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About Dippy

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  1. TPA800. Here's the manual. https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/{11DDB08B-1F4F-0BEC-D884-C2541BC01F4F}/TPA800 AOM 000 032-1 PZ464-00425-00 PZ464-N0425-00 PZ464-X0425-00 PZ464-E8425-00.pdf
  2. I heard modern batteries have a date stamp MM/YY by one of the terminals. If it's more than 4 years old consider another.
  3. ISTR the part number is TP800, can you find an online manual that explains it?
  4. Isn’t that to control the FRONT parking sensors? I have them (2008 model). I forgot what it does, start them above 10mph or stop them below... Nor aware of a button controlling the rear.
  5. I guess it's not strictly that they are no good, just they are one of the least comfortable options for road driving. AT is All Terrain, not sure about HT (Half Terrain?!) and even my HT were pretty noisy on the motorway, AT must be awful. As my car sort of lives on the motorway (we are 5 mins away and junctions are every 5 mins), it was quite noticeable. I don't even see mud in my tyres, let alone snow or rocks (LOTS of rain though) so I recently chose between Goodyear Eagle and Michelins after reading several reviews. I was all prepared to save 120 with the Goodyears but then got a quote
  6. Highly personal and unconventional ... in silver or black?? Who paid the marketing dept?
  7. Would you use a smartphone? Apple CarPlay etc. I heard great stories about the Pioneer SPH-DA230DAB.
  8. I have a 2008, not auto. I thought I had a diff lock button... maybe it's the 4x4 button. Car not with me right now, having new shocks done. Just changed my tyres from Bridgestone Dueller HT to Michelin Pilot Sport, partly as it never goes off road it's a family car, and a bit as I got a great deal on the MPS. Road noise notably quieter! In fairness the previous tyres were from 2013 so probably quite hard rubber by now.
  9. Many thanks Ian. I found a few threads, including one on RAV4World, which suggested that 100k was towards the upper life of the shocks. As it also suggested OEM shocks were as good as any other, and they were inexpensive (35 USD I think?!), it seems likely I'll do that - but yes, will check the prices. Bushings (rubber mounts?) is another thing to consider... hmm...
  10. Being in France, with higher resale value than UK, you will have to make your own cost benefit calculation as to repair or dump.
  11. UPDATE at 183 000km / 12 years old. Changed the tyres. While up on the lift, it was very obvious that front suspension boots were shredded (like, they are barely worth being there). There is a fair bit to dismantle just to change the boots. And with suspension at that age, one wonders if it is worth changing shocks and springs. We have a vibrating plate test for the shocks in the MoT and apparently they're still pretty good. Car has probably never seen off-road, but a fair bit of short-distance motorway and our local forgiving speed bumps. I'm sure it's "how long is a piec
  12. I did my 2008 like that by myself, no problem.
  13. Certain Toyota engines were notorious for this but I thought they were about 2005-2009, and the problem was solved 2010 onwards. I wonder if his diagnosis was accurate, or he just repeated what he'd heard elsewhere. Can you get a trusted second opinion from someone else?
  14. Can't answer, but 10 years after the Great DCAT Disaster of needing to replace short engines in RAV4, Avensis, Lexus 220, I'm generally wondering what is the cheapest and most efficient way of dealing with one of those dodgy 2AD-FHV engines these days. Has anyone worked out what else of similar power swaps in with the least hassle? I think the problem in the UK is these cars are now valued at 2-3k so it's uneconomic to repair them. Where I am my car is still valued at 10k plus so I'd be interested.
  15. My gutless 2008 had a loose vacuum hose and also a broken cable to the MAF. I could imagine either of these causing your problem, eg if the car goes round a bend or over a bump. Unlikely, but ideas for you. Good luck.
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