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wastedagen last won the day on May 7 2016

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About wastedagen

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  • Toyota Model
    Auris T-Spirit 2.0 D4D
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  1. Yes, mine already had 6 speakers installed. So I just replaced speakers using original OEM wiring.
  2. I can believe that.. Stretching the truth to make the car more saleable.....
  3. No I haven't manually worked it out yet.. Lost my receipts. Next tune.. Lol But a lot websites are giving these figures for this car As as my driving was mostly motorway. Going with extra-urban..
  4. This was from my first full tank.. This car has 50L tank where as the auris was 55L... Could've try to break 700miles but as I don't know this car I am working up to it.. Lol
  5. A valid point... [emoji106]
  6. You said it was cranking but not starting.. If it's cranking the starter is OK... If you hear nothing but a click from the starter solenoid then yes maybe, the starter needs a light tap....
  7. Thanks I got the exhaust done here And had them just change it for longevity. Bit redundant now.. Lol I did have them remove this as it wasn't needed... And I don't have a dpf, so I didn't need to worry there. I just chose a dual pipe for looks.... This was spur of the moment decision on the day.
  8. Thinking about it I should've taken some pics before getting rid of the car These are the last pics I took from my service about 2 months ago... And about 6 months ago while I was getting my new exhaust done. This was the colour of the oil when I checked the levels at 12,000 miles. It's not brilliant and if you look through the dirt on the body, lol, you can see it was still in good nick.... A reliable and trustworthy car.....
  9. Firstly thanks, I've always believed that using a good oil that exceeds Toyota spec will allow more milage between oil changes... The auris proved me right. But I do realise it does also depend on the style of driving one is doing. For me, because my commute to and from work is all motorway; I only drove about 55-60mph and never booted the car unless necessary, I never put the engine under unnecessary stress... It just poodle along. So I choose to increase the oil change intervals to suit my sitiation. If I was a town driver I'd be doing every 10,000 as suggested by Toyota... Also, I do believe using the archoil 6200-EU additive benefitted greatly.....
  10. I was on the motorway all the time I saw no point in washing the outside of car. That only ever got done when or if it went into Toyota for any reason. I did look after the inside though. I had no rust issues at all. Nothing ever popped up as advisory on MOT Etc. I never had any issues with water/moisture in the boot or light clusters. I did pamper it as in I fixed things as and when they broke, but not as in 'showroom stlye' It was mainly used as a tool to and from work and dump runs... Lol
  11. The engine and gearbox were trouble free over those years. I did have the power steering ecu go. But that was the only major problem. Like many on here I changed the scv valve and had the ecu software updated to solve my cold starting problems.... I changed my oils every 15000 miles using a good brand. I changed the gearbox oil at 200,000 miles. Original coolant and clutch. But I did do mostly motorway driving. Changed my air-conditioning fad and brake fluid every 3 years whether it needed it or not. Yes would have been fun to see if I made 300,000 with this car but the 116 round trip commute on M1 and M25 kinda forced me to a car with Auto box. I have no doubt the car would have made it.
  12. Well guys it's time for me to hang up my Auris keys and move on. I have recently p/x my Auris 2.0 D4D with 213,000+ miles for a 2014 Seat Leon 1.2 TSI DSG petrol with Tech Pack. I wanted to get an automatic as my 116 mile commute to and from work in the traffic on motorways is getting tiresome for the clutch foot..... Just so many accidents and traffic jams on M1 and M25 now... Also, this car is more economical than the diesel Auris .... I'd like to thank everyone who has helped me out over the 8 years of owning the car. To any new comers here look around, do your searches as there is a wealth of knowledge and experience in this forum.. I will still be loitering around as my parents have a yaris, plus I may still be able to help out with any experience I've had while owning this car.. Once again thank you all.
  13. Can't seem to edit my own post, so I quoted myself, lol Anyways I just wanted to add a pic showing which pipe to leave off while you pump/prime the fuel pump.. Hope this helps......
  14. Looking at the fuel filter, I believe the pipe to the front left is the pipe you leave disconnected for priming.. What I did to identify the correct pipe, was pull this pipe off and just press the plunger on the fuel pump.. Fuel will hopefully squirt out. So once you have replaced the filter, leave only this pipe disconnected and just press the plunger repeatedly until fuel pumps out.... Catch it in a towel or small cup. Then reconnect the pipe and press the plunger again a few more times until it firms up. Then refit all air filter pipework and box and start the car....
  15. I fitted reversing sensors without removing bumper..... Here's the install, but I don't know where the pics have gone... Sorry... I decided to fit a set of reversing sensors from here after nearly hitting a low wall twice while reversing in a car park. I bought from here because this is where I bought my Rear View Dimming Mirror for my Honda Accord, and they were very good. The kit I bought consists of 4 sensors, the CPU, the LED display, tapered spacers for bumpers that are not flat and even the correct sized drill. The first thing I did was to get underneath and remove the plastic cover. And locate and measure the distance from the ground to the top of this beam. As i didn't want to drill through the bumper only to hit this beam and not be able to push the sensor in. Then I found the centre of the car and measured of the sensor dimensions according to the instructions. Then drill the holes, carefully, and pop in the 4 sensors. I drilled the holes 58cm up and 40cm apart. The instructions say anything from 50cm-80cm up and from 30cm-40cm apart. I then collated all 4 wires and run them through the bottom of the spare wheel well cable tying as I went to keep things neat and tidy. I run the wires through the left side because that's where the reversing light (red wire) is And attached the cpu to the side of the boot with the supplied double sided pad. I ran out of light but when I get time I'm gonna cover the wires in some sort of wire sheath. I fitted the LED Display on the roof at the back of the car because I didn't really want to run the cable the whole length of the car. And wasn't too keen on having the LED Display on the dash either. This was how my Honda Accord was done by Honda themselves. You can see quite clearly the the display in the rear view mirror but, as you may have guessed, it is upside down. Doesn't bother me though. Left is still left and right is still right. Just the distance figures are reversed. Test: I reversed up to a wall and stopped as soon as the display showed 0.9m. I then measured the distance and it was pretty good. I then drove up to 0.5m and it started to over read. I then reversed right up to when the display beeped out and LED's turned solid and this is the gap left. All in all i'm very happy with the kit. The Display is bright and clear and the buzzer is plenty loud enough.