alan333

If a direct power (and earth) feed to the starter (and the solenoid) doesn't turn the starter then the starter has a fault.

Usually one tail light is on one fuse, and the other one and the reg plate bulb are on another. Thus if you blow a fuse you still have one tail light. My money is on your solution lying elsewhere, but obviously check the fuses first 🙂

About 40mpg from the 2017 (or maybe it's an 18?) a guy at work has, and honest john real mpg seems to approx agree.

Have a read of this thread about cvt boxes...

And the new trend of touch screens to control simple things like your heater should be banned.

Not the perfect solution per-se, more of a work-a-round... but once stationary... select a forward gear, like 5th, then without letting the clutch out - select reverse. It should now go in silently because the gearbox has been stopped using a syncromesh gear.

I'm pretty sure the latest Mazdas have it too, called adaptive lighting. Their older system (pre 2017 or so) used to turn when you cornered, but the latest system turns on/off certain leds depending on what's ahead.

Put some talcum around where you think the water gets in. It'll show water run marks.

I'm pretty sure you aren't allowed to fit bull bars after a certain date in the UK, all to do with pedestrian safety.

Insurance companies used to let you buy the car back since it saves them loads of hassle/money collecting, delivering, selling/disposal etc. It's well worth an ask. The current write-off categories seem to be N (non structural) and S (structural), so in theory yours should be N, but it's probably down to the individual assessor. I don't think it'll make any difference to your car tho since it's value is quite low anyway. It'll probably need a new MOT, but that bash won't affect an MOT unless there's jaggy edges I can't see in the pics. From a value point of view I'd try to get it for nothing, and I certainly wouldn't pay more than a couple of hundred quid for it. It'd cost a few hundred to get the repair done to a decent standard then the car is only worth a couple/few hundred as an ex write-off.

On any I've played about with, the permanent live allows the system to remember the preset radio stations etc, and the switched live turns it on.

In case anyone is remotely interested, the battery number refers to its dimensions. 2016 is 20mm diameter and 1.6mm thick. 2025 is 20mm diameter and 2.5mm thick etc

Accepted, agreed, and apologies offered 🙂

Toyota have fitted CVT (Constant Velocity Transmission) automatic gearboxes in their petrol/diesel cars for a while now. Driving one 'heavy footed' or uphill makes the engine rev high, giving the impression of a clutch slipping, since the revs increase faster than the car speed does. As I understand it, the hybrids are a bit different but the high revving thing is the same. I owned a CVT Avensis for about 2.5 years and raved about how good the auto box was... until my daily commute changed to include joining a motorway at the bottom of a steep hill. Then it really annoyed me when it revved to 4k or more just to increase speed at a moderate rate to 60 or 70mph. If the high revs annoyed you during your Auris test drive then be assured it will really annoy you if you own one. There are other types of automatic gearboxes which don't work the same way, and therefore don't do the high rev thing (or not nearly as badly). Lots of manufacturers fit twin clutch boxes for example, and Mazda do really nice auto boxes. We're currently on our 4th Mazda for this reason (if Toyota didn't use CVTs I'd probably still own one).

Check whether it's still lumpy with the engine off. If so, it could be a seized track rod end or similar.