Mooly

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Mooly last won the day on September 28

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About Mooly

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  • First Name
    Mr
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. Thick floormat stopping clutch pedal being depressed fully?... I don't think we know what engine this is or whether auto/manual.
  2. Pleased to hear a new module has fixed the problem for you.
  3. Isn't this the infamous 'Eco run converter module' fault. There have been a few posts about this over the last few years, unfortunately the forums search facility doesn't turn them up for me. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/189616-dash-remains-illuminated-after-ignition-off-check-engine-warning/
  4. Mooly

    a/c confusion

    Certainly that is the case on some vehicles although the actual figure may vary a little. My theory breaks down at this point... if the evaporator temperature is held at (say) 4 degrees C which would be a reasonable value for cooling the incoming air, and it is held at that temperature by the physical laws relating pressure/temperature of the refrigerant gas, then would it (the evaporator) heat the air once the incoming temperature dropped below that value. I'm not sure on that one. Maybe the lower ambient cut off is actually related to protecting the system from lubrication issues rather than than the evaporator freezing up... driving into a low ambient air temperature would take the condensor to very low temperature levels, possible compromising the lubrication properties of the oil.
  5. That looks like a problem with the back lighting of the panel and as such is not really DIY fixable unless you are a skilled electronics tech. It could be a bad connection (on a soldered component or LED) or an intermittently failing LED.
  6. I think the above statement lies at the root of the problem. The factory fit system integrates at many levels with the vehicles engine management system (ECU) so that the engine automatically compensates for the additional the load the compressor causes. A different system will almost certainly not signal the ECU to alter fuelling and idle speed and the result is that you experience these issues. That is what I think is happening here.
  7. The fact all these independent systems fail shows that it is a supply issue. That I am surprised at because it suggests there is a secondary battery and sounder somewhere. Has a 3rd party alarm/immobiliser been fitted in the past? As far as I know (and remember from our old Carina E) there was nothing like that fitted. The immobiliser and alarm were basic standard factory fitted features.
  8. No lights points to a basic bad connection somewhere. Forget immobilisers and ECU's, diagnose why the lights fail to work when the fault occurs. Begin by measuring the battery voltage at the battery terminals under fault conditions i.e with the lights 'on' but not lit. If the voltage directly across the battery terminals did by chance fall very low at this point then the battery is intermittently faulty. Unlikely scenario but checking the battery voltage at source under load is the very first step. If that is OK then measure the voltage from battery negative to a bare metal point on the engine/chassis such as the gearbox, anywhere where there is bright metal and you can get a good connection. Do the same to the bodywork. You should NO voltage under these conditions (a few tens of millivolts at most). If you see significant voltage then you have a bad earth somewhere. Checking the positive feed is not as easy and you would probably need an auto electrician to identify suitable points to test although you might locate permanent 12 volt points within the fusebox. Measuring from battery POSITIVE this time to these points should see NO voltage. If you get voltage under fault conditions then there is a high resistance (bad connection) in the positive feed. 12.1 volts resting battery voltage is perfectly fine... although many will say it is to low it is not and is typical of an older battery at rest. There is no cause for concern there.
  9. The fact it is intermittent again points to some poor connection issue or perhaps a faulty/intermittent relay. The whine may be normal, obviously it depends how loud it is and where it comes from but I have recollections of hearing similar when we had a Carina E many years ago. I also hear a very faint similar type noise on my Auris if I really really listen hard. I suspect your best course of action is going to have this diagnosed by an auto electrician but you need to clearly document what does and doesn't happen. For example if you turn the headlights on when it is failing to start, do the lights stay bright or do they dim/go out. Those are the big sorts of clues.
  10. I can't imagine for one moment that the clock is in any way tied into the immobiliser. Everything dead suggests a major supply problem that could be as simple as a bad main earth or battery connection. The headlights should always be flash-able... a good test.
  11. I wouldn't foresee any issues on a standard car (no aftermarket alarms etc) with a battery swap. As others have said, negative first when disconnecting, however negative last when reconnecting. Personally I wouldn't worry over trying to retain settings... and its actually the perfect opportunity to allow all the circuitry to reset to default values (ECU etc) and relearn from scratch. You may well feel the car drives 'better' for doing this, just allow the engine to idle for a couple of minutes before driving off for the first time while it relearns the base values... it may well idle a little unevenly for a few moments at first until it has re learnt these parameters.
  12. This is a very old thread, however for anyone curious the plugs on my 1.33L also have oil present: https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/186870-133l-1nr-fe-engine-current-spark-plug-recommendation/?tab=comments#comment-1492618
  13. I'd say almost certainly impact damage. Could anyone have been throwing stones or anything have fallen from a roof? Side and rear glass shatters instantly into zillions of very tiny pieces, totally different to a front screen which is laminated.
  14. Tyres after 8.5k and new pads at 13.5k. Something sounds wrong there... I'm on 63k and had four tyres fitted at around 42k. I've never worn a set of brake pads out on any car I've owned.
  15. I think they are very easy to replace (couple of screws and a connector) but what I don't know is whether they are 'plug and play' or whether any calibration is needed. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23407/how-to-trigger-an-idle-throttle-position-re-learn