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Everything posted by KPARRIS-JONES

  1. In light of the oil pump failing and trashing this engine, I am now performing a 2ZZ-GE conversion. I have started chatting to a mate of mine about the ECU and harness. This summer I will get to work removing the old engine and cutting the mounts out. I will also be reinforcing the sub-frame and front section of the chassis to accept the new engine. Overall I will be buying an entire Corolla T-Sport and ripping bits off it as and when I need them This will be epic! KP
  2. If they use the c52 same as the 4A-GE then I have a spare :) KP
  3. The car is now up for sale in the for sale section. KP
  4. Hi everyone, I'm putting my 1990 Liftback up for sale now that the insurance for the GTi has dropped to a sensible price. Here is the car: Specifications: Engine - 1.3L 2E 12 Valve, 4 cylinder Engine, Carburetted (75bhp) Chassis - 1990 Liftback GL, 5 Door ICE - New Pioneer Head Unit, AUX, Front USB, standard 4" front speakers and standard 6x9" rear speakers Work Done: All work done on this car has been documented in the following Thread so read for details: http://www.ae92ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/1494-1990-gl-liftback-restoration-rebuild/ *Extensive Welding to rear section of the floor pan, suspension turret and inner wheel arch *Cylinder Head removed, de-coked and Valve Lapped - The gasket was replaced but the head was removed to de-coke the engine, not because of any gasket failure or similar issue. *Carburettor and all emissions control systems replaced *Inlet Manifold Replaced *Battery Replaced (Halfords Calcium) *Exhaust System Replaced - Downpipe, Centre Section & Back Box *Braking System Replaced - Master Cylinder Seals, Hose Technik Front Braided Brake Lines, APEC Rear Brake Flexible Hose, APEC Rear Drum Brake Cylinders, replacement copper rear brake lines, front pads, refurbished front callipers, new front discs. *New front left tyre replaced, tracking and 4 wheel alignment completed. (3 Uniroyal Rain Tyres and one Pirelli) *Instrument Cluster Lights replaced with LED Blue - they offer better clarity over the old yellowish units. *New oil, coolant and filters - timing belt is a recent replacement (4000 miles approx) *Full new clutch kit - cover plate, drive plate and bearing There is an awful lot that has gone into this vehicle and now it drives just as it should, however there are some things to make buyers aware of: *Two dented front wings *Small chip in windscreen (has passed MOT's for 9 years before me and mine has flown through with it) *Rust on front door corners (both will eventually need to be replaced, drivers door still available from Toyota) *Surface rust on Tailgate *Surface Rust on Rear Right Quarter (brake fluid spillage? Hasn't been getting worse) *Cold start is a pig but it does start every time and once choke comes off it runs like a sewing machine. *Rear Mud flaps need fitting (parts included in deal) *Spare Tyre needs replacing *Rear Left Window Winder Handle needs a new circlip to hold it on. None of these problems require immediate attention as the car is now driving safely and smoothly, however I feel obliged to tell you about these small issues. The car has done close to 109000 miles and is mechanically sound. Tax until August, MOT until September 2014. £700 asking price - negotiations possible. If you have any further questions please contact me here or via e-mail at parris-jones@hotmail.co.uk KP
  5. They did a really nice job of them though - acid dipped, bead blasted, powder coated and then new slider pins, seals, piston and dust boots are all fitted after a rebore. With all that out of the way I went out for a test drive. Finally it sounds great and stops really really well. The only thing letting the braking performance down is the weight transfer onto the front springs, so some stiffer springs may be in order. I also had to sort the sunroof out so a good friend of mine helped sort the whole thing out: We got it painted and cleaned up then but a large bead of tiger seal around it, placing it back down, clamping it in by assembling it completely and wiped the excess. The results are good! We then used lens restorer on all plastic lenses which made a big difference - the left light is done and the right is the before condition: Finally we cleaned her up and got a bit of trim polish on there! A busy week the say the least... KP
  6. The Liftback has always offered questionable braking performance - the pedal is often soft with no feel through the first few centimetres of travel and a progressive dirtying of trousers. In light of this I have spent my time this week replacing the braking system. To start the whole lot had to come apart. The front calipers where the first things to come off and be sent away for refurbishment which was going to be £250 for the pair! With them sent off I moved on to fitting new brake hoses and slave cylinders to the rear drums which went well for the rear left hose: But beyond that it all went to pot - the feed pipes to the cylinders snapped on both sides, meaning I had to go out to get two copper lines made up before I could continue. They were only £3 for the pair which is more than ideal! The rear left line went well too, with little bother fitting once I had carefully bent it into the correct form: It was tricky getting the hard left bend from the back of the cylinder but I did it using a 3/8" ratchet extension bar: However the rear right was a different animal altogether... both bolts were just not going without a fight. A spanner didn't work, my flare nut spanner didn't work and there simply wasn't enough room for the 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm socket. So to combat the issue I found an old 10mm socket and took it to a garage owner who machined two flats into it so I could get a 13mm spanner onto the back of it. It took him ten minutes to make it while I explained what I had been through with the car and then when I asked how much he wanted he said "Nothing mate, I can't kick a man when he's down." Faith in humanity restored somewhat! Sadly the spanner jaws kept spreading and it didn't work, so I had to go back and ask for some advice. He was kind enough to lend me his Snap-On Swan-Neck spanner, however it just couldn't get around the protrusion that sat close to the bolt head - just like the flare nut spanner couldn't. I went back to him and came home to the car and then just removed the bearing carrier to give me enough space to get the ratchet behind there. After carefully cleaning and greasing it up it went back together without any major hassle. And here we are for the rear right: The lead time on the front calipers went up over the days and I got frustrated so I replaced the knackered exhaust system. I had to cut the old one off with a junior hacksaw... I also got a good look at my old exhaust bodge! Some problems arose mostly due to hangers coming apart from rust: At last the calipers arrived! They were meant to be £250 but after all the hassle I had and the loyalty to their department I had shown over the last two weeks they did them for £107 and gave me a trade card!
  7. Not to worry mate Right well awesome news - I fitted the new carb and after a few adjustments it's running perfectly. Idle is bang on 850rpm without judder, the PAS idle up system works fine so no extra throttle is needed round corners even at very low speed high angle. The bastard thing also turns off when I ask it to! Because the first cold start was blowing crap through we don't know if it works fine but I should find out tonight. In normal running its smoother with no judder in the throttle and the power delivery from 3900-4300 RPM is awesome compared to what it used to be - I can really feel it working now. Gaskets had to be marked with pencil and cut with a stanley blade: Alot of the idle issues were traced to a poorly adjusted (tight) throttle cable, which after a few tries was perfected KP
  8. Cheers mate. I have been busy getting it back together now and I even decided to give the cam cover a quick lick of paint. The Head is fitted now and I'll adjust the tappets once the engine has been heated up. I took the time to clear up the piston tops too and I noticed that the water jackets have been corroding away where previous owners haven't been filling it with antifreeze.... so the deck will be scrap once they break through. They were so coked up I managed to fill a cap from a screenwash bottle with the deposits I scraped out. The new vacuum lines are mostly installed. I also fitted up the cover among other things like a new oil filter and all sorts of misc. stuff about the engine bay. I will be giving the cover another coat of paint but for now it will do - just need to touch it up later once I'm done knocking it about. KP
  9. Some big updates for the Liftback - I have reassembled the head and manifold, but I am now waiting on the extra vacuum lines I ordered. Turn out there are more than 3 metres of vacuum line on this engine! Here are a couple pictures of me lapping the valves to get them seated properly once again after I cleaned them up on the bench grinder. When it came to reassembling the valve-train I had lost the spring seat to valve 12 when washing the cylinder head, so I had to wait a day for one of the engineers to knock up a new seat for me. Luckily it was sorted soon enough: The chemicals in the wash tank finished off the O-Rings for the electrical sensors so I had to replace those with fresh ones I had: Next up was the carburettor and vacuum lines. I decided to change every single one whilst checking all diaphragms and one-way check valves. Everything turned out ok but I ran out of vacuum line So I have some more to do later this week but there is always something to do. The camshaft is assembled as well with new distributor oil seals to stop that oil leak. I have also refitted the fuel pump with new gaskets and silicone to make sure it all holds fast this time. Shouldn't be much longer now until it's all up and running again! Can't wait to see if it's made a difference to power, idle, cold start and shut down KP
  10. Ouch that's not fun Thanks for contributing mate anything on the 2E is new to me. If someone could explain what each of the vacuum diaphragms does around the carburettor that would be excellent because so far I don't understand what half of them are. When I then start to look at the linkages and butterflies I've had it First to come off was the intake manifold and the carburettor which revealed that the lower bolt second in from the right was finger tight - not something that had happened during removal of the cylinder head; this was someone else's work. This should at least partially explain the air-leak Jasper! Upon removing the valvetrain it seems the valves are all coked up even behind the valve head. The good news is that the guide wear is minimal as each valve shows little to no excess movement radially in the guide. The second inlet valve of cylinder 4 was rather stuck so that needs to be checked for straightness and cleaned. One of the valves was run through a wire wheel which got it gleaming without any hassle. Next week will see the rest of the valves cleaned up. The Head itself has escaped without any cracks or fractures. Further to that the coolant jackets also appear to have survived with minimal corrosion, unlike the 4A-GE engine in the GTi which had some rather corroded jackets. Carbon build-up: Scrubbing begins: The combustion chambers took hours to clean up properly, and even then it still needs more work. Between over-used scotch-brite and chemicals that haven't been replaced since the place was built it is extremely difficult to clean anything properly. They do know a chemical cleaning company but it's £50 for this head... way too much for this build. More to come possibly this Friday. Porting isn't happening as it really isn't needed although I will de-burr the edges of the ports and lap in the valves. KP
  11. Thanks Leccie I will take a look for these things - I've been poking around a lot more today to make more sense of things. I managed to get the Head off, although I did spend most of my time labeling each vacuum line and junction before I actually started to take it apart. Anyway as far as I can tell the block is in good nick as are the bores, however they do need carbon deposits taking off the top lips. I haven't had a chance to peel off the gasket yet but that will happen tomorrow morning when I bring the Head in for its skimming: The pistons are getting pitted and coked up very badly so I will have to weigh up the merits of removing the engine and doing a rebuild. And for the Head itself - the valves are also coked and in need of re-seating. I can see why it runs on so badly now! Cylinder 1: Cylinder 2: Cylinder 3: Cylinder 4: Tomorrow is the skimming of the fireface and dismantling of the valvetrain. Hopefully I'll be able to get the skim sorted and start a little bit of porting and polishing. KP
  12. Not many updates but I have fitted a new fuel filter and replaced the crusty drivers seat with a spare I had lying around. It's now soft and crease-free! It does need a clean though: Engine strip starts next week! KP
  13. If the switch isn't activating the motor then you likely have a faulty switch. Go to a breakers yard and take on off another E12 Corolla, I bet they're all the same. KP
  14. £1000 to repair really isn't worth it for a CTS. Their prices have fallen through the floor recently and there's no chance of you making that money back. My dad has had a mint CTS Facelift for sale for ages at £2500 and not a sniff! KP
  15. That's a good point - if you have recently performed a coolant change, the loss could easily be the system filling in all the air gaps. KP
  16. I feel your pain. I've had the heater and rear window heater on constantly since I started driving... could've picked nicer conditions I think. I am just praying my matrix doesn't pack up! Make sure your remove any splash guards/trays that block access to the engine bay from underneath as they make it harder to spot and hear leaks etc. KP
  17. You're not the first and certainly not going to be the last to do this. I don't know from experience but I'd imagine you have simply blow a few fuses. Remember there are several fuse boxes in a modern car, so just checking the one in the foot well often isn't a thorough check. Did you not hear any sparks or smell burning etc? You're likely in need of new control modules and relays etc... KP
  18. To identify a coolant leak I start by running the engine at operating temperature for 20 minutes or so and then switch it off. I'll have the bonnet open and just poke my head into the engine bay to listen for tell-tale hissing sounds of water escaping under pressure. Perform a thorough visual inspection of all cooling system fittings; look at the connections to and from anything to do with the cooling system for the classic crusty crystal deposits that antifreeze leaves behind. For engines with an iron block or head you will also likely see some brown rusty looking staining, another sign that there is a coolant leak local to that area. Check the header tank itself for fatigue/stress marks in the plastic that may expand at full temperature and allow coolant through. To check for a fault with the heater matrix you can run the car for a week or so with the heater set to cold so as to shut the heater valve off. If you find the rate of coolant loss is reduced then you can put money on it being the matrix. Check your carpets for dampness and staining near the centre console section; this is where the water will drip or gather if there is a problem with the matrix. Radiator caps can weaken and bleed off pressure too, so get to halfords or something similar and just replace the cap with a like-for-like cap. You'll find they're the same as fitted to most Citroens running anything from 0.3-1.2 BAR pressure. Mine is a 0.9BAR cap but so long as it's the same or higher you won't have any problems. By replacing my radiator cap I solved a serious overheating issue - just a few quid so swap it first before you go taking the head off or swapping out water pumps or matrices etc. KP
  19. We made it! :D I called Admiral first thing, got myself insured and then whaddyaknow within a few hours I had the motor ready to go :D These aren't pictures of everything as there was a mad rush to get out of halls today, but it's the main welding stuff. Plus I managed to drive her back without any hiccups... well nothing more than an asshat Civic cutting me up but what else can you expect? :P Hole was patched since taking the photo. I'll be tidying it all up and refitting the interior after the christmas holidays, for now this'll have to do! :D KP
  20. Cheers fella - I feel like I should have a pipe and a flat peak cap in the glove box. The alloys we have been looking at are the Corolla G6R alloys: Thanks for looking mate, I hope it's interesting :) KP
  21. I have plenty of answers for that lot - although it usually involved a good stiff drink. ;) KP
  22. Good! And I know, but it's easy to forget that not everyone knows what you're on about :lol; When people ask me how the car is doing I always say just see for yourself. Saves a lot of hassle. :P Do you want anything else explained mate? :) KP
  23. This is a shot of the same area from a different angle. The section highlighted in white is where the hinge for the back rest bolts to - this is the bit that allows the rear seats to fold down. The section highlighted in purple to the left labelled 'seatbelt mount' is where the seatbelt bolts onto the chassis. This much rust in this 'prescribed' area is an immediate MOT failure. The section highlighted in red is the whole suspension turret - the turret is an integral part of the chassis; the rear suspension (spring and damper) bolt directly to this. Excessive rust on this component results in reduced torsional strength in the rear of the chassis. A crash with the turret in this condition would kill me and possibly poison local wildlife for years to come from the dissipation of rust particles. The back seats also rest upon the turret - this is all usually covered with plastic trim however I had to remove mine after the flood. KP
  24. haha! I was merely trying to highlight the horror of being able to see the parking bay through the floor of the car I'll try another picture to give you an idea of what everything is on an assembly level rather than component level. Back in 15 :D KP
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