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Jack Taylor

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Everything posted by Jack Taylor

  1. Brilliant news! πŸ˜„ It looks neat now! Engine bay is nice and tidy and the front on the photos look good!
  2. The metallic blue sounds nice. Not sure about the red accents. It is tempting to go two tone so bottom half one colour, roof another colour, or something like this. We're really not sure at the moment. Just whatever we think looks nicest I think. πŸ˜„
  3. Cheers! πŸ˜„ We'll get there with it in time! The biggest discussion at the moment is what colour we want to go for it! 🀣 I like the idea of a dark metallic red or blue.
  4. Hi TimRussia, How did you get on with your project? Are you still working on it?
  5. Well it's back from the welders. They had to rebuild the entire right hand sill, most of the left sill, both rear arches, the two rear door bottom corners and the front right arch. They did a load of work, and now it's time to just get a bit of paint on it (Amazingly we have found a full can of colour matched paint). This is basically just going to be sprayed on to stop it rusting through the primer until we fully strip, filler, and paint it. On another note, the carb seems to be clearing up the more we run the car and move it around. Before it would stumble when revved hard (blips of the throttle), but now it appears that his has cleared up and it revs very smoothly.
  6. Just to update this a little. The project hasn't stopped. The car has been sent off for a serious amount of welding to be carried out! I am not sure how long it'll take, but hopefully not too long! πŸ˜„ Fingers crossed all goes to plan.
  7. Right! We have a date for the welding work. It's going to a local garage on the 28th February! So, before then I have loads of bits to strip off, clean up, box and refurbish. Plenty to get busy on now!
  8. Well! It's good news. We've had a quote for the welding, we have hummed and pondered over it for a while and then decided that "There are much worse things to spend money on than a good project" so it has been given the go-ahead. We are getting it booked in for a lot of the metal work soon, so prior to that I'll be stripping the car down as much as possible and refurbishing the parts I can in the garage as I take them off and box them up for storage. πŸ˜„ More updates to follow. πŸ˜„
  9. Today was a quick day on the car. I ticked off a couple of little things. The first one being the poor fitting pipe that I bought for the breather. I replaced it with softer, thinner walled silicon hose which has fit perfectly. The second issue solved was the sticking choke that was causing poor starts from cold. The flap for some reason would never quite close fully. I have since found out that the last time I had the carb apart (a few years back) I had refit the linkage from the choke incorrectly! Annoyingly, I have since had the carb apart 2/3 times, and every time I have reassembled it how it was when I incorrectly put it back together the first time! It is now, MUCH easier to start, and idles when cold correclty! πŸ˜„ I had the linkage going through the large hole in the top of the first picture! As you can see in the second picture, there is a smaller linkage hole behind this one on a different lever! That is the one the linkage was supposed to be in! On a not so good note, we had a guy from the local bodywork specialist come and look at the rust and welding required. He reckons it'd be at least a weeks work (Which at who knows how much per hour) is probably going to cost a serious amount of money! Either we need to bite the bullet and accept the initial outlay to get this project off the ground, or we need to get good at welding... fast...
  10. Today I replaced any vacuum pipe that I have disturbed. Some were really broken on the ends which I think would have been causing air leaks. The large breather (9.5mm) is really quite stiff pipe and as such needs a different type buying. It fits, but it's tight up against the bottom of the air filter housing which is annoying. I have now ordered some thinner walled 9mm ID silicone hose for that and will try that instead. The small 4mm pipes fit nice and snug, but the little "clamps" that came with the pipe have pretty much zero strength to them which is annoying. Oh well! I suppose with the hose being pretty tight on the metal pipes it should be okay anyway I would think. I also used one of these to test the head gasket. It seemed to bubble through from the radiator, but didn't change colour, so hopefully that's a good sign!
  11. Tonight was a quick night of work. Just decided to start it up to let it warm, and then also measure the vacuum hose connection pipes using a set of digital calipers that I borrowed from a friend at work. I have found the following sizes for the required internal diameters of the hoses. (For anyone that needs that info). Small cam cover breather (plumbs into filter housing) - 6.30mm Vacuum pipe (To valve on rear of filter housing) - 6.30mm Large cam cover breather (Plums into intake manifold) - 9.50mm All small control pipework for carburetor vacuum conections & actuators - 4.00mm I have now ordered a 1m length of each of the sizes, along with some nice little spring clips, and a couple of larger jubilee clips for the 9.50mm hose.
  12. That looks like it has potential! I am struggling to find the part number itself for the rebuild kit at the moment. Annoyingly I think I had it previously. Can't remember where I saw it though. 😞
  13. If it seals it seals! 🀣 Specially in the outback when you need to get back to safety.
  14. I like the idea and the method, but I didn't think it'd work that well for the detailed parts of the carb. Not to mention if I damaged it I'd be left without a carb then. 🀣
  15. Nice! It's not something I want to do again too often, although as I can't buy them I'm sure I will have to at some point. πŸ˜•
  16. I'm not particularly counting, but I've had about 6 days on it with probably 2-3 hours per day. A lot of my time is spent messing about as it's all a bit trial and error at the moment. I can now take apart and put together a carb very quickly though which will help going forward. 🀣 I plan to keep this thread updated with how things are going, and hopefully I won't loose motivation with it as I will have a good tracker of what has been done and how far it has come. I suppose that £25k was the extra couple of hundred hours or so hours they would have to put in to make it perfect?
  17. I have had chance to do a little bit more work on this car yesterday. I decided to tackle the lovely challenge of making a gasket for the top of the carburetor. Opening it up at all in the first place was probably a bad idea (however it wouldn't start so doing so was the only option I think). The process I took to make a new gasket was the following. Use drawing charcoal to rub over the face of the top of the carburetor, making sure to coat it in as much powder as possible. I got some normal paper, and cut bits out for the high points on the carb top cover, then pressed it onto the top cover leaving a charcoal imprint on the paper. I then drew round the charcoal to make it easier to see, filling in any gaps I noticed by eye. Then I cut that template out, and glued it onto some gasket paper. Using a scalpel I then cut the gasket out (Real pain in the backside!) I then cleaned off both the mating faces on the carb and fit the new gasket. The car fires up much easier now, and doesn't struggle as much to stay running. I now need to replace all the vacuum lines as the revs hang when letting off the accelerator (which I think is a combination of both a vacuum leak somewhere and a slightly sticky throttle control mechanism.
  18. Hi Flash22. I think that might be something that needs doing. The float chamber on the carburetor seems to stay nice and level (mid way) though, so I am assuming it is getting enough fuel to not be starving. If anything it smells really rich. Like you say though, the carb is almost certainly in a bad way, and I really need to get it rebuilt and properly cleaned out. I will PM you the VIN later if that is okay? πŸ™‚ Thanks!
  19. Hi again all! I have had another play around with this car again today. I have been trying to improve how easy it is to start it up, but nothing I seem to do wants to help get it going other than manually closing the choke flap, and then fighting the revs for ages until it warms up. I had a go at adjusting the choke electronic control, turning it as far anti-clockwise as I could (to richen the mixture). This doesn't seemed to have helped, and the choke flap still stays open about 2mm when the car is cold. I have also spent this morning flushing out the coolant system as well. The wather was rather filthy and I'm hoping there isn't too much damage to the inside of the block / heater matrix as the dirt can only be coming from rust I assume? I have refilled with as much 50/50 coolant antifreeze mix as possible. I reckon I am probably up to around 30% antifreeze concentration as I don't think I managed to fully drain some parts of the system before adding the 50/50 mix. The engine seems to be extremely difficult to start, and kicks out a lot of white smoke. I am hoping that the water jacket / cylinders aren't leaking. I am not sure how to test for that. I am assuming one of those liquid tests that change colour with the presence of exhaust gas in the coolant? I have a few questions I am hoping people maybe able to answer. I am assuming there maybe vacuum leaks. I haven't got anything to measure diameters currently. Does anyone know the range of diameters of vacuum hose that connect all the carb, intake manifold, and distributor? I'd like to get some and fully redo them all to rule that out. I have disconnected and blanked the AAP system as I heard this can cause poor running and missfiring if it's leaking fuel into the intake manifold. This didn't fix the poor running. Any other ideas? It smells like it's running really rich, but I can't adjust the mix as it has a weird cap on it, and I'm not convinced that's the issue. Does anyone know where I might be able to find a carburetor gasket kit? I have had it apart and done my best with gasket sealant, but this might be the root of a lot of my issues! Thanks for reading! πŸ˜„
  20. In some parts of the UK it is still 0 but the website can be a bit vague. As you say it's legally mandated to say E5 however their website states. "Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). Legislation requires us to place these E5 labels on pumps that dispense unleaded petrol with β€˜up to 5% ethanol’, including those that contain no ethanol, which is why we display them on our Synergy Supreme+ 99 pumps." This is for UK though so you'd have to check their website for local to you.
  21. Hi All. I am in the process of attempting to revive and rebuild a Toyota Carina from 1990. The carburettor has had loads of tinkering and messing with, and I'd like to give it a good rebuild, clean out and re-gasket. The only parts I can find are from the US at the moment. Also, there are Carburettors available, but they don't have a brand, and often these are worse than the ones already on the cars. Does anyone have either a 4af K-Type carburettor, or a carburettor rebuild kit that they'd sell? If so, how much would you want for it? I have attached a diagram picture of the carburettor. Many Thanks! Jack
  22. Afternoon all. Good news. The car lives! I decided to mess about some more today and see if I could get it to fire up again. I have found something rather strange that allows it to run. If I hold the choke flap shut when first starting the engine, it will fire. When it is just sat cold, for some reason that flap doesn't shut fully (Which I believe it should?). I have put a little red arrow to it on the photo below. Once it is fired up, you have to keep the revs up, otherwise the flap will open again and kill the engine. Once warm however, it'll stay running and idle lovely. (All be it at a slightly higher than needed RPM, 1500rpm). I ran it up to full temperature, then turned it off and it fired back up with a little effort. I have put a gallon or so of fresh fuel into the tank and will be getting some more 0 ethanol fuel from Esso tomorrow to fill it up some more. What I think I need to do now is find a refurb kit for the carb. So far I have not been able to find one other than in America with a price of $99 dollars and most likely extortionate shipping costs to the UK. This is the carb I have, so if anyone knows anywhere that has one, please shout up! It's the K-Type carburettor. It has the long float bowl and then two venturi sections.
  23. This makes no sense at all. They clearly aren't differentiating between crashes caused by "Excessive Speed" and crashed caused by "Breaking the Speed Limit" I know plenty of roads where they are 60 zones but there is no way a normal car would be able to cope at 60mph because it's excessive for that road. Putting limiters on will just make people sit with their foot down sitting on the max "Limit" of the road regardless of conditions and capabilities of the cars. I reckon it'll cause more harm than good as people will think "Might as well use my full limit" all the time, especially new drivers.
  24. So, today has been somewhat of a sucessful failure. I decided to try and prove out the problem with the fuel system. The first step, was removing the fuel supply pipe (from the filter) and the fuel return pipe from the solid metal pipe that returns to tank. I then put both end of those pipes into a glass jar and filled with fuel. I removed the banjo bolt that connects to the carb, and turned the engine over. Fuel was pumping fine from the banjo connection, so the fuel pump is definitely good! Next challenge was to re-connect the banjo, and then check the float in the side of the carb. No fuel (or very little) appeared to be making it into this chamber. I decided to take apart the carburettor (The top half anyway) and attempt to get at the needle valve seat mesh filter. I managed to use a very large flat head screwdriver, with an adjustable spanner on the handle to snap it free. (It was very tight as to be expected for a 31 year old joint). The mesh was a total green clogged mess. Which is weird, as when it was used it didn't really have an issue with fueling. I cleaned the mesh gauze, and reinstalled it. Then reassembled the carb. I turned the car over (using fuel from a jar still) and it fired first time. I kept the revs up at around 2000rpm and it ran for around 60 seconds, as soon as I let go of the accelerator, it idled for about 2 seconds then died. I went back out after the rain, and had another look at it. Looking through the sight glass on the side of the carb, it appears that the fuel level is too high. (Nearly over the top of the glass). The only logical thing I can think, is that I've knocked the float or not sealed the needle valve body well enough and it is overflowing the float chamber? This wouldn't be an issue perhaps at higher revs (when I was holding it at 2000rpm), but then floods the engine at lower RPM once revs are dropped? We couldn't get it to start after the initial run unfortunately. Any ideas would be much appreciated! Cheers.
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