alan333

Accepted, agreed, and apologies offered 🙂

Toyota have fitted CVT (Constant Velocity Transmission) automatic gearboxes in their petrol/diesel cars for a while now. Driving one 'heavy footed' or uphill makes the engine rev high, giving the impression of a clutch slipping, since the revs increase faster than the car speed does. As I understand it, the hybrids are a bit different but the high revving thing is the same. I owned a CVT Avensis for about 2.5 years and raved about how good the auto box was... until my daily commute changed to include joining a motorway at the bottom of a steep hill. Then it really annoyed me when it revved to 4k or more just to increase speed at a moderate rate to 60 or 70mph. If the high revs annoyed you during your Auris test drive then be assured it will really annoy you if you own one. There are other types of automatic gearboxes which don't work the same way, and therefore don't do the high rev thing (or not nearly as badly). Lots of manufacturers fit twin clutch boxes for example, and Mazda do really nice auto boxes. We're currently on our 4th Mazda for this reason (if Toyota didn't use CVTs I'd probably still own one).

Check whether it's still lumpy with the engine off. If so, it could be a seized track rod end or similar.

Check service history (if you have any) for what has been done and when. Oil and filter should be changed every year but other things are less often. For example spark plugs might be every 4 or 5 years, and antifreeze every 10 years. I wouldn't necessarily go changing things which are perfectly serviceable. One thing missing from your service list - check/replace drive belt(s).

Does the Aygo have boot vents behind the bumper? The seals are prone to failing on them on some other models.

I once had this on a Merc Sprinter van. Mine was a faulty relay.

You could get an adapter like this... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-RMS2-Sockets-Adaptor-Analyser/dp/B000PTDERW/ref=asc_df_B000PTDERW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310764720204&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11781512813456309150&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046956&hvtargid=pla-468834877191&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 Or like this if your dash cam can be charged via usb... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Charger-PowerIQ-Technology-Motorola-black/dp/B00VH84L5E/ref=asc_df_B00VH84L5E/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=311081482938&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11781512813456309150&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046956&hvtargid=pla-366540046736&psc=1

The salesman at my local dealer said it's the batteries which are the problem. Personally I think it's 🐂💩 but that's what he said.

Try a read here

Great result mate:)

I can't answer your question, but your old radiator could have a new core fitted by a radiator specialist.

I’d say they owe you a refund.

A workmate had a problem with a Corsa not starting a few years ago. It turned out to be a blown brake light bulb.

No, measuring from the centre point of the wheel to the outer edge, the rim has ½ inch less and the tyre 11.25mm more. That ½ inch of rubber instead of steel still makes a difference tho. If you were to measure the diameter of the complete wheel/rim set up it would be: On a 225/40/18 setup - tyre sidewall height 90, plus wheel diameter 18", plus tyre sidewall height at the other side 90. Total 25.1 inches. 804 revs/mile. On a 225/45/17 setup - tyre sidewall height 101.25, plus wheel diameter 17", plus tyre sidewall height at the other side 101.25. Total 25 inches. 808 revs/mile.

Am I missing something obvious here? Surely if the keyfob is sleeping then it won't work when you go to the car, and you'll need to get it out your pocket and press a button to wake it up - thus defeating the purpose. Also, I'm pretty sure the keyfob on our formerly owned keyless entry Auris went to sleep after a couple of days or something.