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Tech01 last won the day on November 14 2013

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About Tech01

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    RAV4.2 D4D manual 5dr LHD, Malaga, Spain
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  1. I've used Syntrans before (and the previous Syntrax and SMX manual transmission fluids by Castrol), in order to get over problems of gear engagement and shifting in cold weather, and synchromesh baulking. It has always worked well. In this case, it meets the required GL-4, thus protecting soft-metal parts.
  2. Toyota's oil spec for the 'box is quite fussy - seeming to need a 'straight' 75W, and GL-4 or GL-5 according to the Toyota manuals I have here. A good bit was posted here some years ago about this. Straight 75W (ie 75W/75) can be really difficult to find, although I believe Toyota themselves have something suitably expensive. The synchromesh on these boxes can be baulky/clunky/reluctant to smoothly engage, if too thick an oil is used, or if is the wrong spec. Manual boxes on PSA (Peugeot Citroen) experience the same thing, across almost their entire manual 5-speed range. Th
  3. Good advice above - most diesel specialists have a vast array of diagnostic equipment (programmable to be vehicle-specific), and make their living out of diagnosing diesel problems fast. You then have the option of asking them to rectify the fault, of just giving you their diagnosis. They're also not usually interested in selling you lots of unnecessary bits, just in moving on to the next vehicle! Chris
  4. Bought mine (several years ago) from Toyota - 3/8" square drive - and not expensive. Chris
  5. On the 4.2 D4D, temperature (as it affects glow-plug time) = water temperature. Will meter it in the next day or two - an unwelcome cold isn't encouraging me under any bonnets at the moment! Chris
  6. £145 is not a bad price - if you accept that it should cost anything at all! Presume this price was Toyota's ? Chis
  7. The Fox said: "I have put a meter on the glow plug supply when the light goes out on the dash the feed to the glow plugs also stops, but when the ignition key is turned to engage the starter the supply comes back on, it does this on all five vehicles, they are exactly the same." My first reaction is that this doesn't make any sense, and seems to run counter to the temperature (i.e. water temperature) dependent pre-heat and post-heat. Surely it hasn't been done to prevent the glow-plugs continuing to run if the driver didn't effect a start - the plugs would time out anyway. Puzzled... Chris It'
  8. Upping battery CCA from 680 to 800A will provide useful extra cranking speed on a cold day. There are some 830 and 900 to be had. Good point made earlier about replacing the s/motor "appearing" to solve the problem - when what actually happens is that the suspect connection is remade - is a good one. The position of this terminal means it is subjected to plenty of heat, so could well both loosen and oxidize over time. A really meaty spring washer is a good idea to keep things tight. It does seem that D4Ds might be 'programmed' not to start "first tweak" on the key (unlike most French diesel
  9. Unless there are actually bits of the red lens missing, could you not piece together with superglue? Should hardly notice. Otherwise a breaker's yard... Chris
  10. Osram Nightbreakers - which version? The Nightbreakers are an excellent lamp, but it seems there's a good deal of marketing hype, by both the manufacturer and various sellers. If you take a look at this information from Osram http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/automotive-lamps/automotive-cars/halogen-headlight-lamps-for-cars/index.jsp you'll see that there are many variations on the Nightbreaker (and similar) theme, eg Nightbreaker Unlimited, Osram Original Line, and Osram Ultra Life. All are rated at 12v 55W nominal, and all have the same level of light output - 1550 lumens. The Ni
  11. In 2005, BBC Bristol put out 40min documentary, "Rover - the Long Goodbye", which looked back at the glory-days and otherwise of Rover/Leyland. Included contributions from James Taylor, Zog Ziegler, Tiff Needell, Quentin Willson (waxing lyrical from the rear seat of a P6), and footage of a spotty Jeremy Clarkson (wrestling with an SD1 door, and a waterlogged glove compartment). Amazing archive footage, and a sad, sad story of appalling British management which ended with Rover being given away (or was it the taxpayer paying someone to take it?) amid the farce of Towers & co, Shanghai Auto
  12. Austin Allegro - good grief - and such a pretty car . . . I never got to travel or drive in an Ambassador, but they did look good on the road. Wasn't is known as The Flying Cheesewedge? BL's (Issigonis's) Hydrolastic suspension was brilliant, on everything except the Mini, which it didn't suit at all. Mini purists went for Alex Moulton's rubber, I remember. Although my first Mini was 1959, my second was a Mini 1000 from 1970, suspendered (also immensely popular at the time) hydrolastically. Quite a different car, and well capable of 44mpg - not bad even by today's standards. What I did fa
  13. Hi James, The data I posted above was for a 4.2, rather than your model, so it's possible that the plugs are a different resistance. (If all the same, and at this kind of figure, than they're probably all ok.) Posted the delay data just to illustrate the point about pre-heat and post-heat. Again, data for yours might be slightly different. Hope useful all the same. Chris
  14. Hi James, On #1, it's quite common for D4Ds (and most diesels) to be a bit more reluctant to start in cold weather. It's normal for the glowplug dash indicator to go out after a couple of seconds, but the glowplugs actually keep working for much longer - and after the engine has fired up: m_st_0001.pdf In cold weather, switch on IGN and wait an additional 5 secs before cranking. Avoid having other significant electrical loads on while you do this. RAV glowplugs seem to enjoy very long lives. If you've done other checks (eg the length of time that they operate, checked with test-lamp or meter
  15. All good fun, except for the rust (fresh from the showroom), wet floors, having to remember to put thin oil in the SU's, wet ignition leads and distributors, leaky exhaust manifolds, almost-impossible fanbelt changes, rotting sub-frames, battery covers that fell off, and oil pressure that slowly reduced over the life of the engine. And all that was just the Mini ! I hit lucky. Bought my first Austin Mini in 1968: it was a 1959 model, and number 501 off the production line - and production numbering started at 101! I bought it for £15 (it was just a body, no engine, and had been sitting on f
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