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Everything posted by Heidfirst

  1. It probably can be repaired but you need to find one of the very few companies that can do proper, vulcanised repairs (these are often companies that mostly deal with commercial tyres which can run into the thousands of pounds so are repaired if at all possible). & you need to have a spare for whilst it is in being repaired (big, expensive to run oven so they often build up a large batch rather than doing small nos.).
  2. as an example https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/3f5bfeb0-ff14-4ba7-b1dc-2363afa00b81/Yaris-429B_Stand_alone_bike_holder_wiring_kit_PW5D0_0D562_AIM_003_977_1.pdf but there will be other solutions too
  3. https://www.fudzilla.com/news/pc-hardware/49071-raspberry-pi-4-needs-a-fan
  4. well, it seems that they didn't design according to the USB-C specifications. https://hackaday.com/2019/07/16/exploring-the-raspberry-pi-4-usb-c-issue-in-depth/
  5. The total European demand for RAV4s for the last 3 years has been ~ 70,000 units per annum, in 2018 they sold ~7,000 in the UK. They will have based their plans for stock etc. on that. However, a larger than expected increase in sales in total or in uptake of an option can throw plans out of the window ... To give you anotherr comparison last year Toyota sold over 400,000 RAV 4s in the USA alone although these come from a plant in Canada whereas ours come from Japan.
  6. fairly sure that these have been out for a while (at least a year) but they always have a statement, as here, something along the lines of "It is your own responsibility to ensure that the use of the LED retrofit lights complies with applicable local legal requirements." They are listed on the Philips UK site too e.g. https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/11972ULWX2/ultinon-led-car-headlight-bulb/specifications "
  7. as far as I can see from the US Toyota website in the new Corolla there is no (or at least not yet) XRS grade. What I could see them possibly doing at some point is a Corolla GR Sport as they have done with the Yaris.
  8. Given that we have shown errors/inconsistencies from readily available resources I might be forced to go looking & see if I have an Avensis brochure still for reliable figures ... Fairly sure that the estate has always been slightly slower than the saloon in the published acceleration figures though. What I can say with confidence having had a 2007 2.2 T25 estate, a 2012 2.2 estate & now a 2017 1.8 estate the 2.2. is definitely quicker to accelerate & does so in a less frenetic way. There is no point in going past 4,000 revs in the 2.2 turbodiesel whereas for the 1.8 Valvematic if you want max performance you really need to get up to the likes of 5,500.
  9. As far as I can see Parkers don't list an acceleration time for a 2.2 Icon Bus Ed. TS manual or auto. They also list 0-60 times rather than 0-62. They do list 0-60 for my car as 9.1s (rather than HJ's 10.4s) & they list a 2.2 manual Icon TS @8.9s for 0-60 https://www.parkers.co.uk/toyota/avensis/tourer-2009/22-d-4d-icon-5d/specs/
  10. That entry is wrong then or you are looking at the auto (I don't think that you could buy an Icon Bus Ed 2.2 manual). It happens, they give the 0-62 for my manual 2015 Bus. Ed tourer as 10.4 - the same as the CVT version - when it should be ~9.7s. The 0-60 time for the 2.2 150bhp manual tourer is 9.2s (8.9s for the saloon). The 150 auto is 9.5s for the saloon & 9.8s for the tourer.
  11. don't think that I would go with the HDD version as iirc only Toyota dealers can udate the satnav maps whereas all the others with removable media or updated via USB memory stick can be done by the user.
  12. enjoy! It's a bit galling though to see the things that you can spec. that we aren't offered in the UK (HUD, Adaptive Suspension)
  13. I have had both the 2.2 Diesel (150bhp) & now the 1.8 petrol, both manual. The 2.2 is definitely quicker to accelerate (I don't know where you got your 9.5 figure from, iirc it is sub 9.0s for the 2.2 150 & the 180 was something like 8.5s).
  14. They are still updating the older TNS systems from the 00s (e.g. TNS700) with current data so I imagine that they still are for a 2011.
  15. there is very little torque low down. & the max. power is way up the rev range where most will never go ... (& imo the clutch on these doesn't help). You will notice this particularly if coming from a turbo-diesel where there is a lot of torque fairly low down & which don't rev. to the same heights as petrols.
  16. Heidfirst

    Sat nav

    you could try asking multimedia@toyota.co.uk or consult your dealer. I imagine that if the nav module has failed & the head unit can't "see" it then the head unit would act as if not installed You could also source another satnav module from a breaker, ebay etc. but it might not be worth the cost as it's a 7+ year old system ...
  17. There are no equivalents to RDS-TA announcements or TMC on DAB in the UK. Neither Touch or Touch 2 have RDS-TAs cut in on DAB & apparently from you the MM17 version doesn't either (so that's basically for 7 years +), the Aygo does because it comes from a different oem (Pioneer) & I am fairly certain because that is one of PSA's areas of responsibility for the Aygo/108/C1 rather than Toyota. If you have "with Go" (as you apparently do) you can get Tomtom traffic by internet by linking via your phone which I find better than the broadcast TAs. Don't know if Touch 2 on it's own can get that.
  18. Heidfirst

    Sat nav

    Hi Benjamin, welcome to TOC 🙂 Presumably this is Touch & Go? This is a modular system where the nav is a separate module to the head unit. The first thing that I would check is connections between the nav module & the head unit. It's also possible (although not normal) I suppose that the nav module has failed after 7 years. Don't suppose that you have an extended warranty? Normally you would update the nav module from the USB port but if the head unit can't "see" the nav unit ...
  19. it could actually be dust from surface corrosion being cleaned off the rear discs rather than off the pads, particularly if the car sits on the street & unused for any length of time. Because the rears do so little of the braking corrosion can build up more on them than the fronts. I never had any problems with the oem pads on my 2012 T27 & so far none either on my 2017. I don't find brake dust hard to get off the wheels either (but I do use 1 of these www.evanscycles.com/muc-off-wheel-component-brush-EV148117? & https://www.amazon.co.uk/Turtle-Wax-52811-Redline-Restorer/dp/B01B4Y8HQ4 or similar). On my T25 where I wasn't happy with the oem braking system I upgraded to Ferodo Premier pads & MTEC grooved discs.
  20. 235/50/18 would be very close in terms of rolling radius. The inner rim would be 12.7mm further in & the outer 12.7mm further out unless you are going to go for a different offset. https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=235&aspect=60&diameter=16&wheelwidth=6.5&offset=45&width2=235&aspect2=50&wheel_size=18&wheel_width=7-5&offset2=45 225/50/18 would be another close option in terms of RR.
  21. which engine/trim are you thinking of? I had a 2012 2.2. T Spirit & now have a 2017 1.8