peterc

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About peterc

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  • Toyota Model
    Previa
  1. peterc

    Seat Swap ?

    Watcha, Anyone know if its possible to fit Captain seats in the middle row of a UK Previa instaed of the bench one ? Are bolt holes alreadt there ? Any info would be great. cheers Pete
  2. peterc

    New Estima

    or ebay: http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...nual&category0=
  3. peterc

    New Estima

    Manual - http://www.spam.com/Estima.html L = Low gear (going down steep hill etc) Cheers Pete
  4. peterc

    K&n Filters

    Waste of money. OEM does better job of filtering. Pete
  5. Amp is under glovebox - i think ! Black box ? Cheers Pete
  6. Ebay for manual Pete
  7. You might want to think about getting the Lambda sensor changed. Cut and pasted: OXYGEN (O2) SENSOR. Used on both carbureted and fuel injected engines since 1981, the oxygen (O2) sensor is the key sensor in the fuel mixture feedback control loop. Mounted in the exhaust manifold, the O2 sensor monitors the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. On many V6 and V8 engines, there are two such sensors (one for each bank of cylinders). The O2 sensor generates a voltage signal that is proportional to the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the fuel mixture is rich, most of the oxygen is consumed during combustion so there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust inside the manifold and the air outside creates an electrical potential across the sensor’s platinum and zirconium tip. This causes the sensor to generate a voltage signal. The sensor’s output is high (up to 0.9v) when the fuel mixture is rich (low oxygen), and low (down to 0.1v) when the mixture is lean (high oxygen). The sensor’s output is monitored by the computer and is used to rebalance the fuel mixture for lowest emissions. When the sensor reads "lean" the PCM increases the on-time of the injectors to make the fuel mixture go rich. Conversely, when the sensor reads "rich" the PCM shortens the on-time of the injectors to make the fuel mixture go lean. This causes a rapid back-and-forth switching from rich to lean and back again as the engine is running. These even waves result in an "average" mixture that is almost perfectly balanced for clean combustion. The switching rate is slowest in older feedback carburetors, faster is throttle body injection systems and fastest in multiport sequential fuel injection. If the O2 sensor’s output is monitored on an oscilloscope, it will produce a zigzagging line that dances back and forth from rich to lean. Take a look at the waveform on the opposite page - that’s what a technician wants to see when he checks the O2 - think of it as a kind of heart monitor for the engine’s air/fuel mixture. O2 Sensor Strategies: Unheated one- or two-wire O2 sensors on 1976 through early 1990s applications should be replaced every 30,000 to 50,000 miles to assure reliable performance. Heated 3 and 4-wire O2 sensors on mid-1980s through mid-1990s applications should be changed every 60,000 miles. On OBD II equipped vehicles, the recommended replacement interval is 100,000 miles. The O2 sensor’s responsiveness and voltage output can diminish with age and exposure to certain contaminants in the exhaust such as lead, sulfur, silicone (coolant leaks) and phosphorus (oil burning). If the sensor becomes contaminated, it may not respond very quickly to changes in the air/fuel mixture causing a lag in the PCM’s ability to control the air/fuel mixture. The sensor’s voltage output may decline giving a lower than normal reading. This may cause the PCM to react as if the fuel mixture were leaner than it really is resulting in an overly rich fuel mixture. How common is this problem? One EPA study found that 70 percent of the vehicles that failed an I/M 240 emissions test needed a new O2 sensor Pete
  8. peterc

    Starter Motor

    Have a look on here: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/ There is a pic of a kit from Toyota with a number 28226 72010 on it. Not sure if this will be the same for the previa, but it should point you in the right direction. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/St...l#WhichContacts Pete
  9. peterc

    Wanted

    There was one on ebay the other day - cant find it now Couple of previa being broken on there as well - maybe get one from them. Pete this one is in the states: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-AMP-...sspagenameZWD2V Pete
  10. peterc

    Starter Motor

    You should be able to get the contacts from any parts place. They might have to order it. My mate did mine (he is a qualified Toyota mechanic). Cheers Pete
  11. LOL Glad you sorted it. Pete
  12. peterc

    Braking Noise

    I would have thought that it would be cheaper for them to just replace the disks. Didnt think anyone skimmed disks anymore ! Set of disks(pattern) are only about £20-30 quid ! Pete
  13. Found this on the net somewhere: Front Dash Removal Instructions from Bob Czachor First of all be patient with everything. It gets a little aggravating at times. Its best to do it in a well lit area. If you have a bad memory, get someone who has a good one to watch you take the dash board apart. You will need an off-set or stubby phillips head screwdriver to replace the fan speed switch. 1. Remove the ash tray. 2. Open the storage compartment below the ash tray and empty the contents. 3. Bend in the sides of the compartment door just enough for the door stops at the back of the door to clear and allow the door to swing completely down and out of the way. 4. You must disassemble and remove the cigarette lighter from the dash or else you will damage it later. Unplug the wires from the back of the cigarette lighter. The bigger plug requires a good pull, the smaller one (for the light bulb) has a locking tab on one of the sides. You need to squeeze this locking tab as you pull the plug. 5. The housing for the light bulb locks the entire cigarette lighter on to the dashboard. From the backside facing out toward the van interior, turn the light housing clockwise 90 degrees to unlock the light bulb housing. Remove the light bulb and its housing from the cigarette lighter. 6. Back to the cigarette lighter. From the backside, slide out the black metal housing with the plastic piece inside of it. This little plastic piece is what the light bulb housing locks into. 7. Push the inside part of the cigarette lighter out of the dash from the rear. This requires a considerable amount of force. 8. All that should be left of the cigarette lighter in the dash board is a white plastic housing inside the dashboard. It has two locking clips, one per side. Squeeze the clips from behind the dash while pushing the white housing out the front of the dash. 9. Now you must finally remove the small square part of the dash board that holds all the other pieces of the cigarette lighter (next to where the ash tray was). This is held to the rest of the dash by a spring clip located on the back right side of it as you face it. You must either pull out from the front, or feel around behind and push it out where the spring clip is. Either way requires a lot of force. Don't worry, it won't break. Just don't lose the clip, it tends to pop off. You have now completed the most difficult part of replacing your radio. 10. Remove the four Phillips head screws (if your Previa was built like mine, you'll find three screws) that are holding the drink holder/ash tray mounting plate to the dash. You must slide the drink holder out to expose two of the screws. If you haven't removed the cigarette lighter, you WILL damage it in the next step. 11. The mounting plate is now loose and must be removed. This is a struggle. It takes a bit of finagling to get it out. Be patient - you will get it out. You have now completed the second most difficult part. The rest is all downhill. 12. Once you have the mounting plate removed you will have exposed two more screws. They are Phillips head/hexagon head screws. I recommend using an 8mm socket to remove these. 13. Remove the very top of the dash, exposing the fuse box. This will also expose four more Phillips head screws. 14. Remove the two outer screws. 15. At this point the front of the dash including the radio and two air vents is loose. This will all slide out toward you. It takes a bit of tugging, but it does come out. You should now have the radio removed from your dash, still attached to the support brackets. IF YOU ARE ONLY REPLACING THE FAN SPEED SWITCH, THEN SKIP STEPS 16 THROUGH 19 AND GO TO STEP 20. 16. Unplug the wires from the back of the radio. 17. Remove the old radio from the support brackets and place the new one on to the brackets. 18. Inside the dash you will find three wiring harnesses. One you just unplugged from the factory installed radio, the other two are for other makes. If you bought the radio from Crutchfield, you were probably provided two harnesses with your new radio and will use the other two inside the dash. 19. Put it all back together. 20. Either swing the radio/vent assembly out of the way or unplug the wires from the back of the radio and move the assembly completely out of the way. 21. Remove all the knobs from all the temperature controls. 22. There are five locking tabs holding the temperature control faceplate on. Two on each side and one on the bottom. Carefully bend these out slightly to free the plate. These are plastic and very fragile. Be careful not to break them. I recommend doing the two on the right first, then the bottom, and then the face plate should come right off. 23. You should have just exposed a clear piece of plastic surrounding the control slide bars. There are two more locking clips on this. These are extremely fragile. I broke the left one. If you have to break one, I recommend breaking the left one. You can always put a small piece of tape in its place. 24. Once you remove the clear piece, you will expose three more screws. Remove the two on the left. 25. Remove the four screws holding the temperature controls and panel in place. 26. Slide the panel down. DOWN, not IN the dash. Slide it down as far as it will go. This will require a little force and bending out one of the sides of the hole in the dash a little bit. 27. There are two more screws to remove. These are not readily seen. You have to look on the top of the controls to see them. One is about half way back in the middle, the other is way in the back on the left, next to the slide bar for the Previa's rear temperature control. You will need the off-set or stubby screwdriver to remove these. 28. After you've removed these two screws, lift off the left top of the controls (the place with the slide bar in it). 29. You've now exposed the fan speed control switch. Unplug the wiring harness from the back, there is a locking clip on the bottom. This plug is a real struggle! 30. Push out the old lights. 31. Slightly bend up the locking clip on the top center of the switch housing and slide the switch out. 32. Put it all back together. Sorry if this information has been reposted elsewhere. The following is a set of instructions to remove the front dash of the Previa posted by Bob Czachor on www.carcast.com's BBS. Bob, if you are in this group, thanks. I hope you don't mind if I repost your instructions here. D-I-Yers will need these instructions to get at the stereo or to replace the blower fan switches. Here goes.... Front Dash Removal Instructions from Bob Czachor First of all be patient with everything. It gets a little aggravating at times. Its best to do it in a well lit area. If you have a bad memory, get someone who has a good one to watch you take the dash board apart. You will need an off-set or stubby phillips head screwdriver to replace the fan speed switch. 1. Remove the ash tray. 2. Open the storage compartment below the ash tray and empty the contents. 3. Bend in the sides of the compartment door just enough for the door stops at the back of the door to clear and allow the door to swing completely down and out of the way. 4. You must disassemble and remove the cigarette lighter from the dash or else you will damage it later. Unplug the wires from the back of the cigarette lighter. The bigger plug requires a good pull, the smaller one (for the light bulb) has a locking tab on one of the sides. You need to squeeze this locking tab as you pull the plug. 5. The housing for the light bulb locks the entire cigarette lighter on to the dashboard. From the backside facing out toward the van interior, turn the light housing clockwise 90 degrees to unlock the light bulb housing. Remove the light bulb and its housing from the cigarette lighter. 6. Back to the cigarette lighter. From the backside, slide out the black metal housing with the plastic piece inside of it. This little plastic piece is what the light bulb housing locks into. 7. Push the inside part of the cigarette lighter out of the dash from the rear. This requires a considerable amount of force. 8. All that should be left of the cigarette lighter in the dash board is a white plastic housing inside the dashboard. It has two locking clips, one per side. Squeeze the clips from behind the dash while pushing the white housing out the front of the dash. 9. Now you must finally remove the small square part of the dash board that holds all the other pieces of the cigarette lighter (next to where the ash tray was). This is held to the rest of the dash by a spring clip located on the back right side of it as you face it. You must either pull out from the front, or feel around behind and push it out where the spring clip is. Either way requires a lot of force. Don't worry, it won't break. Just don't lose the clip, it tends to pop off. You have now completed the most difficult part of replacing your radio. 10. Remove the four Phillips head screws (if your Previa was built like mine, you'll find three screws) that are holding the drink holder/ash tray mounting plate to the dash. You must slide the drink holder out to expose two of the screws. If you haven't removed the cigarette lighter, you WILL damage it in the next step. 11. The mounting plate is now loose and must be removed. This is a struggle. It takes a bit of finagling to get it out. Be patient - you will get it out. You have now completed the second most difficult part. The rest is all downhill. 12. Once you have the mounting plate removed you will have exposed two more screws. They are Phillips head/hexagon head screws. I recommend using an 8mm socket to remove these. 13. Remove the very top of the dash, exposing the fuse box. This will also expose four more Phillips head screws. 14. Remove the two outer screws. 15. At this point the front of the dash including the radio and two air vents is loose. This will all slide out toward you. It takes a bit of tugging, but it does come out. You should now have the radio removed from your dash, still attached to the support brackets. IF YOU ARE ONLY REPLACING THE FAN SPEED SWITCH, THEN SKIP STEPS 16 THROUGH 19 AND GO TO STEP 20. 16. Unplug the wires from the back of the radio. 17. Remove the old radio from the support brackets and place the new one on to the brackets. 18. Inside the dash you will find three wiring harnesses. One you just unplugged from the factory installed radio, the other two are for other makes. If you bought the radio from Crutchfield, you were probably provided two harnesses with your new radio and will use the other two inside the dash. 19. Put it all back together. 20. Either swing the radio/vent assembly out of the way or unplug the wires from the back of the radio and move the assembly completely out of the way. 21. Remove all the knobs from all the temperature controls. 22. There are five locking tabs holding the temperature control faceplate on. Two on each side and one on the bottom. Carefully bend these out slightly to free the plate. These are plastic and very fragile. Be careful not to break them. I recommend doing the two on the right first, then the bottom, and then the face plate should come right off. 23. You should have just exposed a clear piece of plastic surrounding the control slide bars. There are two more locking clips on this. These are extremely fragile. I broke the left one. If you have to break one, I recommend breaking the left one. You can always put a small piece of tape in its place. 24. Once you remove the clear piece, you will expose three more screws. Remove the two on the left. 25. Remove the four screws holding the temperature controls and panel in place. 26. Slide the panel down. DOWN, not IN the dash. Slide it down as far as it will go. This will require a little force and bending out one of the sides of the hole in the dash a little bit. 27. There are two more screws to remove. These are not readily seen. You have to look on the top of the controls to see them. One is about half way back in the middle, the other is way in the back on the left, next to the slide bar for the Previa's rear temperature control. You will need the off-set or stubby screwdriver to remove these. 28. After you've removed these two screws, lift off the left top of the controls (the place with the slide bar in it). 29. You've now exposed the fan speed control switch. Unplug the wiring harness from the back, there is a locking clip on the bottom. This plug is a real struggle! 30. Push out the old lights. 31. Slightly bend up the locking clip on the top center of the switch housing and slide the switch out. 32. Put it all back together. Pete
  14. Watcha, These are the 2 differant harnesses you can get. The first one is the one i used: http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/install/show_model.asp?id=273 This is the other type used for the other sort ie fatory amplified systems. http://cgi.ebay.com/Toyota-Amplified-Radio...1QQcmdZViewItem Like i said, i didnt think UK Previas had amplified sytems, so it sounds like yours is a DIY job. Hope this helps. Pete
  15. Watcha, Your wiring adaptor should make the job a "plug and Play" exercise :) What adaptor did you get ? You sure you have a pre-amp ? Didnt think UK cars had these. When i did my K reg Previa, all i had to do was buy the adaptor and plug it into the loom Cheers Pete