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IainM

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Everything posted by IainM

  1. Tyre and exhaust dealers were notorius for trying to ramp up work but a main dealer will/should base their replacement criteria on the mileage the vehicle will be expected to travel before they see it again so I can`t see a problem if you explain that if replacement is necessery you`d like to do the work yourself and they would amend the service history accordingly. Found something that says the fronts are 26mm with a 2mm wear limit & the rears are 10mm with 1.5mm wear limit. Time to take the wheels off & get the micrometer out
  2. Yep, you will find that you set the level when the lights are off and then set it again when the lights are on & it will remember the setting for each. Personally I find the dimmed setting a bit too dim at night so I have them both set at max I think. Not ideal, but that's the way it is.
  3. Don`t you have much trust in your garage Iain ? :) Last main dealer that told me I needed to change my discs & pads urgently was wrong by , oh a mere 32,000 miles :rolleyes::) (Not a Toyota dealer though). I've had two other instances of similar including a well known tyre shop who tried to tell me they weren't going to allow me to take my car until I'd paid them to change the front pads :censor: :censor: (which had about 5mm left on them, I usually change them at somewhere between 2 & 4mm) Its also one of those jobs I'm happy to DIY & you can do so whilst still mainting a fully stamped service book
  4. Does anyone happen to know the new & minimum thickness of the brake discs on a 2006 2.2 D4D verso? Mine's due in for a service soon & I'd like to measure them & know how much life is left in the brakes before I send it in. On which subject has anyone ever experimented with different brake pads & managed to improve the braking performance on a Verso? In comparison to my last VW & my current BMW, the Verso's brakes seem to be made of soft cheese!
  5. IainM

    Towbar Height

    I had the same problem with my detachable Westfalia - and they didn't want to know about it being too high either. The fact is that it is inside the allowable range despite the fact that it practically had the back end of my Erde trailer dragging on the ground! (slight exageration but you get the picture!) My solution was to get a piece of box section steel to add to the drawbar of my trailer so as to raise up the tow hitch. Had to add 60mm to it to make the trailer sit more or less level. Once we did that it tows pretty well at speed with a load on.
  6. IainM

    Towbar Advice

    I have a Westfalia detachable towbar on my 2006/56 Verso. it required a very small bumper cut at the bottom edge (i.e. no socking great hole through the middle). The cut is only maybe 1" x 2.5" at most. I fitted it myself, it was very easy to cut with a small hacksaw & then I finished it off with a small sanding drum on a dremel. The bumper is pretty soft plastic, its not brittle at all. I fitted mine a couple of years ago but I recall there were no detachable towbars made to fit the Verso that didn't need a bumper cut. The towbar is fine except that the ball height comes in at the very top end of the range in terms of height. I had to get a piece added to the drawbar of my trailer to raise the tow hitch up so that the trailer was level. Once level the thing tows very well. I've towed a trailer full of camping gear with 4 bikes on top of it at sensible speeds across France twice now. If you tow a lot of weight (400+kg) the Verso's brakes are a bit suspect if you have to stop suddenly though..... Tow ball height shouldn't be an issue with a bike carrier obviously.
  7. IainM

    Egr Valve

    Its a good place to start & you can DIY. Ask the dealer to do it & you're going to get a £75+ bill. Try not to drop too much of the cack down into the manifold though - just go slowly and scoop it out. Don't over tighten the bolts when you put it back together.
  8. What grade of oil have you topped it up with & are you seeing excessive oil consumption? Use nothing other than 5W30. There are known issues with oil consumption on the Diesels & Toyota will get involved if its using more than it should. Have you noticed any increase in fuel consumption? Has the EGR valve been checked/cleaned out? Oh and don't use supermarket diesel. Use good quality fuel, preferably Shell or BP.
  9. IainM

    Egr Valve

    Here you go: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97232&view=findpost&p=906588 Easy but mucky job, needs a can of carb cleaner, a box of latex gloves , loads of paper towls & an old toothbrush! (Be careful with the gaskets when you take it off).
  10. +1 - Winter tyres are what you want. These are not just for Snow - they start working better than normal tyres below about 7 deg C. Something like some Vredestein Snowtracs. Get them put on a standard set of steel rims or a cheap set of alloys off ebay Alternatively buy a package from this lot : http://www.mytyres.co.uk/Steel_wheels.html
  11. I don't know how difficult it is to get to the waterpump on a Verso but firstly it can be cheaper just to replace the pump than to have the old one rebuilt and secondly I would definitly avoid putting anything like rad-weld etc in the cooling system, not a good idea at all. I would also get it sorted though because the next step is the seal will give way and when it does it'll drop a lot of coolant pretty quickly - probably when you have the engine under load and when its least convenient , like climbing a hill in the middle of nowhere at two o'clock in the morning!!
  12. Any use? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/install/toyota/corolla-verso-04.html
  13. I've got the air vent one that goes just to the left of the steering wheel. Its in the best place IMO but it keeps coming loose a bit on one side - need to fix that.
  14. Don't know the specifics of how the verso calipers work but when I replace pads & need to move the pistons back I always attach a bleed hose & open the bleed nipple to let the fluid out there rather than pushing it back through & up into the reservoir (and risk that overflowing)
  15. Just a note to my regular/closest/local dealer: My car is going to another dealer for its 30K/4 year service on Friday. This is because when I ring you up to ask about the price of a service I do not subsequently expect to find that what you tell me needs to cost £400 actually is done for £300 by at least two other dealers Furthermore I do not expect to find that part of what you want me to pay to have done isn't even scheduled to be done until either 40K miles or 6 years and that therefore what I need to get done now actually will cost just £240. Lastly, I am not interested in you "price matching". I expect that in return for me being a loyal/regular customer that when I ring you up to ask for a service price I get given a competitive and correct price and that you don't waste my time (or yours) by, for want of a better term, trying to rob me of over £100. :censor: I shouldn't be surprised I suppose - the same dealer offered me a trade in of about £7.5K against my last Verso. Traded it at another dealer for nearer £10K. B) It pays to make some calls. That is all, rant over. (I feel better now :) )
  16. not in paris there not,lots of cobbles,that sort your rattles out. Paris purposefully avoided at all costs ! :P The Motorways down to the west coast from Calas via Le Mans are brilliant - hundres of miles of road of the quality of the M6 Toll. Its a disgrace that in a country that's a geologically stable as the UK (i.e. no earthqaukes to speak of!) that our roads are as bad as they are. I drove up the M4 near Reading the other day and there are tramlines an inch deep !
  17. I've seen it done, but only a very small one. The Verso is no good for towing weights & to be honest I don't think its brakes are up to towing heavy loads anyway. I've towed a trailer full of camping gear + bikes on top of the trailer with mine halfway across France twice now & it was fine on the motorways. I reckon my trailer + bikes weighs about 350Kg & the car will tow it at 70+mph all day long (made much easier by the state of French roads which are like a billiard table in comparison to those on this side of the ditch ! )
  18. Thanks for that. This is something that has only started in the last week or so - it sounds like a complete bag of spanners when its cold - much worse than it used to. There's still a hint of a rattle when its warm as well I think - or I may just be being paranoid on that one! 95% of the fuel that goes in it is Shell - in fact its got VPower in it at the moment.... Anyway it's booked in for a service next week so we shall see what they say. On which subject,, Shop around! First dealer I rang quoted me £340 for 30K/4yr service & an extra £60 to change the brake fluid. Two others were about £230 all in. No guesses as to where its NOT going!
  19. My 56 plate (30K Mile)2.2 D4D is sounding like a bag of spanners (and I think down on power) when its cold. After its been running for a few minutes (less than 5) it seems to get its act together & all is fine. If it was a petrol engine I'd say it was running on 3 cylinders ! Its due a service in the next month & I cleaned the EGR out recently (which was new at the last service). Any clues as to what the issue might be? Just back from a 1600 mile round trip to France in it again & aside from this its running very well indeed.
  20. 1) Probably not - you really can't prove the thing has never been run out of oil (and that's basically what will cause this kind of failure). The only other possible cause might be a malfunctioning oil pump or blocked oil galleries. You state that the engine has never been low on oil, no leaks or blue smoke etc. How often do you check it? Has it ever been below the minimum mark on the dipstick? There were people posting in another thread on this forum recently about being surprised by the oil warning light coming on (albeit on Diesel engines). If your oil gets that low either you are having a catastrophic failure or its just plain old neglect. 2) Bottom end bearing failures are not that common on any engine at 50K miles if its has enough oil, the oil is clean enough, the pump is working & the oil ways are sound. 3) It would seem unlikely you'd get much for it without a working engine. Hope you manage to get it resolved at reasonable cost. I would take it to a Toyota dealer though just to make sure what you are being told is right. It may be as obvious as apples on a tree, but without hearing it I couldn't say & sadly there are plenty of people in the motor trade who would be only to happy to sell you an unnecessary engine rebuild.
  21. CV joint? Look for a lot of nasty sticky grease around the inside of the wheel.
  22. Yr welcome mate and well done. My EGR was new less than a year ago and while not completely blocked it was bad when I cleaned it out. I am thinking I'm going to be going in there at least every 6 months from now on - more regularly if it never sees a motorway. An "Italian tune-up" (down the motorway in 3rd or 4th gear at about 4500 RPM) for 5 minutes probably wouldn't do it any harm either. That'll clean the valves up & burn more cack out the turbo. Just be sure to run it around gently for a few miles to let everything cool down properly afterwards - don't just turn it off & make sure it has plenty of oil in it before you do it.
  23. How are you measuring that? If its just off the computer then its very low. If its a real calculation of miles driven vs fuel used then its a bit low. Two things to check, firstly make sure your tyres are pumped up correctly (36 F/35 R if I recall correctly)& secondly get your EGR valve cleaned out (see recent threads on how to do it). If you can wield a spanner its not difficult & it'll take you 30 minutes & a can of carb cleaner & that will probably improve things no end - especially if you are doing a lot of short journeys. Messy job (wear latex gloves - you'll need several pairs!) but worth doing. If you can't do it yourself then any competent local garage should be able to do it for you.
  24. Just put a set of Michelin Energy Savers on mine (cos they were 20% off at Costco). You can use either the Primacys or the Energy Savers. It had the (I think) original Dunlops on it which had managed about 27K, so not too bad. The Michelins seem fine, after all, its a bus, not a Lamborghini :P:) If you just buy 2 tyres they will always put the new ones on the rear & move the rears to the front. If you are planning to keep the car then I'd buy Michelins every time - they last way , way longer than anything else. Just took a set off another car (a VW) that had done 37K Heard some not very positive feedback about Energy Savers, particularly with regards to performance in wet conditions, hence the preference to Primacy HP's. Not sure how long the Dunny's have lasted as I've only owned the car for 7 months and put 6K on it. But as I'm planning to keep the car for a while, I want a reputable tyre with good all round performance, given its primary mission is to cart around Mrs pumbaa and pumbaa jnr..... In fairness, on Blackcircles, the price differential between Michelins and other brands, even mid-range brands, is now insignificant. Will check out prices at Costco nearer the time as I'm going to wait until mid September before fitting as its not urgent, more precautionary for the coming winter. Well, they're on the thing now! I'd be surprised if there was a noticeable difference in (wet or dry) tyre "performance" between the ES's & The PHPs on a bus like the Verso. Either way they are certainly not "ditch finders"! Not sure whether the ES's are doing as claimed re the fuel mileage - but then again I've only just cleaned out the EGR valve on my car (its a diesel) & that does seemed to have made a significant difference in that regard. Got mine from Costco on the "20% off for a set of 4" deal they do from time to time. Came to about 280 quid for the set which is cheap for Michelins.
  25. Just put a set of Michelin Energy Savers on mine (cos they were 20% off at Costco). You can use either the Primacys or the Energy Savers. It had the (I think) original Dunlops on it which had managed about 27K, so not too bad. The Michelins seem fine, after all, its a bus, not a Lamborghini :P:) If you just buy 2 tyres they will always put the new ones on the rear & move the rears to the front. If you are planning to keep the car then I'd buy Michelins every time - they last way , way longer than anything else. Just took a set off another car (a VW) that had done 37K
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