St Thicket

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Everything posted by St Thicket

  1. Sorry, but I am sold out of boards, and I am unable to produce new ones due to a hard drive failure. I sold my car in 2012, so I don't have access to the board. I don't even own a Toyota anymore ☺️ I know there is a user here on the forum called tsavman that is currently trying to replicate my project. You should PM him.
  2. Yes, I do. Please PM me, and we can discuss the details in private.
  3. I'm not very active on this forum anymore, so please PM me if anyone wants a PCB plus necessary components. I still have at least 3 PCBs left.
  4. If you buy that standard part i mentioned in the thread you quoted, you get an opening for a standard Toyota shaped stereo system. Then to be able to fit a 2-din or a 1-din stereo, simply buy one that looks like this: http://budgetcaraudio.co.uk/ds-ebay/products/fascia/FP-11-03.jpg But anyway, go to your Toyota dealer and get that original part first, and then get the DIN fascia (if you don't already have one)
  5. Today when I was about to wash the car at the gas station, I obviously needed to unscrew the aerial. Suddenly the whole base cracked, resulting in a hole where the aerial should have been. The threaded base was stuck on the aerial... F¤#K! So now I have to change the whole thing... which made me think about options I have. Have anyone tried to change the aerial to a DAB compatible one? Are the wires compatible on non-OEM aerials, so that I can use the existing cable? I have a DAB unit connected to my Pioneer head unit, but today the reception is not very good. I would like to have a proper aerial installed when I now have to undo the inner roof. I would appreciate any advice on this, since I have never done anything like this before.
  6. Yes indeed Anchorman. We made use of it the day after we recieved it. I'm sure i must have told you about it before. Anyway, the mitsu is a great car, but feels a bit cheap when closing the doors. It has a sound to it that I used to hear on my moms mid '90s corolla. The space is tremendous though, the audio system is really nice, and the comfort is good. We'll take another one of those epic road trips this summer. Looking forward to testing it out :)
  7. The tree was secured on the inside of the boot, an the boot lid was secured with wire. From the picture, it might appear that there were brances sticking out to the side of the vehicle, but that was never the case. Also it might appear that the tree was rubbing the asfalt, but it was not. I am very aware of road safety, and in this situation i was never in doubt if this was safe or not. The tree was transported just a few miles, and there were no damage on neither the car nor the tree. (Or anything/anyone else)
  8. Went by the gardening store today and picked up a plum tree... The split tailgate on my Outlander is superb! I just had to brag :P
  9. Yeah, kind of... facelift use three wires. Prefacelift use only two. Also, it's not a ladder, just fixed resistors for each button. I've made it to work on pioneer only, but believe it is possible to adapt it for other manufacturers as well.
  10. Modified stalk has now been mounted and tested. Works perfectly! Some pictures: PCB with components. Switches are taken from an old CD player. PCB assembled. Notice that the green PCB is the original board that I've just transferred. Also notice the socket for the plug that I've transferred from the old PCB. Unit fully assembled. Plugs straight into the OEM plug. Wire for my Pioneer. It connects the tip and ground pin to the stalk. Plug for the stalk is located. Wires attached Works like a charm!
  11. I'm still not convinced. Did you have a stalk next to your steering wheel, or did you have buttons on the front of the steering wheel? Did the converter use 3 wires for the interface, or was it just 2? If you could point me to the particular product or manufacturer, then I would appreciate it!
  12. Now, the PCBs have arrived. I did a quick fitment test, and they fit nicely... I ordered 8 PCBs, and got them quite cheaply since there is only one copper layer, no silk screen and no solder mask. I have also found switches that can be used, but unfortunately I haven't found a replacement socket for the plug. That means the plug on the old stalk must be taken off and placed on this new PCB. I'll do the fitment this weekend, and I'll show you the results!
  13. I've owned a 2003 RAV4 diesel for 4 years, and was very satisfied with it. Be aware that the pre-facelift (2001-03) has a more noisy cabin than the facelift (2004-06). Also you don't have OBD2 interface on the pre-facelift model (only applicable if you want to do your own repairs)... Other than that, they are quite similar. I would recommend you to have a look at a 2004 facelift version rather than a 2003. However, the 2003 is still not a bad choice though.
  14. Why cut the wires when you already have plugs? You said you had installed a parrot kit? In that case you probably have a wiring loom that has ISO plugs. Just undo the speaker plugs, and connect your amp in between. Do this of course AFTER the parrot kit, not before! Simply buy one pair of male and one pair of female ISO plugs. You get those nearly at any car stereo shop (or ebay). Make a wiring loom that goes from the HU to the amp as a signal source. Use this gender for the source (if i'm not mistaken). Then make a wiring loom for the speaker output that you run back to the parrot wiring loom. Use this gender. I did exactly this for my amplifier install. I have now a 5 channel amp, with all 4 door speakers wired through those ISO plugs. No wires were cut, so now I can restore the original HU without any hassle. This of course if I would sell my car later on, or if I get too old for having a sub (which I doubt).
  15. Upgrading door speakers shouldn't be too difficult. You should however get a proper speaker adapter fitted, or using the old speakers as adapters. I believe that the existing wires should be sufficient to contain the power. I doubt that you could ever consume 100W of power per door speaker without the door falling off or blood coming from your ears. I have 100W on my 12" subwoofer, and I haven't cranked it up to half yet. I'm afraid it would unbolt the wheels or something. Anyway, original wires should be left untouched. That will save you from lots of problems later. I bought some ISO plugs that I used for wiring my amp to the original car harness, together with a parrot harness that converted from Toyota to ISO wiring and back again. I used 1,5 mm2 cables for the door speakers, and 2,5 mm2 for the sub. That's more than enough! Don't bother using more, unless you have installed a nuclear power plant in your boot. To get a signal to your amp, unless you have high power input on it, you need to get a line converter. Get one with ISO plugs, or attach an ISO plug to it. Good luck!
  16. Not that I am aware of. I wouldn't buy this car if I was interested in driving offroad. It is a city/suburb car that will perform good in bad driving conditions... not for driving in terrain. I know that VW Tiguan can be delivered with different bumpers though. I'll do a spritmonitor on this one as soon as I start filling regularily. I've always liked the 3-door RAV4.2! I considered getting one as a 2nd car, but ended up getting my Corolla. It's a shame that they quit making 3-door RAVs!
  17. I see your points. The car is more like an estate in many ways, and that was just what we wanted. If we couldn't find a suitable SUV, then an estate with 4wd would be the next alternative. My wife is the one prefering the SUV feeling, while I value a low stable car. We even tried the Subaru Outback, and found that it was a nice compromise. The Subaru was however more expensive and the interior was a bit too conservative. The Outlander behaves a lot like a low estate, because it has a low point of gravity. Speaking of personality; the Oulander has a split personality, one called the c-crosser and the other called the 4007. But I don't think many cars today have a personality. At least not new cars. My old 1984 Nissan Cherry GTT had, but that was more a bad temper. Wasn't too happy about starting on a cold morning, and decided to blow out lots of smoke if it did start. I have the interior that is part leather. That means leather on the dashboard and doors, and just a few places on the seat. I think that is quite nice. Tho get the leather seats, i had to get the 7 seater which in Norway costs £5000 more that our model. We had to pay £43000 for our Outlander, and that included £16000 in taxes! insane, I know! Anyway, the interior is very standard. I like the split rear door which is very practical, and I think there are a lot of features and gadgets that are nice. The seats are harder than what Toyota makes, but they are comfortable still. The steering servo is heavier than on Toyota, but that doesn't bother me either.
  18. Notice that there are two different alloys on the top picture. The front one is the summer alloy, because the winter alloy is being refitted with a new tyre shortly. I got the summer alloys off "ebay" for 1/3rd of the original price, which I'm very satisfied with These alloys only come with the premium edition, while my edition is the mid-range, but includes sat nav and bi-xenon with turnable lights. Notice the MIVEC on the engine cover. That engine is just brilliant!
  19. No it's not, since it is placed on the underside of the boot.
  20. My new Outlander arrived on thursday, and I've driven it for about 60km. That's not far enough to really get to know it properly, but I see now that this is a car that I will be satisfied with! The main thing about this car is the VERY nice engine, that is really quiet. And has a LOT of torque. It I can accelerate even if the revvs are just above 1000rpm, and when approaching 2500rpms, it releases the beast inside and keeps accelerating beyond 4000! This is something I've never experienced with a diesel before, at least not that kind of power. Maybe it is the Variable valve timing that does this? Another thing I experienced is the gear box. It is a 6 speed, and the car tells me to shift to a higher gear all the time. Tends to want me to do 1300 rpm all the time, even if I'm driving upphill! Still, there's a lot of torque! Also the first gear has a ratio that kind of makes it suitable as the low gear that you find on REAL 4x4s. The first gear isn't really for accelerating, just to get the car moving a little, and then when I shift to second, then the beast comes (given that I accelerates hard). The funny thing is that we had to use the spare wheel already yesterday! My whife called me and said: "I am standing in the inside lane on the f***ing motorway, and the tyre is f***ing flat!" I told her to calm down and localise the spare wheel She actually did manage to change the wheel, which makes me proud of her Anyway, it seems that the people at the dealers that changed the tyres had managed to not close the vent properly, so the tyre had become flat very slowly. Wonder how that can happen? Shouldn't a tyre guy (or girl) that works with tyres all day managed to do their job properly? Anyway, they'll give us a new tyre, so no worries. So that's my first experiences with my new ride.
  21. Thank you so much guys! I really appreciate it! shcm: The Norwegian phrase was correct. Thank you. I will celebrate this weekend with a deer steak! So there you were very close Anyway, today I will be picking up my new ride, which is not a RAV. I am however sure that I will be having a new RAV again. I will still be looking through this forum once in a while, bragging about how my new Outlander rules over the RAV in all ways.
  22. Looks like the base for this model is the amerikan version, with the long wheel base. I doubt that this vehicle will ever be available for european buyers... It was VERY ugly if you ask me!
  23. Before I leave the RAV4 forum, I wanted to share with you my way of replacing the OEM speakers with new 6.5" plus tweeters. I did this mod in 2007 or something, but i took these pictures last weekend, when preparing my RAV for its new owner. Here's the original speaker. Notice that the cone and the center magnet is removed. I just used a saw to remove the center magnet, and since it is all plastic, its very easy! Here's a closer look. Notice that I the OEM connector is used. I just soldered some new wires to the old speaker connector. Here's an overview: Here's the speaker mounted on top of the old speaker housing: Also, this is how i mounted the tweeter. No sweat! There might be some slight fitment problems of the inner door cover, but I simply trimmed some of the plastic that surrounds the speaker, and voila... fits nicely. If there are any questions, just let me know! I sold my car last wednesday, and now looking forward to recieving my Outlander in a couple of weeks... I thought this small guide might be helpful for anyone wanting improved sound in their RAV. I would anyway recommend adding tweeters, because the absence of treble makes it hard to hear voices on the radio.