N20

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N20 last won the day on May 14 2010

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About N20

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    Club Member

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  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    MR2 Roadster
  1. I saw on the MR2 roadster club people talking about these here: http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=29619&p=452193 Mine were in tact so I decided to leave them alone.
  2. Loving my new TTE exhaust + decat

  3. I needed some new clamps to fix the two TTE tips to the silencer as one tip was loose due to a rusted clamp. Took me a long time searching online for the clamps, eventually found the clamps. All the forums I was looking at said the 'euro car parts' part number is 712770690 however this is the old part number and is no longer available. The are now part number: 712745101 £3.36 for both including VAT. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.
  4. I found a local componey that was willing to do it for £40 however I managed to find a new clock that was as near as makes no difference, the same mileage. So its all good now, she just needs the recon engine throwing in and she will be back on the market.
  5. I found the problem but now have another problem. The fault was that the circuit board in the dash with the rev dial and warning lights has some damage on it. I have replaced the unit bu the problem is that the milage of the car has now changed. Is there any way that I can set the milage to what it should be without spending a fortune.
  6. Also as the warning light is not on, then the car door is from the cars point of view, closed. Would the car pass its MOT with this fault?
  7. I have a little problem with an MR2. The interior light and the light on the dash do not come on when either door is opened. I know the interior light bulb is intact. I checked the switches with a miltimeter and they both have power there and they both work perfectly on the multimeter. The door locks when the door is shut and beeps when the door is open. There must be a unit someware that monitors the 12V to the switches and if one goes down to ground puts the warning light on. Any Ideas where to start looking?
  8. True. and as Aki-MR2 said without the pre cats in, even if the engine leaks there is no pre-cat to be damaged so the engine is a load safer without them in. I recently gutted the pre-cats from a pre-facelift MR2 a couple of weeks ago and I just wanted to make the point of saying that it sounded a little different. Around 4000 – 5500 RPM it sounded a little more grunty. Also it sailed through a MOT after removing them so you have nothing to worry about there. Threre are instructions on how to remove them on this owners club for anyone who is interested.
  9. I sometimes break MR2's but mostly repair them. Anyway I get my parts from this guy: http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/dick2ski?ssPageName=ADME:X:CEM:GB:1181 He is a MR2 Roadster specialist (usually breaks them) and does not list everything on ebay but he always has at least one MR2 on the go. He has never let me down for parts before.
  10. The facelifts start on a 52 plate but some pre-facelifts carry on to a 03 plate. Like any facelift it is just tweaked the car to update it, It is basically the same car underneath. The pre-cats were fitted to them all but they changed the materials used so the facelift ones are a lot more reliable. Also they did other modifications to the engine / car throughout the MR2’s life. For example my car is a 04 plate and if I don’t wear my seatbelt the car doesn’t care but I sold a slightly younger 04 recently and that had audible alarms to annoy you into putting it on. There were many changes, not all can be seen as the pre-cats were one of them. The indicators were yellow and are now white Old were 5 speed new is 6 speed. The front lights were dull inside but are shiny inside like chrome now. The rear lights are different The rear alloys were 15” and 205 wide. They are now 16” and 215 wide The front bumper is different (spotlights added) The exhaust was not stainless on the pre-facelift as it is now The exhaust trim is bigger on the facelift The temperature dials are different The rear bumber inserts are different The list go’s on. There are so many differences that I you pick up on when breaking and repairing them. To put it all into a nutshell. If you have a facelift model there is a negligible chance you could have a problem. If you have a pre-facelift… Well from personal experience and the amount of people I know who have problems I would stay clear. That is just my opinion of course. However if you do buy a pre-facelift keep an eye on the engine oil level and if it drinks it take it back under guarantee. Also my last post I made a mistake.. You can carry out an interim service on the MR2 without removing any plastic under trays
  11. N20

    Need Engine!

    Try this guy, He is another MR2 specialist who has hundreds of MR2 parts (most not on ebay) he had afew engines the other week http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/dick2ski/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p3686
  12. I would check the chamber of the wheels as if it is a cat C it may be out also the tracking. I would also drop the pressure in the rear tyres to 30PSI as the 32 Toyota recommend is a little too high (IMO and that of a Pirelli engineer I deal with he said 28PSI)
  13. I have had them for around three years and find that they are reliable enough to not need to maintenance that often. Oil changes are easy. Jack the car. Remove plastic covers Undo plug (standard spanner) Drain Undo filter (filter remover reccomended) The usual ( I can do it in less than two hours easy) Spare parts are easy to get hold on on ebay. There are MR2 specialist breakers / repairers like myself up and down the country (I trade with one of them) With that kind of age MR2 (pre facelift) there is a known pre-cat fault that can potentially write the engine off. I know as I had one. There is more info on this on this site.
  14. I adjusted them back in April and now it has only been a couple of months it seems to be as bad as it was before (handbrake coming all the way up)... I don’t understand how seizing calliper’s would cause the handbrake to come up so far, however I took your last post on board and set about stripping one of my rear calipers… found the bolts were ridiculously tight and sheared one off, anyway I got the stud out now and intend on replacing the bolts on all calipers soon… anyway im not sure what part of the caliper you mean, with mine I was able to strip the pads off and easily push and pull the two main parts of the callipers that hold the pads in and out (asif braking and un-brakeing). The piston did seem tight but as there is all the brake fluid in the system I think this is normal. Any ideas? As it seems most logical to me that the cable has streached again. If it has streached that fast it surely must be due to snap. I thought the same with mine and it turned out to be the rear callipers seizing, once I freed them off, backed the handbrake adjustment right off and went for a drive giving the brakes a good stamping, then adjusted the cable back up it was as if I had fitted new, loads of adjustment left and 3-4 clicks to put the brake on. Unfortunately freeing off the callipers was only a temporary fix (lasted about 6-8 months) as they are prone to sticking when they get older, I have recently sent them all in for a full refurb to BigRed Ltd. ;) Les
  15. Brilliant advice as always... I think my cable is on its last legs as it seems i have run out of screwed rod. Thanks