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gazza1286

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Everything posted by gazza1286

  1. Not sure what you mean. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312039163200 The hex moulding on the right of the image is designed to accept a socket (on a breaker bar) which then is the leverage to rotate the entire assembly around the bolt going through the hole at the top of the image. This releases the tension on the auxiliary belt to allow replacement. There is no 'adjustment' as such. If the damper has failed the complete unit should be swapped over. Failing that, just the damper will be a dealer only part I suspect so expect to pay dearly.
  2. You are correct. Disconnecting the wiring behind the mirror cowling stops the annoying rain senor wiper function and the auto headlights.
  3. AFAIK neither the arb bushes or the drop-links are subject to loading in any position. The bushes allow the arb to rotate/flex dependent on the road conditions. The drop-links are greased ball and socket assemblies which allow limited articulation of the arb ends. It's the metalastic bushes within the hub or trailing arms etc are subject to loading and are usually tightened when the car is in a neutral position - wheels on the ground.
  4. They are always available on eBay. Many aftermarket alloys have tapered nut seats. You cannot use standard Toyota wheel nuts (which are flat) on this type. Is this why you've dropped one?
  5. Yes - new studs can be fitted without any disassembly.
  6. The pumps are attached/adjacent to the washer bottle. Access isn't too bad. Remove the right front wheel and bits of liner around the bumper. Hopefully just some hose will have popped off. Replacement pumps can be sourced on eBay for not a lot. If the pump is working don't assume a blockage. Swap the pumps over as the inner seals may have failed causing reduced pressure. The feed to the rear washer will be via the roof if it's the same as the hatchback. Removing the headliner will be a nightmare.
  7. These light fittings are not Toyota's greatest design. Even changing a bulb can take an age. I ended up lying on my back with legs dangling out to achieve a reasonable position to even see what I was doing! Get a friend to hold a torch while you do this and you'll be halfway there...
  8. I think the unit fitted is an electronic flasher. It's a dealer part and AFAIK there is no after-market equivalent. It is situated behind the instrument binnacle on the dashboard. The hazard warning unit is next to it. I was looking to swap it out a couple of years ago when I was exploring ways to increase the indicator volume which is woefully quiet on this car.
  9. Springs and dampers are always sold individually. I suspect that it's the same spring across the t25 range (excluding possibly the rear on an estate version). Give the supplier a ring - they will be able to clarify. BTW - changing both springs at the same time would be advisable - particularly for the front. The new replacement may not have the same characteristics as the oem spring on the other side leading to possible poor handling.
  10. You probably have a perished hose between the inlet manifold and the brake servo. You might be able to hear a faint hissing within the engine bay near the bulkhead on the offside which could indicate a vacuum hose leak. The hose can fail at either end and trimming it may be enough or maybe the clamp is failing. Worst case would be a fail servo unit. These should be available from a breaker to keep costs down.
  11. That brace has helped me numerous times over the years - mainly for removing crankshaft pulley wheels to replace timing belts. Something else which seems to be consigned to history as manufacturers all seem to be switching over to timing chains....
  12. Brave man. You'll need more than a hammer and punch. Personally I'd just disconnect the hub assembly and take that and the bearing to a local garage that has a press to hand. It only cost me £20 last time I did it. I can't recall the size of the drive shaft nut but they easily come off with a medium breaker bar (1/2") and a short length of scaffolding pipe. I've always used a couple of lengths roofing bar to brace the hub using the studs. The bars are bolted together (left of image) and they brace against the ground. See below (available from Jewsons) you just need to drill a couple of the larger holes to fit over the wheel studs. Extra care is required for the abs sensors. I prefer to leave them on the hub and thread the wiring from the engine bar as they can be easily damaged. (not had to remove them from the latest Avensis so the design may have changed).
  13. AFAIK all rear hard pipes run from the flexi connectors back to the engine compartment. On Toyotas where I've replaced pipes there is a splitter/compensator block bolted to the bulkhead. You only have two options. 1 - cut the pipe (and reflare) beyond the rot and replace with short length of new brake pipe. Not really a DIY option as the tool to reflare the hard metal pipes isn't cheap. 2 - replace the full length of pipe. This is a DIY option but only if you're competent/experienced. As the pipe is leaking, you must get it repaired immediately - it's dangerous.
  14. This link describes how to test for a faulty brake servo:- http://www.ukmot.com/MOT test/footbrake.asp On my 1999 Mk1 Avensis, the issue of soft brake pedal occurred very rarely. But only when the car was being driven slowly and only when the engine was at idle. I never identified the fault but also believed it was linked to a problem with the servo. Presumably the linkage on your car has been eliminated as the cause?
  15. Came across the issue last year. The fibrous matting attached to the rear wheel arch hides a nasty secret... The metal brake pipes curl around the front edge of the wheel arch recess. This is covered by this matting which is invariably damp. Consequently these pipes are prone to rust. Removing the matting and applying generous quantities of smoothrite has, in my case, delayed the advancing rot.
  16. Hi - I've just noticed that there is a build up of condensation around the tailgate brake light on my wife's 2008 t25. Can't say I've seen this before. On the glass there is a suggestion that the area is possibly part of the heated rear window element. Can anyone confirm this or is it purely cosmetic. I know that the upper element is actually the car aerial. Many thanks
  17. My 2008 suffered the same problem a few years ago. The light fittings were fully removed from the vehicle and dried out indoors using a hairdryer blasting warm air into the units. Took around 10-15 minutes each just to clear the moisture - probably better to leave overnight. I never positively identified the cause but suspected that one of the rubber seals for the bulb fittings wasn't seated correctly. Never had any problems since. Getting rid of the condensation with the fitting on the vehicle is not really an option. Personally I would delay this until the spring. Removing the units is awkward and the battery needs to be removed for access.
  18. This will fit if any Mk1 will do https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302413603971
  19. I've reread your post.... You're saying that the engine always stalls unless the clutch is depressed? Maybe the car is in gear even when you think it's in neutral ... Have you checked the gear selector cables? If one is broken you would get full movement at the gear knob but nothing at the gearbox. I also presume that there's no drop in the fluid reservoir? Leaks on the master cylinder are difficult to spot.
  20. The Yatour adaptor does not list the w58830 either. I would imagine that it will work but try emailing the vendor first. They will probably be happy to supply the unit and offer you a refund if it doesn't work with your head unit. http://www.ycarlink.com/pd_10512_USB-Car-Stereo-Adapter-MP3-AUX-Bluetooth-interface-CD-Changer-for-Toyota-Lexus-Scion-Small-6-6-plug-2003-2013.htm
  21. My 2008 has the standard 3-button key. I fitted a CR2016. There's a number of YouTube videos which describes the process. However I couldn't find a one which was specific for that particular key - but the principal is the same. A watchmaker's cross head driver is required. Make sure you apply firm downward pressure to avoid rounding the screw.
  22. The video guidance is wrong. If you follow my suggestion by removing all four plugs at the same time and then unbolting the wiring harness, there'll be no problem. The clips should never be forced. Once the clip is raised to clear the tab, a broad tipped screwdriver is then used to gently lever the plug away from the igniter socket. Good luck.
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