St Thicket

Sorry, but I am sold out of boards, and I am unable to produce new ones due to a hard drive failure. I sold my car in 2012, so I don't have access to the board. I don't even own a Toyota anymore ☺️ I know there is a user here on the forum called tsavman that is currently trying to replicate my project. You should PM him.

Yes, I do. Please PM me, and we can discuss the details in private.

I'm not very active on this forum anymore, so please PM me if anyone wants a PCB plus necessary components. I still have at least 3 PCBs left.

If you buy that standard part i mentioned in the thread you quoted, you get an opening for a standard Toyota shaped stereo system. Then to be able to fit a 2-din or a 1-din stereo, simply buy one that looks like this: http://budgetcaraudio.co.uk/ds-ebay/products/fascia/FP-11-03.jpg But anyway, go to your Toyota dealer and get that original part first, and then get the DIN fascia (if you don't already have one)

Today when I was about to wash the car at the gas station, I obviously needed to unscrew the aerial. Suddenly the whole base cracked, resulting in a hole where the aerial should have been. The threaded base was stuck on the aerial... F¤#K! So now I have to change the whole thing... which made me think about options I have. Have anyone tried to change the aerial to a DAB compatible one? Are the wires compatible on non-OEM aerials, so that I can use the existing cable? I have a DAB unit connected to my Pioneer head unit, but today the reception is not very good. I would like to have a proper aerial installed when I now have to undo the inner roof. I would appreciate any advice on this, since I have never done anything like this before.

Yes indeed Anchorman. We made use of it the day after we recieved it. I'm sure i must have told you about it before. Anyway, the mitsu is a great car, but feels a bit cheap when closing the doors. It has a sound to it that I used to hear on my moms mid '90s corolla. The space is tremendous though, the audio system is really nice, and the comfort is good. We'll take another one of those epic road trips this summer. Looking forward to testing it out :)

The tree was secured on the inside of the boot, an the boot lid was secured with wire. From the picture, it might appear that there were brances sticking out to the side of the vehicle, but that was never the case. Also it might appear that the tree was rubbing the asfalt, but it was not. I am very aware of road safety, and in this situation i was never in doubt if this was safe or not. The tree was transported just a few miles, and there were no damage on neither the car nor the tree. (Or anything/anyone else)

Went by the gardening store today and picked up a plum tree... The split tailgate on my Outlander is superb! I just had to brag :P

Yeah, kind of... facelift use three wires. Prefacelift use only two. Also, it's not a ladder, just fixed resistors for each button. I've made it to work on pioneer only, but believe it is possible to adapt it for other manufacturers as well.

Modified stalk has now been mounted and tested. Works perfectly! Some pictures: PCB with components. Switches are taken from an old CD player. PCB assembled. Notice that the green PCB is the original board that I've just transferred. Also notice the socket for the plug that I've transferred from the old PCB. Unit fully assembled. Plugs straight into the OEM plug. Wire for my Pioneer. It connects the tip and ground pin to the stalk. Plug for the stalk is located. Wires attached Works like a charm!

I'm still not convinced. Did you have a stalk next to your steering wheel, or did you have buttons on the front of the steering wheel? Did the converter use 3 wires for the interface, or was it just 2? If you could point me to the particular product or manufacturer, then I would appreciate it!

Now, the PCBs have arrived. I did a quick fitment test, and they fit nicely... I ordered 8 PCBs, and got them quite cheaply since there is only one copper layer, no silk screen and no solder mask. I have also found switches that can be used, but unfortunately I haven't found a replacement socket for the plug. That means the plug on the old stalk must be taken off and placed on this new PCB. I'll do the fitment this weekend, and I'll show you the results!

I've owned a 2003 RAV4 diesel for 4 years, and was very satisfied with it. Be aware that the pre-facelift (2001-03) has a more noisy cabin than the facelift (2004-06). Also you don't have OBD2 interface on the pre-facelift model (only applicable if you want to do your own repairs)... Other than that, they are quite similar. I would recommend you to have a look at a 2004 facelift version rather than a 2003. However, the 2003 is still not a bad choice though.

Why cut the wires when you already have plugs? You said you had installed a parrot kit? In that case you probably have a wiring loom that has ISO plugs. Just undo the speaker plugs, and connect your amp in between. Do this of course AFTER the parrot kit, not before! Simply buy one pair of male and one pair of female ISO plugs. You get those nearly at any car stereo shop (or ebay). Make a wiring loom that goes from the HU to the amp as a signal source. Use this gender for the source (if i'm not mistaken). Then make a wiring loom for the speaker output that you run back to the parrot wiring loom. Use this gender. I did exactly this for my amplifier install. I have now a 5 channel amp, with all 4 door speakers wired through those ISO plugs. No wires were cut, so now I can restore the original HU without any hassle. This of course if I would sell my car later on, or if I get too old for having a sub (which I doubt).