abraxas

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    200
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

abraxas last won the day on December 1 2015

abraxas had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About abraxas

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    asdfghjkl;
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4 2.2 D4D XTR
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Midlothian

Recent Profile Visitors

5,714 profile views
  1. Thought I'd share my experience of installing a Cruise Control on a RAV with you lot, in case someone finds it useful or entertaining. Disclaimer : I am not an automotive engineer. Everything you read below is an account of my personal experiences and should not be treated as “a recipe” to do anything. If you are not entirely sure that you are safe in whatever you’re doing, you should simply not do it. No responsibility is given or implied for any of your own actions or any damage that may result from them. That out of the way :) ... I was doing some reading on the forum and on the net and I came to the conclusion that Cruise Control on a RAV4 is all done in software; And, more importantly, allready built-in! [Well, in my one anyway (‘07 XTR D4D 2.2)]. What was missing was a little control stalk that is mounted on the steering wheel. Someone then gave me a pointer to an auction on a well-known auction site where I found the very device for a princely sum of about 25 pounds. It was shipped from Thailand and arrived about a week later. Following is the procedure I used: First, I disconnected the battery [i thought that this is very important!] In order to get to the areas I needed to get to, I needed to lift the driver’s airbag (it is a part of the steering wheel cover assembly (horn)). Airbags should always be treated with respect. My thinking was that if there is no power to trigger them they should be reasonably safe. Lift Airbag assembly out of the way I undid the two Torx screws at the underside of the steering wheel using a ratchet and and an extension bar. (There are only two holes on the cowling, they are hard to miss). I then carefully lifted the airbag. I chose not to disconnect the airbag (to avoid upsetting anything) but “secured” it on top of the cowling with a couple of rubber bands. Note: The connectior that is circled in red is the one that CC stalk connects to Cut a hole for the CC-stalk I got a rough idea of the hole that I needed to make from another forum user’s photo of a factory fitted Cruise Control (thanks DavRav). I marked it with a felt-tip and got to work with a scalpel (I could have used a “box-cutter” / “Stanley” knife too). I used a small file and a tiny blowtorch to tidy up the edges. Install control stalk I slid the stalk through the hole I made and fastened it to the frame with a couple of screws. I then connected the stalk to [the only connector that would fit] on the steering wheel. Re-install airbag assembly I finally [very carefully] put things back where they were in the first place and re-did the two retaining torx-screws. Re-connect battery I found that step quite useful... as I was planning to start the car n'that... :) Test I [carefully] tested on a deserted stretch of road. Push the button - "CRUISE" dashboard light came on in it's green splendour :) All cruise control functions worked fine.... Job's a good'un!
  2. Firstly, it is really difficult to diagnose a problem without actually hearing the sounds and driving the car. For all we know you could have something wrapped around the wheel hub that is rubbing as you drive, or your new tyres are not properly balanced. :) I am being facetious to bring it to another point... It seems to me that you are working yourself up over what *may* well turn out to be a simple and/or cheap fix. 6k for a car like that is a pretty good price, I'd say. There's another poster a couple of posts down from your that sees a 2004 car for 5k "a great buy". [That is previous-shape car, with 72k miles, probably not as high a spec as a T180.] And he is also having problems with it... Point being that maybe even if you have to fork out a couple of hundred extra to get it into top shape, still, you will have a decent car for a good price. [Maybe being the operative word, you do have to get it assessed properly first.] As for the TPMS/RunFlat/BSR... that is a well known issue. People on this forum paid money to get the car into the same state as yours is in now. [paid for taking RFT and BSR off, and then put "normal" tyres on. They also had the TPMS light on and decided to live with it, or put a wee switch to turn it off like Charlie did. So that is not really an issue. Anyways, just trying to bring it to the centre with a "balanced view". :) It is a horrible feeling thinking that you've made an expensive mistake, and I feel for you here. But most second-hand cars have some issue or another. Not many people can afford to change cars "just because they feel like it". They usually sell them on [for 1/4 original price] when they start giving hassle. The only way to ensure they don't is to pay over the odds and buy brand new. The other thing to do is "factor in" a bit of tolerance when buying second hand that you may need to fix a few things that may crop up... I am no car trader and I have bought a few "lemons" in my time, it is just the nature of the second-hand car beast. Chin up mate, no point being sick to the stomach about it, things may turn out not be as bad as you see them now...
  3. I suppose I also thought WT West were ok a while ago. Bought my RAV from them and even though it wasn't exactly plain sailing, they came good in the end. But then they moved into a shiny new office sited between BMW and Lexus [ at "luxury car village" <puke>]... and promptly developed massive delusions of grandeur. I found that competence was swiftly replaced with arrogance and inflated prices. Last time I was there for the MOT; I got in touch with a salesman and asked to look at other RAVs and possibly trade-in for something younger. The salesman couldn't be bothered meeting me on the day. The person doing the MOT got the milage massively wrong on the MOT certificate, had to fix at DVLA. They hardly even apologised. The next time they wanted over two times the price I ended up paying for a service at another Toyota garage. Stopped bothering to ask them for anything...
  4. I read that "Watford" as "Wallyford" :) heheh. Definitely hard to understand if ye cannae read. :)
  5. Thanks for the support Kevster. Need to do me some a-thinkin' first. Dunno what to trade it in for...
  6. Well... no dice on that. :( Just to save some people some time: Toyota Warranty Group won't sell you an extended warranty. You have to go to the dealers. They won't even extend the cover if it expired long ago. (Mine expired a year and a half ago. Couldn't afford the dealership-level-price renewal) That is a shame. For the prices Rob was mentioning I could afford to stick with it for a couple of years. This RAV has been a pretty good car but this Toyota nonsense of "if your engine goes boom after 7yrs + a day _due to a known fault_ - you're on your own"... just can't afford to risk it. (yes, I am really bitter about it, part of the reason I stayed away from the forum for a while too :( ) Well... maybe the universe is trying to tell me to just get rid of the RAV. </rant over> :)
  7. Thanks very much for the info guys. I'll see if I can give them a call tomorrow and see what they can offer. The last time I looked into this, it was definitely waaay more expensive. Like 2x the amount Rob mentioned. That was at the dealers, admittedly...
  8. Thanks FB. I'll try that when I get round to it. Website seemed a wee bit ... ummm...generic, i was just wondering if anyone else took up / managed to get the offer.
  9. Thanks D. I saw the address but It never dawned on me ... You're not suggesting a letter! Surely? In this day and age?! :) I was hoping someone may have a URL/name/email/ phone... Telex? Telegram? :) If all else fails, I'll look for one of them pen-cil thingamabobs. :) order one online, i mean of course. :)
  10. Hey all. Been a while... Greetings to old friends. This is actually quite interesting! Been thinking about sticking with the familiar devil or jumping ship and this could well be the deal-maker. Anyone have any idea how / whom to inquire about this with ? That would take the edge of the old time-bomb of early 2AD coming up to the 7-yr mark. (To use the Sun school of headline-writing :) )
  11. Thank you very much for the replies guys. I am starting to realise that this may be beyond me capabilities. :( Mainly because of lack of a good space to work in (garage is tiny and brim-full of junk) and then there is specialist tools and parts Ian mentions. I may need to just bite the bullet and pay the garage to get it done. And prey that they do a good job. The thing is that I have never seen a drop of anything that actually leaked out of the thing onto the driveway. I may need to have a better look to figure out what is going on first. And maybe take it to a different garage. "Trust but verify." as Horatio would put it :) <takes sunglasses off ... YEEEEEEAH! > :) Thanks for all your replies guys!
  12. Thanks kevster. Looks like either I'm asking a daft question or this ain't a common problem... Looks like I may well need to visit a garage. Not sure about bothy's garage, though. They'll take my diesel engine oot and put a stage2 aff an Arianne 4 :) and who can afford a road tax on that ?! :)
  13. Hey all! Been a while since I was here last… although I still do pop in an lurk every so often good to see the "usual suspects" are still here in full contingent! and I’m sure y’all missed my considered input. :) I just took the RAV to the dealer for a service and got an advisory that a “NSF Drive shaft seal is leaking”. The usual ridiculous labor price in tow and I am now thinking that it is not worth paying the main dealer for the work… While I am sure the part itself is not expensive, I was just wondering if you thought that this is a DIY-fix or should I try to find a local garage to look at it? I couldn’t find a sticky with any instructions even though I thought that this would be a common problem… Well, I’m definitely no master-mechanic but I’m no stranger to a spanner set. The thing is that I prefer to know exactly what has been done as I don’t really implicitly trust anyone. :) I like to know that a good OEM part and a fair deal of care has gone into the fix and don’t mind “making a loss” by taking hours to do the job. . Call me a skeptic. :) Anyhow… any views/advice/pointers welcome. (Or/and a recommendation of a good independent in central Scotland if you all think this ain’t a driveway-job. ) Thanks!
  14. I'm as far from a detailing expert as you can get, but none of those look like were inflicted by a rotary ...umm... anything. I have had the pleasure of Charlie's favourite garage (EH branch) inflicting one of their washes/polishes on my one at the handover time... and swirl-marks left by their rotary polisher are quite different. :) As it happens, they are still on the car 4 years later, hence - no expert :) All the scratches in your pictures look linear to me. If, say, a bit of grit was to get into a polisher pad, it would leave either circular or helix-style marks as the polisher is moved along the body. I cannot see how you could possibly get almost a straight line that looks at least 2-3 inches long, unless your polishing pad is 8 foot in diameter. :) If I had to guess, I'd also say that someone tried to scrape something off the car / squeegee... OTOH, my car looked almost spotless when I got it and I definitely noticed nothing untoward. So there is some merit in looking into concealing waxes, but the scratches were definitely nowhere as deep as your ones and only visible in the direct sunlight. [ Luckily I chose to live in Scotland, so that's not much of a problem... :) ] Hope you get it sorted!
  15. Nice one! Really happy that it all worked for you.