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Rumbly last won the day on September 2 2011

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    Auris SR 2.0 D4D

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Enthusiast (6/14)

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  1. The Auris might not be the sharpest handling car ever, but not in my opinion dangerous. Pretty typical front wheel drive fare, built in understeer, can be provoked to lift off oversteer. I think maybe as the car has been in an accident there might be some underlying problem with that car. If it is displaying odd handling it could be something is still bent or out of alignment, and if so, until that is sorted out I'd think there would be little point in making modifications. Maybe have a suspension specialist have a look at the car and check the alignment of everything.
  2. Dampers are not really designed to reduce roll, anti roll bars are designed to control roll. Fiddling with anti roll bars if you don't know what you are doing can have very serious consequences not alway good. Altering roll characteristics could potentially result it a terminal oversteer situation which you might not discover until you are travelling backward down the wrong side of the road! Reducing roll does not necessarily improve handling, some very fine handling road cars roll quite appreciably. High quality dampers might well be a good idea as they should control the suspension movement better, specially under hard use, but they won't reduce roll. They may slightly reduce the rate of roll if they have higher damping rates than the originals, but I doubt if you'd notice any difference. I'm not saying don't fiddle, thats how we learn stuff and have fun :-) Sure get some uprated dampers and see how it goes, buy from a reputable manufacturer and it should improve the car with no adverse effects, but not in an attempt to reduce roll.
  3. My original Toyota brakes (2008 car) had some problems with squealing, not had a chirp since changing to MTEC discs and Mintex pads all round, been on for approx 20,000 miles. Doesn't really help with your current problem though!
  4. Hi L22KMD, there is still brake dust but I'd say yes, there is significantly less dust than with the original Toyota ones.
  5. I fitted MTEC discs with Mintex pads, they have been on for around 20,000 miles now, looks like the disc life will be about the same as the originals at somewhere around 30,000 miles, and haven't given any problems.
  6. Hi Daz, I had a problem with water in the boot yup, this was rectified by Mr T under warranty. I believe the dealer replaced (or added) two rubber thingies with modified parts (not sure what or where), replaced both rear light seals and replaced the boot seal. The problem has not re-appeared since. I am pretty sure this was a fairly common warranty claim problem and there are other posts in the forum relating to it, might be worth searching some older posts for info.
  7. Davy, I've had brake problems too, at 30,000 mile service all my discs were at mimimum thickness (pads were original and still had plenty of life, around 8mm, belive me the brakes had not had a hard life) and all four brakes were binding to some degree, dealer wouldn't do anything about it under warranty, ended up freeing off the brakes myself, and replaced all discs and pads myself (dealer wanted £600 to do the job) before MOT. This is the first car I've owned that I've had to spend money and time on to get through it's first MOT test. One of the reasons I bought a Toyota was reputation for reliability and customer service as I have very little time or inclination to mess around like this! .... disapointed!
  8. Mine pretty much always did this from day one if left for a couple of days, recently replaced my discs and pads for MTEC discs with Mintex pads, just come back from a weeks holiday and the handbrake released perfectly with no binding. Previously when left for a week you'd think someone had welded the pads to the discs while I was away!
  9. I don't know about the 1.4 but the 2.0 D4D can be fitted with (at least) two different types of brake capliper, you might want to check up on that before ordering so you are supplied with the correct brake pads. I got a set of grooved/drilled discs and Mintex pads from MTEC recently, I can't vouch for the longevity of the discs as I've only just fitted them, but the service was good, and they delivered quickly. The wrong rear pads were supplied, they changed them and refunded my postage to send them back and sent correct pads next day delivery. Mistake made but recified immediately without any fuss at all. I'd definitely buy from them again based on service. The price was good, and so far can't fault the performance of the brakes.
  10. Rumbly

    Warranty Work

    On the face of it that sounds a bit worrying. Did T. indicate that this was the normal life to be expected from a disc? (Pads to outlive a disc???) Did you purchase the car from new? In view of your experience did you consider buying an extended warranty? It would be interesting to hear other owners experience of brake disc change mileage Dealer did agree that the service life did seem short and pad wear would indicate non abusive use and offered a small discount on the quoted £600 repair bill, but would not replace under warranty. I eventually just did the job myself at a total cost of £182.25 including buying a re-wind tool, and took about 3 hours to do the lot. Yes I bought the car brand new. I did consider taking out an extended warranty, but have not done so, I'll take the gamble nothing else big will go wrong in the next year. I tend not to sweat the small stuff.
  11. If anyone is interested .... just done the rear pads, used a Draper tool to re-wind the pistons, one side went in no prob at all, t'other side was a bit of a faff and required a bit of dexterity and a lever, but went back without too much of a struggle. The tool I used is called a Draper Cube, has no screw thread, just lugs to engage in piston using a 3/8 drive, can be had from Toolline for £4.25 .... cheap and cheerful, not as good as screw type, but got the job done.
  12. Rumbly

    Warranty Work

    All my brake discs were reported as needing replaced (under minimum thickness) at 30,000 mile service, Toyota refused to replace under warranty despite the pads being originals and only half worn, quoting wear and tear. I've just had the whole steering column replaced, both front wheel bearings replaced, boot vent seals, rear lights gaskets and boot seal replaced under warranty at 38,000 miles .... my warranty expires today! I like the car, it does what I need pretty well, but it has had more warranty issues than any car I've had previously, it wouldn't have passed an MOT test at 3 years old and 38,000 miles without most of the above work being done. Decent car with many good qualities spoiled by these issues. The question now that the warranty has expired is .... do I keep it or get rid! I'd buy another Toyota, but the reputation for reliability won't likely be a consideration in my decision as it was when I got the Auris.
  13. The idle speed on my 2008 2.0 D4D changes too, seems to depend on outside temperature, did it the first winter I had it, and last winter. Not sure what temperature it triggered at, assume it has something to do with diesels tending to run cold and may not get up to proper running temperature in winter, so p'raps they raise the idle speed to raise running temp, and keep heater warm! Mine has never done it during summer, only in winter during cold spells.
  14. Rumbly

    Auris Mpg

    Doing several full tank to full tank checks using the trip meter to measure the distance covered, my computer is pessamistic by about 1.5 mpg. In order for this method to be accurate you also have to ensure the trip meter is correctly calibrated, I've come across some odometers that were pretty naff at measuring distances! Computer says I usually average somewhere around 45 - 46 mpg ish overall.
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