Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Mooly last won the day on September 28 2019

Mooly had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

188 Excellent

About Mooly

  • Rank
    Top Rank Poster!

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

8,887 profile views
  1. Well mine was a 2010 model, the first of the face lifted ones that appeared mid production and it had a build date of Feb 2010. It wasn't fixed then.
  2. I didn't know the 1.33L was available in 2019 tbh but that applied to the UK. I would image it had been fixed 9 years down the line.
  3. I have a 1.33L (2010) and actually feel that all round it is the best car I have owned. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/197661-new-battery-after-11-years-73k-all-in-all-the-best-car-i-have-owned/ The one big issue of the 1.33L can be excessive oil consumption... not in itself a problem as long as you are aware of it should it happen to use much. You don't want it to run low of course. I believe some owners had issues with water entering the spare tyre well, the cause being some 'flaps' that vent to the outside and that are located behind the rear bumper. So worth
  4. If you want a quick and dirty test of whether there is at least some pressure in the system then just blip the 'low side' service port valve (it is a bit like a tyre valve). Do this with the engine OFF. Be aware that any refrigerant can and will cause freezer burns if you are not careful. Use a blunt plastic instrument to keep fingers away from the cold. You only need blip it for a fraction of a second like giving a quick squirt of an aerosol can. It will tell you if there is at least some refrigerant present. If nothing at all comes out then you have lost all refrigerant and possibl
  5. I was going to suggest low refrigerant as a possible cause, particularly as you mention not using it much. I also wonder if the 'seized' alternator was actually the alternator being very hard to turn due a low state of battery charge (high current draw from the alternator makes it much harder to physically turn). You need proper manifold gauges to check pressures in the A/C system.
  6. Oh dear... if you suspect lack of pressure then that is either the pump or a blockage somewhere. Once the 'easy' things have been tried it all gets a bit more difficult diagnosing it at a distance. If you can locate a join in the hose to the nozzle you could disconnect the pipe and try and make a judgement call on what the flow out of the open pipe was like. You could also try blowing through the nozzle end of the pipe to see if that did any good. Beyond that and if you are sure the nozzle is OK and that the flow to the nozzle is poor then its probably going to mean a new pump. There
  7. That's a bit different to the picture I posted. @furtulas suggestion of compressed air would be the next on the list to try. You can get cans of this stuff at Poundland so worth a try. It has a 'straw' to attach to the can nozzle... they are pretty powerful. You can also use the can upside down (it works as a liquid freezer spray if you do that) and that can be tried as well. It can sometimes shift and break up gunge. Another thought... maybe other have experience on this. Can the pump in the washer bottle cause this? I'm thinking of reversible pumps that operate the front and rear w
  8. Is the nozzle all plastic or does it have 'pin holes'. Does it look like this where the water comes out? If it does then those little dental brushes are a perfect fit.
  9. I think that's rather harsh tbh. I notice new potholes and surface breakup on roads I use regularly, and these things can appear literally overnight. These are main roads as well.
  10. I agree with the above post. If a second battery is also leaking/venting acid then this is a sure sign over overcharging (alternator voltage to high).
  11. You could try a battery disconnect to reset the ECU. It will need to relearn optimum values and will run or at least idle erratically the first time you restart after doing this. Engines run pretty much up to the point of pre ignition relying on the knock sensor as the means of detecting when this occurs and providing feedback to the ECU. Does the engine burn oil at all? What you describe is something I experience on the 1.33L Auris and that engine has a reputation for oil burning. Pre ignition is listed as one of the official symptoms related to that specific issue. Have you g
  12. I've commented on this before and that was that I felt 'ripped off' when I accepted having a new pollen filter during a service. Considering the service schedule says 'inspect and replace if necessary' I thought it was sharp practice to charge 0.25 hours labour to remove and fit a new filter whereas removing and then refitting the same filter back again, which has to be done if it is inspected, is included in the service price.
  13. Good to get your impressions on the new car and I'm pleased to hear you are enjoying it. I haven't even sat in a new Yaris but your comments on ride quality and overall quietness sound promising. The problem I have with any new car is lack of garage width, my 2010 Auris is a 'snug' fit but I would not want anything wider. Unfortunately cars have grown and grown in the last 20 years. Carina's, a Carina E and Audi A4 all fitted easily. A new Corolla will not. So the Yaris is something I may possibly consider in future. Keep us updated with your impressions...
  14. I suspect the MF part (which is widely used) will be 'Maintenance Free' which means it is essentially a 'sealed' battery but not necessarily an AGM type. If you take the battery out and move it around quickly and can hear the electrolyte sloshing around then it is going to be an EFB or enhanced flooded battery. No sloshing and the battery will be an AGM type with the electrolyte in absorbent matts.
  15. This is very much along the lines of what I was saying yesterday More specific information on quiescent discharge current (what is taken when the car is just sitting there) and what the charge rates are is needed. Also bear in mind that charging is not 100% efficient. To put the 17.5Ah back in your example would take more like 20 to 22Ah to fully replenish. Charging is far more efficient in the first stage when the battery draws high current. As that tails off it becomes less so. Figures vary but you can reckon on 60 to 90% efficiency rates depending on the batteries level of cha
  • Create New...