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Mooly last won the day on July 16

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About Mooly

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    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
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  1. I had loan of a fairly new Kia Picanto while my Auris was being serviced and the turning circle seemed very small by comparison. For what it was, it was actually a great little car.
  2. And the original:
  3. Finally found the old thread I kept think back to although I still don't think your problem is chain related:
  4. 3-4 hours sounds about right for all of that. The A/C system will be discharged and the refrigerant recovered for recycling, then the system is pumped down to a vacuum to remove all traces of moisture (as pressure is reduced any water boils at lower temperatures... room temperature and below). Finally the system will be refilled with the correct weight of refrigerant together with a little oil to replace the very small amount that will have carried out along with the old gas. Then your good to go 🙂
  5. Your Clio was certainly a shining example of what can achieved. I've had the my A/C recharged twice, once at 4yrs and once at 8yrs, not because of issues but just as preventative maintenance. I felt after the first recharge that it was genuinely better and then didn't really notice any difference after the second. Like you I keep it on 24/7 I suppose we should all check the vent temperatures on our new and recently regassed cars and then keep that as a baseline to see if deterioration has occurred at any future point in time.
  6. Did you scroll down the page? £59 is for an 'air con service', £39 for just a regas. Personally I would be inclined to get it done because if it is slightly low on charge then it will only get even lower over the next 12 months. Published figures for 'natural' leakage for R134a A/C systems seem to vary from 5% to 20% annually so even at the lower end of that scale the loss adds up significantly over time.
  7. I would imagine there is a relay and that it would be tied in to the ECU and immobiliser (for example to cut the pump and engine in the event of an accident if the air bags were triggered etc) but it is to much of a coincidence that there would be a deep seated issue in that area. Logic says the problem is related to the work carried out in some way.
  8. My line of thinking would be this... The car was otherwise all OK until this tank issue arose. You swapped the tank and had trouble filling it and so that suggests some physical issue somewhere. The car already had fuel in it and now it won't start as seemingly the pump isn't receiving power. Everything has to be related to the either the work done or some unseen damage that occurred running over the obstruction. I would certainly try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, not that that is going to fix any underlying issue but purely as way to be sure everything is back to a 'reset' state and then see if anything changes.
  9. Mooly

    Stop/start Problem

    I would check the security of the battery cables/terminals as a first step. Also check any main earthing points that the thick battery negative lead goes to. Next check the battery voltage at rest (engine not running) and see if it holds up OK with your headlights turned on. The voltage shouldn't dip much below around 11.7 volts, even after a few minutes. I'm just wondering if the battery suffered some kind 'internal issue' because modern batteries can fail suddenly and without warning although a battery that is otherwise OK and suffered some kind of internal short would generate lots heat... so I'm a bit dubious on that but battery issues are a possible. Given that the engine management light came on (and we don't know why for sure) I would reset the ECU by disconnecting that battery negative terminal for 10 minutes or so. When you reconnect do it smartly pushing the clamp all the way down the terminal post. Retighten but do not overtighten. Start the car and let it idle for a couple of minutes... it may seem all over the place with the revs as the ECU relearns basic input values from all the sensors. Then take it for a drive.
  10. I would have thought a slipping chain would be destructive, a bit like like a cam belt jumping a few teeth. I suppose a noisy chain/tensioner is a possibility if you can locate the sound to that area, although I've no idea how big a job it is on this engine.
  11. Is it anything like this... current Yaris thread, same engine:
  12. £69 for an R134a regas sounds very expensive to me. Its up to you but don't be pressured into having a 'full aircon service' if you feel you don't want or need that. Such a 'service' may include use of a sanitiser on the evaporator (those aerosol do-dahs you set off inside the car with the AC on recirculate to fumigate everything). A basic regas should cost half that figure... in fact Vantage Toyota list just such a service for just under £40.
  13. Modern fuel injectors 'tick' as each one fires and that can sound quite loud at idle but its a different sort of noise to valve train problems.
  14. Interesting to see 'sight glass' mentioned on those images of the stickers. I thought they disappeared back in the the days of R12, and very useful they were in diagnosing problems. Very little oil is added during a regas as most of the oil in the system resides and remains in the compressor... at least in conventional compressors... and its a rather precisely imprecise science to add about the right amount back to the system. A/C specialists know what to do and get it right so don't worry.
  15. I wouldn't like to advise on that tbh as there can be other reasons other than the lifters. It was always said many years ago that hydraulic tappets can see the oil drain from them over time and so be initially noisy at start up, particularly if the car has stood a fair while... and in that case no cause for concern. One thought, and I don't know if this applies here is the old question of non original oil filters and non return valves that stop oil draining back to the sump. The 1.33L as far as I know uses a replaceable element rather than a traditional spin on cartridge that would have such a valve fitted.