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    celica st gen6

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  1. 1999 gen 6 1.8 st. Remote central locking unlocks but won't lock. Anyone got a circuit diagram or know of a manual. I have the usual downloaded manuals but the remote locking isn't in any of them. The central locking is fine using the key in the lock. It's just the remote that is playing up but only for lock, not unlock. Strangely at the same time the radio has started draining the battery. It is the original Toyota radio/cassette with 6cd changer in the boot. If I take the radio (20 amp) fuse out, the battery drain stops. Anyone had this before. All suggestions welcom.
  2. 1.1/2 tons will be fine BUT.. They won't go up very high and the base area will be small so less stable. The 2 and 3 ton stands usually go higher and the base is wider so feels more stable.
  3. If you jack it up and take off the wheels, then pull out the pads you will be able to feel if the handbrake shoes are dragging or not. The shoes are inside the fat bit of the disc
  4. Over the years I have learnt from experience to only fit one item at a time and check engine after each change. (not plugs of course). This is because I have often serviced cars and found that a new plug, dizzy cap or rotor arm are faulty.
  5. " maybe its just got air compressed in one of the chambers i'll make sure all the match markers line up on re-assembly" Surely you took the plugs out first.
  6. Could be a bad connection to a bulb or two odd bulbs as the system compares two bulbs. So if someone fitted one 5W and one 6W bulb it can bring on the light.
  7. Disconnect battery and wait at least 5 minutes before touching any wire. Fit new wheel/airbag, connect battery. Never touch air bag wiring with battery connected.
  8. cheers only trouble is wiring diagram is too small and cant read it, tried zooming in but just blurred, even tried connecting laptop to tv and still cant make out the colours of wires which is wot i need most of all Did yours have radio/amp combined...If so try these colours lilac/yellow...live Grey...ignition live Black/red .....elec ariel purple/lilac....ariel amp white/black....earth Purple....front left sp+ violet.....front left sp - light green...front right sp + Lilac.......front right sp - Black....rear left sp + yellow....rear left sp - red.....rear right sp + white.....rear right sp - Hope this helps
  9. I would change the flexible hoses to both calipers.
  10. Hmmmm well I will try the piston greasing method in the hopes that it should free up the problem as money is a rather big issue at the moment and I'd really rather not get new callipers and hoses. During next week I'll hopefully be able to borrow a neighbourghs garage to work in so that should make things easier. Do you know a website that does sells callipers/hoses for the Gen 7 2003? Just incase I do have to replace them it would be good to get a rough idea of pricing. If one of the callipers is to be replaced it will most likely be the right because of it's reluctance to move after a while. I was doing a little search today and saw someone had a braking issue with their 2003 Celica that was being discussed on the honest John website and they had judder. There was mentionings of the bearings? Where are they? They might be worth a quick check as well as there was a little from when the right disc was burning. I will take pictures of the piston's so you can tell me what you think as I really don't know what is deemed as fit for service. Martin > Thanks for the explanation of the inbalance it would make sense as the right was the one getting hot and is indeed sticking a bit. I have seen a number of cars where the brake hoses have deteriorated inside and act like one way valves. When you press the pedal the fluid is forced through and pushes the piston but when you stop pushing the hose prevents the fluid moving so the piston won't come off. I've seen this cause the fluid to boil and the brakes to fail. Also I heve seen accidents where one caliper is sticking, when the car brakes in an emergency the good caliper grabs and throws the car to one side. What anyone chooses to do with brakes is up to them, just remember you only live once.
  11. Have a look for the thread with the link to online manuals. They will help.
  12. Here are the previously mentioned pictures taken after the brakes were seized and bled: - This is a close up of the left calliper. The right is the same way. The piston to the left is pressing against the 2 anti-squeel plates pressing against the pad then the disc. - This is the clip that I mentioned transferring to each of the pads, they were fiddely to get off and back on again so I wondered if they were one of those 'Once only' parts you replace. They seem to be making it harder for the pads to glide so I will try removing them. Do they hold an important relevance? - A more whole view of the left calliper. - A close-up of the left calliper pads against the disc. - My new and now not so new or shiney right disc with calliper - A full view of the right calliper and the pads/disc. - A full view of the left calliper and the pads/disc. I have not got new callipers though I did try and give them a clean. The piston goes back ok when I use an old pad and the G-clamp to press it back in. It goes right back into the calliper and easily fits back over the pads and onto the carrier. It is just after I have applied the brakes they seem to be all stuck again. Ah so it is just like bleeding a motorcycle's brakes, you just can't reach the pedal hehe. I don't have any Dot 3 brake fluid so I'll grab a neighbour to help. A mechanic, yay! Are you a general mechanic or a Toyota specific mechanic? I was interested in mechanics but never took it as a course. Yet another thing I should probably mention, before I realised I needed to change the brakes they told me by (Though I didn't realise for a while until whirring noises were heard) covering my right front wheel with burned off black carbon dust. I kept wondering why this was happening as the roads weren't that mucky and it was only that one wheel. Anyway I found that at 70mph ish it would judder and make the whirring noise. After I got home I placed my gloved hand near the wheel and could feel the heat oozing from the whole wheel. Touching the alloy melted part of the glove. I wondered if this may have damaged something or perhaps caused the brake fluid to boil and damage something internally that is not visible causing this problem I have. I am still to do the rear pads and discs but wanted to sort the front first so I had a slight back-up if they went wrong. As far as I can see the rear ones are opperating ok and aren't getting hot. Haha I'm sure that is everything covered now. You have a faulty caliper which needs replacing. If you drive it like this it will get so hot that is boils the brake fluid and your brakes will fail. I would get both calipers and both flexible brake hoses replaced to be on the safe side. The MOT comment about inbalance was telling you that one caliper wasn't working properly. The test compares the force of the two front brakes. If they are too different the car will be dangerous under heavy braking.
  13. Don't know how you would check on the history of the new engine - but there is no harm in letting DVLA know that the eng number has changed. If the cops ever stop you and want to check your car thoroughly, DVLA can reveal your chassis and eng numbers to them. Obviously if the eng number doesn't match their records, they may start asking questions ... You can tell DVLA if you want but they don't really care. It was decided sometime ago that recording engine changes was pointless as too many get changed.
  14. It's just rust on the discs. I bet it's worse when the car has stood for a couple of days with the handbrake on and worse when wet and better when dry. Anti squeal shims are to stop noise on braking that is a loud shriek not a rubbing noise. It's common on many disc brake cars.
  15. Disconnect the wiring at the abs pump and then replace the fuse. If the fuse blows you know the fault is in the wires not the pump.
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