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Cyker

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Everything posted by Cyker

  1. The problem is all systems can be bypassed if there is physical access to them; Like with the fuel-pump isolation, a canny thief can just connect a jumper cable from the fuel pump to the battery directly to power it and the car would work again!
  2. The maximum current they'll put in is 32A, assuming your incoming cable has capacity for that, which is why the most you can get from single-phase is 7kW. At the normal 13 amps you'd only get about 3kW. I do wonder if it'd be allowed to put in 2x32A and combine them like we used to do with USB back in the day?
  3. Yeah the Aygo probably feels painfully gutless coming from the hybrid Corolla, but it's a really fun car to drive along country roads You just have to get used to wringing its neck as all the power is at the top end, but it seems very willing to do it! One thing about the new Aygos that I find weird is somehow the engine idle is a lot smoother than my Mk4's - I do find it mildly soothing, being a diesel head, but it's very bizarre how much more rattly my Mk4's M15A-FXE is compared to the 1KR-??? in the new Aygos when idling stationary!!
  4. Are those cable-ties?! That is a truly amazing bit of ricing
  5. So was there a trick to it or was it really just "Yank it harder! HARDER!!"
  6. Flippin' heck that's cheap!! I've never paid less than £600 for a clutch job on my old Mk1 diesel!! And that was a good deal! (Mr T wanted over £1200!! ) Where was this done??
  7. That button is *specifically* to clear a misty windscreen quickly - It is like a shortcut/preset/macro that sets the vents to blow through the windscreen vent only, turn the AC on and set blower speed and heat to maximum. It's only designed to be used to clear the mist quickly, then be turned off - It's not designed to be left on all the time! (You can, but it'll be noisy AF!) Once it's clear, you can turn it off and then set up your HVAC controls to what you want it to be. If you find it starts misting up again (Which it will if e.g. recirc is on with no AC), it's best to manually set the vent to windscreen or feet and windscreen and change from recirc to fresh air. I find that's usually enough, even without AC on. Bumping the heater up a bit will also help keep it clear.
  8. Yeah, it's one of the few things the hybrids do worse than petrol cars - Because the engine is tiny and not running all the time, it can't store heat very well, and in winter if you have the heating on, it sucks all the heat out of the engine to warm the cabin, which forces the ECU to fire the engine up to generate more heat which wastes more fuel. This is just one of the downsides of very efficient cars, as they don't have the 'free' waste heat that inefficient cars have. Even my old Mk1 diesel had this issue - If I wasn't hooning it, I ould get half-way to work before the cold-engine light went out in winter! It kinda sucks as you have to choose between heating and fuel efficiency. With the HVAC at 20C, it will run the engine a lot more in winter than with it off during urban driving (On fast A-road and motorway the difference is negligible tho'!). As my Mk4 is normally in the mid-70's/low-80's for mpg I couldn't stomach it dropping into the 60s, so turned off the heating and wore a thicker coat! It's a real shame they didn't plumb the AC system to be reversible like they have in some of their other cars, so it could act as a heat pump in winter...
  9. That reminds me of this guy who had an import JDM car; I can't remember if it was a subaru or some sort of skyline gtr, but apparently they were really easy to steal so a lot of owners had aftermarket PIN code systems installed into it, which this one came with. Apparently it was the bane of his life as it would often take multiple attempts of entering the code to get it to start I think he eventually managed to find someone who could remove the whole system, but because of the way it had been spliced in, removing it was apparently very difficult and required a few return visits due to weird glitches stemming from it being removed but not all the wiring being fixed to how it should have been...! Traditionally, people fit isolators to cut power to the fuel pump, not the whole 12v system. I'm not sure how you would do it with a hybrid since that doesn't need a running fuel pump to switch on; Maybe isolate power to the fuel pump and contactors? But that might throw all sorts of scary Hybrid System Malfunction! codes if you forgot to turn off the isolator and tried to start it...!
  10. One of the issues with it is that it's massive - Definitely a more USA-oriented size! For some reason people will happily gigantic SUVs but tend to shy away from big hatchbacks and saloons. My other theory is visibility - Saloons, for reasons I've never understood, don't have rear windscreen wipers, and being quite a rainy country that could make reversing a bit tricky on an inclement day!
  11. Do you know when the diesel fuel filter was last changed? That might be worth checking, but if there's actually a leak somewhere that would deffo be the thing to address first!!
  12. If you mean the headlights staying on for a bit after you turn the car off, IIRC on my Mk4 they have to be enabled/disabled by the dealer (But are enabled by default), and it only does it when it's dark enough that the auto dipped lights would also kick in if I was driving. Yours may be similar...?
  13. Ahhh thanks for that - I thought it was a bit weird!! That kinda sucks tho' as once they get in there's not a lot you can do; Even if you blank off the port they only need to access the data wires, and if they're smart enough to know to splice into the headlight CAN wires, they can probably get at the OBD data wires too
  14. In fact, I would deliberately turn the AC on when demisting the windscreen on my old manual-AC cars!! It just makes sense, as that button's function is to quickly clear the windscreen if interior mist, so it will direct hot dry air at the windscreen when pressed.
  15. The problem with CAN is you can't encrypt it - It's a real-time low-latency protocol and encryption would add too much overhead. CAN is so fast it can be used to trigger the airbags at just the right nanosecond because communication is as near-instantaneous as you can get. Encryption/decryption will by necessity add several ms (milliseconds!) of processing latency and/or require much more powerful (and complex and expensive!) hardware. We take it for granted now because we effectively have supercomputers in our pockets, but encryption requires many times more processing power than doing things plain. But this is a well known issue; As I said from another thread where I was comparing Tesla and Toyota's strengths, Toyota is a traditional car company and are not so good on the software side, and it shows with naive design like this; What you'd normally do is have at least two totally separate CAN networks, sometimes more, but at least a 'secure' one and an 'insecure' one; The secure one would be important things like the main ECU and connection to the ignition circuitry, key authentication etc., and be kept inside the car and as close together as possible. The insecure would be everything else, esp. ancillary devices that are mounted outside the cabin, and would be totally separate from the secure one; This would prevent people tapping into easy to access sections of CAN bus and accessing the power and ignition commands. At best they would be able to turn the lights off and on. That said, I thought Toyota had a system like this, so maybe there's been some sort of separation failure in their code or design some how allowing commands from the insecure CAN to cross over to the secure one?? Because it should not be possible to access the ignition CAN from the headlights...
  16. The car is generally very reliable - When it starts getting old the biggest enemy is rust! My bro's poor Mk1 D4D finally failed its MOT due to rust on the rear subframe and front suspension arms.
  17. I've only had one car without a rev limiter and didn't like not knowing where the redline was! With the Aygo Mk1 at least (Not sure about the Mk2) it's a common and fairly cheap add-on that quite a few owners have added. As for the original question, this thread may be of some use?
  18. It's taken a bit of re-learning as I would always go handbrake+neutral in my manual cars so I wasn't lazing the person behind me with my brakelights, and also because moving off from the handbrake rather than the foot brake is much faster in a manual car In the hybrid it's just not practical, as the EPB is too small and surrounded by other buttons and holes to find by feel compared to a big handbrake, and the car will complain if you leave it in N for too long as it can't charge the traction battery in N mode.
  19. Abridge Shell ran out of fuel at 152.9, went back the next day and it had re-opened but at 154.9 To be fair I really think they should put their prices up as that poor village has gotten really congested thanks to cheap smegheads like me hunting down cheap prices and causing it to queue out on to the road! Makes me glad I can only fit in 26-28L so I get out PDQ! Some fun driving roads around there too There are also signs to the Secret Nuclear Bunker! * Pretty Darn Quick!
  20. Yeah that's closer to the sort of wear I get - Apparently London is just bad for tyres!!
  21. They live in a weird grey area - There's a whole underground cottage industry for weird 'hacking' gadgets like this. They range from 'aim bots' to help people cheat at video games to devices designed to tap into wifi networks or bypass security door maglocks. But they're not technically illegal, for the same sorts of reasons lock picks aren't illegal. I do wonder where they get these things tho - Would be helpful for all these posts here where people have lost their only key!!
  22. Yes, but fortunately it's the one your index finger would naturally be on, and the rest are clustered around it so you can find them by feel alone without having to look. I wish the steering wheel controls had similar ergonomics, as I always have to glance at them to make sure I'm pressing e.g. "cruise control" and not "speed limiter", or "cancel cruise" and not "skip track" ! Still, I'm just glad they aren't using touch controls like the ID3. They are literally the worst - You can't tell if you're touching them or not, and they are so easy to accidentally trigger! At least with normal controls you have to explicitly press on them, but with touch controls, either just brushing them accidentally is enough to trigger them, or you have to jab them repeatedly to make them sense your touch! Ugh, just worse in every way! I know what you mean; Is also the first automatic I've owned and I kept jarring my foot hitting the dead pedal when going for a non-existent clutch! I'm just glad that my dad had a button start car before me, so I already knew how they work - I remember when we first bought his car, we couldn't figure out how to start it until the salesman told us we had to hold the brake down when pressing the button!! The salesman for my Mk4 didn't even give me a tour of the car at the handover before he wandered off to another customer, so it's a good thing I'd already played with one at the launch event! It's certainly a huge leap in complexity compared to my previous Yarisusiesiesus! If you mean does the EPB auto-release when you press the accelerator, then yes it does. It does sometimes 'catch' slightly, as the EPB is a bit slow to disengage if you're trying to move off quickly, so I tend to use the brake hold as the hydraulic brakes are much faster. One annoying idiosyncrasy is, if you're in D and engage the EPB, the car will strain against the brakes on creep unless you also hold down the foot brake. I don't know why they programmed it to do this, as it's totally pointless - It really should switch off the creep when the EPB is on. The car doesn't try to creep against the foot brake so why does it creep against the handbrake?? (The Toyota answer is "because that's how automatics are" - Yes, normal ICE automatics that have engines that can't stop running, but this is not a limitation that hybrids have!! I hate it when they do things like this just because that's how it's always done, without applying any logic or reason!)
  23. Yeah, it's a bit of a gimmick as most experienced drivers can estimate their remaining range once they get to know their car and how far it can go on one tank, and how the fuel gauge works. (So in my Mk2, I knew once the tank showed 1/4 used, I'd only have half the range left, a bit over 200 miles Man that has to be the least accurate fuel gauge I've ever seen )
  24. Sooo are you tempted...? More space for doggo and doggo related things...?
  25. Fitment-wise it'd probably be fairly easy as Toyota are usually really good about consistency of things like mountings as long as the engine was designed for the car (Not like the 1.33 1NR-FE in the Mk2 ) I have a suspicion the 1.8 is actually smaller than the 1.2T when you take in to account everything and not just the block - The 1.2T takes up a surprisingly large amount of space because of the turbo, extra pipe work, intercooler, oil cooler etc. Electronics-wise, well, that's a whole different kettle of fish!!
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