Mooly

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Mooly last won the day on September 28 2019

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About Mooly

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  • First Name
    Mr
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.33 TR Decuma Grey
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Lancashire

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  1. If the battery was that low then I would recommend (once a good or charged battery is fitted) totally disconnecting the battery for several minutes in order to reset the ECU. Uneven idle is to be expected whilst the ECU relearns the optimal operating values for the engine and that process may have been triggered by a very low battery condition. The normal idle speed itself can increase and decrease as the air con compressor engages and disengages.
  2. Just finely mist it over on the outside with a water spray bottle and look for evidence all heater lines are functional. Conclusive proof in a couple of minutes.
  3. Interesting, thanks for the update. I'd probably have to say 'all bets are off' once an aftermarket device has been fitted to something mission critical like a pedal and ECU unless it were a manufacturer approved fitment. I'm not saying that as a cop out, I'm an electronics engineer and so I can visualise all the things that can go wrong when you try and design and add something to a system to externally modify the way it works. Its a bit like changing a line of code in computer file or program or changing something like a registry key and thinking it has fixed an issue when in fact it causes another problem with something apparently unrelated because of some unknown interdependency. All you can do is test it now its back to original configuration.
  4. I'm afraid I've nothing more I can add apart from you saying that replacing the battery seemed to 'fix' the issue as it has been fine for 9 months. Things like that set alarm bells ringing because it has to be related in some way to the issue. Did the new battery 'fix' the issue or was it a more extended disconnect of the supply that reset the ECU. I can't help but wonder if this issue is similar to one I experience (and continue to experience) since I first got the car 10.5 years ago. Every 9 to 15 months or so (and this first happened when it was less than 18 months old) I experience a weird 'hunting' at speed that could be taken for a loss of power I suppose. If I try and maintain a steady speed it feels like the brakes are almost imperceptibly being applied gently and then released. The speedo shows no variation in speed but it can be 'sensed'. This is rhythmic over 4 or 5 seconds and ever present when it goes into this state... but it's subtle and not very noticeable at lower speeds. 10.5 years on and I still have the issue and in my case an ECU reset does fix it and the difference is then very noticeable, in other words you get a bit accustomed to the loss of performance that had occurred previously. I'm going to suggest you try a reset again. Disconnect just the negative lead and tuck it out of the way and leave it for 30 minutes or so. Also while the lead is disconnected just press the brake pedal once. This will connect the brake lights across the (disconnected) supply and ensure any residual charge is discharged. When you reconnect the battery do it decisively pushing the negative terminal fully home and while keeping pressure on the terminal lightly tighten the clamp. Do not overtighten. Then test it.
  5. If he checked the pressures when the system was running and interpreted the results correctly then it should be good enough whereas if he just measured the static pressure at rest then that alone is not conclusive proof. For example... think of a can of butane gas. It doesn't matter whether the can is full or almost empty, the pressure inside is the same. Refrigerant is just the same, the static resting pressure doesn't tell us how much of the stuff is in there, it only tells us that at rest there is enough for there to be some in liquid form and the rest existing as vapour, which is the pressure we measure. A system that is low on charge can have correct static resting pressure but have insufficient refrigerant to circulate around all the parts.
  6. Were the system pressures checked using proper equipment and with the system running, or was it just a static pressure check which is not always necessarily conclusive proof the system has sufficient refrigerant charge.
  7. The 'immobiliser' chip in the key is self contained and totally independent of the keyfob battery and its related electronics. They can not really be damaged unless you physically break it. They are very small and embedded into the keys plastic case and require no external power such as a battery. If you do an image search for 'immobiliser chip' you will see many examples. I would still suspect something very simple before thinking of complex issues... batteries (the one on the car) can do odd things when failing and/or if the connections are not secure. So those would be the first things to check really.
  8. That sounds like the fan cutting in (when the compressor is engaged) rather than the actual noise of the compressor but it is going to be normal. The behaviour is different on different cars and models and when driving along the fan may not even be needed as there will be sufficient flow over the condenser. Nothing to worry about, it is doing what it should and it will automatically do what is needed to ensure correct operating conditions.
  9. I was going to say the windscreen and its bonding. Is it original or has it been replaced at some point? Water can travel by capillary action from quite a distance
  10. If they are coin cells like the 1616 then you might be able to confirm it more accurately because the 1616 means 16mm diameter and 1.6mm thick. These are all widely available in Home Bargains and the like (decent quality to). If it was a small round cylinder type then you need to determine the size and voltage. Common ones were the 11A type and the 27A type, Why not just ask a dealer what size they are.
  11. Two things to try. Once the window is up try holding the window switch in the UP position for 20 seconds. Don't release it during that time. Then see if the window winds down OK. If that doesn't work then get the window to the fully up position and then disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes. Just remove the negative lead only. When you reconnect do it smartly and firmly pressing the clamp firmly down on the battery terminal all the time. Do not overtighten. Now try again.
  12. Just brim filled the old 1.4L 2003 Corolla 4 door and it took 42.12L having covered 454 miles. MPG = 48.9 which sounds remarkably good tbh but it is what it is.
  13. But over what time period and distance? I average currently around 50ish and perhaps a little more from a 1.33L Auris (petrol) over two full fill-ups. So thats over say 800 miles daily usage. Those are real world calculated figures by the way, the display is showing 51.3 at the moment but has reached over 55 on longer gentle runs.
  14. Very very strange indeed. I think I would be looking into the history of the car and whether it has had any front end damage repaired. As to the air con, well the big problem now is that the system has been open to the air for an unknown period of time and that means moisture will have entered and both saturated the 'dryer' which are desiccant crystals in the condenser assembly and also the moisture reacts with the oils in the system causing a corrosive reaction. I would seriously look at options for rejecting the car on the grounds it has been mis-sold. I'm sorry it's not better news but I think you should try and found out as much as you can about this cars past.