alan333

Try selecting a forward gear first, ie go from neutral to 4th to reverse.

I had this on a Citroen once. I used an angle grinder to cut a slot across the 'hat', and hammered a chisel in the slot.

IMHO it comes down to: If you want max economy then buy the lesser powered version, drive it in eco mode and put up with it feeling a bit flat. If you want more power drive the lesser version in normal or power mode, or buy the more powerful version and drive it in eco mode, and either way, be prepared to lose some mpg.

Fluid level?

But if there's any problems with the parts it's on you, where it's on the garage if they get the parts.

Rule out crap tryes first.

Verify that fluid is getting to the caliper when the brake is pressed - I once had to bleed a car (maybe a Peugeot 505, can't remember) with the engine running.

Perhaps techstream would let you change some stuff?

This all sounds ridiculous, surely the car is faulty, isn't fit for purpose, and is being returned - nothing to do with any warranty, or which parts are faulty - that's up to the dealer. Perhaps the dealer is now trying to get a new clutch fitted via (your?) warranty? It looks like you need to speak to trading standards or the citizens advice, or perhaps even a lawyer.

It's been a while since I owned my T25's but IIRC there's a towing point fitted under the front bumper. Is the tow hook just for the rear?

Ok so I'm biased against the car (or the auto box, really), but allow me to sum up what's happened so far: You sourced and bought a good tidy automatic car, on behalf of a friend, at a decent price, not horrendously far from away you. It turns out the auto box isn't the ideal type you/they were looking for, and the car has confirmed serious clutch/gear change problems. You suspect the dealer knew the transmission was faulty since they hand-wrote that it specifically wasn't covered by their warranty. You can return the car to the dealer for repair, but you need to deliver the car to them at your hassle/cost, and they'll pick the return hassle/costs. You're doubtful that the repair would be done properly. You can return the car for refund, but that'll be a bit of a hassle, since you may need to involve Trading Standards, and you'd have the delivery hassle/costs. Your friend will be out of pocket a little by the costs of changing insurance and cancelling road tax etc. You'll also be back to square one sourcing another. I don't in any way mean to come across as condescending, but I think you're being blinkered by the fact you've already bought the car, and don't want the hassle/expense of taking it back and sourcing another. There are enough alarm bells ringing up there in bold. If it were me (and taking aside I hate that gearbox), I'd be concerned that it might not be repaired properly, that my friend might have further repair costs, and that they end up with a lemon of a car which isn't nice to drive and which will be virtually unsaleable in the future - and it'd be all my fault. I'd have it returned as quickly as possible.

Thanks for the update 🙂

I wouldn't bother with the diagnosis and reject the car now. It'll stay in whatever gear you select when using manual mode. I'd assume it'll over-rule you at some excessive point, like for example trying to pull off in 4th or something (but I never tried it).

The Prius is the most accident prone car. And every mass murderer has admitted to drinking water. Is the water to blame? Bad stuff that 😉

I'll elaborate on my earlier carte blanche "avoid like the plague" statement. We previously owned a Citroen C4 1.6 hdi with their version of the MMT box, Citroen call it an EGS (electronic gear shift). It ran well, and changed gears reasonably appropriately, although it could get caught out sometimes, often when it wasn't sure whether to choose 1st or 2nd at slow speeds. You got to learn it’s idiosyncrasies and used the paddle shifters accordingly (and occasionally). However the car was getting a bit baggy so we decided to change. We chose a 3 years old, low mileage 1.6 valvematic Auris MMT, expecting it to be similar. The general gear change pattern is similar, but where the Toyota fails drastically is by its lack of torque. The punchy diesel C4 had enough torque to 'pull through' when it changed up gears a little early, but the Auris was completely flat on its feet, and would actually change back down after a short while, then up again, then back down, repeatedly. Sure you can over-rule it with the paddles but I reckon if I wanted to do that then I'd buy a manual in the first place. It's especially woeful on any hills, and worse again in town at slow speeds. It'll actually block change from 2nd to 4th on a hill which needs you to hold 2nd. Or it'll go from 3rd to 5th, then pause while it decides it's actually 4th you need, and then casually takes its time choosing 4th, by which time the car has slowed enough for it to actually need 3rd. It also doesn't have a hill hold, or enough creep to hold against the slightest incline - you need to use the handbrake. Seriously, my advice is to hand it back as soon as you can - it'll save you selling it at a loss in a few months when you realise just how bad it is. On reading that back it reads like we drive like boy racers and expected such performance from the car. It's quite the opposite tho, we're both happy to dawdle along with the traffic.