Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by N20

  1. I saw on the MR2 roadster club people talking about these here: http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=29619&p=452193 Mine were in tact so I decided to leave them alone.
  2. Loving my new TTE exhaust + decat

  3. I needed some new clamps to fix the two TTE tips to the silencer as one tip was loose due to a rusted clamp. Took me a long time searching online for the clamps, eventually found the clamps. All the forums I was looking at said the 'euro car parts' part number is 712770690 however this is the old part number and is no longer available. The are now part number: 712745101 £3.36 for both including VAT. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.
  4. I found a local componey that was willing to do it for £40 however I managed to find a new clock that was as near as makes no difference, the same mileage. So its all good now, she just needs the recon engine throwing in and she will be back on the market.
  5. I found the problem but now have another problem. The fault was that the circuit board in the dash with the rev dial and warning lights has some damage on it. I have replaced the unit bu the problem is that the milage of the car has now changed. Is there any way that I can set the milage to what it should be without spending a fortune.
  6. Also as the warning light is not on, then the car door is from the cars point of view, closed. Would the car pass its MOT with this fault?
  7. I have a little problem with an MR2. The interior light and the light on the dash do not come on when either door is opened. I know the interior light bulb is intact. I checked the switches with a miltimeter and they both have power there and they both work perfectly on the multimeter. The door locks when the door is shut and beeps when the door is open. There must be a unit someware that monitors the 12V to the switches and if one goes down to ground puts the warning light on. Any Ideas where to start looking?
  8. True. and as Aki-MR2 said without the pre cats in, even if the engine leaks there is no pre-cat to be damaged so the engine is a load safer without them in. I recently gutted the pre-cats from a pre-facelift MR2 a couple of weeks ago and I just wanted to make the point of saying that it sounded a little different. Around 4000 – 5500 RPM it sounded a little more grunty. Also it sailed through a MOT after removing them so you have nothing to worry about there. Threre are instructions on how to remove them on this owners club for anyone who is interested.
  9. I sometimes break MR2's but mostly repair them. Anyway I get my parts from this guy: http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/dick2ski?ssPageName=ADME:X:CEM:GB:1181 He is a MR2 Roadster specialist (usually breaks them) and does not list everything on ebay but he always has at least one MR2 on the go. He has never let me down for parts before.
  10. The facelifts start on a 52 plate but some pre-facelifts carry on to a 03 plate. Like any facelift it is just tweaked the car to update it, It is basically the same car underneath. The pre-cats were fitted to them all but they changed the materials used so the facelift ones are a lot more reliable. Also they did other modifications to the engine / car throughout the MR2’s life. For example my car is a 04 plate and if I don’t wear my seatbelt the car doesn’t care but I sold a slightly younger 04 recently and that had audible alarms to annoy you into putting it on. There were many changes, not a
  11. Try this guy, He is another MR2 specialist who has hundreds of MR2 parts (most not on ebay) he had afew engines the other week http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/dick2ski/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p3686
  12. I would check the chamber of the wheels as if it is a cat C it may be out also the tracking. I would also drop the pressure in the rear tyres to 30PSI as the 32 Toyota recommend is a little too high (IMO and that of a Pirelli engineer I deal with he said 28PSI)
  13. I have had them for around three years and find that they are reliable enough to not need to maintenance that often. Oil changes are easy. Jack the car. Remove plastic covers Undo plug (standard spanner) Drain Undo filter (filter remover reccomended) The usual ( I can do it in less than two hours easy) Spare parts are easy to get hold on on ebay. There are MR2 specialist breakers / repairers like myself up and down the country (I trade with one of them) With that kind of age MR2 (pre facelift) there is a known pre-cat fault that can potentially write the engine off. I know as I had one. There
  14. I adjusted them back in April and now it has only been a couple of months it seems to be as bad as it was before (handbrake coming all the way up)... I don’t understand how seizing calliper’s would cause the handbrake to come up so far, however I took your last post on board and set about stripping one of my rear calipers… found the bolts were ridiculously tight and sheared one off, anyway I got the stud out now and intend on replacing the bolts on all calipers soon… anyway im not sure what part of the caliper you mean, with mine I was able to strip the pads off and easily push and pull the tw
  15. Brilliant advice as always... I think my cable is on its last legs as it seems i have run out of screwed rod. Thanks
  16. First of all you know this is a MR2 forum? I think the problem could be a few things but i would reccomend taking it to a garage to be loked at. 1. Possibly the brake pads... sometimes they can whine, if the whining comes, gets worse or goes away when you brake it is probably that and nothing to worry about. 2. It could be the pads being worn as sometimes they have a metal tag on them that rubs on the disc when they become too worn, if this is the case you might be able to see it touching the disc and the pads would need to be changed. 3. Possibly the CV joint... if the rubber boot has torn i
  17. I purchased the Walker O2 sensor you gave me the link for (250-24404) but was surprised when parcel force sent me a bill for over £20.00 for customs and what not. What a cow to install, the old sensor was so dammed tight I’m lucky it didn’t round off and the exhaust was always in the way... Anyway just have to wait and see if it cures the fault. I now have a new problem with the car... Two kids on a push bike decided to use the side of my car as a brake. Needs a new front wing, aerial and mirror not to mention scratches :( Just hope I can claim off of someone.
  18. I have not binned them. I think i will wait until the problem is cured then stick them on eBay. Typical, I change 2 of 3 sensors and the only one I have not changed is the faulty one At least i will have a shiny new set. Having looked at that website you told me about I’m not sure if the ones I already got would be long enough... I think what I will do is on Friday when I have more time I will take the cover off the bottom of the car and have a look. I think i would prefer to replace the sensor with a new one. Thanks for the help
  19. True, Better late than never... But I had already ordered that one... It gave me the code P0141 and I believe this to be the O2 sensor/s so I ordered these from ebay Yesterday I changed both the pre-cat sensors and then today the dammed light came back on. It has the same fault code P0141. So now I am going to have to change the post-cat sensor. can i use the same sensor as i used pre-cat? If not can you please reccomend me one? Thanks
  20. Yes it does... As I said I was thinking of changing all the O2 sensors as I belive they are a common cause of the CEL/EML. Just wanted to know if it was a good idea to change them. the car is nearly 8 and has 68,000 on the clock and i belive the sensors commonly last 60,000 - 100,000. There is a OBDII reader on ebay for £14.99 maybe i should get that. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/U380-OBD2-EOBD-OBD-2-diagnostic-code-Reader-Scanner-/270587523858?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f0045f312
  21. Afew days ago the engine warning light came on I have done all the basic checks and other than air filter which I replaced everything seems to be ok... I reset the Light but and it came back on, but only after I had put another 4-6 miles on the clock... The engine seems to be running just fine, no noticeable change to performance. As I dont have access to a fault code reader I was thinking of just replacing all the O2/oxygen sensors and see what happens after. Is this a good idea? I know there are many things that can trigger the CEL/EML but it is a relatively simple job and is not too expen
  22. N20

    Mr2 Aerial

    OK well, for those that try a universal aerial on a MR2... Don’t bother... I have included a detailed reason of why it did not work bellow. I tried a ‘Autoleads’ aerial that cost £30.00... Not compatible but when I took the original aerial apart I found the nylon rod had snapped... I have ordered a replacement mast with nylon rod from ebay for £20.00 so it should be good with that fitted... A detailed reason of why it did not work is because on the original aerial there are three wires earth/neutral which just goes onto the metal bracket the motor fits to and then a blue and black (with yellow
  23. N20

    Mr2 Aerial

    Thanks for the reply... Had a look on ebay and there are MR2 masts for around £20.00 but it does not come with the motor and seem as it could be the big nylon gear on the motor that has worn I think it best to replace the lot.. Talking to a guy at work and he says you can get universal ones... I just got off the phone to a local motor spares shop and they do new one for £10.00 and another for £30.00... Prefer a original part if I could get one... but even the £30.00 one is cheaper than what Toyota would charge and probably more reliable than a 2nd hand one so I might go with a brand new univer
  24. N20

    My MR2

  25. N20

    New discs

    From the album: My MR2

  • Create New...