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Everything posted by Rumbly

  1. The Auris might not be the sharpest handling car ever, but not in my opinion dangerous. Pretty typical front wheel drive fare, built in understeer, can be provoked to lift off oversteer. I think maybe as the car has been in an accident there might be some underlying problem with that car. If it is displaying odd handling it could be something is still bent or out of alignment, and if so, until that is sorted out I'd think there would be little point in making modifications. Maybe have a suspension specialist have a look at the car and check the alignment of everything.
  2. Dampers are not really designed to reduce roll, anti roll bars are designed to control roll. Fiddling with anti roll bars if you don't know what you are doing can have very serious consequences not alway good. Altering roll characteristics could potentially result it a terminal oversteer situation which you might not discover until you are travelling backward down the wrong side of the road! Reducing roll does not necessarily improve handling, some very fine handling road cars roll quite appreciably. High quality dampers might well be a good idea as they should control the suspension movement better, specially under hard use, but they won't reduce roll. They may slightly reduce the rate of roll if they have higher damping rates than the originals, but I doubt if you'd notice any difference. I'm not saying don't fiddle, thats how we learn stuff and have fun :-) Sure get some uprated dampers and see how it goes, buy from a reputable manufacturer and it should improve the car with no adverse effects, but not in an attempt to reduce roll.
  3. My original Toyota brakes (2008 car) had some problems with squealing, not had a chirp since changing to MTEC discs and Mintex pads all round, been on for approx 20,000 miles. Doesn't really help with your current problem though!
  4. Hi L22KMD, there is still brake dust but I'd say yes, there is significantly less dust than with the original Toyota ones.
  5. I fitted MTEC discs with Mintex pads, they have been on for around 20,000 miles now, looks like the disc life will be about the same as the originals at somewhere around 30,000 miles, and haven't given any problems.
  6. Hi Daz, I had a problem with water in the boot yup, this was rectified by Mr T under warranty. I believe the dealer replaced (or added) two rubber thingies with modified parts (not sure what or where), replaced both rear light seals and replaced the boot seal. The problem has not re-appeared since. I am pretty sure this was a fairly common warranty claim problem and there are other posts in the forum relating to it, might be worth searching some older posts for info.
  7. Davy, I've had brake problems too, at 30,000 mile service all my discs were at mimimum thickness (pads were original and still had plenty of life, around 8mm, belive me the brakes had not had a hard life) and all four brakes were binding to some degree, dealer wouldn't do anything about it under warranty, ended up freeing off the brakes myself, and replaced all discs and pads myself (dealer wanted £600 to do the job) before MOT. This is the first car I've owned that I've had to spend money and time on to get through it's first MOT test. One of the reasons I bought a Toyota was reputation for reliability and customer service as I have very little time or inclination to mess around like this! .... disapointed!
  8. Mine pretty much always did this from day one if left for a couple of days, recently replaced my discs and pads for MTEC discs with Mintex pads, just come back from a weeks holiday and the handbrake released perfectly with no binding. Previously when left for a week you'd think someone had welded the pads to the discs while I was away!
  9. I don't know about the 1.4 but the 2.0 D4D can be fitted with (at least) two different types of brake capliper, you might want to check up on that before ordering so you are supplied with the correct brake pads. I got a set of grooved/drilled discs and Mintex pads from MTEC recently, I can't vouch for the longevity of the discs as I've only just fitted them, but the service was good, and they delivered quickly. The wrong rear pads were supplied, they changed them and refunded my postage to send them back and sent correct pads next day delivery. Mistake made but recified immediately without any fuss at all. I'd definitely buy from them again based on service. The price was good, and so far can't fault the performance of the brakes.
  10. Rumbly

    Warranty Work

    On the face of it that sounds a bit worrying. Did T. indicate that this was the normal life to be expected from a disc? (Pads to outlive a disc???) Did you purchase the car from new? In view of your experience did you consider buying an extended warranty? It would be interesting to hear other owners experience of brake disc change mileage Dealer did agree that the service life did seem short and pad wear would indicate non abusive use and offered a small discount on the quoted £600 repair bill, but would not replace under warranty. I eventually just did the job myself at a total cost of £182.25 including buying a re-wind tool, and took about 3 hours to do the lot. Yes I bought the car brand new. I did consider taking out an extended warranty, but have not done so, I'll take the gamble nothing else big will go wrong in the next year. I tend not to sweat the small stuff.
  11. If anyone is interested .... just done the rear pads, used a Draper tool to re-wind the pistons, one side went in no prob at all, t'other side was a bit of a faff and required a bit of dexterity and a lever, but went back without too much of a struggle. The tool I used is called a Draper Cube, has no screw thread, just lugs to engage in piston using a 3/8 drive, can be had from Toolline for £4.25 .... cheap and cheerful, not as good as screw type, but got the job done.
  12. Rumbly

    Warranty Work

    All my brake discs were reported as needing replaced (under minimum thickness) at 30,000 mile service, Toyota refused to replace under warranty despite the pads being originals and only half worn, quoting wear and tear. I've just had the whole steering column replaced, both front wheel bearings replaced, boot vent seals, rear lights gaskets and boot seal replaced under warranty at 38,000 miles .... my warranty expires today! I like the car, it does what I need pretty well, but it has had more warranty issues than any car I've had previously, it wouldn't have passed an MOT test at 3 years old and 38,000 miles without most of the above work being done. Decent car with many good qualities spoiled by these issues. The question now that the warranty has expired is .... do I keep it or get rid! I'd buy another Toyota, but the reputation for reliability won't likely be a consideration in my decision as it was when I got the Auris.
  13. The idle speed on my 2008 2.0 D4D changes too, seems to depend on outside temperature, did it the first winter I had it, and last winter. Not sure what temperature it triggered at, assume it has something to do with diesels tending to run cold and may not get up to proper running temperature in winter, so p'raps they raise the idle speed to raise running temp, and keep heater warm! Mine has never done it during summer, only in winter during cold spells.
  14. Rumbly

    Auris Mpg

    Doing several full tank to full tank checks using the trip meter to measure the distance covered, my computer is pessamistic by about 1.5 mpg. In order for this method to be accurate you also have to ensure the trip meter is correctly calibrated, I've come across some odometers that were pretty naff at measuring distances! Computer says I usually average somewhere around 45 - 46 mpg ish overall.
  15. Indeed it is up to you to prove that the servicing has been done in accordance with manufacturer's recommendation, but it is not up to you to say prove that (for example) a Fram oil filter is of equal quality to a Toyota one, or that Castrol oil of the correct grade is of equal quality to whatever brand Toyota recommend. If Fram and Castrol say they are fit for intended propose, you do not have to prove that they are. I think in this case that is realistically your best if not only option to stand any chance of getting a repair without spending £££££ of your own money!! It really is up to this dealer to sort it out if any sorting out is required, and I can fully understand why nobody else will touch it without payment, why should they if they won't get paid? As a matter of interest, which dealer in Scotland was it that did the repair?
  16. All the below assumes that the garage which did your servicing was VAT registered and did NOT inform you that they would be using any non approved parts or practises which might affect any manufacturer warranty. If you did get the work done at a non VAT registered garage you probably don't have a leg to stand on. You do NOT ... I reapeat NOT ... have to have your car serviced at a franchised dealer in order to preserve your warranty, that particular scam has been well and truly knocked on the head legally ages ago. If the place you had it serviced has filled in the service book, done work of sufficient quality, and used parts of sufficient quality there should be no problem. Audi tried this with a friend of mine when his engine blew up within warrranty, it had not been serviced at a franchised dealer and had non original filters fitted. Audi did end up paying for a new engine, yup it took a lot of perseverence and threat of court action, but legally Audi did not have a leg to stand on, they could not prove that sub standard work had been done or inferior parts used. Just because a part does not say "Original" on it does not automatically make it inferior. In your case it would be up to Toyota to prove the parts/work was inferior, NOT for you to prove otherwise. And if they can prove inferiour parts / workmanship, then you have a claim against the garage which did your servicing. It is no longer legally acceptable practice for a car manufacturer to insist your use their franchised dealers or own brand parts for servicing. "The EU Motor Vehicle Block Exemption Regulation (MVBER) or European Commission Regulation EC No. 1400/2002 has been in place since 2002. The MVBER covers agreements concerning the distribution and servicing of motor vehicles in the EU and exempts from EU competition rules arrangements for the distribution of new cars and their subsequent servicing. The MVBER aims to increase competition in the motor vehicle sector in particular in respect of servicing and repairs. This will in turn give consumers more choice and better value for money. The MVBER also aims to enable independent repairers to compete directly with authorised networks. Background The MVBER provides an exemption from EU competition rules for agreements and/or concerted practices between undertakings in the motor vehicle sector which improve production or distribution of goods while allowing consumers a fair share of the resulting benefits. A key feature of the MVBER is to ensure that all service and repair work can be undertaken by any garage whether an authorised or independent dealership. It is essential therefore that independent garages and roadside assistance organisations should have access to spare parts, technical information, specifications and codes including diagnostic equipment and software to carry out this work. The right of independent garages to be able to compete on equal terms with manufacturer approved outlets was underlined in the UK by the Office of Fair Trading (OFT) report into restrictions in new car warranties in 2004. This report recommended that consumers should not be subject to ties to approved garages for servicing within the manufacturer’s warranty period where other service providers were capable of providing the service to the manufacturer’s standard."
  17. I'm not sure what tappet arrangement that engine uses ..... Google is your friend. Tappet noise on a straight four is always at a particular frequency of quarter engine speed (I think!!), it is usually quite easy to diagnose one noisy tappet as the frequency of the noise is quite distinctive. If it is a tappet noise it could be that the camshaft itself is damaged?? I'd advise professional advice asap.
  18. I fitted a Brinks one to my 2.0 SR D4D without a problem, no bumber cutting required, just some cuts to the plastic undertray, but they will all require that. I believe that you get a Brinks one if you order one from Toyota as an accessory.
  19. Don't know anything about the Witter towbar, I fitted a Brinks one. I did post about towbars a while back see this post
  20. Rumbly


    Its a generic term literally meaning "coil spring over strut", basically a shock absorber with a spring round it. The Auris does I believe use Macpherson strut front suspension. The coilover is a basic component of the Macpherson strut and provides the spring and damper for this system.
  21. Rumbly

    Which Towbar

    I believe Brinks is the one fitted as Toyota optional extra. I fitted a Brinks removable ball one. Fitting the towbar itself is pretty straightforward, with the Brinks (and probably all others) one you have to cut slots in the plastic undertray, this is easy and can be done with a Stanley Knife. You have to move the rear silencer to one side to get access to tighten one of the securing bolts. I did not have to remove or modify the rear bumper. The plastic undertray is held on by push in plastic fastners and a central (ish) plastic nut. The electrics take more time to fit than the towbar, a fair bit of trim has to come out, the trim pretty much comes off just by pulling at it. I took a power feed from the panel behind the glovebox (as recommended in the fitting instructions) feeding the wire through the near side door sill. I think the genuine Toyota fitting kit takes power from the battery which means running a wire through the bulkhead. The rear lights had to come out to connect them up. I used a car specific wiring kit and bypass relay, mounted the relay with velcro on the nearside wheelarch behind the carpet. Hope that helps ....
  22. Front end parts are aways harder to find the rear and parts cos cars tend to get damaged at the front in accidents. You might have to consider getting one a different colour and spraying it to suit. Can your old bonnet be used while you look for one? Sometimes application of a big hammer can get panels into useable shape, just not very pretty!! If you do go down this route make very very sure the bonnet closes securely and there are no sharp edges.
  23. I've had the miles remaining go a bit weird when I put fuel in with the ignition in the accessories position so someone in the car could listen to the radio. Sorted itself out the next time I filled up.
  24. I'm sticking by my original post on this one. This looks like the garage is offering extras, and why not?. If they are making them look like or suggesting they are actual Toyota recomendations .... then it's a con. If they charged you for something not in the official Toyota service item list without asking, go and ask for your money back.
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