paulgtt

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About paulgtt

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

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  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Celica GT-Four
  • Location
    Lincolnshire
  1. Happy Birthday paulgtt!

  2. Wouldn't bother with the turbo timer tbh but if you really want one they can be had alot cheaper than that one!! Some won't work with certain alarm/immobilizers so be aware. The turbo timer won't allow you to adjust the boost pressure either. What you'd be looking for is a boost controller, Blitz do the spec r or spec s versions, with one of these you can then adjust the boost to whatever you like. The safe limit is considered to be 1.1bar however some people run 1.2 bar with no issues, fuel cut is just over 1.2 bar on stock ecu. If your going for a cone filter than ideally you want a straight intake with cold air feed and box, if not then just go for an uprated panel filter in the standard airbox. Blitz ecu's come up for sale on ebay and also the gt4/celica owners clubs from time to time. Specific st205 ones are more expensive but can be plugged straight in. Mine is off an MR2 and requires the chargecooler pump relay to be bridged (a 2 min job) if going for an MR2 one make sure its for a rev3 onwards model (1994 +) If I were in your position I would do the following: 1) exhaust system. Ive got the blueflame which includes the front pipe. 2) air filter. Panel filter probably preffered 3) heat lag the charge cooler. 4) boost controller Should see 280-300bhp with that set up tbh
  3. Not just the Glanza, theres also the GT. Essentially the same car but the Glanza is the newer model. I had a GT a couple of years back, proper flying machine for a 1.3! My old one
  4. Give it agood service, replacing leads, plugs, dizzy etc before doing anything if they haven't been done recently. What sort of power are you aiming for?? An exhaust system, decent filter and boost set at 1.1 bar should see 280bhp - 300bhp Im running that setup but also with a Blitz access ecu and running at 311bhp. Thats still with the cat in aswell. After that you could go for a FMIC and up the boost a bit more, should see 330bhp ish Then really its a hybrid turbo, you will need larger injectors, uprated pump and a mappable ecu to run one though.
  5. The stock ecu can't be remapped. A chip will make little difference. Losing weight from the car and fitting smaller wheels with good tyres will help. TBH though if you want to go faster than probably sell it and buy the 190
  6. I would say the crush tube is fubarded, however if the wheel is a sbad as you say it is then it could well have effected the fig 8 and/or lower arm. Crush tube would be first port of call though
  7. Agreed, better to get it to around 200bhp and then spend the cash on a decent LSD, tyres etc. No point having more power if you can't get it to the ground.
  8. Cheers guys, mods are: Blueflame catback exhaust (cat still in) Straight intake with heat shield Blitz access ecu Relief valve Heat lagged charge cooler Boost was set at 1.1 bar, did actually hit 315bhp but took the 311 as the average
  9. Took my car to Monster Motorsport in Loughborough for a dyno run at the wekend, And the results were: 311bhp and 275lb/ft 243hp @ the wheels Really pleased with that as I was hoping for 290 maybe 300, so impressed Will upload the graphs when I get chance
  10. paulgtt

    Trackday St185

    Ive got KYB Excel G shocks with TRD springs and TRD top mounts on my st205. They are brilliant on road and for occassional track use but I find it a bit to soft to do any proper track work. You can get adjustable KYB' aswell, these maybe better for tracktbh. Don't forget an uprated rear arb too
  11. Ive recently had my gearbox changed, along with a new clutch and steering rack. My mechanic did it in 10 hours and thats after fitting the whole lot twice as the clutch wouldn't engage properely, oh yeah and he did it with the engine in place too Cost me just short of £600 with VAT.
  12. Just wasted 2 minutes of my life typing that out now :D :D :D
  13. Hi mate, Sounds like you need to check the error codes. With the engine off, lift the bonnet and you'll find the diagnostic box near the passenger side suspension turret. Open it up and using a bent paperclip push one end into terminal TE1 and the other end into E1, now turn the ignition on so that the dash lights illuminate, do NOT start the engine. The engine management light will start flashing, if it flashes constantly then no eror codes are stored. As an exmaple: if it flashes 5 times and then pauses and then flashes 4 times then you have code 54. If it then does another sequence then you have more than one code stored. Try it and report back with what you findings HTH
  14. You can't do the "paperclip trick" on your car is what we are trying to say!!
  15. Welcome You need to bridge terminals E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics box, however Im not sure you can do this on a gen7. Hopefully one of the 7 guys will be along shortly to give you a definate answer.