Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Acoustic

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • Toyota Model
    KE70 + 20vAFM + many other modified items
  1. Another update with VVT light installation circuit choices between direct from ECU or engine as well as adding heat-sink for protection.
  2. updated with pictures several hours later
  3. ano watashi eeeeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiiiiiiii cho to ma tei ko chi lai mite 20v MAP ECU VVT problem mitekurasai Description of toyota corolla levin / trueno AE111 20v MAP (aka blacktop) typical ECU problem
  4. My website updated with a few more pictures. Thanks for visiting.
  5. Hope this is not in the wrong section please see my review on ultra racing strut bars
  6. Hi guys errrr I'm a little shy to post this but what the heck please see you'll love it :) - like the tiger of corn flakes says it "It's great" I hope :) hahahahahh
  7. Hi guys Just to inform that I’ve made significant updates on my site and I think they may be of use to someone, hence letting you guys know. Brake lever from AE101 can be installed into KE70 20v quad (4) throttles brake vacuum issues All vacuums of 20v quad (4) throttles;_vacuum.htm Fuel tank pressure issue B6 big oil filter for 4A-GE Please don’t scold me on this one – KE70 using Honda seat mated with AE111 belts. This is the best update. New water routing suggestion for 20v transplant into FR KE70 or AE86 Thanks to everyone for visiting and not bashing me 
  8. real - yes When you have a negative camber unbalance, probably leave it... But when you have a positive camber ---- I'm sure everyone would be very ancious to fix it..
  9. Hi guys Do anyone know in ultra high detail how the 20v's VVT pulley actually works? Heard from my mechanic that when released the timing belt the VVT pulley will rotate anti-clockwise. Hence when installing the timing belt - must rotate the VVT pulley clockwise until cannot turn anymore, then align the marks then install the timing belt. Anyone knows about this? Figuring out a way to make it into adjustable cam pulley retaining VVT. Side story, another friend installed a pair of adjustable cam pulleys into his 4AG 16v small port - but says no feel no matter what the setting. Max variance +/- 1 teeth range. Any idea why? Previous MIVEC owner achieve tremendous improvement when set both intake and exhaust to !Removed! = late open
  10. Hi trueno My skills are not up to the level yet - unfortunately - kinda scared of oversteer - prefer understeer as newbie - infact neutral now... But just took the car out for a ride - starting to get used to this :) we'll see how it goes...
  11. yesterday changed tyres to dunlop FM901 195/50R15 82v $RM$ 165 each Tooked the opporunity to changed the rear lugs to long ones so that I can use 2 7mm+ spacer on each side to match the rear tracks as close to the front as possible. When done - front and rear is nearly same - difficult to say which is more or less :) Strange - only 15 mm rear spacing and equals the front. I thought my front was increased by 30 mm on each side. May be I was wrong. Anyway, after matching the tracks - there is still oversteer ..... completely different from the previous 75% neutral 25% over Now it's around 50% neutral 50% over The body roll has reduced. This is probably thanks to reducing the overall height by changing the previous 60 series back down to 50. The matching of the tracks - also seems to have help balanced the front and rear stabilizer bars to work in unison.... Strange ....... if there's such thing / assumptions .... ??? Also set front camber -2.2 castor +0.5 toe 0 Rear camber is screwed -0.1 left +0.2 right - can be seen by the naked eyes :( - left toe in a little, no toe in at right. The tyres are - soft - running on 41 psi hot and feels dam comfortable on 4.4 kg/mm front & 3.3 kg/mm rear on TiTAN coilovers.
  12. hmmmmm good points ..... thinking .... processing...... well, the reason for asking is mainly because want to DIY :) - part of the fun :)
  13. Hi guys AE86 / KE70 / similar cars I would like to ask those who have installed RCA with track increase, or some times known as built-in negative camber about matching it with the rear. Well, my car had ideal front track and rear track. Nearly 100% same. Since the upgrade to 195/50R15 from the 175/70R13 there was no desire to increase the track. However, recently I just acquired a "proper" RCA and it had built-in negative camber by means of shifting the strut position outwards by a certain amount. In this case 30 mm. The replacement of this new RCA over the old one gave quieter ride, firmer feel and control, overall safer and more confident. All good ............... but ............. the track increased so much that the tyres are scratching the fender tops, inner guards right on the foot etc. Whacking them fenders solved the problems, but the rear track is so much smaller that the car tends to oversteer and it doesn't look nice at all having the front so much wider than the rear. For those who is using RCA with 30mm or 40mm track increase, what do you do / did to solve the oversteering problem as well as looks? many thanks in advance.
  14. I've got a DIY idea how to bend my rear axle for desired negative camber, including zero if desired. Hope you guys can give some comments about the method below. Since I'm assuming I've got a S-bend in my axle housing, so the solution is to use a regular car's jack under the axle, between the 2 wheels and force it open. The step by step detail process is: - 1) put two strong hard wood block on both rim's inner face - for protection as well as anti-slip ....... ??? if works ??? 2) place the jack under the axle 3) direct the jack's direction between the 2 wheel's rim inner face 4) place a rod of somekind to fill the gap / space between the 2 wooded blocks 5) jack - expand side ways literally and the wheels will start to ..... negative camber There are other issues of concerns like: - A) what if the bending bias more towards one side? i.e. get -1 at left but only -0.5 at right? Well, the solution may be to park the car extremely close to a strong wall of somekind, stick a wood between the wall and the wheel that you do not want to further increase it's negative camber - and start to jack / expand between the 2 wheels and hope for the best ....??? may work??? B) what if the bending is not .... immediately permanent? i.e. when expanding the jack in the middle - assuming managed to get -0.5 at both wheels - which is perfect for equality, but upon release of jack, it returns to original Well, if this is the case, there are 2 solutions B-1) expand the jack extra amount, until upon release then it actually becomes what you want. or B-2) expand the jack to required amount, leave it over night and check the next morning? may work? And if this method works, one can also use this method to force / push the wheels from too much negative camber back to original or whatever desired amount. The solution is to place the wood and jack outside the wheel, either on top of bottom as required and borrow a support from a strong wall. Park the car real near to it. Oh forgot to mention, lift the car if required, either one side or both. Any take on this ideasssss ???? Many thanks in advance.