Tech01

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Tech01 last won the day on November 14 2013

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About Tech01

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  • First Name
    Chris
  • Contributor
    2
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4.2 D4D manual 5dr LHD, Malaga, Spain
  • Toyota Year
    2003
  • Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. I've used Syntrans before (and the previous Syntrax and SMX manual transmission fluids by Castrol), in order to get over problems of gear engagement and shifting in cold weather, and synchromesh baulking. It has always worked well. In this case, it meets the required GL-4, thus protecting soft-metal parts.
  2. Toyota's oil spec for the 'box is quite fussy - seeming to need a 'straight' 75W, and GL-4 or GL-5 according to the Toyota manuals I have here. A good bit was posted here some years ago about this. Straight 75W (ie 75W/75) can be really difficult to find, although I believe Toyota themselves have something suitably expensive. The synchromesh on these boxes can be baulky/clunky/reluctant to smoothly engage, if too thick an oil is used, or if is the wrong spec. Manual boxes on PSA (Peugeot Citroen) experience the same thing, across almost their entire manual 5-speed range. This oil sorts the problem: Total Transmission 8 gear oil, 75W-80, GL-4 The important bit is GL-4. This contains a lesser amount of friction reducing additives, which actually allows the synchromesh rings on these boxes to work correctly. It also does not attack the brass synchro rings, which GL-5 can. The -80 is not an issue, even in very cold weather. There is info on the web about GL-4 and GL-5, and "GL-4/5". GL-5 is NOT an advanced/updated version of -4 ! On both our RAV4-II D4D (and Citroen XM 2.5TD) I have switched to this oil, and have been running it for a few years now. It has improved gear engagement and changes significantly. The easiest place to get it is at a Citroen (or Peugeot) parts counter. Their workshops use it across the range, have it in 200-lit drums for their own use, or in the usual 1L retail packs. When you drain and change over, allow some mileage for the difference to really be noticed, as the brass synchro components take up the new oil.
  3. Good advice above - most diesel specialists have a vast array of diagnostic equipment (programmable to be vehicle-specific), and make their living out of diagnosing diesel problems fast. You then have the option of asking them to rectify the fault, of just giving you their diagnosis. They're also not usually interested in selling you lots of unnecessary bits, just in moving on to the next vehicle! Chris
  4. Bought mine (several years ago) from Toyota - 3/8" square drive - and not expensive. Chris
  5. On the 4.2 D4D, temperature (as it affects glow-plug time) = water temperature. Will meter it in the next day or two - an unwelcome cold isn't encouraging me under any bonnets at the moment! Chris
  6. £145 is not a bad price - if you accept that it should cost anything at all! Presume this price was Toyota's ? Chis
  7. The Fox said: "I have put a meter on the glow plug supply when the light goes out on the dash the feed to the glow plugs also stops, but when the ignition key is turned to engage the starter the supply comes back on, it does this on all five vehicles, they are exactly the same." My first reaction is that this doesn't make any sense, and seems to run counter to the temperature (i.e. water temperature) dependent pre-heat and post-heat. Surely it hasn't been done to prevent the glow-plugs continuing to run if the driver didn't effect a start - the plugs would time out anyway. Puzzled... Chris It's also nowadays unusual for the dash indicator extinguishing to signal anything other than "OK to try starting now". Years ago, the dash light was simply wired into the glow-plug (relay) circuit, and was on for as long as the glow-plugs were powered up. This was ditched by most manufacturers, firstly because, in the early days of diesel passenger cars, owners complained about the protracted time "before you could start them", and, when post-heat was introduced (to reduce starting emissions/smoke), it didn't make any sense to wait that long. More seriously, if it is the case that the glow-plugs cut out when the dash light does, this walks all over the general advice, in very cold weather, to allow some extra time for them to operate before cranking! Will be getting my meter out on our 4.2 this week. C.
  8. Upping battery CCA from 680 to 800A will provide useful extra cranking speed on a cold day. There are some 830 and 900 to be had. Good point made earlier about replacing the s/motor "appearing" to solve the problem - when what actually happens is that the suspect connection is remade - is a good one. The position of this terminal means it is subjected to plenty of heat, so could well both loosen and oxidize over time. A really meaty spring washer is a good idea to keep things tight. It does seem that D4Ds might be 'programmed' not to start "first tweak" on the key (unlike most French diesels), possibly to avoid the possibility of a ragged start - more to do with image, I guess, than anything else. This even affects the way they re-start when right up to temperature. Every winter our 4.2 seems to need a good 5 secs of cranking, even after leaving the plugs working for an extra 15 seconds or more. Come a warm morning, no such problem. Programmed, or just marginal performance? Chris
  9. Unless there are actually bits of the red lens missing, could you not piece together with superglue? Should hardly notice. Otherwise a breaker's yard... Chris
  10. Tech01

    Nightbreakers

    Osram Nightbreakers - which version? The Nightbreakers are an excellent lamp, but it seems there's a good deal of marketing hype, by both the manufacturer and various sellers. If you take a look at this information from Osram http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/automotive-lamps/automotive-cars/halogen-headlight-lamps-for-cars/index.jsp you'll see that there are many variations on the Nightbreaker (and similar) theme, eg Nightbreaker Unlimited, Osram Original Line, and Osram Ultra Life. All are rated at 12v 55W nominal, and all have the same level of light output - 1550 lumens. The Nightbreakers are listed as having a service life of 150/300h. Original Line ('OEM') are 3200K (no coloured coating), but a life of 400/650h. Ultra Life are also 3200K (also no coloured coating), but a life of 1200/2000h. Unlimited are listed as 3400K, but this appears to be down to the partial blue coating, and not the filament being over-run to a higher colour temperature. You might like to take this information into account when shopping around and comparing prices, or if service life is important. It's also possible that some retailers are still offering previous versions of the Nightbreaker lamp. Elsewhere you can find a Nightbreaker "Limited Edition", boasting a gold cap and gold-plated contacts. Definitely one for those with burning wallets and sound systems to match... Chris
  11. In 2005, BBC Bristol put out 40min documentary, "Rover - the Long Goodbye", which looked back at the glory-days and otherwise of Rover/Leyland. Included contributions from James Taylor, Zog Ziegler, Tiff Needell, Quentin Willson (waxing lyrical from the rear seat of a P6), and footage of a spotty Jeremy Clarkson (wrestling with an SD1 door, and a waterlogged glove compartment). Amazing archive footage, and a sad, sad story of appalling British management which ended with Rover being given away (or was it the taxpayer paying someone to take it?) amid the farce of Towers & co, Shanghai Automotive and Tata. (Google Roewe, China to see where it is now.) Watch it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OV-9dVb7keM Chris
  12. Austin Allegro - good grief - and such a pretty car . . . I never got to travel or drive in an Ambassador, but they did look good on the road. Wasn't is known as The Flying Cheesewedge? BL's (Issigonis's) Hydrolastic suspension was brilliant, on everything except the Mini, which it didn't suit at all. Mini purists went for Alex Moulton's rubber, I remember. Although my first Mini was 1959, my second was a Mini 1000 from 1970, suspendered (also immensely popular at the time) hydrolastically. Quite a different car, and well capable of 44mpg - not bad even by today's standards. What I did fancy, but never got, was an Austin 3-litre (lots used by the Army and RAF as staff cars). An old friend in Cheshire, I remember, had a couple of Austin Champs: 3-litre Rolls Royce engine, and six gears in each direction. Then there was the 3.3-litre Powerglide Vauxhall Cresta, under whose bonnet several mechanics could stand in comfort.
  13. Tech01

    2007 4.3 Issues

    Hi James, The data I posted above was for a 4.2, rather than your model, so it's possible that the plugs are a different resistance. (If all the same, and at this kind of figure, than they're probably all ok.) Posted the delay data just to illustrate the point about pre-heat and post-heat. Again, data for yours might be slightly different. Hope useful all the same. Chris
  14. Tech01

    2007 4.3 Issues

    Hi James, On #1, it's quite common for D4Ds (and most diesels) to be a bit more reluctant to start in cold weather. It's normal for the glowplug dash indicator to go out after a couple of seconds, but the glowplugs actually keep working for much longer - and after the engine has fired up: m_st_0001.pdf In cold weather, switch on IGN and wait an additional 5 secs before cranking. Avoid having other significant electrical loads on while you do this. RAV glowplugs seem to enjoy very long lives. If you've done other checks (eg the length of time that they operate, checked with test-lamp or meter at a plug), before being tempted to replace them, try substituting a good new battery. Poor winter starting is often the first sign that a battery, good enough in the summer, is starting to give up on delivering enough current for both starting and simultaneous glowplug operation. (One clue to this condition is that the engine fires only when you release the key: there's immediately a higher voltage feed to the glowplugs.) Chris I'm sure someone else will be able to help with the rattly sunroof problem. Mine does this too, but only when closed. Looks as if it needs a dose of aerosol grease on its tracks.
  15. All good fun, except for the rust (fresh from the showroom), wet floors, having to remember to put thin oil in the SU's, wet ignition leads and distributors, leaky exhaust manifolds, almost-impossible fanbelt changes, rotting sub-frames, battery covers that fell off, and oil pressure that slowly reduced over the life of the engine. And all that was just the Mini ! I hit lucky. Bought my first Austin Mini in 1968: it was a 1959 model, and number 501 off the production line - and production numbering started at 101! I bought it for £15 (it was just a body, no engine, and had been sitting on four small oil-drums in someone's front garden in Lymm, Cheshire. Had been used for "rallying", and had had its engine borrowed. A further £15 bought me a Morris 1300 engine, and a friend gave me a Mini gearbox to borrow the diff cogs from. I rebuilt the engine, and had a seriously fun car. The oddity was, though, the body never rusted! Why? Because Austin-Morris, god bless them, built the first 500 or so Minis from a different steel from the subsequent ones, the result being no rust, and a body shell 60lb lighter. Someone in marketing must have told them this wasn't a good idea . . .