Mooly

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Mooly last won the day on September 29 2018

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About Mooly

  • Rank
    Guru Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mr
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. This post and some follow ups of mine might be of interest to some. Actual battery voltages in use. Modern AGM (Absorbent Glass Matt) types should not necessarily see a particularly high resting voltage as that implies the concentration of acid is high, higher than might be desirable for a long life.
  2. Hissing and gurgling noises from the heater matrix can be associated with head gasket failure. Sloshing noises (more noticeable braking suddenly at very low speed) can simply be a little trapped air in the matrix and can be caused by nothing more serious than a little used vehicle needing a good run up to temperature and some high revs. I've also a suspicion that suddenly and vigorously squeezing the radiator hoses can introduce air into the system causing this.
  3. As Frosty says, more than one marque. In this case its Hyundai.
  4. I've mixed thoughts on Vantage (Lancashire) having used them from the outset. They got too big and impersonal imo, and my local Vantage then also became a multi-franchise. Experiences of service have varied over the years although I was less than impressed when my own car was returned some years back with a lot of scuff marks around the front bumper corner. I suspect that was caused by dragging a gritty and wet hose around the front in the car park. Air bag recall work on our Corolla left the air bag warning light permanently on. How could they sign the work off and not check the system had been reset? Once around the car park and then immediately back to have it put right. The 'which oil did you use' question always left me wondering. On the one hand I was told (on more than one occasion) that only 0-20 was ever to be used and yet paper work often had 5-30 written on it. So I never really knew for sure what went in there. Last time a total computer failure left them unable to do any service work or MOT's and that meant my car hadn't even had work started until around 2pm, despite being there for a first booking at 8:30am. Have to say they were very good over that and ran me home (which was around 35 miles round trip). For the first time this year (well last year actually if you count our ancient Corolla) I used a local independent (Bosch Service Centre) and couldn't be more pleased. Rang up on a Monday and they offered to do the service and MOT next day. Even more unexpected was the free offer of a loan car... a new Kia Picanto. Having discussed 'oil issues' and bearing in mind the car is now 9yrs old and with 60k I said I would be happy to try (my preference) switching for certain to 5-30. Castrol Magnetec was used and so far its running better than ever. I'm not sure whether mpg has suffered noticeably, my first reaction was 'maybe' a percentage point or so but with slightly warmer conditions the trip computer is back to around 52mpg. It was around 4 weeks ago this service was done and so it will be interesting to see.
  5. Taking what you did at face value reveals a fatal flaw in that you performed two remedial actions and now don't know which improved matters. Was it: or was it: that had the desired effect?
  6. Mooly

    Radio

    Non of the Toyotas we have owned have had any kind of coding on the original factory fit radio. Is it an original fitment that the car was supplied with?
  7. Mooly

    Whine from Auris

    That unfortunately sounds like the turbo on the way out. The big clue is you hearing it spin down after stopping the engine.
  8. Some years ago I had a 'noise' on start up. If you revved the engine slightly I seem to recall it went. I found the cause by complete accident when I gave a front tyre a whack with my hand. It rattled, not the tyre but the bonnet. The cause was one of the rubber bump stops (those rubber cushions you see when lifting the bonnet) needing a fraction of turn to contact the bonnet. When cold the bonnet wasn't quite resting on the stop, when hot expansion must have allowed contact.
  9. 1/ Measure the resting voltage (engine not running) across the battery. It should be around 12.4v or higher. 2/ See how the voltage holds up when you turn the headlights on. It should not dip much below the voltage you measure above and it should hold at that voltage as you leave the lights on. A healthy 60Ah battery that is full charged should run headlights for 5 hours or more and so a few minutes test should be easily coped with. 3/ Start the engine and measure the battery voltage again. It should be above 14 volts if the engine is cold, typically around 14.5v. Now switch the headlights on again. The voltage should hold up above 13 volts at idle and be back to 14.5v as soon as the revs increase. If the charging voltage is OK then the alternator is working OK. If the voltage of the battery at rest (engine not running) falls away as you put the lights on then the battery is suspect. The above voltages aren't hard and fast rules but typical of normal operating conditions.
  10. Could be the seat belt system. I recall that the warning becomes ever more insistent as you carry on driving. A bottle is probably marginal weight for triggering the system. Just see if it does it again with nothing on the seat.
  11. Just looked at our old Corolla and that is displaying 17mph. Its been reset within the last couple of fill ups.
  12. Its always worth disconnecting the battery (car) to eliminate any odd gremlins and lockups when confronted by weird electronic issues. It had to be done, even if only to eliminate that possibility.
  13. Short of hacking the system (specialist ECU reprogramming) I would say no. It is how it is in order to maximise efficiency and minimise emissions. The fly by wire throttle can feel remote and distant compared to older cars that had a direct throttle linkage.
  14. Mooly

    Stop start

    I guess so... Had a further play today. I haven't a suitable modern battery charger, only an old one from over 35 years ago but I do have current limited stabilised power supplies and so I set one of these to 14.4 volts and looked at what happened. I was surprised to see the battery voltage rise very quickly to this value implying that it was essentially in a fair state of charge. The current fell to around 400 milliamps after only 5 minutes . I left this on for a couple of hours before driving off. Now 400ma over two hours is less than 1Ah put back and yet the starter was noticeably more lively PLUS the Stop/ Start worked every time today. I put it on a similar charge again for a couple of hours this afternoon. I also noticed something else. Now when the Stop/Start restarts, the alternator output is held low (12.5v) for a few seconds. Can't say I had noticed that aspect of behaviour before but suspect it is to reduce loading on the engine following a restart and when you may want to set off quickly. All very interesting though.
  15. Mooly

    Stop start

    Complicated with a lot of things monitored I can understand, it is that it is not consistent that gets me. Today was another day of 60 minutes driving where it didn't cut in once.