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Everything posted by marama32

  1. Before assuming it is a wheel bearing, have your wheels & tyres balanced. I had what I thought was a wheel bearing gone, being very noisy. My mechanic also believed it was the passanger front wheel bearing gone. I decided to replace both bearings. So I bought both off Ebay. Then we had a lot of snow early last year & I decided to change my all weather tyres to winter tyres. Got the tyres, took them to get fitted & was shown I had a slightly buckled alloy from pothole damage on the front nearside wheel. The tyres were fitted & balanced. I drove away & there was no noise at all. I drove it for another 3 weeks with no noise in town driving. Once the snow had gone, I took it for a run & there was no bearing like noise. It had been the in balance in the wheel that caused the noise. I still have not had to replace the bearings.
  2. Hi, It could be as simple as your exhaust heat shield vibrating. I had this problem & once the heatshield was removed, the noise went with it. Marv
  3. Hi, It's so simple, you won't believe me. If you look at the top corner where the main light unit meets the indicator unit, there is a space or hole if you like. insert a screwdriver & press down on the plastic clip, but not too hard. As you do that pull out the indicator unit & it will easily come out. remove the lead & there you go. Reverse it to put it back in. Personally you can buy a new replacement off Ebay for £12. I just fitted one to a friends car & it fitted 100%. Link below http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-AVENSIS-00-03-FRONT-INDICATOR-CLEAR-BRAND-NEW-/150513737208?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item230b515df8 Cheers, Marv
  4. Hi Rob, There are a few available on Ebay. Below is a link to one of them http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-AVENSIS-OWNERS-MANUAL-HANDBOOK-1997-2003-/160488244332?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item255dd8446c Regards, Marv
  5. Hi, If you find this does not work for you, please advise & I can give you the procedure that worked for me. The above never worked, as I'm sure the procedure above is for cars up to 2000 only. Cheers, Marv
  6. I think they will fit. I was going to fit 18" 225 / 40 off my Alfa 156, but I would have needed to fit 10mm spacers, which I felt was sticking out too far, so stayed with the originals. So the worst case scenario is you would need to fit 5mm spacers, which are available off Ebay for about £20 for the 4. You will know when you fit the first wheel. Feel for the gap on the suspension arm & if it is 6mm+, then you will be ok. I had a VW Passat which I fitted 19" Oxigin 1 alloys with 235 / 35 Continental Sport Contact 2 tyres . The gap only had 4mm clearance & kept rubbing. So added 5mm spacers & everything was ok & they made the car look fantastic. With that size of wheel/tyre combo, they were bordering on being illegal due to the amount of rubber sticking out slightly past the arches. Marv
  7. Hi, Use the link below to work out the size required for your tyres. Enter the standard size on the left & then change the sizes till the new tyre sizes match or are less than 1% out. As to make of tyre, I stick with Continental & usually go with sport contact type. Link below: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Cheers, Marv
  8. Hi, 1, I would suggest having your aircon purged, cleaned & topped up at the likes of Kwik fit etc. for about £40. 2, The Above. Do you have good airflow coming from all vents in all positions? IF you don't check your pollen filter it could be blocked, chocked and or needing replaced. My car does steam up if I use re circulation button, so I don't use it in Winter or cold periods, but not a problem in the summer etc. 3, I don't know of a drain on the Avensis system, but it may be there. Hopefully someone else can advise. Cheers, Marv
  9. Hi, Sounds like a fault with the battery. If you get it going with a jump start, it has to be the battery. Whether it is a bad battery, bad connection or not getting charged enough with lights on, heater at full etc. you will need to discover. Cheers, Marv
  10. I agree, sounds like a battery issue, whether duff or a loose connection etc, hopefully the RAC has solved it now. Please post so we know. Hopefully you were not needing it to go watch the rugby tonight??? Cheers, Marv
  11. Hi, Have you changed the battery in the key fob recently? Do you have 1 key or 2? If 2, try the second key, as this was a problem with a friends Avensis, as the transponder needed re-programming. When he tried to get it to start it would just turn over, but appeared no fuel was getting through. After being in the garage, he was asked for his second key, he gave it to them & it started first time. There are plenty of posts with the procedure if you have 2 keys & the other key starts your car. It may not be this, but the simple things are often over looked. Marv
  12. marama32


    Hi, Try taking out the pollen filter & see if the air flow & temperature is ok. It may have nothing to do with the filter, but try it to eliminate it. Cheers, Marv
  13. Hi, I have always used Fully synthetic in all the cars I have had over the past 14 years. Fully synthetic oil does not burn the same as multigrade or semi-synthetic. But one of it's main advantages is it takes much higher temperatures before it breaks down. Which is always an advantage in an oil burner. t-spiritpete is correct again, with the spec of oil. Marv
  14. Hi, Your key fobs could need to be re-programmed. What model year is your D-4D? Marv
  15. Hi, I would suggest checking the sat nav unit & make sure there is a disc in the unit, or the unit has been taken out or disconnected. Marv
  16. Hi, The Trip computer is based on averages. Next time you refill your tank, reset all the Trip settings & you will find it's pretty close. When I first got mine, it said I would get over 600 miles to the tank, I managed 430. I read the manual & reset all to zero after filling up. Now when I drive the car in town, it is reasonably accurate. The tank warning light comes on & the readout says the mileage to go is always about 30 miles. On the open road it advises it's about 44-50 miles to go. I have never taken the chence to actually check how close it would be. Marv
  17. Hi, It depends on the model age of your vehicle. I assume yours is the 2001-2003 model? Programming of the key is different for the 1997-2000 model, 2001-2003 model etc. It also depends on whether you have a secondary key to base the programming on & it needs to be a black key. It can't be done if your second key is a grey key. If you only have one key, the one you use, you won't be able to programme the fob yourself. Advise what year your model is from & I can give you the procedure. You could also try sitting in your car, take out the battery, re-insert it & try it a few times. The avensis has a rolling code system, to stop the frequency being scanned and then used to enter the vehicle by thieves. It means your remote & car change the frequency every time it is locked/opened. Changing the battery, can put the fob out of sync with the car. Marv
  18. The screen is the one used for the radio, cd etc. It is a basic system that shows arrows for direction & the road you need to use. These were the standard type 8 years ago. As I said it is not very good, by todays standards. Marv
  19. Hi, Forget about the sat nav. It is not very good. If you got it going, it would be 8 years out of date. To update it to the current version would cost you about £130 for the latest dvd. It would be located in the boot on the passenger side on the side panel just beside the light cluster & would look like a cd changer in a fabric cover. On your car it would be the TNS 200 system. Buy a TomTom instead & a Brodit car clip Holder for it, which will seat on the left of the volume control & works really well & can be fitted in 10minutes. It is more accurate & is a lot cheaper to update by about £100. YOu can pick up a recon TomTom with 1year warranty for between £60 & £110 from total PDA & the Brodit systems from DSL Developments from £20 to £60 IF you want to see the Brodit clip system go to DSL's site & do a search for avensis & look at the 5th item (you can select the position of the clip from the bottom of the console in the image to the top) . then do a search for a specific tomtom model & you will see what the options are Marv
  20. Hi, I have replaced mine recently & had no problems. But I have heard that some do have issues. I replaced mine within 20 seconds. I don't know, but it may be like a sky remote. With that you have 5 minutes to replace the batteries or the remote needs to be reprogrammed for your tv to work with the sky remote. Marv
  21. Hi John, At the end of the day, an Oxygen sensor is an Oxygen sensor. This is a universal fit, so should be ok. As to the fitting I'm not sure, but I have a haynes manual kicking around. Send me a personal message with you e-mail address & when I find it & it's in the manual, I'll scan it & send it as a pdf attachment for you. Cheers, Marv
  22. Hi John, OCDB sockets were standard on cars from 1996, so you should have one. I've never needed to touch mine, but I think it is in with the fuses behind the pull out tray under the steering wheel. Marv
  23. Dave, That's where it came in, in my case. I covered all the Nuts & every point where it was possible for water to get in. All around the plate & every possible entry point. I used several disposable gloves & I put the silicone in my gloved hand & smeared it over everything. It does not look pretty, but it is covered by the trim & is effective. It won't really affect the shocker being changed either. Thinking just now, it maybe as simple to solve as tightening the nuts first. incase they are slightly slack. Before going to the extent I did. Please post your outcome. Cheers, Marv
  24. Hi, I just posted on this, see link below. http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...mp;#entry964490 Cheers, Marv
  25. Hi Dave, I would think it is coming in from the same place, but don't know where it is. I would remove the boot linings & check to see where the water is coming in from. In my case it was coming in from the Passengers side shock absorber where it seats & is secured in to the car. I drilled 3 off 8 mm holes in the spare tyre well & put in 3 flush grommets to help with rust. I also drilled 2 off 6mm holes in the bottom of the boot passengers side behind the wall (fabric/board covering). I sealed all the nuts & plate at the top of the shock absorber with sealant. Do not use a Low Modular silicone as it will give you a sore head & you'll feel nautious for about a week or so( I did, before removing it). I used Stikall which is a silicon/adhesive & worked a treat. You might not have the same problem though. I never had any water in the passenger footwell. Cheers, Marv
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