in February I'm still feeling the engine has an overall smoothness (an indefinable something) that that it didn't have before. I'm also acutely aware when saying this of something that in my profession (electronics) that we call 'Experimenter Expectation' where someone changes something and immediately reports some profound change that defies logic, however if put to a blind test would not be discernible by that person. I feel the change with going to a 5W30 grade is subtle but that the change has stood the test of time... it consistently has this 'feel good' factor. MPG has to be worse but does not seem noticeably so... perhaps a percentage point or less I would say.
  6. When I used to do a 40 mile a day commute on mostly A roads and motorway I became a big fan of Rain-X and similar products. In even torrential rain on a motorway you just turned the wipers off and the view was amazing, far clearer than a normal screen and wipers. If you find it smeary then you are not applying it correctly. The days of the commute are over and my Auris (Feb 2010) is still on the original blades and rubbers all around. Mileage 60k.
  7. That's quite an interesting way of setting things out Frosty. Carina II 1.6GL (1989). No mechanical faults. This was dads car. Carina II 1.6XL (1990) Clutch and flywheel replaced in first year. Known issue following change to asbestos free linings. Central locking switch/motor drivers door replaced under warranty. Carina E 1.6GL (1994) Central locking fault repaired under warranty. Instrument cluster replaced under warranty (gauges and rev counter would fall to zero). Corolla TSport (2002) Weeping front shock absorber at around four years old. Only 3 yr warranty back then. No other faults in 8 years. Corolla 1.4 4 door (2003). This one was built in Turkey. Sticking brake caliper at 14 years old. We still have the car. Auris 1.33 (2010) no faults.
  8. I was just working out my oil consumption this morning. Around 1400 miles covered since last service (which this time was done by an independent) and where I specified that I wanted 5W-30 using, as much as anything to see if it had any impact on oil usage. Castrol Magnetec full synthetic was used and I see its now around half way between min and max. I've had to add oil for the last 3 years or so, usually with a litre just about covering my annual mileage. Much of this 1400 miles has been at fairly high speed however. On balance I would say the 5W 30 has made no difference consumption wise, but I still feel it runs more smoothly with this compared to the 0W 20. That's a lasting impression since it was serviced. Mileage just turned 60k this week.
  9. I had my T Sport from new and kept it 8 yrs and around 72k. Great fun but found it 'tiring' rev wise on the motorway, it really needed a much higher 6th gear. I think the ratios were chosen to get performance on paper, something like being able to keep it in lift in all gears if you took it right up to the rev limiter before changing up a gear. MPG was pretty good considering and I recall low 40's throughout my time with it. Only problem I had that needed money spending was a weeping front shock absorber.
  10. Same here. Cold starting seems no different and the stop/start 'restarts' are to quick to even begin to time... instant, well under 1 sec. Interesting. I know the manufacturer should have done all the homework and ensured that specified viscosity offers the protection required under all conditions and yet I'd bet the handbook still says something like 'may not be the most suitable under all conditions... refer to dealer'. The reason for the light viscosities as we know is for economy and emissions, not ultimate longevity outside the warranty period. That's not to say there will be any issues, its simply saying its not the prime reason for the choice, these other risks factors being lower down the weighting scale.
  11. I've no idea on that. The seller of the replacement module is the one to advise on that I'm afraid.
  12. Now those kind of figures sound totally believable to me. This year I specified that I wanted 5W30 oil using rather then than 0W20, in part due to some oil consumption now that the mileage is around 60k. That was two months ago and I certainly couldn't say economy seems any different on a day to day basis. Although it may be wishful thinking, I'm struck by how smooth the engine feels day in day out. One of those indefinable things maybe, but over an extended period it feels to be the case.
  13. I wouldn't like to say on whether it would be suitable or not. The immobilser chip (thats the unpowered one embeded in the plastic of the key) would need programming to allow it to talk to the cars ECU and allow it to start. The remote locking chip would also need programming to be able to talk to and unlock the doors. A lot of if's and but's there to me.
  14. Very little you can do from a diy perspective. Powering the board from an external 3 volt supply and monitoring the current draw would be next. When not actively transmitting the current draw should be essentially zero, certainly less than a couple of microamps.
  15. The board just clips into place. A little gentle prising with a tiny jewellers screwdriver should release it.