Mooly

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Mooly last won the day on September 28

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About Mooly

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mr
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. I'd say almost certainly impact damage. Could anyone have been throwing stones or anything have fallen from a roof? Side and rear glass shatters instantly into zillions of very tiny pieces, totally different to a front screen which is laminated.
  2. Tyres after 8.5k and new pads at 13.5k. Something sounds wrong there... I'm on 63k and had four tyres fitted at around 42k. I've never worn a set of brake pads out on any car I've owned.
  3. I think they are very easy to replace (couple of screws and a connector) but what I don't know is whether they are 'plug and play' or whether any calibration is needed. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23407/how-to-trigger-an-idle-throttle-position-re-learn
  4. Try an ECU reset by disconnecting the battery negative lead for a few minutes. Do this with the engine cold and then when you restart allow the engine to idle for a couple of minutes before driving. The pressure in the tank seems variable as sometimes I notice it and other times not. A reset has to be worth a try before going into heavy diagnostics.
  5. I wouldn't think any wiring and connections to any of the lights would even come close to 20A handling capacity. It could be asking for trouble to try and pull significant current through them (overheating and fire risk). There is also the volt drop seen at the load end of the wire. 20A capability needs wire of at least around 35A capability and that is pretty thick cable, around 2.5mm diameter of copper which would lose you around 0.3 volts at 20A for a single core 3 metre run.
  6. Based on what you say it does sound as though a new barrel is needed. I wouldn't like to even guess the cost because the biggest part of the job will be the labour. https://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-your-stuck-Ford-ignition/
  7. Have you tried another key, and is the key you are using an original, and also does it look worn?
  8. A clutch that is obviously slipping will do as you as you say, the revs rise while the car doesn't accelerate, however you can have a clutch that just about passes that test and yet is almost at that point wear wise. Yes, that's it. And the reverse of that is dipping the clutch at speed and blipping the revs higher (while in neutral) and then smartly letting the clutch out again which should feel as if the engine speed has been pulled back down instantly. If you can sense the revs falling back without much of a jolt then the clutch is slipping. Remember when the clutch pedal is released, the engine and gearbox should be effectively clamped tightly together and so you should never really sense any softness or lag as the two come to the same speed. What you should feel is the car protesting at being asked to do that and feel it as a sudden ***** through the transmission.
  9. If you dip the clutch and let the revs drop when in say fourth gear and doing around 30mph and then just let the clutch in again very smartly without giving it any revs then there should be no sense of slippage, you should feel the jolt as the engine comes back up to speed. Any softness due to slippage should be apparent. Although a bit harsh you can also accelerate hard in fourth and dip the clutch momentarily to let the revs rise. As you release the clutch onto the now higher spinning engine there should be no slippage, the revs should come back down instantly. If slave cylinders are a known issue then you have to go with that and regard it as suspect. A high pedal sounds like wear of the friction surfaces as does a hard pedal.
  10. Was the part replaced by a Toyota dealer using a new replacement, or was a part obtained from elsewhere fitted? If already done by Toyota then I would think you have a genuine reason to have this fixed free of charge.
  11. Thanks for the update and I'm pleased to hear its running well. I would recommend you keep a check on the oil level as the 1.33L can use quite a bit as the miles pile on. I've put in around 1.7L in 4000 miles. It is a known issue although it shouldn't cause any problems as long as you keep a check... and of course yours may not use any noticeable amount.
  12. I just put some details into Parkers site (I'm not sure on your exact model) and got this:
  13. I don't know what the connector looks like of the back of the panel but I would absolutely say that it is perfectly possible to damage a single conductor in a multiway plug if the plug is simply tugged by the wires to remove it rather than carefully disconnecting it the correct way.
  14. The filter that the 1.33L uses is just a replaceable element rather than a traditional spin on style cannistor. The filter remains full of oil at all times.
  15. Good luck, and let us know how you get on.