Owdjockey

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Everything posted by Owdjockey

  1. For the brake discs you will need a tool to measure the thickness of the discs, a vernier caliper should do as along as you can get the measuring point to get over the wear lip. I use a micrometer. Needs to measure 24 - 26mm for the front and 9 - 10mm for the rear
  2. Hi, I have always changed my gearbox oil at the recommended (?) interval of 40,000 miles. Last did this back in May using Triple QX75x/90 semi-synthetic oil souced through CP4L. The job is simple, but messy. Before starting the job you need to locate the drain and filler plugs, both are 24mm. You will also need a container - a squeezy container of sorts to pump the new oil into the box, as you cannot gravity feed with the containers you are given. I use an old plastic container with an extended plastic tube, but you may be be able to get an oil pump of sorts.
  3. Hi, been using them for years and thankfully have not experienced any brake squel. Sourced them each time through ECP/CP4L.
  4. I used microfine Graphite Powder, it worked well with my Avensis. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-Powder-Lock-Lubricant-Cylinder-Car-Padlock-/142788706428?clk_rvr_id=1534302349942&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=twenga&utm_campaign=twenga&utm_param=eyJlcyI6MCwicyI6OTcyMDIzNywiY2kiOiIwM2VmZjU3NzAwOGQ2MmE5NjU2MDM0MjA1ODUzNDhhMCIsImkiOiIxNDI3ODg3MDY0MjgiLCJ0cyI6MTUyNjU4NTUyNSwidiI6Mywic28iOjE1MDAsImMiOjIwNTk0fQ%3D%3D&rmvSB=true
  5. Hi Peter, on my old d4d, the ac had packed up years ago, which is why fitted a shorter belt and bypassed the ac pulley
  6. I used the Draper N140 Splitter when I did my front hub bearing on my d4d 2.0 a few years ago. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-1x-19mm-Capacity-Ball-Joint-Separator-Professional-Tool-13914/192487425509?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dc990b7e036da480ba8b8ff804f939fb9%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D391633892516%26itm%3D192487425509&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598
  7. Hi Peter, this issue has been covered a couple of times. This is my posting from last year
  8. I had to modify my 10 ton press to take the hub of my D4D. Another tip is before pressing in the new bearing, place it ibn the freezer for a couple of hours.
  9. Hi Chris I suspect it is the same exposed area as what ultimately did for my 54 plate D4D. See my post from last year.
  10. Hi Konrad, do not wish to hijack thread, but is it true that if I disconnect my battery I will lose my satnav/radio? Unfortunately, there were no discs with the car, not even a handbook! Apparently the gentleman that previously had the car had recently died and his daughter sold the car to the dealers. The car is a 58 plate Avensis D4D TR with a B9010 Satnav unit
  11. Perhaps you might get help here? http://www.thebmwclub.org.uk/
  12. When i bought my 08 plate Tourer, the VSC light was on all the time. Cleaning the EGR valve (which was completely bunged up) made the light go out.
  13. Had a hatchback for 13 years and carted ballast, sand, metal, bricks in it. Like Konrad I carried my bike , which was not a folding version, just a tight squeeze. I also slept in the back with the seats down on many an occassion without my feet touching the rear. Now I have an 2008 Tourer, which although is the same distance in the back it has a floor level with the bumper, the old hatchback had a lip which was a pain for heavy loads. Sleeping in the back of the hatch meant also it was far lighter with all that glass (not so good in the summer). The Tourer is far more practical for a host of reasons.
  14. Thats only 3 people each weighing 66kg. I've far exceeded that weight carrying sand and metal loads in my old avensis, just take it steady and use the anchor points on your Estate to fix the load over the rear axle.
  15. Might seem a stupid idea but check there are no insects trapped in the vehicle.
  16. Hi Kenny, was the outcome of the DIY attempt? Cheers
  17. Hi The Diagnostic *.pdf file section is under Chassis and Body Repair manual on mine. It is a large file 34Mb with over 3325 pages, check your reader can handle that size of document.
  18. Thanks Guys. I was not really worried about the MOT, more about making other owners with a similar brake config aware of the exposure of this small section of brake pipe and preserving the brake pipe integrity on my own car. Other people have used various ways of covering exposed brake pipe sections, including heat shrink tubing, waxoyl, ant-rust paint. I've used beeswax, which will probably get washed away on my first wet outing!
  19. Sadly my 54 plate 2.0 D4D, which I had from new and accumulated 253,000 miles has departed. After finding I needed to replace s number of brake pipes, which was not that diffcult, I decided to look for something slightly newer. So 6 weeks ago I bought a 2008 2.0 D4D TR estate with 46k on the clock and have not regretted it yet and I doubt I will. One of the brake pipes that was severly corroded on my old avensis was a small exposed elbow on the rear brakes. The elbow has no plastic cover and is partially obscured by the inner plastic wheelarch cover. It is a real mud trap and a definite potential area for your brake pipes to corrode. I'm not sure why the elbow has no plastic cover. Anyway, I have just done the first service on my recently acquired Avensis and so made a special point on checking this particular part of the braking system. Sure enough, the brake is exactly the same configuration on my 2008 car as was on the 2004. So this is just an heads up to maybe keep an eye open when you are next under the rear wheel arch. I should say that there is an olive green protective paint on the pipes, which has small rust spots on. I decided therefore, as a temporary measure, to slap some beeswax on the exposed section until decide on a more permanent solution. Any suggestions? I know some have used waxoil. I attach a photo of the brake pipe on my 2008 avensis
  20. Owdjockey

    timing belt

    I'm on my 6th belt now, for a 54 plate d4d cd-ftv . The recommended replace mileage is 60k, every belt that I have examine looked to be in excellent condition. I'm not sure what safety tolerance is built into the 60k figure, so i'll keep replacng when they are due.
  21. Sorry Konrad, not meant as a criticism or anything. BTW up to 251,000 miles now on the 54 plate d4d
  22. Hi Thom, I posted a thread over 4 years ago, but did not get a response.
  23. Replaced my old belt this morning with a shorter one 5PK1113, DO NOT get the shorter one quoted in the first item of this topic (5PK1110) got mine from Premier Motor factors on Flea Bay. Check out http://www.premier-factors.com product code GAT5PK1113 mine cost £13.33 inc delivery. You can call them to them see which belt for need for the AD, mine is a 1CD-FTV engine. BTW, the change is quite simple simple, just remove top engine cover, remove two nuts holding the Injector driver in place and pull out of the way and slacken off the tensioner to remove the old belt and re-tension with the new belt
  24. Cheers Gaz. I'll risk it and travel. I've done abit of research and already ordered the shorter 5pk1110 belt. Many thanks again.
  25. Hi, My 54 plate d4d with 249,000 has suddenly developed some "funny" noise almost like someting is catching. Its coming from the left side of the engine, in particular around the Cooler compressor area. The engine is running fine. My a/c conditioner gave up the ghost about 6 years ago and I did bother to locate and fix the leak. So the A/c has been redundant for the last 6 years. Anyway, if i turn the AC on from inside the car, the noise disappears!! I'm off to Scotland in the morning and was hoping I could just leave the ac on for the entire journey? What could the noise be? Thanks in advance. Cheers