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Cyker last won the day on February 15

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About Cyker

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    Yaris Mk2 1.33VVTi TR '09
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  1. Yaris Hybrid second hand prices

    Phew, good thing I jumped ship early then! Hmmm... maybe I can pick up another Mk1 D4D super cheap as my weekend car Or... I wonder how hard it would be to retrofit a D4D into an imported jappy AWD Mk1 Yaris...
  2. well, that was a mistake

    Easy way to tell is what does it look like? Have a look here...
  3. 2010 1.33 Yaris gearbox question

    I find the 6-speed shifter quite nice; It has a noce short throw and a more positive engagement feel than the 5-speed in my old Mk1 D4D. However, I have been finding it won't go into 1st sometimes, like there's an obstruction, no matter how hard I try and force it in. Happens most often when trying to move off again after a stop-start event. I had that very very rarely with my old Mk1 and the fix was to put it into neutral, release the clutch, and try again, but this doesn't work for me with the Mk2 6-speed. However, I've found if it happens, I can go into 3rd and then 1st (Don't even need to release the clutch between this!) then it always lets me get into 1st. When was the last time the gear oil was changed? I seem to recall the Mk2 Yaris gearbox is very sensitive to oil. There was at least one car that would be hard to shift using a multi-grade gear oil but was fine with a single-grade gear oil...
  4. Dash Cam

    Ha, yeah, when I first got the piggy back I was like, why is there only one wire? Shouldn't there be two?!?! Then remembered the chassis is the neutral! One thing that made life easier when connecting it to the lighter socket plug is I could use the neutral for that instead of having to find a chassis point to connect it to. I would have had to solder an extension wire on otherwise as the leads were stupidly short! It still freaks me out a little that the car body is part of a live circuit!!
  5. Start-Stop Batteries - AGM? EFB? WTF?

    Well as Frosty says it depends on a lot of parameters - The Start-Stop system seems to be a very Goldlocks system, as we'd say. If the engine is too hot or too cold it won't work, it has to be just right! If the oil is too hot or too cold it won't work, it has to be just right! The only reason normal starter battery shouldn't be used is they use very thin lead plates to give maximum surface area, and so a lot of cranking amps. Unfortunately, this means the battery has to be kept as fully charged as possible. As soon as the charge drops the lead plates start dissolving - This is why a normal lead acid battery drained past 50% loses a lot of capacity, and one drained to 0% is often virtually dead. TBH, the fact that we're still using lead-acid is really stupid on modern cars - I don't understand why nobody is using lithium ion with a bank of super-capacitors by now! The lithium battery could easily hold 3 times the charge (Or take up a third of the space!) and be a lot lighter - On its own it would explode if you tried to crank a car engine, but if you add a capacitor bank that the lithium battery keeps charged when the car is off, it could start any engine a lot easier than any lead acid!
  6. Timing Chain Rattle Mk1 Yaris

    Heh, yeah, the feel of the doors of the Mk1 do not inspire confidence for side collisions! It used to be a no-brainer to get a Toyota oil filter and sump plug gasket - They'd give you 5L of 5w30 oil for free as part of a 'service kit'! They seem to have stopped doing it at some point tho' - Last time I bought them all I had to pay for the oil!
  7. Start-Stop Batteries - AGM? EFB? WTF?

    Thanks for the replies guys - After getting over my incredulation at such a stupid idea (Coded batteries!?) and doing yet more research, it turns out this is actually a real thing! Apparently with mostly German cars that use EFB/AGM batteries, they DO need to be coded in when they are replaced otherwise the car runs in a more conservative mode (Whatever the heck that means!). Apparently there is a QR code on new batteries that needs to be scanned or manually entered in to the ECU to tell the car things like charging profile and such and to reset the infotainment and start-stop etc. systems to work in a 'full' mode. (This is kinda dumb since the charging electronics should be able to figure this out itself - We've had that kind of tech in our server UPS's for decades!!) HOWEVER, on the plus side, it seems this is not applicable to Toyota cars; I assume the ECU senses battery state and acts accordingly like it should. Thank smeg for that. So, theoretically at least, I should just be able to stick in an AGM battery instead of the stock EFB and it should Just Work. That all said, I will hold fire for now - My friend has pointed out that I would have to be a special kind of idiot to replace an otherwise working battery just to make the start-stop work more, since at best I'd save maybe £20 of fuel vs. paying £100+ for the battery! This is actually a good point... (When the time comes tho', I will let you all know if it dies within a week or blows the car up or something ) re. warranty, the battery *works*, so I doubt I'd get anywhere just whinging to the dealer that the start-stop doesn't work all the time. From posts I've read here in the past, even Mr T considers this irregular behaviour 'normal', and 'subject to conditions' (Presumably all the conditions Frosty keeps mentioning! ). re. the CTEK charger, AGM batteries operate basically the same as normal flooded cell batteries - There is a slight difference in preferred charging voltage but it's like 0.3v difference IIRC; The only real difference is they don't like being held at constant trickle/float voltages to keep them topped up - It makes them vent over time and tends to shorten their lives prematurely. They much prefer cyclic charging as it gives the hydrogen/oxygen a chance to recombine so they don't have to vent. Flooded batteries are always using up a little electrolyte when they are charging - I assume with EFB's they just stick in more electrolyte so they last longer!
  8. Hybrid- Big battery and Little battery

    You don't actually need much power to get a HSD running - It's possible to string together 12v worth of AA batteries and that'll give the ECU enough power to flip the traction battery relay which then does all the heavy work, including recharging the 12v battery! It's best to leave the car 'running' when doing anything in it rather than using the ACC mode - The ICE won't fire up unless the traction battery is low, and the traction battery will keep the 12v battery topped up and power everything. In any other mode the weedy little 12v battery has to do all the work and it really isn't up to it!
  9. So New Yaris has one of these new-fangled start-stop engines that turn off when you are stopped. At least it is supposed to; So far it's very rarely done it! I suspect the battery hasn't been changed in a while, and I'm aware that petrol engines tend to work their batteries harder so they don't last as long as on diesels so I've been researching replacing it. What a mine field! Now, apparently it comes with an EFB battery, but I was going to 'upgrade' it to an AGM battery on account of them just being 'better' and thus hopefully working better with the start-stop system. However, the salesperson insisted that I couldn't use an AGM battery and could only use an EFB, but was reluctant to explain why. Eventually he came up with this shocker that EFB and AGM batteries need to be coded to the car when installed and a car with an EFB can't be coded to take an AGM battery - Is this really a thing or was he just BS'ing me?! I've never heard of a car battery needing to be coded to the car when installed - I thought it was just unscrew the terminals and bracket, remove old battery, put in new one, screw everything back on, done! But apparently on modern cars you need to somehow enter a battery code to reset... *something*. Is this really a thing?! Can I actually not change my battery without going to a garage or buying some sort of battery code ECU entery thing?!
  10. Timing Chain Rattle Mk1 Yaris

    Ah, yes, I too love the digital display! Actually if she has a petrol Mk1, changing to a Mk2 could be good potential upgrade path - The 2009-and-older ones keep the digital dash, and the inside is nicer than the Mk1. It also has a higher quality feel - The doors have a much more satisfying weight and closing-clunk than the paper-light Mk1 doors (Esp. the rear doors!)! The later 1.33VVTi engine is also more powerful and cheaper to tax than the earlier 1.3VVTi's Tyres are more expensive tho' on those 15" rims! (If anyone has any 14" steel rims they don't want I'll be interested!! ;))
  11. The 2019 Toyota Supra

    Raistlin! You're still alive!!! Where have you been??? I keep imagining you and Bizzara are locked in some Duel of the Fates-esque lightsabre battle somewhere! I really want them to put a sports-tuned HSD paired with a turbocharged engine in that Supra... Maybe something like what they had proposed for the Yaris Hybrid R...?
  12. Timing Chain Rattle Mk1 Yaris

    Yeah, can't say I blame your missus - My Mk1 was easily the best car I've ever owned, ever! Had to change to a Mk2 because of this U-turn on diesels (KHAAAAAAAAN! ) and it's okay but... I just don't like it as much... Where the Mk1 was *perfect*, the Mk2 has lots of little annoyances, like the cup holders are in the wrong place (They're all by my right hand instead of the left - I use my right hand for steering!), the storage bins are smaller, I can't see the dash clearly with the sun behind me because the tunnel isn't as deep as it was on the Mk1, the visibility is somehow worse than in the Mk1 (Esp. A-pillars and rear!) etc. I'm also missing having a sunroof because I can't cure wind buffeting from the side windows by opening it like I used to! It's all little whingey trivial stuff, but it just makes me miss my Mk1!
  13. Glow plug - 3 of 4

    I think you'll be fine on 3 - All the glowplugs in my brother's Mk1 Yaris 1.4 D4D have been dead for several months now and the car still starts the same! He wanted to get them replaced but they have welded themselves to the engine and everybody he's spoken to is too scared to try to remove them in case they snap off and scared him with dire warnings of expensive engine work. (On that theme, if anyone knows how to bypass the glowplugs so that the Check Engine light doesn't keep coming on please let me know!!)
  14. Gen 4 Fuse Location

    I found this super helpful when trying to explain what fuse I needed!