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alan333

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alan333 last won the day on October 30 2019

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About alan333

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    Alan333

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Alan
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Formerly Avensis TR 1.8 Valvematic Auto
  • Toyota Year
    2012
  • Location
    Stirlingshire

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  1. If it's any help, on the last Toyota I owned (12 plate Avensis) you could reduce the volume of the door open warning sound, but couldn't disable it (using a copy of techstream). edit... HERE'S a thread with screenshots of techstream's options
  2. Cleaned up and lubricated sliders, and fitted new discs and pads to the rear, and new pads to the front. The same thing happened about a year later, a stripdown and lubrication cured it that time. Another year later the same thing again, we sold the car but I reckon it was probably the front discs getting a bit thin by then.
  3. Your problem lies elsewhere. I recently had a similar problem with a fairly new Mazda 3, the pads were wearing at an angle due to the sliders seizing up.
  4. Pump the brake pedal without the engine on, it should firm up within a few presses. Check if you can hold the pedal firm without it dropping further to the floor. Now leave the car for a while and see if the pedal is still firm and that the firmness is at the same height it was earlier. If you have air in the brake lines the pedal feel will change.
  5. Sounds pretty good for motorway speeds to me, especially for the 2.0 petrol engine.
  6. We bought a car from a main dealer in mid July, and completed the relevant paperwork. The V5 arrived today, what's that been - about 10 weeks? Typical government body, they answer to no-one and don't do customer service.
  7. With the engine on, press the rear window demister button and see if the unbroken mirror on the other side gets warm after a minute or two.
  8. I can't really hear anything but if it's a rattle then I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the air cleaner box vibrates and sounds terrible. If it's a high pitched whistle then it's probably drawing air somewhere.
  9. I think I'm the wrong way round then. I thought the older engines had chains (pre 2006 ish?), and when they updated the engine and mated it to the new 6 speed box they went to belt driven. I learn something new every day 🙂
  10. I think the 5 speed version is a chain, the 6 speed in a belt (but I’m not certain)
  11. I don't see any reason they could affect the warranty. The warranty is for replacing things which wear out/break/stop working prematurely.
  12. Toyota's 1.8 vvti engine could develop the oil usage problem until mid 2005, then was reportedly cured. The newer 1.8 valvematic engine has no such problems.
  13. Yeah, cut through the crap... the car should have air con, it had air con from the factory, it was advertised as having air con, blah blah. Either get the dealer to re-instate the missing parts and get the air con working, or reject the car and get a refund.
  14. I've had weird steering behaviour on two Toyotas, both a good few years ago: I bought a T25 Avensis with 2 brand new cheap front tyres fitted. The steering wheel was off centre. I adjusted the tracking, the steering wheel was now back to being centred, and the car drove fine and with no uneven tyre wear. The car also had a drone noise at speed which I blamed on the cheap tyres so I changed them for decent tyres. The steering wheel was now the same amount off centre the opposite way, ie if I hadn't previously adjusted it, it would now be perfectly straight. It never solved the drone no
  15. The auto main beam I had on a Mazda worked fine on A-roads but was rubbish on motorways, it didn't 'see' oncoming cars until much too late, the same with cars ahead of me, and it regularly dipped the beam for road signs and mile markers. At least I think it was for mile markers, there wasn't anything else around. And main beam just wasn't available in the slightest of steamed up windows. I turned it off and used manual mode. Maybe Toyota ones are better, their auto wipers certainly are (it wouldn't be difficult to better the Mazda ones tho).
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