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  1. Hi. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm assuming you're talking about the end float in the turbo shaft? I got this in 2012 with 60k on it. It was quiet then but developed what I can only describe as the "diesel knock noise". Under load or when accelerating, the knocking noise goes away, It's only under light load. Anyway. Ended up it was a faulty injector. Got Denso remanufactured replacements due to the other problems e.g. difficult cold starting, poor fuel consumption and a definitive but small vibration when I went above app 2000 revs. The injectors solved everything but the "diesel knock noise". But. Back to the whine/whistle noise this whine/whistle has appeared when accelerating and decelerating around 1500 rpm so I'm assuming something has changed. If there are any checks I can do to put my mind at rest, I would be grateful to any of the many respected RAV4 experts that are members of the forum which is not to say I doubt your comments. I would just like to be able to find a reason for the noise that's there now but wasn't before. I've just added the Archoil AR6600 to half a tank of fuel and give it a 60 mile motorway run. I suppose I'll have to wait to see if makes any improvement. Am I right in saying if the vanes were contaminated and/or sticking then there would be power loss and sluggish acceleration?
  2. Hi I have a 2006 RAV4.3 which has developed a whistle at app 1500 rpm when increasing or decreasing revs. I am told the RAV4.3 turbo does not have problems? The power is still there, the fuel consumption is good but the noise is worrying. I have checked the air intake and pipes and looking at the impeller wheel and all looks OK. The actuator linkage looks OK and moves. Can anyone tell me what and how I can check anything or is this a specialist job. Or am I just being paranoid about noise?
  3. if you didn't code them, could it run like this? noisy but with the power? I stopped to go into a shop so the engine was well warmed up. Cam out 2 minutes later and it started, ticked over for app 3 seconds then cut out. Twice it did this so the third time, when it started I gave it some throttle and it stayed on???
  4. It was a local mechanic recommended from another member of the forum. I was told they were coded as he had to get another bloke with the gear to code them. He told me they needed coded in when I was getting him to check the loss of power, low mileage and poor cold starting problem looked at.
  5. Hi Had the noisy engine, poor cold starting, low mileage and loss of power problem for months. Just got Denso refurbished injectors fitted to replace the originals (23670 09140) Denso part No 095000-7640. The replacements have the number etched on them 095000-0R020. Still have the noisy engine. Poor cold starting has gone, mileage is back up and power is back but now the cold starting is: starts then almost cuts out before picking up and is then OK. Are these injectors suitable for my RAV? Engine - 2AD-FTV Engine No - 2AD0026595 VIN JTMBA31V406010318 Or do I need to get the upgraded injectors 23670 09290
  6. Do these remanufactured injectors have to be coded after fitting or would they be a simple replacement?
  7. Hi Can anyone tell me if the injectors on a RAV4.3 2.2D-4D can be refurbished or is it buy new? These are the originals and I have app 92,000 miles on them. There is a slight misfire at high revs?
  8. OK gents. Replaced the MAF and VSV sensors. not much difference. cleared the P0400 fault and it came up within ten minutes of driving. Took the EGR valve out. It was stuck open app 1mm? Stripped and cleaned. Working ALMOST OK. At high revs on light but especially heavy load, there is still this "mild" misfire feeling. I think I'll let this Archoil AR6400-D Pro PEA Concentrate Diesel Cleaner do it's work. Still got half a tank left from Saturday. I'll fill up with the BP Ultimate and see how things go from there as it still fells like an injector is not operating at 100% or at the same efficiency as the rest?
  9. I cleaned it good and proper a few weeks ago before blanking it off. Only took the blank out on Saturday past. Surely it couldn't be clogged up that quickly? I'm assuming the MAF temp sensor part and the VSV are knackered as I reckon? Would appreciate someone to confirm based on what I described above. I thought I was going to have to shell out for new injectors so am eager to hear some good news!!!
  10. OK. today coming home from work I got three warning faults on the display. Check VSC system. Check 4WD system and check engine system. I have OBD auto doctor on my mobile so tried it. It was bringing up code P0400 "Exhaust gas recirculation system "A" flow???. It was running exceptionally bad and noisy. Got it into the garage and decided to check whatever I thought able to. Put 12v on the SCV valve and it was clicking OK. not satisfied with that, I took it out and all looked OK. Checked the coil resistance which was 2.7ohms? Open circuit to earth. Put 12v on it while it was out. It moves app 5mm although with no power on it you can push the valve in app 10mm??? Thought it was OK so put it back in. Removed the VRV or VSV and checked the coil resistance. This was 11.7ohms? Open circuit to earth. There are two ports and a filtered port. One port marked "OUT" which goes to the top of the turbo actuator and the other marked “VAC” which goes into the ??? I can blow through both of these ports with or without 12v on the coil? Is this knackered??? Then decided to check the MAF sensor. First put the meter on the flow meter connections (pins 1 and 2 looking into the socket of the sensor) it measured 3.85 K ohms. When I gently blew into the flow side the meter reading went down to 3.02Kohms so assumed it was working OK. Then checked the air temperature sensor (pins 4 and 5 looking into the socket of the sensor) it measured 18.6 Megohms. Tried putting heat on it (lighter at a distance of app 50mm) no change in the reading of 18.6 megohms. Is this knackered too??? Could someone confirm my findings? I can get an aftermarket MAF from Euro carparts for less than £50 but am having trouble finding a VSV or VRV valve. Whichever is the correct name for it on the RAV 4.3
  11. Hi. I have a 2006 2.2D-4D. I developed a similar problem about three months ago. It began to get harder to start from cold but once warmed up it was OK to start. It also lacks power when you "sink the boot" which it did not lack previously. Thirdly, it is quite noisy compared to what it used to sound like, which I would call quiet (for a diesel). If I am running in third gear at app 2000rpm and floor the accelerator pedal, it does not respond. But at higher revs it will accelerate although without the power it used to have. If I run it at high revs it feels like it has a subtle feel of a misfire but it doesn't "chug", it's basically flat? The fuel consumption is also up. app 300 miles on a tank whereas it used to be closer to 400. I thought it was the injector(s) so had a chap check them with a snap-on diagnostic meter. He was able to monitor the injectors and at idle they were showing values of app +1.6 to +2.2 (he said the values should be between -5 and +5. He got this info from his Toyota mechanic friends. Although I'd like someone on the forum to be able to tell me what the numbers mean? No4 was jumping intermittently from 1.2 to 2.6 which he said was unusual. I serviced it app 2000 miles ago (3 months ago) and it made no difference. I had the fuel filter out last weekend and it's clear, as is the fuel. have read almost all of this thread I am leaning towards the SCV valve or VRV valve? Can anyone help with location of these, any checks or tests I can do on them and how to remove & refit? I have also read that the injectors were updated from part No 23670 09140 to 23670 09290??? Although the cost of these looks to be well outside my budget. Hoping someone can answer my questions as I am already thin on top but this is now making me think very seriously about pulling what hair I have left, out!!! Forgot to add. Three of the glow plugs were gone, replaced them about three weeks ago but no difference. Added 430ml of Archoil AR6400-D Pro PEA Concentrate Diesel Cleaner on Sunday past. Definitely not running any better although only done one run of app 100miles after adding it to a tank of BP Ultimate. Then another 30 mile run the next day. HELP!!!!
  12. I'm assuming you didn't pay £3k for the DMF? Mine cost £1,150 for the whole job including the 3 parts?
  13. Hi The bottom pipe is the same as mine. The cast end (bottom LHS) goes onto the top of my EGR and the other end comes out of the top RHS of the block, which where I fitted the blank. Made no detrimental difference to the running and abolished the black smoke when you sink the boot! I removed it last week but only to see if it would make any difference to a noisy engine I now have. Although I suspect this to be down to injectors. I have a 2006 2.2d-4D engine type 2AD-FTV. Model - ALA30R. Hope this info helps.
  14. Forgot to add. I had my DMF renewed a month ago. app 60deg play in it. at 91,000 miles. . . Not cheap either!
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