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Mooly

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Mooly last won the day on September 28 2019

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    Mr
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  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. As Stivino says, that really is normal. Once a disc is shiny and 'polished' from normal braking use then any corrosion that appears after that is purely down to local conditions, moisture, salt laden air etc. Discs can get a visible layer of corrosion immediately after washing the car for example.
  2. Do you mean they still look corroded at this present time or just following delivery? Light corrosion should clear up pretty quickly with a few moderate but sustained stops from high speed.
  3. I don't think there is any requirement to tell a customer when a vehicle was built but what immediately seems odd is why a new car would remain unsold in the current climate of long waiting lists. If you have concerns over the condition of it then that perhaps needs addressing. For example where has it been for those fourteen months? In a showroom or stood outside in a holding pen or example Any corrosion showing such as on brake discs?
  4. You can't be a heavy user if it lasted 2.5 months. I top mine up every few days. Would empty it in a week. A Datsun Bluebird from around 1980 was the last one I saw to have a low washer warning. Low battery electrolyte level warning as well on that one.
  5. Similar symptoms to what you describe can also be caused by a low aircon refrigerant charge causing very unequal temperatures to develop across the evaporator.
  6. Sounds like the old 'Italian Tune Up'. A couple of times around the block in 1st and 2nd using all the revs. I once worked with someone who (and this is most unusual for a field service engineer back in the day) used to drive very slowly and gently. We had Astra's back then and he broke down one time. The garage said the problem was the engine and exhaust was chocked full of soot from super slow driving.
  7. Is the car driven a lot on wet and salted roads? At 15 years old you are getting into the age where such issues can arise depending on how the car is used. I agree with the above post that it probably is not economical to spend much money on. It might also be worth getting a second opinion.
  8. Pleased to hear its all working of course but it is a bit of a puzzle how the charge could be so low when that has been dealer checked twice before. Providing the air con is used regularly it should retain its charge for many years. Use it all year round (and at least for 15 minutes a week).
  9. Thanks 🙂 The secret is the car is garaged and really does have dry weather use only. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/202492-corolla-size-guide/?do=findComment&comment=1602209
  10. If all else fails and it can't be set then just disconnect the battery for a few minutes (or pull the appropriate fuse to the panel) as that should reset it but I'm pretty sure it will cycle round if you keep going. It would be interesting to see... I mean, do they thing you will still be driving it in a hundred years time. The year 2100 would be an appropriate roll over point.
  11. No problem 🙂 and thanks for the update on it. As mentioned earlier, I've switched totally to Castrol 10W40 Ultraclean at the last service and have to say that subjectively it seems really good. Very smooth and quiet. Still burns oil of course but whether it burns quite as much remains to be seen. Your mileage is far higher than mine as well.
  12. You need a 12v switched accessory feed, first thought would be to use the one the standard radio/CD uses as that does not cut out when the stop/start operates. I've no diagrams or connection data and would have to do it on the fly if I was doing this... but that is the way I would approach it.
  13. Although the amplifier driving the speakers may put out an equal signal voltage to each speaker, the subjective loudness depends on how efficient the speaker is in converting that energy into sound and that can vary lot.
  14. I've recently experienced this question of different tyre sizes on our old Corolla. Its a 2003 model and had four Maxis budget tyres fitted around 2009 due to cracking in the treads. All good... 2018 and the front pair are showing signs of severe cracking although have worn and lasted better than the originals (Dunlop?) but that's another story... 2018 and the fronts are replaced by a new pair of Maxis. I've always thought they looked very 'kerb friendly' as they had plenty of rubber past the rims... more info to follow. 2022 and sidewall puncture in a rear plus the fact these were now 13 years old and cracked badly had me just look at the sidewall for the details and ask for a pair of budget tyres to be fitted. These were the 2009 fitment and were 195/60R15. New budgets fitted and they offered to swap wheels putting the new rubber on the front. Nothing was said but I notice the new tyres seem much less kerb friendly, I check and they are 195/60's as I asked for. I look at the rears (which are those fitted in 2018) and am surprised to see these are 195/65R15 and so have a bigger rolling diameter. How could I have got that wrong, I went out and wrote the details off the tyre before booking an appointment for them to be fitted. Well it turns out I didn't get it wrong, the 2009 Maxis that were on the rear were correct (195/60) and the ones fitted in 2018 are incorrect. I have the paperwork for those and they are billed as 195/60's. So I've been driving around with incorrect tyres that cause the speedo to under read which is disturbing because I know the speedo itself will over read by design and so I know for example going through a speed camera at an indicated 32 or 33mph will not be over 30mph with correct tyres but with the incorrect fitment it will. Those 195/65 are now fitted on the rear.
  15. So quite a bit more than just the speakers have been swapped. Without test and measurement its impossible to say what is happening really. A very basic check would be to take a front and rear speaker and and alternately feed each from the same signal source and see how they compare for volume level. So that means disconnecting each speaker, running wires from each to an amplifier output and comparing one against the other.
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