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  1. Oh I'm glad my thoughts re: the handling brought a little joy and amusement to the world 😃 but seriously for the record I didn't say the Aygo-X handling was bad as such. I haven't driven it so I couldn't possibly comment. What I was trying to say was that in general, raising the ride height of any car has a negative impact on the handling. It's why sports cars are low slung and SUV's struggle with the moose test. Ride quality aside, if I raised the ride height of my 2012 Aygo it would make the handling worse, if I lowered the ride height it would make the handling better (up to a point anyway). So that's what I meant, and with that in mind, looking at it from from my point of view owning a 2012 Aygo. The new replacement for my car has a raised ride height, for me I see it as a negative. I'm sure that Aygo-X has perfectly adequate handling, lets be honest we're not talking about some sort of sports car here in either case. A small city car ought to be nippy and agile though, and the original was always rather an entertaining little thing without having to go fast in it (something that's lost on a lot of modern cars).
  2. Just my thoughts on this, and bear in mind I don't really "get" SUV's and crossovers in general. They increased the wheel size The bigger tyres are more expensive to replace Lower profile tyres are more vulnerable to damage from potholes, which you get a lot of in a city. Increased diameter changes the gearing, and the Aygo already had rather long gearing to begin with (maybe they accounted for this) Increased unsprung weight (bad) The increased rolling resistance from the wider tyres is bad for fuel economy 17/18" wheels seem excessive to me for what is meant to be a small cheap city car They jacked up the ride height Raises the centre of gravity and makes the handling worse (and I've never had any visibility issues with the ride height of old model) Bigger body, added weight (but not upped the power) it's actually slower than the model it replaces, which itself was already a very slow car (Would it have killed them to make the 1KRVET engine available ?) The extra weight also means it uses more fuel than it otherwise would have done. I know they've improved efficiency, it may actually be more economical than the older model, but think how much better it could have been without the extra weight. Still not a big car, but bigger than the old model so presumably not as easy to thread through small gaps and get into tight parking spaces (city driving) I haven't driven one yet, do those rear pillars make it more awkward to see out the back of it (and park) ? And purely subjective I don't like the looks. For sure there are plenty of positive things to say about it, many of which have already been mentioned.... Extra equipment, better soundproofing, improved safety features... maybe if I drive one I might be a bit keener on it. **Edit** There are downsides to small wheels of course, like on the old model. They do tend to drop into potholes rather than ride over them like a bigger wheel would.
  3. I can't remember where I read it now, it's not the A/C unit itself that's the issue, like you said that's on the Aux belt end. More to do with the way things are routed into the cabin I think. I haven't looked to be fair, just what I read ** found it** last post here https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/177838-how-to-adjust-the-clutch-cable/
  4. Been having a read about it. I have A/C on my car, which apparently makes getting at the adjustment nut a right PITA. Another possible reason it might not have got done, if indeed that is the case.
  5. I had a leaf stuck to my aerial yesterday actually after leaving it parked under a tree for a couple of days. Made quite the buzzing noise down main road. I can well imagine the noise an aerial topper would make. Good spot
  6. Wouldn't surprise me, I thought the independent I took it too was ok as they are supposedly used to have a franchise for Toyota. They tried to tell me I needed to replace my (iridium) spark plugs because they were flashing over. I asked them to show me.... annnd no, quite clearly just a bit of corona discharge. So either trying it on or genuinely didn't know. Either way, not good.
  7. Thanks, I'll see about getting the cable checked/adjusted then before it cooks the clutch. Don't remember having to have it adjusted before, unless they just did it as part of the service. In which case it should have been checked 3 times already since the new clutch was put in. Rears would make sense as it's not pulling to one side Problem is finding a good independent.
  8. No I don't get any unusual noises when stationary at idle. I agree the noise started first, and now the slippy clutch does suggest it's related and getting worse. Clutch was done at an independent (main dealer wanted over £800). I think it was an Luk clutch, but I'm not sure. Yes I did wonder if they put the right one in, mine would have had the upgraded part from new. It is possible they put the 180mm one in by mistake, and 30k life sounds about right for that. Although I'd have thought it would be hard now to order and receive the wrong one. I remember at the time (might have even posted it on here) after the new clutch was put in I did notice vibration through the steering wheel on the motorway. Didn't notice it before, and never got to the bottom of it. I can't say I really notice it these days though, so it's either resolved itself or I've got used to it. Maybe related to the current issue.
  9. I bought my 2012 Aygo about 7yrs ago from a main dealer, 1 owner, 20k on the clock, I've always had it serviced on the dot at a main dealer. I made it to 86k before needing to replace the clutch, and even then only because the pedal had got heavy and the garage suspected pressure plate failure. So I'm a bit miffed I'm now at 116k and the new clutch is slipping, pulling away in 1st, changing 1st to 2nd, and changing 2nd to 3rd it slips. Over 60k maybe even 86k on the original clutch, but only 30k on the new one, what gives ? Additional to that, it's started making a humming/grinding sound. Only noticeable above 50mph, sometimes the road noise drowns it out so it's not THAT loud. Coasting in neutral makes no difference so it's not related to engine speed. It doesn't pull to one side, but it does feel like something is holding it back, almost like the handbrake is dragging slightly. I took it to the main dealer, who reckon they can't find anything wrong with it. They reckon they took it out for a drive, had it up on the ramps, checked all the wheel bearings. I even spoke to the mechanic who catagorically said nothing wrong with the wheel bearings. Charged me £60 for investigation to tell me nothing wrong, they said to keep driving it until it gets worse and then they might be able to find the problem then. Ha! yeah I'll wait until something seizes up/falls off on the motorway and have what's left of it recovered to you. I don't really want to spend another £60 for nothing so I'm just wondering if anybody on here has any thoughts what might be the problem. Maybe the there really is no problem with the wheel bearings, maybe a transmission problem, worn bearing in the gearbox, knackered diff.... could be tyre noise although I'm on the 2nd set of these Continental's and the last lot never made a noise as they wore down. I may get the tracking checked today, although last time I got it checked at the local... fast fit place, they tested it as a Wigo and I don't think that's the same car. They told me they couldn't adjust it into spec and something must be bent in the suspension. Oh dear i thought, took it to the main dealer to investigate. They did the tracking just fine. I had a copy of the test results, the specs from the fast fit place, totally different to the actual Toyota specs.
  10. Ok so now the wheel balancing is resolved I've discovered a bit more about this vibration which I still have. While stationary I tried different engine revs. At around 1,200rpm the vibration is quite low frequency and sends a shudder through the whole car. The steering wheel visibly moves. At 2,000rpm the vibration is higher frequency, like holding a pair of hair clippers or a power tool. It makes my fingers go tingly after a bit. 3,000rpm higher frequency still and less noticable. And so on. More convinced now it's a clutch problem. I know these cars are 3 cylinder and a bit off balance anyway, but shouldn't be this bad.
  11. Yep, my fan cuts in and out all the time with the a/c on. I can also confirm the car slows down when the compressor kicks in 😄 and the headlights dim too.
  12. This was an interesting post, could be the problem http://www.c1oc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10244&start=20
  13. And yes I did think of putting the spare on. I might yet do that and then at least that wheel is eliminated. Although it's been kn for a while with no issues
  14. The garage I went back too re checked the wheel balancing. Front wheels were miles out, so much for the first tyre shop. Much better improvement now. Still vibrates though. You know how your hands feel after using a power tool. It feels a bit like that after driving it any distance. So I think wheel balancing was part of it, but there's something else too. I can't see the garage taking it all apart again either. Could be something transmitting engine vibration. Some more investigation needed
  15. Well, the vibration is still there, although it has changed. I no longer get the high frequency vibration through the accelerator pedal. I do still get steering wheel vibration though. Tyre shop have balanced all wheels, the slightly buckled one is on the rear where it was before (and not causing a problem) I did go back to them and say, still got the same problem. They just said all wheels were balanced, it must be the buckled one at fault. It can't be though because it's been like it for ages now, on the rear and no problem. Having it on the front undoubtedly contributed to the vibration, but it's not the sole cause of it. So it's going back to the garage that did the clutch now.
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