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GreenJuice last won the day on December 24 2011

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About GreenJuice

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  • Toyota Model
    Prius Gen 4 Excel
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
    Greater London

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  1. For completeness, I can report as a previous UK Gen 2 Prius owner that I did successfully disable this feature using a third party device. It was called a CoastalEtech Lockpick3 and was a quick & easy installation under the front passenger seat (I have/had no technical skills). I posted with some pictures on PriusChat then:
  2. @PeteB thank you again for this. Relationships in the London area are often more distant, with the turnover of staff, although I do believe I have been a good customer to them! I have sent a message to their Service Manager (informing of a possible batch of substandard batteries and not asking for anything in return) and will see what they say....
  3. Hmmm... Now that is more disturbing. I have just looked at the receipt of my 20k/2yr service from 6 months ago (see photo) and it has an item listed as 'BATTERY, TRANSMI' for £4.17 I didn't think twice at the time, but now I am wondering if they put in a dud battery or actually didn't do it at all. Not good for a Toyota dealer. As you say it probably isn't worth the effort making a fuss about it now. Even if I took it up at the next service. Perhaps I should have called the dealer when I first saw the 'low battery' warning...??!
  4. Thank you all very much for your prompt and helpful responses! All completed in just minutes today.@frostyballs &@TheProfessor thank you for the link and idea to download the e-manual. It certainly has more detailed information than the hard copy provided with the car. @furtula I also used the mechanical key instead of a screwdriver. It was a perfect fit and therefore the whole change was done without any additional tools.@catlover CR2032 is indeed very common and easy to obtain. I had a Gen2 and a Gen3 for 3 -5 years each before this car and interestingly managed to avoid having to change this battery before. Perhaps I was just lucky. In my research, I found some reports that the 'low battery' warning could be false and caused by interference and things like having both fobs (main and spare) in the car. Even today I was able to lock/unlock the car from ~30m. However, I decided to go ahead anyway as we have a long road trip coming up soon. In case anyone reading this would like to see an example on video; this one was done on a US model but is otherwise identical to what I did: Once I popped the cover open, I found the electronic module within it was stuck and had to wiggle it a bit to release. Attached is a photo showing why. It is held in place with six tiny vertical prongs, so it needed to be eased up in a straight line. You can also see the electronic module is not a perfect rectangular shape and can only be located in one orientation. In any case, there is a clear 'map' of the correct orientation on the cover!
  5. Just got the low battery warning at 2 yrs 6 months from new ownership. I see there are videos and posted advice on how to replace the key fob battery, but all appear to be for older or other models. Anyone with experience of changing their own key fob battery and any advice to offer, please? Many thanks
  6. I used Rain-X on my Gen4 this time and it was a bad mistake! I had more judder and more smearing. I had to wait several months before it eventually wore off. Rain-X is great for the side windows. I have tried white spirits and various types of detergents on the front wipers to stop the juddering. Nothing seems to work. I am coming to the conclusion that new rubber is the only way; but would be interested to hear if anyone has another remedy...
  7. Thank you HughL and everyone else! That makes a lot of sense now. I do get a camera symbol (not fuzzy on mine) in the bottom right corner of the central console screen, but nothing on the map itself. I had forgotten about that thread. This was my first software map update since I got the car in 2016. Seems like there was a change included in these map updates and the single pips were changed into these double beeps/pips/toots. It also makes sense that the warnings cover more than speed cameras, but also red lights and bus lanes. Because I am experiencing much more now, I also wonder if the newer maps have a lot more locations registered than before. Congestion in the parts of London that I mostly drive in provide few if any opportunities for speeding or shooting red lights! I need to find a way of switching this audible warning off or at least turning the volume down. At this time, I cannot find anything in the menu system of the central console to make adjustments.
  8. I have just started getting some intermittent 'double beeps' or 'double toots' in the car (UK based, Prius Excel 2016 with Touch 2 & Go). If you have heard anything like this, please give me an idea what might be the cause, so I can stop it! I have a recording of it here: Prius Double Beep.m4a It may be only a coincidence, but it started after I upgraded the Navigation system from the original 2016 version to version 6.11.2WH; and was the first software upgrade I have installed. There is no visual indication of what the problem is on any display anywhere on the dash or on the navigation head unit. The car is otherwise behaving normally. It only happens when the car is moving but seems unrelated to the actual speed and so far it seems to be on larger non-residential roads, although that might be a coincidence. The occurrence otherwise appears random. I can get it 2 - 3 times within a minute or just once in 20 - 30 minutes. It has happened at least once on almost every trip over 15 minutes I have made, since the software upgrade. I have managed to test and eliminate the following as possible causes by checking the status or activating/deactivating each in turn: 1. Low fuel 2. RSA (road sign assist) 3. Lane Sway Warning 4. Lane Departure Alert 5. BSM (blind spot monitor) 6. ICS (Intelligent Clearance Sonar) 7. Park Assist 8. PCS (Pre-Collison System) Many thanks!
  9. Blind Spot Monitor, I suspect. It's those lights on your wing mirrors. It is an option you can switch on or off.
  10. Thanks for the comments. They resolved it by using a system called '1 link', which the dealer said was something related to fleet cars. AutoWindscreen advised me to get a copy of the ADAS certificate from the dealer once the work was completed. The dealer said that do not do that! In the end I just got a copy of their invoice to AutoWindscreen - which said, [sic] "Re-collaborate front camera after windscreen replacement"
  11. Heard a loud 'tap' whilst driving on the North Circular in London. A couple of hours later a crack became visible coming up from the location of the wiper on the passenger side. The stone (or whatever it was) hit the blackened part of the windscreen. The cracked extended over the weekend, so by the Monday it had almost reached the driver's side. I was covered by Toyota Motor Insurance. Their preferred provider was AutoWindscreens, so I had no choice but to go with it or risk paying more than the £60 excess. I would have preferred going to my local dealer as it would have been a one-stop-shop. After taking my excess charge, they passed on my case to AutoWindscreens; who then contacted me to offer a date 10 days later. If the crack had crossed over into the drivers line of sight, I was informed that it would not be legal and would have had to stop using the car. AutoWindscreens also said that they could not recalibrate the camera and rain sensor, but would assist me with organising the recalibration with my local dealer. One good thing was that they were going to obtain the replacement windscreen from Toyota (which allayed my concerns having read on this forum about potential problems with the HUD if the wrong type of windscreen was used). The windscreen replacement went smoothly. They came round to my place. He was experienced and single handed. I could tell that he was very quick and skilled. I could tell it was a specialist job and he told me that quite often garages and dealerships use them to do the replacements. There were no error messages or alerts after the replacement so it was questionable if an instrument recalibration was actually required. However, the requirement was actually dictated by the Insurers in order to continue cover! They needed a document to prove that recalibration had taken place (and recommended that I kept a copy for myself). Three days later, AutoWindscreen contact me again to follow-up on the recalibration. They make an appointment with the local dealer. Another week later and another day off work for me. It would have gone smoothly, except that on the day I took the car in, an argument ensued between the dealer and AutoWindscreen as to who was going to pay for the work. It was something they needed to have sorted out amongst themselves and not involve me. The dealer complained that AutoWindscreen should not have taken on such a job if they could not complete it themselves. I replied that although I agreed with that idea, the use of AutoWindscreens was forced by the Toyota Insurance that they sold to me when I bought the car! The dealer refused to do the work until it was resolved which wasted a couple of hours. It was an example of different operators working under the umbrella of 'Toyota' by name only and not working and communicating well for the benefit of the customer.
  12. Great thanks. Working now for me. [emoji106]
  13. Great thanks. Let us know if it would help to see the error message in Tapatalk.
  14. Still waiting for a solution. No access to TOC using Tapatalk. Is there anyone among the website moderators listening?
  15. I use Polaroid sunglasses and the displays all work OK (just dimmer as with your previous model). I also find the leather seats are not cold in the winter. Compared to cloth I have found leather cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. @PeteB - I thought you could turn off Auto headlight by rotating on the stalk...?