Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About vmax1

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 1.8 GS
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
  1. I've just found out why it's weeping !!! It would appear that this one nut has been overtightened and the casing has cracked around the hole/spotface! I guess that this was done by some monkey when I had my cambelt replaced and they must have known as there was some dried up gunge around the crack/spotface area! Trouble is that as I had the belt fitted back in May I can't prove it. I'm now looking for a s/hand cover to do the job properly myself :censor: That's another garage to strike off my ever decreasing list!!!!!!!!!! vmax1
  2. ---- in case you do regulary remove an oil -- this means your engine suffers from gases penetrating into the sump. secondly a breathing pipe must to have a brush piece (oil separator) inside to catch an oil drops and to prevent their suction in suction manifold. sometimes when this brush piece got blocked/clogged -- no breathing effect is available in engine and the same effect (you have now) is available. now you have two enemies: possible blocked oil separator and cylinder wear down. Cheers/Igor Thanks Igor. I have changed the oil regularly, with filter, since I owned this in '03 with 38K on. It now has 83K. It's been so reliable & trouble free that I can't bear to spend about £6-7K for something with more miles on & probably more hassle /cost! I think it may be the sealing washers on the cover beneath the domed nuts. I had a new cam belt fitted earlier in the year and I guess that they just replaced the gasket for the mating faces. vmax1
  3. See attached. Unfortunately I had wiped this earlier this afternoon but there is usually a small amount of oil laying in the recessed area of the domed nut & misting on the plastic filter(?) behind the cover. Also a film of oil on the other side of the cover is evident. Thanks, Vmax1.
  4. hi mate photo of weeping spot please. Cheers See attached. Unfortunately I had wiped this earlier this afternoon but there is usually a small amount of oil laying in the recessed area of the domed nut & misting on the plastic filter(?) behind the cover. Also a film of oil on the other side of the cover is evident. Thanks, Vmax1.
  5. Dearest All, My old faithful '99 GS (7A-FE engine) has developed an oil weep at the filler cap end on the top of the cam cover. I have retorqued the domed nuts but it still continues to weep oil in that area. Before I investigate further, can anyone tell me if the cover washers have a "rubber" lower washer and are these oil filler caps prone to failure? (I can't see anything in my old haynes Carina manual)I ask because I'm not sure if the weep's coming from/through the cap or through the washers. The top of the cap seems to have a film of oil on it too. I have flipped the filler cap O Ring but it has made no difference. There doesn't appear to be a problem with the mating faces of the cover to the head. Any help is appreciated. Vmax1
  6. Hi Yaris-Jo, My daughter's T Sport (2003) has 21" (D) and 15" (P) blades. I believe that all Yaris engines have cam chains, the T Sport has anyway, so no worries there. I can't see a fuel filter in the tradional sense but it may be the black oval shaped cannister located right next to the bulk head. Thanks for reminding me, her Yaris has done 106000, with very little regular maintenance, so I'll need to look at that soon! Regards, vmax1
  7. Hi Paul, It maybe that all the dry weather we have had lately has initiated this noise. I usually treat all rubber bushes/mountings with silicon spray before I look elsewhere and I usually do this every time I have a wheel off. Just ensure that joints/bushes are clean before spraying, I usually hose down these areas first to ensure that the road grit/dirt is removed. With regard to safety if rubber is split or missing even ( as on my daughters Yaris last year!) then get garage to take a look. If it doesn't look right then it probably is an issue. Regards, vmax1
  8. Graeme, I can't really say but I would guess that the whole door panel has to be removed otherwise you may cause cosmetic damage. Have you posted this query on the Carina forum? Maybe worth a try.
  9. Hi Graeme, I have not had to do this on my car but if they are similar to the Carina (from which they evolved)then the door panel has to be removed to access the multiplug. To access mounting screws i think you prise of the triangular trim from the inner door. Don't forget to disconnect the battery first. Let me know how things progress. Regards, vmax1
  10. All turned out relatively simple in the end. Caliper slides have been cleaned & treated to rubber grease and are now "floating" as they should and not binding anymore. Regards, Vmax1
  11. Thanks for your response Cookie-monster. I think that the handbrake on this model has seprate small drum brake set up and the caliper is independant. I'll take apart this morning anyway as I'm not sure if it's prperly seized or just not floating as easily as it should. Regards, Vmax1
  12. I need to take my daughter's rear caliper apart on her 03 T Sport. Can anyone point me to an assembly drawing of the caliper? Thanks Vmax1
  13. vmax1


    Hi, I need to replace the drivers door window seal on my '99 Avensis. Has anyone done this and can pass on any advice/tips? I thought that I may be able to slide this in beneath the door panel with a aid of silicon spray but it looks like I may have to take out the door panel etc to do a good job :( Any comment would be appreciated. Thanks vmax1
  14. vmax1

    Spark Plugs

    I've just changed the spark plugs on my '99 Avensis and had concerns about using the torque figures stated in the Haynes manual. I was cautious torquing to the 18 Nm stated having changed plugs on alloy m/cycle heads over the years. I've torqued to about 13Nm I assume that the head is made of alloy. Is it OK to go to the full 18Nm?
  15. Hi Bassett19, I had this problem, the switch illuminated but there was no de-misting taking place. The blade connectors soldered to the screen heater had become detached. I did try some conductive adhesive but this was unsuccessful. I didn't enquire how much a new screen was, I just manage with the air con now. I hope you can repair yours! vmax1