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About RedAE102

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  • Toyota Model
    1993 AE102 Corolla 1.8 Saloon
  1. No, you don't. It will fit nearly flush all around, no place for a fascia. Every modern stereo I've dealt with has the M5x8 screw holes in the side that nearly every Toyota uses for radio mounting.
  2. They are alsothe same as AE102 GXi, AE111 G6R, and ZZE112 SR (if I'm even remembering them correctly as actually having rear disc brakes!) calipers as well, just with different brackets to accomodate the larger 266mm discs. Pads were the same as well.
  3. I'm posting this for sale on behalf of a friend of mine who also has a 93/K Corolla. This could be invaluable for any of you with an E10 or E11 with the super strut suspension. AE101/AE111 Super Strut Suspension TRD Stablizer Bar w/ endlinks and bushings I have for sale a rare and expensive TRD stablizer bar for the AE101/111 chassis Corolla's equipped with Super Strut Suspension. According to the TRD Japan website, the bar is 28mm in diameter and is 85% stiffer than the original Super Strut front stabilizer, which means better handling and even more gobs of grip from the superior suspension. Cost from TRD is approx $250, not including the extra endlinks I'm including, which probably run for about 50+quid from toyota direct. The bushings are also TRD super hard rubber bushings, not to be mixed up with the OEM Toyota ones that crack and flex. Anyways, the bar is in excellent condition, has some scratches and paint missing but is purely cosmetic, it's not actually rusty and could be cleaned up quite easily if you wanted to sand it and respray it again. And finally, the price for people in the UK is $180USD INCLUDING postage via FedEX Internation Priority (24-48 hours) and the Paypal fee. This comes out to only about 105quid, so its not a bad price at all. I take payment thru Paypal (just pay in USD and it'll bill your credit card/bank account in GBP). And no duty taxes should be charged to you upon arrival as long as I keep the price low on the customs invoice. To credit my trustworthyness, I leave you Ebay feedback: I've never had a problem and have sold many items overseas, so buy with confidence! Pictures:
  4. Some do come with shims, some don't. If they don't, you just reuse the ones that are already on the car.
  5. The Si dials are the the same, just in white. I swapped a set of Si dials in my car, though what I'd really like is a set of GXi dials... problem is that to my knowledge, Toyota never made the graphite-coloured dials in a LHD format (I'm running a LHD German Si instrument cluster with the 150 mph speedometer from the UK... warning lights are a bit buggered, but oh well... minor details).
  6. I *really* wish I could say I had experience with the Carina E in particular, but sadly I can't. If I could afford to get one over here, a GTi saloon would be the ultimate for me (there are newer cars I'd like more, but the Carina E GTi holds a special place in my heart lol). Aside from that unabashed drooling... my past experiences with some of our other Toyotas tells me that the bulb is likely a W1.2W, #74, or W2.3W, and wouldn't be too difficult an undertaking. Every Toyota dash I've encountered has had an outer trim panel or two that simply pulls off (held in with simple clips), revealing all the screws you need to remove to get what you need. Toyota may have their serviceability shortcomings under the hood, but I can definitely say that they have some of the most logically assembled interiors around. I would highly suggest getting the Haynes manual for your car (I'm told Halford's carries them, as that's where my friend got the one for his Corolla), as it will have valuable insight about the specifics of the Carina E.
  7. Actually, they don't do a VVT-i 4A-FE anywhere, or any VVT-i A-series engine for that matter (the VVT on the 20-valve 4A-GEs is not the same thing either). The 1.6 VVT-i is a 3ZZ-FE. 1.8 VVT-i is a 1ZZ-FE, 1.4 VVT-i is a 4ZZ-FE, and the 1.8 VVTL-i is a 2ZZ-GE.
  8. Anytime the idle speed and load changes, I feel differences in pedal pressure in my (much older) 1.8... Same goes for nearly every petrol vehicle we have... It's most pronounced when the air conditioner kicks on and the idle speed is raised to compensate, then when it kicks off the pedal sinks a little bit. I've even noticed slight changes from just the radiator fan turning on and off, or turning lights on and off (defogger and taillights both cause the engine to idle up). The reason is there's slightly more available vacuum when the engine has less load and idles lower (my mum's LS400 does just 400 rpm in gear with the air conditioner off, 800 with it on).
  9. No, they will not... the rotors for the E12s are thicker than the E10/E11s (and have slightly different hub diameters IIRC).
  10. Yes, switch to full synthetic. Don't even give it a second thought!
  11. The E11 rear disc brakes were exactly the same design as the E10, which includes Levins/Truenos and the like, as well as AE102 GXi models. All of them will swap with ease. The set on my AE102 came off an AE101 Levin, while my friend used an identical set from an AE111 Trueno on his AE102.
  12. RedAE102

    Corolla Sr

    3ZZ-FE... 109 bhp @ 6000 rpm, 111 lb-ft @ 3800 rpm. The ZZ engines are a considerably more efficient design than the now 13 year-old Gen-II 4A/7A designs.
  13. My first thought is possibly a bad steering computer... I'm pretty sure your car has the variable power assisted steering (assist decreases with engine speed or vehicle speed... not sure which it is on the Corolla).
  14. It may be a long shot, since I don't even know whether you have one, but the cable that operates the boot from the driver's seat (again, does it even do that) may be the problem.... One of the Camries that my mom drove had that problem... a clip for the cable had come loose and rattled like you wouldn't believe.
  15. I would like to add a bit to this discussion, as I think it is wholly relevant. A friend of mine drives a 2001 Corolla ZZE110 with the 1.8-litre VVT-i 1ZZ-FE (the 3ZZ and 4ZZ are basically the 1ZZ with a shorter stroke, much like the difference between 4A and 7A engines). With only 65,000 miles, his engine was making oil disappear at an alarming rate. He bought the car with only 24,000 miles, and it had a full service history. He did his own oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals using only Mobil 1 full synthetic, and religiously checked the oil level, never letting it get more than halfway down between the full and low marks on the dipstick. He had problems with pinging for a while (when it was still under warranty), and 5 different Toyota dealers assured him it was normal. Going to RON 96 petrol made it better, but not completely. Not long ago, it turned into a full blown metallic knock, which finally prompted him to buy a used 1ZZ from a junkyard with 60,000 miles on it. 3 weeks ago, I helped him swap out the engines. He took the old motor apart, and discovered what the problem was: THREE spun rod bearings with one well on its way due to insufficient oiling. The worst part of it is that his is not the first one out there to do this. The fact that we're hearing about problems with the 3ZZ and 4ZZ as well as the 1ZZ leads me to believe that there may be a problem in the engine design itself. Now I'm really sorry to cut off here, but I have to go get ready for work.