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Everything posted by MyV6Flys

  1. It sounds like the trany screen is clogged and needs changed out. Check the fliud if it is not low, my guess is the screen is clogged. I had a old plymoth with a slant 6 that I starting having to do the same thing with. One supper cold moring it would not go at all. So I dropped the pan, changed out the screen and about 6-8 quarts of fluid. Worked fine after that.... It seems to work fine after some driving cause the system finally pressureizes up, enough fluid gets by the screen as the fluid warms up and thins to get up in the trany. At least that was my problem. I bet your fluid is no longer bright red either.
  2. I would drain some out of the raditor, then look-feel for grit or what ever in the water. I don't know why it would be brown. So look for grit, if yes, it could be the water pump talking to you. Look around the belts also. make sure a small piece of tape or something is not bouncing off them.
  3. I'm thinking the clutch slave cylinder down by the trany has a leak. Depending on how bad the leak is, you may be able to fill the resivore with fluid. find the slave cylinder, it has a bleader screw on it. Have some one press the clutch peddle to the floor, they have to hold it there, while they hold it, you loosen the bleader screw. Air and stuff should puff-spirt-shoot out. Now tighten the bleader, tell the person in the truck it's ok to replease the clutch. Now have them push it back in and hold it, you blead, tighten, they release. Do that till only fluid comes out when you turn the bleader. It should be good for a few shifts now. It is leaking and the time it will work is limited. But you can get it back home if your not too far Most Likely. I would suggest you have the person in the truck work the peddle a few times as you watch for the leak. If it's a big leak, you may not make it anywhere. Good Luck.
  4. I have a 97 3.0 V6 1MZ, I have put 40,000 on it with no problems. I have had the timming belt changed and a valve job done. Other than gas and tires I just drive the thing. I would suggest this model to my own mom.
  5. if the smoke is white, it's anti-freeze most likely a head gasket. if it's blue or black, time to do a compression test. Oil is gettign by the rings or the valves. Do you have many miles on the motor?
  6. if there is power going from the coil to the dist, but no spark coming out of the dist. the Condinser is bad. Small round thing that has a wire that hooks to the points.
  7. Most likely one of the front tires are bad or out of balance or just low on air. Try swaping the front and back tires places, then drive it. If that fixes the problem, get the back tires looked at.
  8. The rotor is the shinny ring like thing the brake pads press on to stop the car. In most cases you can't see it. But from what you describe, it sounds the the rotor is wraped. My 97 Camery did that and when braking down hills it almost seemed like it wanted to jump over into the next lane. Don't wait to long to fix it, as the shaking is not good for front end linkage stearing parts.
  9. When you pull your starter out, ensure that your connection to the case is clean.. You can use rubbing alcohol to clean it up.. Have you used an amp meter to find out how many amps your starter is drawing upon start? You could have a bad wire in the car somewhere.. Also, check your fuses for corrosion and moisture.. ← Ok, the battery has terminal ends that hook to the battey, from there, there are wires that run to places around the car. make sure were the battery wires hook into the terminal ends is clean. The starter is ticking becuase not enough power is getting to it. You have a new battery, so it shouldn't be a problem. But if the wires that hook to the terminals are dirty, you will never get enough power to spin the battery. Yes it did when they replaced the battery, but is becuase they moved the battery wires around switching out the batteries. Cleaning up the crap built up where the big Red wire hooks into the thing that goes on the battery. Of course it could be ground related. I had to buy new ends, cut the red wire, install it in new ends, then rehook to battery. Problem solved.
  10. The 31st will be my last day on the site, just wanted to say bye to a few I've tried to help. Sorry to the few I sent chasing the wrong thing. Enjoy your cars all. MyV6Fly's.
  11. Ok, Cork, rubber, fiberglass.....what ever it is.... It's steal not as good as steel. :D
  12. Could be fuel pump or filter. It does not take much gas for a car to idle, but when you put it in gear more gas is needed. As now the trany puts a draw on the motor, so it needs to draw more gas to stay running. If it's not getting enough gas it will run ruff or miss, slip it back in park or N and it idles fine as there is less gas required by the motor again. Do you have a timming light?? You can test your spark plugs wires to see if there all getting spark. Just hook it up and move the clamp thing you put on #1 wire to all the wires not just #1. All should have a constant light flash. If a flash is missing the car is missing. So test your wires for spark, if the light flashes every beat and you gapped the plugs correctly before you put them in. Then it almost has to be gas dilevery causing the ruff motor.
  13. My 97 is the same way, but with the eletronic trany on it, it still shifts into gear smoothly.
  14. The metal will way outlive the gaskets. Even if they get a little oily they don't rot like cork type gaskets do. Consider it a good investment.
  15. The TPS hooks to a butterfly flap in the throttle body. If that flap is not moving free it will case problems. Pull the hose off coming from the air filter and look inside at the flap. You can move it with your fingures to see how freely it moves and retruns back to closed. Sometimes stuff will build up there, stopping it from moving freely.
  16. I don't see where you reset the computer to get read of the code in the first palce after replacing the thing. If you have not reset it, it will not go away.
  17. Does it have a cold start injector?? that would be my first guess. It supplies axtra gas when the motor is first started. The fact it jumps to 2 grand sound like a vac-leak. Timing is most likely ok, as you same it runs great when it is getting gas. You have spark because it runs. So something is happening to the gas getting to the motor. The TPS or IAC could also cause problems liek you describe.
  18. Sounds like a fuel dilevery problem. It has spark as it fires and runs till it burns what it has. Check your fuel filter and pump. Then injectors.
  19. I also live in the USA, haynes books are sold at most autoparts dealers. They tend to be a little vage in some spots, but them most books do. They cover the whole car not just parts of it. Call a couple local parts stores.
  20. p1133 = air/fuel sensor circute slow to respond. bank 1
  21. MyV6Flys


    I would suggest just typing 3S-GTE in a search engine. Yahoo, msn what ever. I found out a lot about my 1MZ-FE that way.
  22. wires can and do go bad. Before you buy some, it might be worth going out and pulling and replacing the wires. ONE at a time, pull a plug wire then put it back on, goto the next wire and do the same thing. Then go back to the coil or Dist-cap and do the same thing. Some times they get juck built up between the spark plug and the wire, kind of like battery wires do. You might also lift the hood and start the car when it is dark out, look for any sparks or lights flasging. That would be the spark leaking out of the wire Before it gets to the spark plug.
  23. First guess, check the air filter, if it's not getting enough air it can't fire up. The air filter should be white and see through when held to a light. Second guess, how old are the spark plugs? and such parts?
  24. For the most part squeeking brakes are from the pads getting a smooth surface, if you look at them they are shinny and reflect light some what. The best fix is to replace the pads or shoes, to test if it is the shoes being smooth. Pull the drum off and get some sandpaper or wire brush and sand or brush the shine off the shoe to it is dull again. Put the drum back on and try driving/stopping. If it goes away, then the shoes need changed and the inside of the drum also needs cleaned before they are put back on. As some of the junk that messed up the last shoes may still be on the metal and will infect the new shoes as well.
  25. The shaking you feeling going down hills braking is worped rotors. The big round shinny thing the brakes grab onto. If you feel for it, you will feel it stopping at lights and what not also. Just softer, so there is a problem there, even if the pads are good. When the rotors are changed the pads should also be changed.
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