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About kipp

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  • Toyota Model
    2003 Camry LE 4
  1. Have you put a trickle charger on the battery only to see if it has a slow short? Charge at 2-10 amps. Then with engine off, put the head lights on for 30 seconds and turn off. recheck the voltage: should still be 12.6. Too much electrolyte on the battery top can also do this [gounding across to ground. Also a weak cell or partially broken internal connectors can also do this. Does the voltage of the alternator stay at 14.5 or does change according to the engine speed? [internal voltage regulator] Are the battery cables in good shape and clean without corrosion?
  2. Most switches of high-amp-use have low amp flow to a selenoid under dash or in engine compartment near the battery as the high amp control. If the low amp switch has a poor contact due to carbon or poor surface contact, insufficient voltage will allow the selenoid to stay down with a resulting clicking.
  3. If your state allows single party approval, you can record the call, or if both parties need approval, ask if they will approve of the taping. If both are no: then you can send a confirmation of the essence of the conversation via 1st class mail with return receipt requested. If they don't correct you, then it may be considered confirmed.
  4. I appreciate factory alignment allowable parameters [range] provide a variation to allow for manufactoring and accident/frame variability for self straightening and tire wear. However, my understanding is that the angles in the individual car should be the same side to side avoiding the expected pull proportionate to their variation. I have noted that the camber angles are different on your cars. Why wasn't the aligner more exacting about the side to side camber? [Caster is not adjusted to my knowledge on this McPherson strut.] With the caster being less than most cars, [except when fully loaded] the car will be more sensative to small camber variations. <_<
  5. Agree with above. But also consider the starter solenoid in the engine compartment fuse box.[From key-reduces amperage through key switch.] Check the battery: charge fully with charger. Turn lights on for 30 seconds. Turn off lights [to get rid of over charge]. The voltage should be 12.6. If lower, may have a weak cell or connector in battery allowing lights but heavy load of battery. Brighten battery and ground contacts.
  6. Sounds electrical in the computer/s. Transmission usually shifts into lockup about 45. If speedo is mal functioning [signal from computer] then the same malfunction is effecting the shift point.
  7. Similar problem with my ** Fiero: try checking the fuse in car and in engine compartment. Then changing the dim switch. Fast and /or cheap.
  8. First thought, check the antisway bar grommets. Cheap and easy.
  9. 1] If the heater never worked well even with mid temp range achieved: then the air over the heater core or antifreeze through the core is restricted. [if corrosion in heater core is causing the obstruction, then old or imbalanced antifreeze may also cause corrosion in the radiator with flackiness from the corroding block.] 2] If the temp usually stayed midrange, then the thermostat was working. [until today?] However, if it cooled again, then a stuck shut thermastat probably is ruled out. 3] Climbing a hill with a lean mixture [due to a faulty knock sensor] would cause the engine to over heat acutely. I would test and replace knock sensor, reverse flush cooling system, and replace antifreeze, radiator cap and thermastat. Loosing oil with leaks at 1/2 quart per 1000 miles is acceptable for an older engine or just prior to oil change [viscosity agents wear out over time and when over heated.] If the above relatively cheap regimen clears up the problem, maybe you don't need the head gasket changed.
  10. Cometstorm: as you can see. they made the camber more on the right [.3 degrees] which should compensate for the driver's weight somewhat. Outville: You mention that the car does not sit flat. The camber [adjustable] and caster [unadjustable with mc ferson suspensions without aftermarket ofset] would be altered if one spring was weak front or rear. Have you assessed the spring height on all wheels on the flat surface of alignment lift? A weak spring could be a manufacturing error [putting a v6 spring on a 4 cyl car, solara on a camry] or defect in the alloy. The caster should be the same and on your car, they are way off. Despite the number, the caster should be the same and if not, then your stearing would pull.
  11. Cometstorm: I also have a similar drift. In measuring the sipes at 10000 miles, the tires were wearing evenly, though, underinflated [more on edges equally on all tires.] Since, I have increased the pressure to 31 cold [factory 29] all around and rotated the tires, they are still wearing evenly, and equally at the edges. There is a range of acceptable alignment specs. Regardless choice, are both sides set identically? I noted that you only spoke of the left, though I would suppose that they are the same. If they are not identical, then, did they put less camber on the left? If they did, then they essentially did the same as putting a 40 pound weight on the font left fender, which would compensate for the driver without passengers. If the angles are identical, then this is one very sensitive car.
  12. My understanding of octane rating is the tendency of the fuel not to explode. Gas engines are designed to have a flame path across the chamber when ignited causing complete but controlled burning. Not exploding. The explosion of the fuel is detonation which places the piston/wrist pin/rod/and crank under extreme pressure. If the timing is correct and the fuel detonates, then the fuel must be changed to an increased octane rating. If the timing is too advanced, compression too high, too much boost from turbo/supercharger, or carbon is glowing in the chamber, the fuel may explode [pinging.]
  13. To the best of my recollection, the aligner would put a 40 # weight over the left fender to compensate for a single driver which would avoid a drift to the left when only one person is driving. If that is still an appropriate procedure, and the aligners are failing to do it, then you may get a left drift. This would be due to the ~ 1 degree left lean on both front tires when on person sits in the car without the compensatory weight during the alignment. Any know if the weight is still used? <_<
  14. Toe in or point inward/or straight ahead probably will not effect the lateral drift but will scrub the tires laterally. Camber, however, will cause lateral drift. This is the tipping laterally of the wheel-tire and if tip is not the same on both wheels relative to the car frame. The more tip the more the lateral pull and if one side is more than the other, the drift occurs. Caster, or tip back of the steering twist [down thrugh the shock on a macpherson strut] if different on front wheels can also cause drift to a lessor degree. A stuck brake caliper on one side may also cause pull by having increased friction on one side, but less likely due to low mileage. A full alignment is necessary to rule out it [alignment] which includes tire pressure equalization and tire type/wear/sizing. I bought a '88 pontiac fiero formula [6" rims in front and 7" in back from the factory.] The car also pulled to the left, but I found both back tires [7"] were on the left. It drove true when the 2-7" tire were repositioned in the back [6" on the front.]