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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by PhilGee

  1. Yeah, but not enough! One day it will be mine
  2. I was lucky enough to take our demo home for the night after it was thought that us technicians never get to take new models home. Took the missus and my 4 year old son out. Safe to say they enjoyed it. Not as much as me though. Ended up putting more fuel in and spending most of the night driving round in it. My wife thought i'd crashed or something i was out that long. Hand on heart i would buy one with my own money. Yeah, could be quicker/more power but in real day to day driving theres plenty of power and the drive/handling is just awesome. I just need a pay rise now
  3. I thought they all came with the torque sensing diffs? I've never come across one that states its got a "special" LSD. The brochure doesnt seem to list as an option either. You sure they don't all come with the same type of diffs? VSC is an optional item though.
  4. Sure that the headlights have been modified. The old bulb holders were plastic and used to melt/crack causing the bulb to sit in the wrong position causing a poor beam pattern. the new ones had a metal bulb holder to prevent this from happening. Might be worth checking out.
  5. Possible clutch judder? Do you feel it revving the engine at all or is it only when releasing the clutch to set off?
  6. Can you hear it when just revving the engine at standstill or only when you are driving?
  7. Seen lots of non genuine/cheaper sensors cause faults. Was it the type where you have to cut off the old sensor connector and connect to the new sensor by any chance? These are normally the ones that cause the probs i've found. End up fitting gen parts or at least a proper sensor from a good manufacturer to cure.
  8. Normally the higher pressure is for when you have a heavier load to carry. Never seen this ECO pressure before? Where is it located? May explain more in the owners manual.
  9. PhilGee

    Tyre Query

    Did they not inform you before they fitted it? Should have really given you the option.
  10. Your MAP readings could be right. Just because the reading isnt what it should be doesnt mean the sensor is at fault. Sounds as though your dealer are on the case anyways.
  11. As above, oxygen sensors and catalyst efficiency faults are quite common. Really need a diagnostic machine to read fault code and go from there.
  12. Sounds like the backing plate behind the disc is catching. You may have to remove the disc to see if its this. Check for any signs of rubbing/catching on the disc or backing plate.
  13. Probably the cat on its way out. The engine management system is quite sensitive so if any of the running parameters get close to the upper or lower limits then you'll know about it. Even doing an emmissions test probably wont pick anything up. Best bet is clear the codes and see if it returns.
  14. I think the figures stated in the owners manual state roughly 1 litre per 600 miles if i remember rightly. Alot, i know but going off your figues of 6000 miles and oil is halfway down dipstick, i'm guessing between min and max, then its used no more than a litre i'd say. As for the Knock sensor, that price seems a little steep. How much was the part? There's a possibility its been damaged when changed over to new engine. Could you get one from a breakers and try that?
  15. PhilGee


    1zz-fe is a 1.8 petrol engine. These are the most common of the petrol engines. Either way, all the later petrol vvti engines are timing chains which do not have a schedule for changing them so fear not!
  16. Possibly in the fuse box behind glovebox listed as hazard warning lights. Do you have an owners manual to look at?
  17. Advise getting a wheel alignment check done. This should include any adjustments needed to get it within spec.
  18. You noticed any other faults on your car? If you put the interior light on and try it do you notice if the light dims in sync with the blower motor speed?
  19. Bank 2 monitors cylinders 2 and 3 so just look at which exhaust ports join together just before the oxy sensor. Pretty sure its the top left sensor. Seen all sorts of problems with non gen sensors getting fitted. If you are unsure of which sensor, connect the diagnostic machine, look at the live data readings, if it has this function, of the oxy sensors, disconnect the suspect sensor and check the reading on the live data. If the data readings stop registering then you know you've got the right sensor disconnected. Of all the heater circuit faults i've done, its always the sensor at fault. Fitted gen parts and never had a come back.
  20. 21mm wheel nuts. Same as most toyota's.
  21. As above, probably "Diesel Knock" you are experiencing. They inject a liitle too much fuel when cold in order to get the engine up to running temp quicker. Try using a quality fuel and see if it helps.
  22. EGR faults are normally more common on the later diesel engines. Alot easier to get to and clean! Alot of the performance issues caused on this engine that i've come across have been the Suction Control Valves. If you get a diagnostic machine that reads live data then you may be able to read the fuel pressure readings. If this reading drops when you get the lack of power then theres a good chance its the SCV's sticking. From what i've found you can test the valves and the readings are normally in spec but its when they are operating the moving parts actually stick, causing the drop in fuel pressure. Hope this helps.
  23. I know its probably been cleared up now but just to let you know that we only put in 0w20 as stated in the gen3 prius. I know it states you can use several grades of oil but 0w20 is the optimal oil listed.
  24. If you dont feel its right then get it back into the dealer and make a point of demonstrating whats happening so they can see your issues. Let us know how you get on.
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