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Everything posted by paulgtt

  1. Wouldn't bother with the turbo timer tbh but if you really want one they can be had alot cheaper than that one!! Some won't work with certain alarm/immobilizers so be aware. The turbo timer won't allow you to adjust the boost pressure either. What you'd be looking for is a boost controller, Blitz do the spec r or spec s versions, with one of these you can then adjust the boost to whatever you like. The safe limit is considered to be 1.1bar however some people run 1.2 bar with no issues, fuel cut is just over 1.2 bar on stock ecu. If your going for a cone filter than ideally you want a straight intake with cold air feed and box, if not then just go for an uprated panel filter in the standard airbox. Blitz ecu's come up for sale on ebay and also the gt4/celica owners clubs from time to time. Specific st205 ones are more expensive but can be plugged straight in. Mine is off an MR2 and requires the chargecooler pump relay to be bridged (a 2 min job) if going for an MR2 one make sure its for a rev3 onwards model (1994 +) If I were in your position I would do the following: 1) exhaust system. Ive got the blueflame which includes the front pipe. 2) air filter. Panel filter probably preffered 3) heat lag the charge cooler. 4) boost controller Should see 280-300bhp with that set up tbh
  2. Not just the Glanza, theres also the GT. Essentially the same car but the Glanza is the newer model. I had a GT a couple of years back, proper flying machine for a 1.3! My old one
  3. Give it agood service, replacing leads, plugs, dizzy etc before doing anything if they haven't been done recently. What sort of power are you aiming for?? An exhaust system, decent filter and boost set at 1.1 bar should see 280bhp - 300bhp Im running that setup but also with a Blitz access ecu and running at 311bhp. Thats still with the cat in aswell. After that you could go for a FMIC and up the boost a bit more, should see 330bhp ish Then really its a hybrid turbo, you will need larger injectors, uprated pump and a mappable ecu to run one though.
  4. The stock ecu can't be remapped. A chip will make little difference. Losing weight from the car and fitting smaller wheels with good tyres will help. TBH though if you want to go faster than probably sell it and buy the 190
  5. I would say the crush tube is fubarded, however if the wheel is a sbad as you say it is then it could well have effected the fig 8 and/or lower arm. Crush tube would be first port of call though
  6. Agreed, better to get it to around 200bhp and then spend the cash on a decent LSD, tyres etc. No point having more power if you can't get it to the ground.
  7. Cheers guys, mods are: Blueflame catback exhaust (cat still in) Straight intake with heat shield Blitz access ecu Relief valve Heat lagged charge cooler Boost was set at 1.1 bar, did actually hit 315bhp but took the 311 as the average
  8. Took my car to Monster Motorsport in Loughborough for a dyno run at the wekend, And the results were: 311bhp and 275lb/ft 243hp @ the wheels Really pleased with that as I was hoping for 290 maybe 300, so impressed Will upload the graphs when I get chance
  9. paulgtt

    Trackday St185

    Ive got KYB Excel G shocks with TRD springs and TRD top mounts on my st205. They are brilliant on road and for occassional track use but I find it a bit to soft to do any proper track work. You can get adjustable KYB' aswell, these maybe better for tracktbh. Don't forget an uprated rear arb too
  10. Ive recently had my gearbox changed, along with a new clutch and steering rack. My mechanic did it in 10 hours and thats after fitting the whole lot twice as the clutch wouldn't engage properely, oh yeah and he did it with the engine in place too Cost me just short of £600 with VAT.
  11. Just wasted 2 minutes of my life typing that out now :D :D :D
  12. Hi mate, Sounds like you need to check the error codes. With the engine off, lift the bonnet and you'll find the diagnostic box near the passenger side suspension turret. Open it up and using a bent paperclip push one end into terminal TE1 and the other end into E1, now turn the ignition on so that the dash lights illuminate, do NOT start the engine. The engine management light will start flashing, if it flashes constantly then no eror codes are stored. As an exmaple: if it flashes 5 times and then pauses and then flashes 4 times then you have code 54. If it then does another sequence then you have more than one code stored. Try it and report back with what you findings HTH
  13. You can't do the "paperclip trick" on your car is what we are trying to say!!
  14. Welcome You need to bridge terminals E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics box, however Im not sure you can do this on a gen7. Hopefully one of the 7 guys will be along shortly to give you a definate answer.
  15. 1.1 bar is considered the "safe" limit, although any boost increase can reduce engine/turbo life. 1.2 bar can be run if you really wanted to. I would get rid of the FCD though as you can destroy the MAP sensor with one fitted. Fuel cut is around 17.5psi on stock ecu
  16. Most people regard 1.1 as safe, 1.2 can be run but fuel cut is just around the corner on stock ecu. I got my filter direct from Green and think it was about £46, just measured the space I had and then bought the biggest filter possible! Ebay or gt4oc, mine is actually an MR2 one, just requires the Charge cooler pump to be bridged to run constantly. ST205 specific blitz access's tend to fetch more money, if you do go for an MR2 one make sure its for a rev3 onwards (1994 +)
  17. Ive relocated the battery to the stock airbox position and run a Mr.Baryy straight inatke with a green cotton filter, jap spec performance now sell there own version of the straight intake. Ive got a Blueflame exhaust which isn't massively loud, certainly alot quieter then Blitz or HKS ones. Its reasonable priced and is cat back so replaces the very restrictive front pipe. HKS and Blitz are 2 piece systems and your then looking at an Aussie frontpipe on top. I have a Blitz acces on mine, get one for around £500 and no mapping required. However if your planning to run a bigger turbo then a Power FC would be best as the Access can only really be run with stock turbo and injectors. A boost controller at 1.1 bar, decent filter and exhaust system should see around 300bhp. Add a FMIC and a bit more boost and 320-330bhp is achievable. Any more and you'll be looking at bigger injectors, turbo and mappable ecu.
  18. paulgtt

    Brake Discs

    Take the wheel off and measure them
  19. Put me down as maybe :D Got alot on in May and might be going to Pod in April but maybe up for going again in May
  20. It isn't possible to remap the standard ecu, you'd be looking for stand alone system, something like an apexi power fc, around £700 for the ecu plus another £300 ontop for mapping it. You won't see alot of power gain either. Exhaust system, decent air filter and I think people recommend a set of high lift cams for the 190 model. after that your really looking at super or turbo charging it. seven motorsports offer alot of tuning setups for the gen7 celica as thats their specialitiy, think their in the midlands somewhere, a quick google search should bring them up ;)
  21. Mine would sometimes idle really low on the revs and missfire occasionally when at high revs. new plugs, leads and dizzy and arm sorted it, as I said the dizzy and arm can crack. TCB parts for these parts mate, use genuine Toyota leads, alot of celicas don't like these fancy aftermarket ones.
  22. Im not going to be able kick all your backsides :D Clutch just won't have seen enough miles by then plus Ive got to put new brakes on it Im up for next time though B)
  23. when did it last have plugs, leads, dizzy and rotor arm?? Distributor and arm can breakdown over time