tivoli pete

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About tivoli pete

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  • Toyota Model
    Carina E 1.8 Auto
  1. I tried the WD40 in the throttle body, but sadly, that hasn't made any difference. I would welcome any other suggestions. Thanks. Pete.
  2. By the way, the spark plugs are not the standard platinum type. They are Champion EON 2 or 1 I think? Could that also be a cause of this problem? Pete.
  3. Thanks Beardie, I will give it a try and let you know what happens. Pete.
  4. Interesting! The car recently failed the MOT due to sky high emissions. The solution was to pour some industrial strength fuel cleaner in to the fuel system and blast the car up and down the motorway. This did make it pass the MOT, but maybe it has caused a blockage in the throttle body. Where exactly in the throttle assembly do I squirt the WD40? Cheers, Pete.
  5. I have heard this rattling noise on loads of Carina E cars like mine. It sounds a bit like pinking, and is most noticeable when cold and the engine is loaded. Sometimes it will also make this noise when idling off load. On my car I thought it was the aircon compressor belt tensioner, a sort of jockey wheel. Changing that cured the noise for about a week, then it started again. I eventually traced the noise to the accesory drive belt as it drives the alternator and water pump. What seems to happen, is that when the ribbed belt wears down, the material it is made of becomes hard. What then happens is that the longest run of the belt from the alternator pulley to the crank pulley begins to oscillate. It is this "slapping" of the crank pulley that gives the metallic sound. It can get really loud in extreme cases. Just change the belt for a good quality replacement, and enjoy the silence! Pete.
  6. My 1996 Carina E 1.8 auto with 7AFE engine starts and runs very well normally, but recently the engine will sit at idle and gradually drop in revs until it misfires and then revs up to about 1000 rpm before dropping down again. The whole cycle repeats itself over and over in a surging cycle. Two things I have noticed are that: 1. If the transmission is engaged, and is just slipping on the viscous coupling - loading the engine slightly, the idle at junctions is smooth and constant. Off load, the problem is evident. 2. When driving at about 30 or 40MPH in slow constant speed situations, your accelerator foot tends to hover lightly to keep the lower speed constant. The auto box is usually in high ratio on the flat, there is a feeling of a sort of on-off with the power delivery - it feels just like older cars with rear wheel drive when the universal joints in the prop shaft are worn. That sort of backlash feeling. If I press the accelerator for more speed, then the power is delivered smoothly. It only seems to happen when trying to maintain a constant speed where the throttle valve must be almost closed. I know there are all these valves and emission control gadgets on these cars, but can anyone point me to the most likely cause? Thanks, Pete.
  7. :hokus-pokus: I had a recent thread running about the problems I was having with my '96 1.8L Carina E with the 7A-FE engine. I had been to a garage to get the head gasket changed, and the car came back with a loud metallic clatter - like poor tappet adjustment. The following is what to do to prevent the noise... When the inlet camshaft on these engines (4A-FE & 7A-FE) is removed from the cylinder head, and dissengaged from the exhaust camshaft drive gear, it is important to do the following things: Assuming that the exhaust camshaft is already fitted and the #1 cylinder is at TDC on its firing stroke, and basically ready to receive the inlet camshaft. Check the inlet camshaft drive gear - it is split in to two separate gears that are held pressed together by a wave washer and a circlip. There are a series of holes on the outer face of the drive gear assembly. On the came lobe side of the drive gear assembly, there is a threaded hole to take a 6mm bolt or set screw. Within the gear assembly is a strong C shaped spring which must be pre-loaded and the held under tension by inserting a 6mm bolt through the service hole (on the outer gear face - the only one that will align when the spring is tensioned). To tension this gear, look down and left of the service screw hole, and there you will find two holes about an inch apart. Place two snug filling dowels or bolts in to the holes, and use then to lever the gear ring around until the service hole and the threaded hole ar aligned - then tighten a bolt or screw to hold the spring tension. Once this is complete, pre-lube as necessary and refit the cam to the engine. There are two small alignment holes that will align at (Inlet 3 o'clock) and (Exhaust 9 o'clock) and finally at TDC should both be at 12 o'clock. Now just retighten the bearing caps in the correct sequence, and check and adjust the cam follower shims for correct valve clearances. If you forget to tension the camshaft "Anti-backlash" gear spring, the engine will sound terrible, and you will think you have valve clearance problems or timing problems. Just thought this might help. Use the Haynes Carina E manual for this - it explains quite well the procedure for this job. Cheers, Tivoli Pete.
  8. :D Yes! At last - I have fixed it!! After months of despair and frustration at the possibility of owning a permanently noisy car, I decided to take matters in to my own hands. I found myself looking at the camshafts cam followers and timing belts in very close detail - using my Haynes manual. I decided to take the top off and check the timing marks on all of the pulleys, from the crankshaft to the two cams. I carried out an ignition timing check with the diagnostic socket link in place, and found that it was only about 4 degrees BTDC, which is miles out, as the book states for the 7A-FE should be 10. I looked carefully at both of the camshafts and in particular, the drive transfer gears (the exhaust cam is driven by the cam belt, and transfers the drive to the inlet camshaft with a gear assembly). I noticed that the inlet cam gear was comprised of two separate gears pushed together and held with a large circlip. It dawned on me that this was very much like the drive gearing in some video recorders that I have worked in in the past (I fix TVs and videos!) It is designed to stop backlash and noise. I looked in the Haynes manual, and this was confirmed, it also went on at length about the internal springing and how to unload the spring pressure when the camshaft is un-meshed from its neighbour. I was prepared to put money of this being the source of my noise - and it was! I looked closely at the gear, and noticed that the service screw hole was not aligned - this meant that it wasn't under tension. I removed the camshaft, and using two bolts in the holes provided, loaded the spring until I was able to fit the service screw and tighten it down. I reinstalled the camshaft and got all the marks lined up, refitted the bearing caps, and then removed the service screw. I replaced all the covers and added some oil, and then started the engine. I rechecked the ignition timing, and adjusted it. It was now running like silk, and even after it was nice and hot, it was still running sweetly. So it seems that the morons at the garage I took it to had not loaded the anti-backlash gear correctly, and it was causing the clatter. Thanks to everyone for their advice and tips - especially the stethoscope idea!! I'm having a large Leffe Belgian beer to celebrate - Cheers!! Tivoli Pete. :hokus-pokus:
  9. I have just taken the car to a Toyata Dealers in Crawley near where I live. The guy listened to the engine, and I explained the history about the engine problems I have had. He was suggesting that perhaps the timing was just a tooth out on the belt. I then thought a bit about the cylinder head job that was done, and the fact that the head was skimmed to restore the flatness of the mating surface. Would the new cylinder head gasket need to be thicker to compensate, and if so, would the failure to install a thicker one result in a possible (although slight) interference between the pistons and valves?? I may be clutching at straws here, I'm getting fairly desperate to get this sorted without a huge bill. Any help appreciated. Tivoli Pete.
  10. Thanks for the info' about the plugs. The fitted ones are currently Nippon Denso, which I think may even be the originals!! They look very white on the electrodes?? The gap seems to be huge, but then again it is supposed to be 1.3mm. They dont look at all worn though. I got a set at my local motor factors for about £38 (NGK BKR6EP-13) and now they are fitted, they seem to have made the car a bit more lively, but now it sounds like the engine is pinking a bit when the engine gets hot. The gaps are correct, so I don't understand why it would cause pinking - I did think that the engine management would sense any knocking or detonation and !Removed! the ignition timing to compensate - is that correct?? Tivoli Pete.
  11. I need to know what the recommended spark plugs are for this car. The engine is the 7A-FE and according to Halford's in-store selector book, they are NGK BRK6EP-13 although Champion EON-2 is also suggested. I can't seem to get them from any stores. I'm reluctant to go to Toyota, as they consistently seem to charge a fortune for spares!! Can anyone let me know what are the best plugs, and where I can get some in the UK?? Thanks, Tivoli Pete.
  12. No my engine is the 7A-FE, and the noise is actually worst when the engine is at idle. I was trying to find some replacement spark plugs for it because it is running a bit rough now. I didn't realise that they were so hard to find. Three large Halfords warehouse stores didn't have the NGK recommended plugs which I think are BRK6EP-13. They are platinum plugs. Does anyone know whether these are the correct plugs, and where I can reliably get a set in the UK? Cheers! Tivoli Pete
  13. Wow! There's not much room to get in to the cam belt casing. I suppose I will have to take off all of the pulleys and belts to get the cover right off?? I need to take the car off the road and have a really good look around the timing belt and tensioner. Tivoli Pete.
  14. :) Mine is the 7A-FE but I imagine there's not a lot of difference between it and the 3SFE. I think that the FE series was designed for ultra-lean burn. I'll try the hose, but the noise is so loud that is seems to come from anywhere around the top end. I was wondering if it could be due to timimg - sort of like a pinking or detonation problem, again due to the maladjustment of the timing belt. What do think?? Tivoli Pete.
  15. ;) Thanks for that. I haven't checked back here for a while, work commitments and all. I still haven't got to the bottom of this yet. I'm interested to know how the timing belt tensioner causes the noise? Tivoli Pete.