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gazza1286 last won the day on October 20 2017

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About gazza1286

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    Avensis 1.8SE 2000; MR2 MKII - Rev3 1996; Avensis 1.8 TR 2008; Celica VVTL-i 2005; MR2 mk3 2006
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  1. Not sure what you mean. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312039163200 The hex moulding on the right of the image is designed to accept a socket (on a breaker bar) which then is the leverage to rotate the entire assembly around the bolt going through the hole at the top of the image. This releases the tension on the auxiliary belt to allow replacement. There is no 'adjustment' as such. If the damper has failed the complete unit should be swapped over. Failing that, just the damper will be a dealer only part I suspect so expect t
  2. You are correct. Disconnecting the wiring behind the mirror cowling stops the annoying rain senor wiper function and the auto headlights.
  3. AFAIK neither the arb bushes or the drop-links are subject to loading in any position. The bushes allow the arb to rotate/flex dependent on the road conditions. The drop-links are greased ball and socket assemblies which allow limited articulation of the arb ends. It's the metalastic bushes within the hub or trailing arms etc are subject to loading and are usually tightened when the car is in a neutral position - wheels on the ground.
  4. They are always available on eBay. Many aftermarket alloys have tapered nut seats. You cannot use standard Toyota wheel nuts (which are flat) on this type. Is this why you've dropped one?
  5. Yes - new studs can be fitted without any disassembly.
  6. The pumps are attached/adjacent to the washer bottle. Access isn't too bad. Remove the right front wheel and bits of liner around the bumper. Hopefully just some hose will have popped off. Replacement pumps can be sourced on eBay for not a lot. If the pump is working don't assume a blockage. Swap the pumps over as the inner seals may have failed causing reduced pressure. The feed to the rear washer will be via the roof if it's the same as the hatchback. Removing the headliner will be a nightmare.
  7. These light fittings are not Toyota's greatest design. Even changing a bulb can take an age. I ended up lying on my back with legs dangling out to achieve a reasonable position to even see what I was doing! Get a friend to hold a torch while you do this and you'll be halfway there...
  8. I think the unit fitted is an electronic flasher. It's a dealer part and AFAIK there is no after-market equivalent. It is situated behind the instrument binnacle on the dashboard. The hazard warning unit is next to it. I was looking to swap it out a couple of years ago when I was exploring ways to increase the indicator volume which is woefully quiet on this car.
  9. Springs and dampers are always sold individually. I suspect that it's the same spring across the t25 range (excluding possibly the rear on an estate version). Give the supplier a ring - they will be able to clarify. BTW - changing both springs at the same time would be advisable - particularly for the front. The new replacement may not have the same characteristics as the oem spring on the other side leading to possible poor handling.
  10. You probably have a perished hose between the inlet manifold and the brake servo. You might be able to hear a faint hissing within the engine bay near the bulkhead on the offside which could indicate a vacuum hose leak. The hose can fail at either end and trimming it may be enough or maybe the clamp is failing. Worst case would be a fail servo unit. These should be available from a breaker to keep costs down.
  11. That brace has helped me numerous times over the years - mainly for removing crankshaft pulley wheels to replace timing belts. Something else which seems to be consigned to history as manufacturers all seem to be switching over to timing chains....
  12. Brave man. You'll need more than a hammer and punch. Personally I'd just disconnect the hub assembly and take that and the bearing to a local garage that has a press to hand. It only cost me £20 last time I did it. I can't recall the size of the drive shaft nut but they easily come off with a medium breaker bar (1/2") and a short length of scaffolding pipe. I've always used a couple of lengths roofing bar to brace the hub using the studs. The bars are bolted together (left of image) and they brace against the ground. See below (available from Jewsons) you just need to drill a coup
  13. AFAIK all rear hard pipes run from the flexi connectors back to the engine compartment. On Toyotas where I've replaced pipes there is a splitter/compensator block bolted to the bulkhead. You only have two options. 1 - cut the pipe (and reflare) beyond the rot and replace with short length of new brake pipe. Not really a DIY option as the tool to reflare the hard metal pipes isn't cheap. 2 - replace the full length of pipe. This is a DIY option but only if you're competent/experienced. As the pipe is leaking, you must get it repaired immediately - it's dangerous.
  14. This link describes how to test for a faulty brake servo:- http://www.ukmot.com/MOT test/footbrake.asp On my 1999 Mk1 Avensis, the issue of soft brake pedal occurred very rarely. But only when the car was being driven slowly and only when the engine was at idle. I never identified the fault but also believed it was linked to a problem with the servo. Presumably the linkage on your car has been eliminated as the cause?
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