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Mooly last won the day on September 28 2019

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About Mooly

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    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
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  1. All I'll say on battery life is that my Auris battery is over 10yrs old now and still good. I know its good because I have done a sustained current draw test by turning on hradlights, foglights and heated window as well as operating all the windows. I've left it with lights and heated window on for some cosiderable time as a test while monitoring the voltage. All good. The battery on our old 2003 Corolla was replaced at around 10 years old because of a suspicion of a leak. The replacement Toyota battery is fine and still fitted. Although it has done a lot more mileage this last 6 months, the previous two or three years saw it doing less than a 1000 in a year and sometimes it stood for two weeks in winter without being started, The battery never gave any concern at all.
  2. If the battery voltage falls to low then a point will be reached where the ECU (the engine management system) does what is effectively a 'global reset'... a bit like pulling the mains plug out on a piece of equipment and then reconnecting. When this happens the engine needs to relearn all the optimal parameters for correct running which is all done automatically but does take a little time. This also happens when you replace the battery. Ideally and following a reset you should do a cold start (engine cold) and let it idle for two or three minutes and then just drive for a decent distance in mixed speed conditions. It may take a couple of days to get fully 'optimised' so that it is idling correctly. If your battery is suspect then it needs checking/replacing but first check that the terminals are tight and the clamps not loose. A good battery should hold decent charge even with relatively little actual use (driving).
  3. Mine is burning oil at around 2.5 to 3 litres per 6.5k miles currently although fortunately no other issues at this time. The OP mentions the stop/start not working. Mine has been pretty much that way for several years, sometimes (usually in warmer weather) it will have a run of working and then stop again for days at a time. I noticed that it always works (to begin with) if I first give the battery a small trickle charge before initially starting and that it also always works for a few times in a journey if I manually stop and restart the engine at times when the stop start should cut in. Its not faulty faulty (as in hardware fault) but just flawed design and bad software/firmware implementation. I'm still on the original battery. The oil consumption I've given up all hope on, all I do now is occasionally extend the revs when I get the chance often taking the revs right up to jut below where the limiter would cut in. I'm using 5W/30 oil and tbh it drives better than ever and MPG is no worse.
  4. Have a read at this post of mine and posts I made following this:
  5. Providing the car is standard... as in no after market electronics added that may or may not draw current when supposedly off... then it should be able to be left for several weeks 'as a one off' before any concerns over starting would apply. If the car is standard then it could be the battery is failing. Jump starting will get you going but it takes many hours of charging at the correct voltage to bring a battery back to full charge... or many hours driving. An hours driving might put back 40% of the charge, but it may take another 5 hours to bring that to 70% and another 20 or more to get to 90%+. A rough and ready test of a charged battery can be made by switching headlights and heated window on with the engine not running. A new battery should support that load for quite some time, at least 60 to 90 minutes. We would never try that on an old battery but it should certainly be happy for 10 minutes or so and still then start the car normally. If the battery makes any fizzing, bubbling or hissing noise when discharging like that then its definitely faulty.
  6. Although the battery may well be past its best at this age you don't actually say why you think its failing.
  7. I'm not sure heavier oil would improve things tbh, and I'm speaking from actually using 5W30 Castrol. I do genuinely believe the engine has had a 'smoothness' to it for these last 12 months I've been using this oil, and fuel consumption is not noticeably worse, but the oil consumption is worse this year by some margin. Emissions tests have never shown any hint of a problem so far, everything is as low as can be on the printouts.
  8. We had front discs and pads replaced by a dealer on our old Corolla some years ago. It was absolutely fine for several weeks including a holiday in the Isle of Man which saw some pretty heavy brake action (70MPH roads and steep steep descents). All good. Came off the ferry and a couple of miles in and the pedal went nearly to the floor. Next application was OK, then same again. Lightly touching the pedal first and then applying the brakes saw them work each time. The dealer looked at it the next day and apologised and said the problem was in fact residual air in the system and that the brakes could in some circumstances be extremely difficult to bleed correctly sometimes. That was seven years ago and its been trouble free since.
  9. A Corsa that lives on our avenue used to always have four very flat looking tyres and the owner said they all deflated at about the same rate and would do so in just 3 or 4 days. They were alloys and the official diagnosis had been that they were porous. I think he tried some kind of sealer (done by a tyre outfit) but they were always troublesome.
  10. I think the figure of 1L/1000km has been in the handbook of every car I've ever had, Fords, Vauxhalls, Datsun, Audi and of course Toyota. Its just some ancient industry recognised figure that seems to be rolled out to cover every engine.
  11. On two occasions over the last few days (when I remembered) I have switched off the engine at traffic lights, just the once. Up to the point of switching off the stop/start was non operational. Each time after doing this single restart it has cut in from that point onwards for the rest of the journey. That's more than coincidence and to me blows the theory of the system following some complicated set of algorithms. To me its just buggy and poorly implemented firmware/software.
  12. I've used around 2.5 litres of oil in 6000 miles this last 12 months. Mileage is 64k. Three years ago a 1 litre top-up bottle would have just about kept things above the minimum mark over the same mileage, so things have suddenly got worse very quickly. Before that and I didn't add oil at all between services. Car runs better than ever though and I like to think that the poor sealing of the oil control rings is actually giving less friction and more mpg/performance. Ha! I could probably even switch to a two year service regime as the engine is now continually supplied with fresh oil. And again Ha, Ha!
  13. From memory they are simply time accumulations of the total time the engine has been stopped in ECO mode for one of the values while the other shows time in ECO mode just for the current journey. So you might eventually see several hours clocked up on one and just a few minutes on the other. You can reset them yourself as far as I recall just by holding the button in. They also all reset to zero if for example you disconnect the battery and presumably with whatever reset Toyota did. Some older threads from when mine was nearly new:
  14. I've commented on the Stop/Start several times (2010 Auris) and only recently noticed something that seems illogical... and yet it happens. I can drive for 20, 30, 40 minutes... sometimes an hour and not once does it cut in. However I've noticed several times that if I turn the key off myself at junctions etc and restart it manually then the stop start seems to cut in and start working as expected a short while later. It's illogical because what I am doing can only drain the battery more, and yet the Stop/Start decides its OK to cut in. None of the other outside or external factors change. I gave up wondering a long time ago. Its a flawed system that only has purpose in controlled testing (emissions ratings) and is pretty much worthless in real life situations.
  15. Mooly

    airbag light

    Given that this is a 12 year old car and that the problem only occurred 2 days after major work was done I wouldn't be suspecting any electronic components or modules at this stage... far far more likely to be something simple and physical and related to the work that had been done. Swapping parts in hope can I'm afraid introduce more problems. Why not return it to the garage that swapped the rack and see what they say.